Endless beaches that feature silky sand beaches, shimmering bays, secret coves, and dramatic clifftops. Glorious countryside peppered with welcoming inns and crisscrossed by hiking paths and cycling routes. Fishing, horse riding, water sports and fabulous golf courses. National parks, gorgeous gardens, and historic marshlands. The Pas-de-Calais region is perfect for fans of nature and lovers of the great outdoors and the ideal place to unwind, re-energise, reinvigorate…

Nirvana for nature lovers

Pas-de-Calais is a land of wide-open countryside, uncrowded roads, colourful hillsides, speckled with wildflowers, and a mosaic of fields which run down to the Opal Coast where jagged clifftops overlook beaches where seals relax and frolic in the mineral-rich seawater.

Caps et Marais d’Opale Regional Nature Park

Around 40 minutes by car from Calais lies the market town of Saint-Omer. Well worth a visit for its soaring Cathedral, a Gothic masterpiece full of art including a painting by Rubens, and a vast wooden door which marks the entry of King Louis XIV. It’s a cobble-streeted town of many charms and a fabulous Saturday morning market. It is also home to one of the natural wonders of France – the Audomarois, historic marshlands, part of the Caps et Marais d’Opale Regional Nature Park.

Spread over 22,300 hectares, watered by 700km of canals and home to an abundance of animal species including rare and endangered birds and insects, and hundreds of wildflowers and fauna, the area is a UNESCO listed biosphere reserve.

Monks and Mariners

Uncover the ancient history of the marshes of Saint Omer at the Maison du Marais interpretive centre. Monks in the 7^th century carved channels into the rich, peaty soil of the marshlands so that the land could be cultivated, and there’s still a thriving market garden in this horticultural wonderland. You can tour the marshes by boat (O’Marais by Isnor) and spot a wealth of waterfowl and other wild creatures. This area served as a near-impregnable hideaway for the wartime French Resistance and is the only place in France where the post is delivered by boat! And it’s here that you can visit the workshops of the last traditional wooden boat makers of the marshes

Follow all or part of the 120km long walking route of the Audomarois which takes in the marshlands as well as the forest of Eperlecques, the valley of Aa, the countryside and Arques where there is a famous glass factory. Or relax and hire a boat, float along the peaceful canals, admire the vegetable gardens and stop off for a local feast at La Baguernette – where they serve the best, sweetest, beer tart. Ever.

Two steps from Saint-Omer, the Romelaëre Nature Reserve is a small corner of paradise where you can discover 3 trails, in the heart of a preserved nature, where boarded walkways take you through lily ponds and lakes.

The Opal Coast

The Caps et Marais d’Opale Regional Nature Park also takes in the Opal Coast. A Regional Nature Park is different from a National Park, as the area is inhabited, and it’s aims are to showcase natural, cultural, and human heritage and convert them into tangible factors in the sustainable development of the local area. Along the Opal Coast the area includes the Deux Caps, cliffs known as Blanc-Nez and Gris-Nez (White Nose and Grey Nose) which have Grand Site de France status and jut out over the English Channel opposite their cousin the White Cliffs of Dover which you can clearly spot on a clear day. Below these two cliffs lie 10km of sandy beach, and along the top a coastal path offers jaw-dropping views over the sea and countryside.

Visit the Maison du Site des Deux-Caps where you can hire bikes and discover the history and heritage of the area, the culture, and traditions. You can leave your luggage in lockers here, pick up maps for the area and saddle up for a 118km loop of the route of the Velomaritime which runs along the coast all the way from Dunkirk to Roscoff.

Or take your time and meander the coastal paths of the GR120 alongside dunes and sandy beaches, or head inland to discover unspoiled countryside criss-crossed by a network of thousands of miles of maintained and sign posted trails and traffic free roads.

Seals and seaside delights

At the seaside resort of Berck-sur-Mer, head down to the water’s edge on the south side of the beach on the Baie d’Authie, to see a huge colony of more than 100 wild seals splashing about in the water, lazing about on the sandbanks, and calling out to each other.

Cosy up under a blanket on the hills of the Deux Caps, the Two Cliffs, which overlook the White Cliffs of Dover and enjoy a picnic. Nothing says France more than a baguette with a chunk of cheese or some tasty charcuterie with a glass of wine – or a flask of coffee.

Take in the coastal scenery that inspired the great painter JM Turner and see where Charles Dickens lived in Hardelot where you can visit a castle, Elizabethan-style theatre, and gorgeous gardens. Follow the ‘Painter’s Path’ at Wissant or the ‘Fisherman’s Trail’ at Audresselles. Head to Le Touquet Paris-Plage, where little has changed since the heady days of the early 19^th century, when this little resort was the place to go for the jet setters of the world. Climb the great dunes of Slack, ride an e-bike along the coastal roads and suck in the invigorating sea air. Stop off for some heavenly grub – a fishy dish at a traditional fishermen’s café, a rich and robust stew at a Flemish Inn, or a local beer.

Explore the countryside

Explore the steadily expanding network of Voies Vertes cycling trails criss-crossing Pas-de-Calais’s countryside. Take it easy pootling along Béthune and Aire-sur-la-Lys’s gentle canal towpaths; or combine nature and history on the Véloroute 32 Remembrance Trail, which winds its way past key memorial sites, war cemeteries, monuments, and museums from Arras to the city of Amiens in the neighbouring Somme department.

Wherever you’re headed, keep your eyes peeled for the Accueil Vélo© signs flagging up bike-friendly accommodation and restaurants, charging points and rental and repair shops.

For somewhere a bit different, Lens’ UNESCO listed slag heaps, left behind after the demise of the mining industry are now a haven of nature. You walk, cycle, explore nature and inspect the vines – yes vines are growing on these inky rockscapes, and even ski! Perched 129m atop one of Noeux-les-Mines’ slag, it may not rival the Alps’ powdery pistes, but it is the only run in Europe open year-round.

Fresh air and forests

Meanwhile forest fans will enjoy the wooded wonders of Pas-de-Calais from the immense forest of Desvres where ash trees, oaks, beeches, and hornbeams thrive (and legend has is that the Romans planted the garlic that carpets the forest floor), to the Rihoult forest in Clairmarais, Saint Omer where with luck you’ll spot the deer and herons who drink from the ponds. The national forest of Guînes is an Instagrammer’s joy with its colourful flowerbeds dotted with chestnut trees make it perfect for beautiful photos, as is the great forest of Hesdin which is at its best in autumn – full of vibrant jewel-like colour.

In the wooded hills behind Calais and Boulogne, tinkling brooks course through the picturesque Seven Valleys, a rural idyll where cows graze in lush meadows and are driven down the narrow lanes to the milking parlour while roses seem to grow around every cottage doorway and rolling fields are seasonally filled with blood red poppies in one of Mother Nature’s most spectacular displays.

The countryside of Pas-de-Calais is just perfect for picnics and country walks and cycling.

Relax and unwind on the golf course

This region is great for golfers with a dozen golf courses to choose from. Crowd-free fairways, stunning coast, glorious countryside, sea views that stop you in your tracks, or deep in the forest and valleys. Golf course La Mer in Le Touquet (18 holes) is rated in the top one 100 courses in continental Europe. It has fabulous views over the sea, plus a great clubhouse. Also along the coast you’ll find La Forêt (18 holes), Le Manoir (9 holes) and Wimereux (see the website golfencotedopale.com), while at Arras, just a few minutes from the historic city, the French Women’s Open has been hosted on numerous occasions at the 18-hole La Vallée, plus there is also the 9-hole Les Aubébines.

