Several years ago, I saw a black and white photo of a run down but enormous building in a small town called Guise, not far from St Quentin, in the Aisne department of Picardy. The building looked palatial, and also a little bit like a Victorian factory. It was the Familistère, a 19th century social housing project for workers at the Godin factory which made the famous French cast iron stoves that are still sought after to this day. I was intrigued by it, but at that time, it was closed to the public. The article I read said this place wasn’t just about housing – it was an entire city with facilities for some 2000 inhabitants. I dreamed of one day visiting…

Well, it is now open to the public following a restoration that’s taken several years. And it makes for a truly fascinating visit.

Who was Godin

The “Familistère”, a “social palace” was built to house the employees and their families of the Godin cast-iron stove factory. Godin fires are still made in the region and assembled at the Guise factory, just a few miles from Fresnoy-le-Grand where Le Creuset create their iconic cast-iron cookware.

Jean-Baptiste André Godin was born in Aisne in 1817. He was the son of a locksmith and left school at the age of 11. An ordinary beginning to his life, but his legacy is anything but ordinary.

Aged just 17 he moved near Paris, and a year later began to travel. On the road for three years, he taught himself about architecture as he went. On his journey he became acutely aware of the plight of workers and of the poor conditions they worked and lived in. In 1840 aged 23, he married and opened his own workshop. He filed his first patent that year when he designed a revolutionary iron stove known to this day as a Godin fire. It was an enormous success.

He outgrew his workshop and in 1846 moved the business to Guise, creating a foundry with about 20 employees. But that was only the start.

A few years earlier he discovered ‘Foureierism’ – the concept of social science put forward by Charles Fourier. The concept profoundly affected him. As his business grew substantially, he used some of his new found wealth to fund a project to start a colony in Texas. It was based on Fourier’s teaching – that wealth and prosperity should be shared with the labourers, social reform that didn’t please the French ruling classes. 150 colonists left France – teachers, doctors and intellectuals. There was not a single agriculturist among them to help start the new colony.

Palace for the people

The project in Texas was an abject disaster. Many of the colonists died and the colony was abandoned. Godin lost a small fortune  and returned to France.

However, he didn’t give up on his dreams but instead moved them to France. In 1857 he bought a large piece of land in Guise. On it he created a workers ‘paradise’ – a residential building to house 1500 people – factory workers, employees and their families. The design of the building was based on the palace of Versailles. Residency was voluntary, and by 1870 almost 1000 people lived in the palace. There wasn’t a better, bigger apartment for the bosses or the administration workers, everyone was housed according to their needs, not their position.

On site was a laundrette, swimming pool, stores and a 600 seat theatre. It was essentially a small town within a town. And it was within easy walking distance of Godin’s now huge factory. He also built schools for workers children and even designed a wooden platform to make the pool suitable for children.

Godin called it a social palace.

Godin’s vision

Godin set a 10 hour working day when the norm at the time was 13-15 hours. And gave his workers Sunday off though there was no church in his town.

Workers generally earned around 150 francs per month and their rent was just 8-12 francs, a fraction of their wages leaving them more money to spend on other things.

He set up a workers union.The workers decided the rules in the factory via a series of committees.

The accommodation was spacious and hygienic, though it has to be said, some residents likened it to a prison.

It seemed like utopia.

But when he died in 1888 having tragically lost his only son just 15 days before, the running of the factory fell to the committees. Without his influence, it all fell apart as infighting and disagreement took over. Ultimately the experiment failed without him.

The German army occupied the site from 1914 to November 1918. They turned the theatre into a jail, the central palace became military hospital and they destroyed some of the buildings.

What can you see now?

The Utopia Project began in 2002 to restore the palace and remaining buildings. It is a triumph. You can tour some of the apartments, including Godin’s own apartment. Take a guided tour, visit the theatre (which has an active schedule of events), school and pool and discover the extraordinary story of a man of vision. There is a permanent exhibition as well as temporary exhibitions. Take a break in the lovely cafe on site (with a pretty garden terrace). And don’t miss the shop where you can buy Godin products – the famous fires, plus kitchen products including wonderfully heavy iron pans. The town of Guise is worth a detour, pretty little streets and a ruined castle you can visit.

Almost 200 years after it’s creation, the Familistère is mind boggling both in its architecture, and as a concept that was way ahead of its time.

Read more about what to see and do in Aisne in the free to read: The Good Life France Magazine 

Details of the visit at: familistere.com/fr

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

Janine Marsh is Author of My Good Life in France: In Pursuit of the Rural Dream,  My Four Seasons in France: A Year of the Good Life and Toujours la France: Living the Dream in Rural France all available as ebook, print & audio, on Amazon everywhere & all good bookshops online. Her new book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle, is out in October 2023 – a look at the French way of life.