Pick up a Golf Pass which covers a round of golf at five of the seven 18-hole courses along the Opal Coast (€290, valid for 15 days, 2023).

Discover loads to see and do, the authentic, unusual and wow factor places of the great outdoors in Pas-de-Calais: visitpasdecalais.com

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Nip across the Channel and discover real Pas-de-Calais, a land of authentic fishing villages with a timeless beauty, Belle Epoque seaside resorts, historic towns, and world class cultural attractions…

The Opal Coast – perfect for beach lovers

Strung like pearls, tiny fishing villages and seaside resorts dot the shoreline of the Opal Coast. These hidden gems have long lured tourists, celebrities, royalty, and jet setters, as well as artists drawn to its light-filled beauty. Le Touquet Paris-Plage was once the jet set capital of Europe. It was home to the biggest hotel the world had ever seen in the early 20th century. Impressed by the town’s glamour, Ian Fleming wrote Casino Royale based on Le Touquet’s casino. The Scottish actor Sean Connery signed his first Bond contract there. Charles Dickens loved this area saying, “if only it were but 300 miles further off… how the English would rave about it.”

If you’re sporty – you’ll be in your element. There are activities galore from sailing and horse riding to sand yachting and golf.

If you’re more into culture and history, you’ll be spoiled for choice with festivals and events. Don’t miss the annual crab festival at tranquil Audresselles (June), and the herring festival at historic Etaples (November). Plus there are loads of markets and museums, there’s always something going on.

One of the most beautiful coastal roads of France

And for those who want to relax, the endless sandy beaches are perfect for the whole family. Follow the D940 road around the coast, up and down hills, a route that’s lined with stunning scenery. You’ll pass through authentic fishing villages where you can buy the freshest of just-caught fish from the front gardens of fishermen. Stop off to discover memorials and museums like the Todt Battery, Museum of the Atlantic Wall in Audinghen. Then take in the glorious clifftop scenery as you drop into the lovely seaside town of Wimereux.

Napoleon I was responsible for Wimereux’s development. He commissioned the foundation of a town and a port for his Grand Army. It was from this part of Pas-de-Calias that the Emperor intended to conquer England, clearly visible on clear days from the Opal Coast.

Nearby Merlimont-Plage, once a small fishing village, that became a seaside favourite with Parisians thanks to the arrival of the rail, is ideal for families. You can climb the dunes, visit a nature reserve, and go fishing the French way – on foot with a bucket or net at low tide. There’s also the Bagatelle theme park that’s bags of fun and suitable even for the youngest.

And at Le Portel, along the coast of Boulogne-sur-Mer, there is a feeling as if time has stood still with the little fishing cottages, wooden fishing boats parked on the beach, and fabulous views over the English Channel.

Perfect for history buffs

Boulogne-sur-Mer – A city by the sea

Boulogne-sur-Mer is where you’ll find a beautifully preserved old town. At it’s heart is the Basilica Notre Dame which has the biggest crypt in France (dating back to Roman times). Cobbled stone streets, ancient buildings, a chateau museum, quirky shops, and scrumptious restaurants – and don’t miss the UNESCO listed Belfry where you’ll see cannon balls fired on the town by King Henry VIII.

There’s also the biggest aquarium in Europe here. Nausicaá has sharks that swim around you in a glass tunnel, fish, sea lions, penguins, turtles, crocodiles, and many species of the marine world. With several events each day, including feeding the penguins, sea lion training sessions, and backstage tours – it’s an unmissable stop in the town. Plus, there’s a fabulous market which takes place on a Saturday morning. And nearby you’ll find one of the best cheese shops of northern France – Philippe Olivier – just follow your nose!

Montreuil-sur Mer – the town that inspired Les Misérables

Or, head to Montreuil-sur-Mer, a picture-perfect town perched on a hill. Go in the Summer to watch the townspeople dress up for a show stopping performance of Les Misérables. It’s performed on the ramparts in homage to Victor Hugo’s famous story which was inspired by his visit to this town. Wander the cobbled streets lined with ancient houses. Enjoy the stunning views over the countryside from the ramparts encircling the town. And pop to the old citadel with its fascinating little museum.

Agincourt – the Legend

The totally revamped Agincourt museum (2021) aims to tell the true story of the great 15^th century battle and provides new detail about the Anglo-French conflict dubbed The Hundred Years War. The Agincourt museum gives a lot of information in an easy and digestible way – in French and in English. Try games like Sovereigns of the Hundred Years’ War. Discover what soldiers ate and words from the Middle Ages. You’ll discover details of daily life, the clothes of the period, the illnesses, and medieval medical treatment.

Perfect for Culture Vultures

Museums and Unesco listed belfries

The world class Louvre-Lens museum is a branch of the Paris Louvre. There are hundreds of artworks covering 5000 years of history. The museum itself is an architectural marvel and with regularly changing exhibitions, it’s a cultural giant of France.

Look out for the UNESCO-listed belfries of the region. They were built in the Middle Ages as a symbol of the freedom of local communities. There are six remaining in Pas-de-Calais (with many more in the Nord department and in Belgium). You’ll find them in the historic towns of Aire-sur-la-Lys, Arras, Bethune, Calais, Boulogne and Hesdin, now a tranquil little market town but once a stronghold of the Spanish crown.

Cite de la Dentelle et de la Mode de Calais – Calais Lace and Fashion Museum of Calais hosts a permanent exhibition including fashion designs, lace samples and lingerie. Each year the museum hosts a world class exhibition. 2023 showcases a unique and astounding collection of designs by one of France’s greatest couturiers, Yves Saint Laurent. The City of Lace puts on events every week including lace making demonstrations, sewing workshops, weaving, silkscreen printing and more for children and adults throughout the summer see their website for more details

With so much to do year-round, any time is the perfect time to visit Pas-de-Calais.

Discover heaps of things to see and do in Pas-de-Calais: visitpasdecalais.com

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Calais is the perfect destination for a weekend, day trip and city break. There’s plenty to do and see from museums to memorial sites. The beach is beautiful. Calais la Plage, Calais by the sea, has had a massive makeover and is now one of the finest seaside destinations on the already gorgeous Opal Coast of northern France. The food is fabulous – from refined dining restaurants to seafood sensations, cosy little cafés, and atmospheric estaminets (traditional Flemish-style inns). And. There be dragons here. The colossal Calais dragon is a astounding sight, carrying passengers and creating one of the strangest and most captivating free street art performances in Europe…

Calais Dragon walks around the city!

The mechanical beast that lives in a glass fronted lair on the seafront is no ordinary dragon.

A whopping 82 feet long and 40 feet high – this dragon of the sea is majestic and monumental. It’s a mesmerising sight to see him sauntering along the seafront with happy passengers on his back.

Yes, this dragon, fire-breathing though he is, hosts up to 50 passengers at a time for a 45-minute guided tour along the beautiful seafront taking in the sites! With a panoramic platform on his back giving views over the English Channel towards the White Cliff of Dover, and the city, this is a ride to remember.

It is without doubt, also one of the most incredible free art shows in France, a head-turning spectacle that makes kids stare in wonder and adults smile at the magic of a mobile 72-ton wood and steel architectural marvel.

Enter the Dragon

Designed by François Delarozière, the genius behind the Machines de l’ile de Nantes, the Dragon of Calais, this is the most imposing of the company’s famous mechanical menagerie to date. The Dragon doesn’t just breathe fire, he spits water, sneezes, snorts, swings his considerable tail, roars out loud and flaps his wings. He’s not exactly a speedy mover, at 4km per hour there’s plenty of time to watch him wander past, operated by skilled ‘machinists’ (puppet masters).

Every performance the Dragon gives is unique because he reacts to his environment. He might bat his long eyelids at you in a surprisingly cute way! Or he might stop and stare into your eyes – and you can’t look away I promise you. He might spot a ferry in the Channel and lift his 57 feet long wings in a show of strength – this is his territory. He’ll roar and breath fire. If you’re really lucky – and under 12 years old or else you might think it not such a good idea – he’ll sprinkle dragon snot over you (AKA water!).

The Dragon is not alone…

The Dragon is the cheer leader for a vast artistic urban project planned for the town. And, he’s unforgettably, incredibly weird and wonderful.  With a dozen mad, magical, mechanical companions mooted to join him – the first, a 13 feet long iguana lives close by.

The Sentinel Iguana sits astride a shipping container from where it spits water, stands up, moves around and wags its tail! Rumour has it that, based on his colour, the iguana is a male, though no one knows for sure. And vets estimate he’s a youngster, just 13 years old! Unlike his cousin the Dragon, this captivating creature doesn’t give rides. He’s available to all who want to weave their own magic and play at being a machinist for themselves. Kids fall head over heels for him.

The creative Calais regeneration project will see more lizards join the gang. In total 10 machines will roam,  carrying passengers to and from iconic sites, whilst three will stay and rule the roost like the Sentinel Iguana. Their spellbindingly prodigious presence puts Calais firmly on the map as one of the most incredible theatrical street art rich cities in Europe.

Book online for your ride on the dragon at: compagniedudragon.com/en

Dragon food!

Ogling dragons is hungry work. Pop to the Dragon’s restaurant next to his lair. Enjoy  breakfast, lunch and aperitifs (including cocktails such as the Dragon des Mers which packs a Tequila Punch, and Dragon des Airs, a fruity alcohol free delight), at L’Antre du Dragon, restaurant, café, bar. It’s also the perfect place for Sunday brunch! Book in advance and see the menu at:

Find heaps of things to do and see, places to eat and more at: Calais-cotedopale.co.uk

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Several years ago, I saw a black and white photo of a run down but enormous building in a small town called Guise, not far from St Quentin, in the Aisne department of Picardy. The building looked palatial, and also a little bit like a Victorian factory. It was the Familistère, a 19th century social housing project for workers at the Godin factory which made the famous French cast iron stoves that are still sought after to this day. I was intrigued by it, but at that time, it was closed to the public. The article I read said this place wasn’t just about housing – it was an entire city with facilities for some 2000 inhabitants. I dreamed of one day visiting…

Well, it is now open to the public following a restoration that’s taken several years. And it makes for a truly fascinating visit.

Who was Godin

The “Familistère”, a “social palace” was built to house the employees and their families of the Godin cast-iron stove factory. Godin fires are still made in the region and assembled at the Guise factory, just a few miles from Fresnoy-le-Grand where Le Creuset create their iconic cast-iron cookware.

Jean-Baptiste André Godin was born in Aisne in 1817. He was the son of a locksmith and left school at the age of 11. An ordinary beginning to his life, but his legacy is anything but ordinary.

Aged just 17 he moved near Paris, and a year later began to travel. On the road for three years, he taught himself about architecture as he went. On his journey he became acutely aware of the plight of workers and of the poor conditions they worked and lived in. In 1840 aged 23, he married and opened his own workshop. He filed his first patent that year when he designed a revolutionary iron stove known to this day as a Godin fire. It was an enormous success.

He outgrew his workshop and in 1846 moved the business to Guise, creating a foundry with about 20 employees. But that was only the start.

A few years earlier he discovered ‘Foureierism’ – the concept of social science put forward by Charles Fourier. The concept profoundly affected him. As his business grew substantially, he used some of his new found wealth to fund a project to start a colony in Texas. It was based on Fourier’s teaching – that wealth and prosperity should be shared with the labourers, social reform that didn’t please the French ruling classes. 150 colonists left France – teachers, doctors and intellectuals. There was not a single agriculturist among them to help start the new colony.

Palace for the people

The project in Texas was an abject disaster. Many of the colonists died and the colony was abandoned. Godin lost a small fortune  and returned to France.

However, he didn’t give up on his dreams but instead moved them to France. In 1857 he bought a large piece of land in Guise. On it he created a workers ‘paradise’ – a residential building to house 1500 people – factory workers, employees and their families. The design of the building was based on the palace of Versailles. Residency was voluntary, and by 1870 almost 1000 people lived in the palace. There wasn’t a better, bigger apartment for the bosses or the administration workers, everyone was housed according to their needs, not their position.

On site was a laundrette, swimming pool, stores and a 600 seat theatre. It was essentially a small town within a town. And it was within easy walking distance of Godin’s now huge factory. He also built schools for workers children and even designed a wooden platform to make the pool suitable for children.

Godin called it a social palace.

Godin’s vision

Godin set a 10 hour working day when the norm at the time was 13-15 hours. And gave his workers Sunday off though there was no church in his town.

Workers generally earned around 150 francs per month and their rent was just 8-12 francs, a fraction of their wages leaving them more money to spend on other things.

He set up a workers union.The workers decided the rules in the factory via a series of committees.

The accommodation was spacious and hygienic, though it has to be said, some residents likened it to a prison.

It seemed like utopia.

But when he died in 1888 having tragically lost his only son just 15 days before, the running of the factory fell to the committees. Without his influence, it all fell apart as infighting and disagreement took over. Ultimately the experiment failed without him.

The German army occupied the site from 1914 to November 1918. They turned the theatre into a jail, the central palace became military hospital and they destroyed some of the buildings.

What can you see now?

The Utopia Project began in 2002 to restore the palace and remaining buildings. It is a triumph. You can tour some of the apartments, including Godin’s own apartment. Take a guided tour, visit the theatre (which has an active schedule of events), school and pool and discover the extraordinary story of a man of vision. There is a permanent exhibition as well as temporary exhibitions. Take a break in the lovely cafe on site (with a pretty garden terrace). And don’t miss the shop where you can buy Godin products – the famous fires, plus kitchen products including wonderfully heavy iron pans. The town of Guise is worth a detour, pretty little streets and a ruined castle you can visit.

Almost 200 years after it’s creation, the Familistère is mind boggling both in its architecture, and as a concept that was way ahead of its time.

Read more about what to see and do in Aisne in the free to read: The Good Life France Magazine 

Details of the visit at: familistere.com/fr

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

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Janine Marsh is Author of My Good Life in France: In Pursuit of the Rural Dream,  My Four Seasons in France: A Year of the Good Life and Toujours la France: Living the Dream in Rural France all available as ebook, print & audio, on Amazon everywhere & all good bookshops online. Her new book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle, is out in October 2023 – a look at the French way of life.

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Beer producers in the far north of France are revitalising the brewing industry, and in Lille micro-breweries have taken beer to new heights!