All rights reserved. This article is the property of thegoodlifefrance.com and may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

The post The fascinating Familistère Guise: A French social palace appeared first on The Good Life France.

The department of Aisne in Picardy is the ancient cradle of France. Its capital Laon was once also the capital of France, and it is the only place in the world where Champagne is produced – outside of Champagne. Discover a land brimming with historic cities, glorious countryside, picturesque villages and monumental cultural sites…

Laon a historic city

The great French writer Victor Hugo once said, “everything is beautiful in Laon.” Almost 200 years after his visit, he would recognise its Cathedral and winding streets of ancient buildings – a whopping 84 listed monuments – and surely feel the same way.

This ancient city with its ramparts and stone gateways was the capital of France from the 8^th to 10^th centuries when Paris was still a village. Perched on a hill at 180m high, the site is perfect for defence, and Queen Berthe au Grand Pied (the unlikely named Bertha of the Big Feet), mother of the great Charlemagne, made Laon her seat of government. It was only when Hugues Capet was made King in 987, that Paris became the capital. Laon though, remained an important religious city and a centre of learning.

The 800 year old cathedral of Notre Dame, a Gothic masterpiece, dominates the upper town. Flanked by two magnificent turreted towers, from which large stone oxen peer. They are a nod to the sturdy beasts who dragged the stones to build it and the local legend that when an exhausted oxen fell to the ground, a white ox was sent by God to help carry the stones. The façade is intricately carved and inside there are beautiful 13^th century stained glass windows. The sound of monks chanting creates a spiritual atmosphere.

What to see in Laon

The streets around the Cathedral are lined with old buildings, all encompassed within the medieval ramparts from which there are wonderful views over the town below and the countryside. On clear days you can see as far as the plain of neighbouring Champagne.

Look closely at some of the buildings and you’ll notice fossils and shells embedded in the walls. They’re left over from the time when the area was under a tropical sea – some 65 million years ago. And many of the buildings are listed historic monuments including the tourist office which is located in a building dating to 1167 and the underground passages of the Citadel. There is a legend that at the 16th century Cour du Change, formerly known as the Hotellerie du Dauphin in rue Sérurier, King Louis XIII stayed on a stormy night in 1638. He and his wife Anne of Austria had prayed for children but to no avail. However that night, Louis XIV was conceived. Just don’t check the dates too carefully, you might see that there are 13 months between the night Louis XIII stayed and Louis XIV’s birth!

Laon is also where Abelard and Heloise met – the Romeo and Juliet of France. It was a tragic love story, the student, Heloise falling for the teacher, marrying in secret and having a baby against the wishes of her uncle/guardian. The lovers were torn apart and she was sent to an abbey whilst he was castrated on the orders of Heloise’ uncle. You’ll spot their likeness in the fabulous street art that illuminates the town.

You can book guided tours at the town hall to discover Laon’s many secrets and charms. Tourisme-paysdelaon.com

Familistère of Guise – a most unusual Museum

Guise was once an important border town ruled by the powerful Dukes of Guise. Now it is a rather sleepy place with pretty streets, a ruined castle and superbly restored fortified church. But its most famous attraction is the monumental Familistère – a ‘social palace.’

It was created by Jean-Baptiste André Godin, founder of the famous Godin stoves company.  He was born in 1817 in Aisne, the son of a locksmith and left school at the age of 11. At 17 he moved to Paris, taught himself architecture. In 1840 he returned to Aisne and began manufacturing a cast-iron heating-stove which he had designed. To this day they are known as Godins in France and an astonishing number of them have survived, still working to this day – I have one myself!

Godin made a fortune from his stoves and at its height his factory in Guise employed almost a thousand workers. In 1856, moved by the plight of workers living conditions, Godin started to build the Familistère, a place where his employees and their families could live. It also had a nursery, school, laundrette, shops, 600-seat theatre and swimming pool. The monumental residential building was based on the Palace of Versailles with apartments for up to 900 people. It was essentially a small town, and all within easy walking distance of the huge factory. He called it a social palace.

The social palace

Around 75% of the workforce lived there with their families. He paid workers well, around 150 francs per month and their rent was just 8-12 francs. He set a 10 hour working day when the norm at the time was 13-15 hours. And gave his workers Sunday off. He set up a workers union who decided the rules in the factory via a series of committees.

It seemed like utopia… But when he died in 1888 having lost his only son just 15 days before, the running of the factory fell to the committees and without his influence it all fell apart as infighting and disagreement took over.

The German army occupied the site from 1914 to November 1918. They turned the theatre into a jail, the central palace became military hospital and they destroyed some of the buildings.