Is beer the new wine in France? If you go to Lille, the capital of the Hauts-de-France region, you will certainly be forgiven for thinking it is! The historic city has seen a rebirth of the beer-making industry over the last 20 years or so. But these new-breed micro-brewers aren’t just producing standard beers. They’re brewing new and exciting beers, experimental beers, sour beers, fruity beers, stout beer, blonde beer, old school IPAs, double IPAs, New England IPAs, American pale ale, lager, beers stored in whisky, Cognac and wine barrels and more. These new beers are having a ripple effect in the industry and the beer trend has spread throughout France.

The champagne of the north

Beer has been brewed in France for hundreds of years. But it’s due to French King Louis XIV that the culture of brewing in the north became so important. He ordered that beer imports from the Netherlands – which was at war with France – should cease, and northern France had to brew enough for French needs.

Until the 1990s beer was pretty much brewed in the traditional way in big breweries but the new micro-breweries are innovative, creative and sometimes playful with their mix. The new beers are all about brewing in an artisan way, there’s no algorithm for it, it’s about passion and experimenting and creating unique tastes. And the modern beers have found a whole new legion of fans.

There are more than 30 micro-breweries in Lille. Typically, there are just 3-4 people involved in the artisanal production process and they make around 1000hl (175,000 pints) per year – compared to companies like Heineken who make more than 1.5 million pints per day.

You’ll find an enormous choice of bars, breweries and bistros pairing beer and food in Lille…

Brewers feast – where to drink beer and eat in Lille

Best bars in Lille

Le Capsule: Locals will tell you this is THE bar to go to for beer lovers. It’s the oldest bar and one of the most popular in this arty city that’s just teeming with bars. Beer and food pairing is a growing trend in France and at Le Capsule, they do a great charcuterie board to go with the many, many beers you can try.

Draft beers include French, International and Belgian plus there are local beer.  Sour beer, IPA, double IPA, stout, Pale Ale, American IPA, organic – they’ve got something to suit all beer tastes here. Choose a tasting glass if you want to try several – the staff here really know their beer. Don’t hesitate to ask them for help and they will provide tips and advice on the perfect beer for you. A real institution for beer lovers.

Knowledgeable staff, comfy chairs and an outstanding, constantly updated range of beers – what’s not to love. Bar-lacapsure.fr

Hein!

There’s a new breed of tap room in Lille – fun, quirky, funky with micro-breweries making new beers throughout the year and serving them with food that’s perfectly paired with beer. At micro-brewery Hein in the centre of Lille, the eclectic mix of granny kitsch, industrial chic and modern vibrant colours is eccentrically brilliant. Every two weeks they launch a new beer. If the customers like them they produce more! The menu features traditional northern dishes like carbonade flamande (beef cooked in beer) and chips.

Manager Loic Movellan says “Sure we make beer with hops and malt, but we also make beer using mango smoke, pepper and coffee, vanilla, raspberry, mint and lime. Our mission is to help people discover every type of beer, we want to democratise beer.”

This chain has three taprooms in Lille: briquehouse.com

Bier Buik

The brainchild of local boy and Top Chef champion Florent Layden – beer and local food that goes well with beer are on the menu at Bier Buik – but with an innovative approach. It’s a ‘new generation’ Estaminet, the Flemish word for an inn. Expect chips – with Maroilles, the local very stinky cheese, sauce, meat cooked over a wood fire, generous portions served with craft beers. You don’t reserve for this one, just turn up. Long tables where everyone sits together, and a vibrant night life scene with music and dancing – and beer! bierbuik.fr

Beer Tour

Take a craft beer tasting tour, guided tour with a ‘beerologist’, and even a blind beer tasting treasure hunt with Echappée Bière. There are several ways to discover historic Lille and enjoy beer, including in an iconic 2CV.

Three brilliant Lille brewers

Brewbaix at Roubaix

Brewer Jerome Gervais and his small team make beer in a big shed in the Roubaix district of Lille. His hugely popular innovative beers include meringues, chocolate and vanilla in the recipe! Jerome started out making beer as a hobby at home and people wanted more of his produce. Eventually it became a business and now has a three man team brewing twice a day. A keen cyclist, in the early days he pedalled a static bike to make power needed for the machinery! It certainly got him noticed and he became famous as the ‘cycling brewer’ when he was interviewed during famous Paris/Roubaix cycle coverage on TV.

Roubaix, home to the world famous La Piscine art deco swimming baths turned museum, is renowned for its recycling credentials. Jerome embodies this ethos, for instance using stale bread that boulangeries don’t want to make beer with. And donating all beer waste to local farmers. He also uses bigger bottles which can be recycled. An enterprising company has set up a collection service which supports all the local brewers and collects the big bottles, cleans, sterilises and returns them to the brewers to reuse. ‘Glass is going to become more and more expensive, it’s important that we don’t waste it’ he says.

He even recycles the big cardboard delivery trays, local schools use them for the kids to paint on. ‘I’m trying to think of a way to use my bike to power the machine that puts lids on bottles’ he grins ‘but it’s just an idea in my head right now!’ The re-cycling brewer who makes fabulous beer – it’s got legs!

Brasserie Cambier

At Brasserie Cambier, you can go and watch the beer being brewed and relax at the tasting bar. Though production is on a more professional scale than at Brewbaix, they are also experimenting with ingredients such as elderflower. Jean-Christophe Cambier used to be a quality manager for a large German beer maker but had dreams to make beer with more personality.  ‘Palates are evolving and people want to try different types of beers’ he says.

There’s a fabulous tasting tap room on site in full view of the brewing equipment. Traditional beers the locals love are on offer, plus experimental beers that a new youth market of beer lovers adore. A local artist decorates the cans and bottles he uses, and he too recycles bottles. ‘Making beer is an art form’ he says, ‘like making cheese and cakes.’ You can also take a tour of the brewery (book in advance via the website). It’s great beer and a great ambiance in the tap room. brasseriecambier.fr

Motte Cordonnier

Motte Cordonier was a huge name in beer-making in France going back some 300 years. It was bought out by Belgian brewery Stella Artois in 1970. Now Henry Motte, grandson of the last of a long line of beer-makers is resurrecting the practice near the family’s old brewing premises in Armentières on the outskirts of Lille. 15 members of the family support the project which as much as possible uses local produce.

This is the second oldest brewery in France. If you walk round Lille you will be sure to see the star symbol of the company. The name of the beers reflect its history and those who played a part. Beer Emile is named after an employee who worked at the company for 50 years. Emile  is famous in Armentières! He started as a delivery driver and worked his way up to head of brewing. His grandson worked there for 48 years. Beer Camille is named after Henry’s great grandmother. Beer René is named for another family member. So many locals worked here over the years, there’s even a Facebook group of 600 members who all have links to the brewery. Henry has plans to open a small museum to showcase the mementoes he has collected over the years.

Production is not on a large scale – more artisan than in the past. The beers are very popular – from the traditional to more experimental which include ingredients such as ginger and yuzu, coffee and pepper. Every Friday, there’s a tasting session in the atmospheric warehouse where you can buy the beers. bieresmottecordonnier.fr

More on Lille

Details for what to see and do in Lille: Lilletourism.com

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Experience a taste of medieval life in the lush green countryside of Azincourt in northern France.