The Utopia Project began in 2002 to restore the palace and remaining buildings. It is a triumph. You can tour an apartment, have a guided tour, visit the theatre and pool and discover this extraordinary tale. There’s a cafe on site and a great shop where you can buy Godin products. Familistere.com

Saint-Quentin – Art Deco dazzler

Born in France, Art Deco began in 1908 – a merging of art of various influences: antiquity, cubism, the arts of Africa and the Far East.

Saint-Quentin has been through a lot. Founded by the Romans, it was a major medieval trading centre. It’s been invaded, conquered, besieged and finally all but destroyed during World War I – the Great War as the French call it. Rebuilt in the 1920s it has many Art Deco buildings including the extraordinary railway station where trains ran from as early as 1850. It became a key site in the 1940s when Saint-Quentin once more come under foreign control and the city became the headquarters of the 2nd German army.

Visit now and you’ll find a hugely cultural city with 9 museums and extraordinary buildings.

The station buffet, a listed historical monument, is pure Art Deco with walls and furniture covered in soft silver and glistening gold mosaics with an accent of bright red, featuring flowers and Normandy ocean liner window design. From the station it’s a short walk across the canal to the town. Built in 1801, it was the first canal north of Paris and inaugurated by Napoleon in recognition of its importance to France.

In the city, the Art Deco vibe is everywhere. There are some 3000 buildings that feature the Art Deco style of which 300 are classified as Historic Monuments. This includes the tourist office where you can book an audio guide and route map.

Museum of Beaux-Arts Saint-Quentin

Whatever you do don’t miss the Musée des Beaux-Arts Antoine Lécuyer which in my opinion is the city’s star. There is a superb collection of pastels by Maurice Quentin de la Tour, known as the ‘King of the Pastels’, an artist who ‘looked into the souls’ of his subjects and then captured their likeness with pastels in a way never seen before or since. Sadly not all the pastels were out when I visited but enough for me to be able to be completely amazed. Destination-saintquentin.fr

4 Must-sees in Aisne

Champagne vineyards in Picardy!

Chateau-Thierry in Aisne is the only place in the world outside of champagne where champagne is made. There are cellars dating to the 12th century and 400 vineyards producing Champagne. Visit Champagne Pannier for a tour and tasting and to stock up on their superb fizz. champagnepannier.com

Jardin Viel Maison

There are 16 sections to this magnificent private garden and it looks different in each of the four seasons. In the distance you can hear the town church bells, spot woodpeckers and wild birds and wander at will to enjoy the superb planting. Book in advance: jardins-vielsmaisons.net

Chemin des Dames

During World War I, the Chemin des Dames was a frontline position where violent fighting took place. There an underground quarry called ‘The Caverne du Dragon’ which was turned into army barracks. Today you can visit the galleries and see the chapel, first aid station, command post and No Man’s Land which movingly testify to the lives of the soldiers – both French and German – who fought and lived, sometimes even side by side, within the confines of the cavern and the countryside around. chemindesdames.fr

Chateau de Conde

Once home to the Princes of Conde and still lived in, this glorious castle was transformed into the Renaissance gem in the 16^th century for Louis de Bourbon. Sumptuously decorated with gorgeous gardens, it’s well worth a visit. chateaudeconde.com

Find out more on the Aisne tourism website: jaimelaisne.com

The post What to see and do in Aisne, Picardy appeared first on The Good Life France.

Amiens, the capital city of Picardy in northern France, is one for your bucket list. It has an age-old history and an incredible UNESCO listed Gothic Cathedral. There is also a remarkable “Green Venice” of ancient canals which criss cross the city, an extraordinary network of watery arteries dotted with hundreds of floating gardens. This is a city that has everything from outstanding nature to museums, culture, fabulous restaurants and a thriving cafe culture.

Water market

At the foot of Amiens Cathedral, the weekly Saturday morning market  takes place along the pretty Quai Belu in the old district of St Leu. With its higgledy piggledy colourful houses and multiple bars and restaurants, there is a festive atmosphere. The market on the water as it’s known, is where the market gardeners of Amiens ancient floating gardens known as hortillonnages sell their produce. It has been this way for centuries. Almost everything here comes from the hortillonnages or around the Somme area – from flowers and vegetables to wild herbs, cheese, honey, charcuterie and even beer.

Every third Saturday in June, the market gardeners arrive by traditional flat bottomed boat to sell their goods at the “Marche sur l’Eau” (water market). It’s a very colourful and merry event. The market traders dress in medieval costume in this homage to the days of old when market trade was conducted from boats. It’s a delicious day out and lots of fun.