On one fateful day, 25 October 1415, a famous battle between the army of the English King Henry V and the French King, commanded by Constable Charles d’Albret – gave birth to a legend. The fierce fighting ended with a resounding victory for the English who had less men and were exhausted from a long March. The countryside around Agincourt ran red with the blood of the dead and the wounded.

The day is honoured still in France. The Agincourt 1415 centre is surrounded by the fields where the great battle took place. The museum tells the history of the battle with innovative displays, video, and artefacts. It also reveals what life was like for people in the 15^th century, what they ate, how they dressed and what they believed in. It’s a great visit for the whole family (read more about the museum, the battle and the legends that it spawned).

The centre also holds year-round events from workshops and exhibitions, to candlelit visits and banquets plus shows. And in July 2023 they will host a grand medieval fete after an absence of five years!

The Agincourt Medieval Fete

Two days of medieval mayhem await at Agincourt in mid-July. You can expect an exciting equestrian tournament and a fascinating demonstration of how the aristocratic soldiers prepared for battle in their heavy armour, as well as a show of medieval artillery, cuisine and more.

On both days the event culminates with a ‘battle’ – a re-enactment of that fateful day and its terrible battle played out by volunteers and actors in costume.

And yes the English are welcome! The medieval fete is a unique event and like the museum, not only honours a historic battle and bring medieval history to life but also celebrates Franco-British friendship.

When: 10.30 – 17.30 15 and 16 July 2023

Where: Azincourt Museum, Azinourt

Find out more: azincourt1415.com

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The department of Aisne in Picardy is the ancient cradle of France. Its capital Laon was once also the capital of France, and it is the only place in the world where Champagne is produced – outside of Champagne. Discover a land brimming with historic cities, glorious countryside, picturesque villages and monumental cultural sites…

Laon a historic city

The great French writer Victor Hugo once said, “everything is beautiful in Laon.” Almost 200 years after his visit, he would recognise its Cathedral and winding streets of ancient buildings – a whopping 84 listed monuments – and surely feel the same way.

This ancient city with its ramparts and stone gateways was the capital of France from the 8^th to 10^th centuries when Paris was still a village. Perched on a hill at 180m high, the site is perfect for defence, and Queen Berthe au Grand Pied (the unlikely named Bertha of the Big Feet), mother of the great Charlemagne, made Laon her seat of government. It was only when Hugues Capet was made King in 987, that Paris became the capital. Laon though, remained an important religious city and a centre of learning.

The 800 year old cathedral of Notre Dame, a Gothic masterpiece, dominates the upper town. Flanked by two magnificent turreted towers, from which large stone oxen peer. They are a nod to the sturdy beasts who dragged the stones to build it and the local legend that when an exhausted oxen fell to the ground, a white ox was sent by God to help carry the stones. The façade is intricately carved and inside there are beautiful 13^th century stained glass windows. The sound of monks chanting creates a spiritual atmosphere.

What to see in Laon

The streets around the Cathedral are lined with old buildings, all encompassed within the medieval ramparts from which there are wonderful views over the town below and the countryside. On clear days you can see as far as the plain of neighbouring Champagne.

Look closely at some of the buildings and you’ll notice fossils and shells embedded in the walls. They’re left over from the time when the area was under a tropical sea – some 65 million years ago. And many of the buildings are listed historic monuments including the tourist office which is located in a building dating to 1167 and the underground passages of the Citadel. There is a legend that at the 16th century Cour du Change, formerly known as the Hotellerie du Dauphin in rue Sérurier, King Louis XIII stayed on a stormy night in 1638. He and his wife Anne of Austria had prayed for children but to no avail. However that night, Louis XIV was conceived. Just don’t check the dates too carefully, you might see that there are 13 months between the night Louis XIII stayed and Louis XIV’s birth!

Laon is also where Abelard and Heloise met – the Romeo and Juliet of France. It was a tragic love story, the student, Heloise falling for the teacher, marrying in secret and having a baby against the wishes of her uncle/guardian. The lovers were torn apart and she was sent to an abbey whilst he was castrated on the orders of Heloise’ uncle. You’ll spot their likeness in the fabulous street art that illuminates the town.

You can book guided tours at the town hall to discover Laon’s many secrets and charms. Tourisme-paysdelaon.com

Familistère of Guise – a most unusual Museum

Guise was once an important border town ruled by the powerful Dukes of Guise. Now it is a rather sleepy place with pretty streets, a ruined castle and superbly restored fortified church. But its most famous attraction is the monumental Familistère – a ‘social palace.’

It was created by Jean-Baptiste André Godin, founder of the famous Godin stoves company.  He was born in 1817 in Aisne, the son of a locksmith and left school at the age of 11. At 17 he moved to Paris, taught himself architecture. In 1840 he returned to Aisne and began manufacturing a cast-iron heating-stove which he had designed. To this day they are known as Godins in France and an astonishing number of them have survived, still working to this day – I have one myself!

Godin made a fortune from his stoves and at its height his factory in Guise employed almost a thousand workers. In 1856, moved by the plight of workers living conditions, Godin started to build the Familistère, a place where his employees and their families could live. It also had a nursery, school, laundrette, shops, 600-seat theatre and swimming pool. The monumental residential building was based on the Palace of Versailles with apartments for up to 900 people. It was essentially a small town, and all within easy walking distance of the huge factory. He called it a social palace.

The social palace

Around 75% of the workforce lived there with their families. He paid workers well, around 150 francs per month and their rent was just 8-12 francs. He set a 10 hour working day when the norm at the time was 13-15 hours. And gave his workers Sunday off. He set up a workers union who decided the rules in the factory via a series of committees.

It seemed like utopia… But when he died in 1888 having lost his only son just 15 days before, the running of the factory fell to the committees and without his influence it all fell apart as infighting and disagreement took over.

The German army occupied the site from 1914 to November 1918. They turned the theatre into a jail, the central palace became military hospital and they destroyed some of the buildings.

The Utopia Project began in 2002 to restore the palace and remaining buildings. It is a triumph. You can tour an apartment, have a guided tour, visit the theatre and pool and discover this extraordinary tale. There’s a cafe on site and a great shop where you can buy Godin products. Familistere.com

Saint-Quentin – Art Deco dazzler

Born in France, Art Deco began in 1908 – a merging of art of various influences: antiquity, cubism, the arts of Africa and the Far East.

Saint-Quentin has been through a lot. Founded by the Romans, it was a major medieval trading centre. It’s been invaded, conquered, besieged and finally all but destroyed during World War I – the Great War as the French call it. Rebuilt in the 1920s it has many Art Deco buildings including the extraordinary railway station where trains ran from as early as 1850. It became a key site in the 1940s when Saint-Quentin once more come under foreign control and the city became the headquarters of the 2nd German army.

Visit now and you’ll find a hugely cultural city with 9 museums and extraordinary buildings.

The station buffet, a listed historical monument, is pure Art Deco with walls and furniture covered in soft silver and glistening gold mosaics with an accent of bright red, featuring flowers and Normandy ocean liner window design. From the station it’s a short walk across the canal to the town. Built in 1801, it was the first canal north of Paris and inaugurated by Napoleon in recognition of its importance to France.

In the city, the Art Deco vibe is everywhere. There are some 3000 buildings that feature the Art Deco style of which 300 are classified as Historic Monuments. This includes the tourist office where you can book an audio guide and route map.

Museum of Beaux-Arts Saint-Quentin

Whatever you do don’t miss the Musée des Beaux-Arts Antoine Lécuyer which in my opinion is the city’s star. There is a superb collection of pastels by Maurice Quentin de la Tour, known as the ‘King of the Pastels’, an artist who ‘looked into the souls’ of his subjects and then captured their likeness with pastels in a way never seen before or since. Sadly not all the pastels were out when I visited but enough for me to be able to be completely amazed. Destination-saintquentin.fr

4 Must-sees in Aisne

Champagne vineyards in Picardy!

Chateau-Thierry in Aisne is the only place in the world outside of champagne where champagne is made. There are cellars dating to the 12th century and 400 vineyards producing Champagne. Visit Champagne Pannier for a tour and tasting and to stock up on their superb fizz. champagnepannier.com

Jardin Viel Maison

There are 16 sections to this magnificent private garden and it looks different in each of the four seasons. In the distance you can hear the town church bells, spot woodpeckers and wild birds and wander at will to enjoy the superb planting. Book in advance: jardins-vielsmaisons.net

Chemin des Dames

During World War I, the Chemin des Dames was a frontline position where violent fighting took place. There an underground quarry called ‘The Caverne du Dragon’ which was turned into army barracks. Today you can visit the galleries and see the chapel, first aid station, command post and No Man’s Land which movingly testify to the lives of the soldiers – both French and German – who fought and lived, sometimes even side by side, within the confines of the cavern and the countryside around. chemindesdames.fr

Chateau de Conde

Once home to the Princes of Conde and still lived in, this glorious castle was transformed into the Renaissance gem in the 16^th century for Louis de Bourbon. Sumptuously decorated with gorgeous gardens, it’s well worth a visit. chateaudeconde.com

Find out more on the Aisne tourism website: jaimelaisne.com

The post What to see and do in Aisne, Picardy appeared first on The Good Life France.

There are no real winners when two nations fall out, but today we live in an age when wars can rumble on for years and involve countless civilian casualties. So it’s a surreal experience to visit the Agincourt Museum next to a field where an international conflict – legendary for hundreds of years – was all wrapped up before teatime.

The Battle of Agincourt kicked off in heavy rain late in the morning of October 25th 1415, St Crispin’s Day. And by mid-afternoon, the cream of French nobility had been cut down in the mud by the firepower of English archers.

The English army

The English army, now believed to be around 8,500 men, were marching to Calais to return home by boat after a campaign in Normandy. They were led by King Henry V, and faced a French army of around 12,000 men. Henry’s army of English soldiers and largely from Wales archers, were already exhausted and suffering from dysentery. Some of them removed their trousers and fought half naked. Many of them kissed the earth of this corner of Pas de Calais in northern France. They believed they would be buried in it later that day. Henry V heard Mass, not just once, but three times.

The French army

The French were led by the Constable of France Charles d’Albret and Marshal Jean II le Meingre (Boucicaut). The battle ‘barely lasted a few hours’ says Ludovic Hiltenbrand, manager of the Centre Azincourt 1415. But it was a decisive victory for the English and became the stuff of legend. The French, wearing heavy armour and bogged down in mud were cut down as armour-piercing arrows with a range of 250 yards were unleashed from the innovative longbows of their enemy. Among the lost was Gallois de Fougières, a Marshall of France. He was effectively the first recorded gendarme to have died in the line of duty. The uniformed official we know today, the ‘Gendarme’, is a derivative of ‘gens d’armes’, or people with arms (weapons), hence the expression ‘to take up arms.’

Look for Agincourt on the map and you won’t find it. The village is actually called Azincourt, nestled in the lush countryside of The Seven Valleys. The change of spelling is down to a mispronunciation by an English knight. When asked by Henry V for the name of the nearby fortress he pronounced it Agincourt.

You can still see the field where the face off took place. Most of it is now farmland and all of it bordered by quiet country roads – a 4km circuit on foot or by car.

In the heart of the village, you’ll find the excellent Centre Azincourt 1415 museum.

Centre Azincourt 1415 – The Agincourt Museum

The totally revamped Agincourt museum (2021) aims to tell the true story of the great 15^th century battle and provides new detail about the Anglo-French conflict dubbed The Hundred Years War.

The new museum was designed by British Professor and author Anne Curry Emeritus Professor of Medieval History at the University of Southampton and French historian and author Christophe Gillot, Director of the Centre. They pored over material pertaining to the Battle of Agincourt that has survived in the National archives in the UK as well as chronicles and material in France. Their work has led to a new understanding of the battle.

The legend of Agincourt

For many centuries much of our ‘knowledge’ of Agincourt has come from William Shakespeare. Who can listen and not be moved by the stirring speeches the English king gives in Shakespeare’s Henry V (1599):

‘Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more;
And
‘We few, we happy few, we band of brothers’

They are words which have inspired time and again, representing “Englishness” and triumph in the face of adversity. Some 500 years later Laurence Olivier’s famous film of the play, released in 1944, was dedicated to the commandos and airborne troops who made D-Day possible. A great piece of propaganda.

But not everything we think we know is true. And the Centre Azincourt1415 sets out to dispel the myths and examine the real and extraordinary story.

The Agincourt museum gives a lot of information in an easy and digestible way – in French and in English. Try games like Sovereigns of the Hundred Years’ War. Discover what soldiers ate, and words from the Middle Ages, and details of daily life, the clothes of the period, the illnesses, the treating of wounds.

The section devoted to armour shows how different ranks were protected. Of course, the richer you were, the better your equipment. A video demonstrates how a knight put on his armour (not an easy task). And you get a chance to feel the weight of a helmet, handle a medieval sword and feel the force needed to shoot a longbow. There are interactive screens to play with, videos and clever touches – listen to the Hundred Years’ War explained in 100 seconds.

The Centre Azincourt 1415 puts on events every year – medieval banquets, Night at the Museum, exhibitions and more. (See the website below for details).

What to see around and about

But Azincourt isn’t the only reason to stop over in this delightful area of gentle, rolling farmland dotted with small villages and farms. Five small rivers flow south to join two larger rivers – the Canche and Authie, hence the name Seven Valleys. Drop into the Tourist Office in historic Hesdin for information on outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling and fishing.

Follow the Canche through the Seven Valleys towards its estuary at Le Touquet and you pass through Montreuil-sur-Mer. Definitely worth a stopover in anyone’s book for its rampart walks, historic citadel and cobbled streets. It’s here that Victor Hugo set part of Les Misérables.

Montreuil has also become a hot destination for foodies, thanks to an indecent number of good restaurants for a town of just 2,500 people. Enjoy Alexandre Gauthier’s Michelin-starred fare at La Grenouillère beneath the ramparts. Or a traditional flammekueche at Le Caveau.

Montreuil has plenty of interesting independent shops, the sort you rarely see on British high streets nowadays. Cheese fans should pack a cool bag to stock up from Fromagerie Caseus on Place Général de Gaulle. A large market is held on the square on Saturday mornings. On the opposite corner, Aux Douceurs d’Antan stocks a range of local products from chocolates and biscuits to soup, jam and beer. Children will love Dragibonbons, a sweet shop on rue d’Hérambault that makes its own themed ‘cakes’ from sweets. Whilst Oliviers near the Citadel is an Aladdin’s cave of wines and spirits.

By Gillian Thornton and Janine Marsh

DETAILS

Centre Azincourt 1415, 24 rue Charles VI, 62310 Azincourt, www.azincourt1415.fr
Open all year round: 10 am – 5:30 pm except Tuesdays (10am – 4:30pm); July/August: 10 am – 6:30 pm

The post Agincourt | The legends and a historic museum appeared first on The Good Life France.

Why head to the south of France when the north has so much to offer? I get it. It’s what almost everyone does. “It’s wall to wall sunshine in the south” they say. “There are beaches. The food is fabulous. The map says follow this route for a whole day.”

But take it from me, stop off in the north of France and you’ll find out why that habit of heading south needs to change. Discover a part of France that’s truly authentic, where the food is sensational, the countryside is idyllic and the seaside is glorious. There are historic towns and cities, battlefield and remembrance sites, world-class museums, gorgeous little villages, spectacular countryside with great cycling and hiking routes, water sports and some activities that are unique. And if that sounds tempting – then I know just the place for you… Saint-Omer is an absolute jewel of the north of France.

Discover Saint-Omer

Saint-Omer in the Pas de Calais department is just 30 minutes from Calais by car and 2.5 hours from Paris by car or train. It is a town that has an extraordinary history spanning millennia. The Romans set up shop here. Thomas Becket AKA Saint Thomas of Canterbury, took refuge there. Three of America’s Founding Fathers studied at the Jesuit Chapel. Saint-Omer is the symbolic home of the British Royal Air Force and it’s where Douglas Bader, hero of the RAF in WWII was shot down, escaped from his captors and was sheltered in the town.

And surrounding Saint-Omer is some of the most bucolic countryside in France, with shades of the Dordogne.

Visit the town

Start your visit at Place du Maréchal Foch in the centre of the town. It’s lined with gourmet food shops and cafés that are perfect for sitting outside and watching the life of the town go on. Behind the theatre which dominates this ancient square, is Guy Delalleau’s delicious boulangerie/patisserie – his cakes are like small works of art and taste as good as they look – it’s not to be missed. Around the squares are cobbled streets with 300 year old merchants houses and majestic manors, a place that lures artists to capture the topsy-turvy Flemish style. The River Aa runs through the town and makes for a pretty walk  and if you happen to be there in the last week in July, you’ll be able to join in the fun of the annual nautical procession, a carnival of floats on water!

Park your car (there are several free car parks) and pick up a map from the tourist office. It’s in a tranquil green area behind the Cathedral and where you can sit on Paris style park chairs at the café and listen to those mellow bells ring. And if you go on Saturday morning, you’ll find one of the best markets in the region. Saint-Omer is a place to wander,  and discover it’s many secrets…

Notre Dame

The former Cathedral of Notre Dame is a stunning, flamboyant  13^th century Gothic church and inside is even more impressive. It houses the tomb of Saint Omer, medieval funeral slabs, a several centuries old statue of Christ and a collection of paintings including The Descent from The Cross by Rubens. There are several ornate marble side chapels inside one of which hangs an RAF regimental flag, a reminder that the aerodrome at Longuenesse on the outskirts of Saint-Omer is the spiritual home of the RAF, the successor to the Royal Flying Corps who had their HQ here during WWI. The Cathedral also houses a mind-boggling astronomical clock dating to 1588, one of the oldest in France. There’s also a vast 300 year-old 115-pipe organ, a listed historic monument, which if you are lucky enough to hear played, will leave you with a lasting memory.

Palais de Cathédrale

Around the great Cathedral are beautiful mansion houses including the Palais de la Cathédrale at 12 Rue Henri Dupuis. Owner Jean-Luc Montois has spent the last few years restoring it to look as it did two hundred years ago when it was lived in by a local merchant. Although Jean-Luc lives there, he has opened it to the public and to enter is like stepping back in time. It is an extraordinary, exquisite home that is filled with wonderful treasures that he has collected for many decades. Book a tour via Saint-Omer tourist office

A sumptuous Theatre

The locals affectionally call the exquisite domed building which dominates the Place du Marechal Foch – Le Moulin à café, the coffee grinder. Completed in 1840 on the site of the former 14^th century Alderman’s Hall, it became the Town Hall complete with an opulent Italian-style theatre which gave the local bigwigs bragging rights. The theatre closed in 1973 and for 45 years was hidden from sight. In 2018, after restoration, it reopened to the public, complete with the original stage machinery. In its day it attracted some of the most performers of the time including Edith Piaf and Luis Mariano. Under an ornate ceiling, the circular opera-style theatre has three balconies and private boxes. Book tickets via labacarolle.org

Ancient Library

From the outside, the municipal library in Saint-Omer does little to tempt. It’s a modern building of the sort found in every town in every country. But – go inside, head to the first floor and discover the wood-panelled former Jesuit Chapel library filled with thousands of ancient books some of which date to the 7^th century. Their collection includes a first volume Gutenberg Bible. Less than 50 of the original 180 copies thought to be printed have survived. Not long ago, an eagle-eyed librarian dusting the shelves spotted a Shakespeare first Folio. Those two books alone are worth some $50million.

The Jesuit Chapel

Next door to the library, the Jesuit Chapel was built from 1615 to 1640 by Jean du Blocq (1583-1656), a Jesuit architect who also designed the Cathedral of Luxembourg. He was inspired by Gesù, the Jesuit church in Rome, combined with Gothic style. It’s here that Founding Fathers Charles Carroll, signer of the Declaration of Independence, Daniel Carroll, one of the Constitution’s two authors, and John Carroll who became America’s first Catholic Bishop and founder of Georgetown University, spent many years studying. It’s now used as a performance and cultural venue.

Abbey of Saint-Bertin

By the neo-classical train station of Saint-Omer, one of the most beautiful in France and a listed historic monument, you’ll find the remains of Saint Bertin’s Abbey. It was destroyed during the French Revolution. But it was here that in the 7th century, a Swiss monk called Omer arrived. He’d been sent to become Bishop of nearby Thérouanne. He founded an abbey in what was known then as Sitiu. It became the Abbey of Saint Bertin, named after one of Omer’s helpers. The town that grew up around it became Saint-Omer. The abbey was expanded over the years and was updated to the Gothic style now evident in the ruins.

It was here in 1165 that Thomas Beckett who became a Saint, sought refuge from Henry II. The abbey became so important that a prince’s quarters was built for visiting Kings and Queens. Francis 1 came here on his way to the Field of the Cloth of Gold Summit with Henry VIII in nearby Guînes. Historians believe that Anne Boleyn may also have been there in the retinue of Queen Claude, wife of King France, though no one knows if she met Henry VIII at this time. Coincidentially, it was from Saint-Omer that Henry VIII later sought a swordsman to lop off poor Anne’s head.

Loved by a King

Louis XIV also came here in 1677 when Saint-Omer, which had been under Spanish rule, was taken back by the French. He visited the floating islands of the marshes that surround the town, famous even then. In fact he was so impressed he returned three years later with the entire royal family and the court. He stayed at the Governor’s Hotel at the spot where the Sandelin Museum now is. The people of Saint-Omer marked his first visit with an inscription on the grand doors to the Cathedral. You can still see it, proudly displayed! Louis rewarded the town by having his engineer Vauban reinforce the rampart walls which now encircle a beautiful park.

Musée Sandelin

The museum contains works by Flemish, Dutch and French masters, tapestries. There’s also a wonderful collection of ceramics. Plus a fascinating clay pipe collection which pays homage to the town’s past as an important producer of pipes and pottery.

After you’ve enjoyed the many attractions of the town, nip to the countryside on its doorstep and discover the Clairmarais. The UNESCO listed biosphere marshland iswhere you can take a boat ride and discover the wildlife, unusual residences and much, much more…

The Audomarois Marshlands

Hire a boat or take a guided ride in traditional wooden bacoves. Float along tree-lined canals buzzing with bird life, where migrating herons stop off and the postman delivers post by boat. It’s the only area in France with such a service to homes which sit on floating islands in the marshes. This 15 square mile network of canals and farmland is unique in France and a UNESCO-listed Biosphere Reserve. It was started by monks in 638. They diverted the River Aa, divided the land into plots and farmed the land. Today a few dozen market gardeners continue to work the plots. It is the cauliflower capital of France with some 5million grown each year.

Visit the Maison du Marais, less than 10 minutes on foot from the centre of Saint-Omer. It’s  dedicated to the history of the marshes, features exhibits, an educational garden, and boat tours of the marshes. lamaisondumarais.com/en

Marshland activities

Meet the last of the Saint-Omer boat makers: In a wooden shed on the edge of the marsh, a team of enthusiasts make up the last Audomarois shipyard in existence. Take a fascinating guided tour to discover how this family business continues to hand-make the traditional wooden boats of the marshes. They use 500 year-old plans and wood that is up to 100 years old.

You can also hire a boat here: lesfaiseursdebateaux.fr

Explore in style: Hire a 2CV, VW camper van or vintage electric bikes for a day, half-day or weekend. les-belles-echappees.com

Beer: While you’re at their office, nip to the brewery on the grounds of an extraordinary Abbey. It was founded by Saint Bernard de Clairvaux in the 12^th century. But the once monumental Monastery of Clairmairais was yet another victim of the French Revolution and now just ruins remain. There was a brewery on the grounds until 1790 and it’s here that Laurent Delafosse now brews his fabulous beers. w

True beer lovers shouldn’t miss a visit to the Brasserie Goudale in nearby Arques. It’s a branch of the Brasserie de Saint-Omer company, a hugely successful brewery started by the legendary André Pecque AKA the ‘King of Beer’. Some of his best known brews include La Goudale (Old English for good ale), Saint-Omer and Le Panaché. Brasserie-goudale.com

Rando Rail: Pedal a 4-person kart on an old railway line through leafy woods and across fields on a 10km ride. www.rando-rail.com

Close by

La Coupole is an unmissable visit just 7km from Saint-Omer. Beneath a 72 metres wide, five-and-a-half metres thick, 55,000 tonne concrete dome, Hitler had a secret V2 rocket base built. A strike to the entrance put paid to its aim to churn out bomb-carrying rockets. Today it is a fascinating and haunting historical and scientific museum. You get goosebumps when you walk into the chilly and chilling 20 metre high tunnels where the V2 rockets were prepared for launch.

This former bunker is also the home of the most advanced planetarium in the world. With a unique 15m wide screen with 10K resolution, the seats are interactive with audience response technology and the 3D films (D-Day Normandy, 1944; Explore and Voyager which make you feel as if you’re in space with astronauts) are nothing short of utterly incredible. I promise you I gasped out loud and ducked when rocks from Mars came hurtling towards my head! lacouple-france.com

Vintage train ride: in nearby Arques, hop on a steam train or vintage train and explore the gorgeous countryside in style on the Aa Valley tourist railway. cftva62.com

Day at the seaside: Saint-Omer is around one hour from the glorious beaches of the Opal Coast including Wimereux with its Belle Epoque villas, Audresselles an authentic little fishing village and historic Boulogne-sur-Mer.

Where to eat

Traditional: La Baguernette on the edge of the marshes, and next to the embarkation point for a boat trip. Their speciality is suckling pig cooked in milk for eight hours in a wood-fired oven. They also serve local favourite beer tart, utterly irresistible. labaguernette.fr/en

Upmarket: La Bacôve, opened by Top Chef winner Camille Delcroix. Refined, innovative and seriously scrumptious food in a beautiful setting. restaurant-bacove.com

Tourist office: tourisme-saintomer.com

The post Guide to Saint-Omer – quintessential northern France appeared first on The Good Life France.

Less than 30 minutes drive from Calais port lies Wimereux, a Belle Epoque seaside town on the Opal Coast. It is though best reached by taking the ‘route 66’ of northern France which may take longer as you’re unlikely to be able to resist stopping off. You’ll drive on uncrowded roads, past meadows and pastures where curious cows lift their heads. You’ll pass through authentic fishing villages where you can buy the freshest of just caught fish from the front gardens of fishermen and their families. You can stop off to discover memorials and museums. The D940 takes you up and down hills until you drop into Wimereux, just before you reach Boulogne-sur-Mer. Discover what to see and do in Wimereux – it’s not big, but it is beautiful.

Belle Epoque fantasy

The Opal coast has long lured tourists, celebrities, royalty and jetsetters. President de Gaulle holidayed in Wissant just 20km from Wimereux. Charles Dickens loved this area saying “if only it were but 300 miles further off… how the English would rave about it.” A little further round the coast, Le Touquet Paris-Plage was once the jetset capital of Europe, home to the biggest hotel the world had ever seen in the early 20th century. Impressed by the town’s glamour, Ian Fleming wrote Casino Royale based on Le Touquet’s casino, and Sean Connery signed his first Bond contract there.

Wimereux is rather more sedate than Le Touquet, but doesn’t lack for glamour. Its Belle Epoque villas in the Anglo-Norman style, are whimsical but impressive. Decorative facades are painted in all the colours of the rainbow and sprinkled throughout the streets which lead to the long sandy beach.

What to see and do in Wimereux

Napoleon I was responsible for Wimereux’s development. He commissioned the foundation of a town and a port for his Grand Army, intending to conquer England, just across the English Channel and clearly visible on clear days from the Opal Coast.

The supervised beach is superb, vast and sandy with a rocky slipway for boats where children fish for shrimp. But it’s not a seasonal-only seaside town, it’s residential so with few exceptions, most places are open year round. The promenade of Wimereux is a wonderful place to well… promenade!

There are sports activities, sailing, and horse riding, plus a great golf course on top of the cliffs. The town has a varied and cultural programme including a summer festival dedicated to mussels which breed in proliferation along this coast line. There is a weekly market which triples in size in the summer months.

The town remains resolutely old-style French. There are no big chain stores or coffee shops. There are boutiques and quirky stores, cafés and bars, bread and cake shops. Along the sea front there are larger restaurants. In a prime spot overlooking the sea you’ll find the Art Deco style Hotel Atlantic. It has a laid back style which belies its Michelin-star status. Expect the freshest fish and gourmet dishes from the first floor starred restaurant. On the found floor is a non-starred bistro.

Canadian John McCrae is buried in Wimereux where he died in 1918. The author of the haunting poem “In Flanders Field” is honoured on 11 November each year when children in local schools light candles in his memory and read his poem out loud.

Wimereux is a relaxing and an ideal get-away-from-it-all seaside town, with a lot of style and a great base to explore the wider area.

More on the Opal Coast area

Nausicaa, Boulogne-sur-Mer, one of the Europe’s largest and best aquariums

Guide to Boulogne-sur-Mer 

Le Touquet Paris-Plage

Fabulous French seaside towns on the Opal Coast

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