Read more about the hortillonnages 

Art with a heart

Each year a unique Art & Garden festival takes place in the hortillonnages. You’ll discover an outdoor art gallery which spills into the water and on islands and riverbanks. From Spring to autumn some 50 artworks are installed on the islands and in the water. Some of them are monumental, all of them are extraordinary. The only way to see them all is by electric boat and you can take a self-guided tour. Follow the circuit, all the islands featured in the festival have pontoons where you can tie up your boat and then wander freely.

Entry is not at the same place as the normal guided boat tours of the hortillonnages. Instead make your way to the Port à Fumier, Camon district where you can to rent an electric boat for this fabulous excursion. Expect to spend around two and a half hours seeing all 50 artworks. There are parking spaces available and a welcome desk.

Read more about the Art and Garden Festivals

The biggest Cathedral in France

The first stone of Amiens Cathedral was laid in the year 1220. It is a masterpiece of Gothic art. At 145metres long and 70 metres wide at the transept – it is truly monumental and utterly divine. In the summer and December, the Cathedral is lit up with an astounding, free sound and light show.

Read more about the Cathedral and sound and light show

Jules Verne’s house

You mustn’t miss a visit to the home of one of France’s great writers. Jules Verne has inspired generations for more than 100 years with his tales of adventure, science and daring do. He wrote many of his stories right here in Amiens where he lived for 18 years. His 19^th century mansion has been restored to look just as it did in the late 1800s.

The rooms are filled with the reference books, geographical surveys and scientific reports which inspired his fantastic stories of journeys to the centre of the earth, the moon, under the sea and of course, around the world in 80 days. His study looks as if he’s just popped out. Wood panelled walls have the patina of history embedded in them. And there’s a fabulous collection of books, posters and even models – including a flying machine Verne imagined before aircraft were invented. It’s a fascinating visit with an audio guide.

amiens.fr/Maison-de-Jules-Verne

Island life

I stayed at a B&B in a cabin called Ch’Canard, on one of the floating gardens. It really is a little corner of paradise. Accessible by a tiny bridge over a ribbon of water, as soon as I closed the gate, it was like being on a remote island. You feel far away from the buzz of normal daily life.

In my beautiful 120 year old, tastefully decorated cabin for two I felt cossetted and cocooned, the star of my own Robinson Crusoe story. In the gorgeous gardens I crossed little wooden footbridges to explore dozens of islands all around me. Lilies floated on the calm canals. Roses and willows dipped down to the water’s edge. And the air was filled with the song of frogs and birds. I slept like a baby and can honestly say, it’s one of the most unusual, memorable and wonderful B&B’s I’ve ever stayed in. Details: Ch’Canard, Rivery

Where to eat out

There are plenty of cafés, bistros and fine restaurants in the city…

Locals love: Le Quai restaurant is hugely popular with the locals. In its prime position in Quai Belu overlooking the canal, with the Cathedral in the background, it’s great for coffee, a glass of wine or a cocktail, and even better for lunch or dinner. The staff are friendly. The menu is terrific with an emphasis on fresh regional products, classic French brasserie dishes, delicious salads and excellent vegetarian options. restaurant-lequai.fr

Riverside lunch: Overlooking the river Somme, at the entrance to the hortillonnages, Au Fil de l’Eau restaurant is lovely inside. But head outside on a sunny day. Seated on a terrace that makes you feel as if you’re in a treehouse, or in a flower filled garden courtyard, you’ll feel like you’ve escaped to the country. The menu is typically French with fresh and seasonal products. Local classics such as Ficelle Picarde, a savoury pancake topped with a creamy sauce are utterly delicious. Find them on Facebook

Wine and dine: Brasserie Jules is an institution in the city and a family favourite for Sunday lunch. Paris brasserie style with gleaming brass and plush red banquettes, Jules Verne (in a photo) seems to look on approvingly while artworks depicting scenes from his tales decorate the walls. The seafood platters here are legendary. Piled high with the freshest of shellfish, and the most succulent oysters. brasserie-jules.fr

Practical information

From Paris, Amiens is a little over an hour by train, and from Calais by car it’s around an hour and a half.

The tourist office is next to the Cathedral: amiens-tourisme.com

The post Amiens in Picardy makes for a fascinating visit appeared first on The Good Life France.

The first stone of Amiens Cathedral was laid in the year 1220. It is a monumental medieval masterpiece of Gothic art, 145 metres long and 70 metres wide at the transept.

Though there is plenty to see and do in Picardy’s historic capital, the number one visit is the Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage monument. It is the biggest cathedral in France and its soaring majesty can only really be appreciated in person.

A little over an hour and a half’s drive from Calais, the bustling and dynamic town has buckets of charm and plenty to see and do after you’ve explored the must-see Cathedral.

History of Amiens Cathedral

More than 800 years ago, builders toiled to create an incredible structure. They had no machinery. The enormous stones which fuelled its walls were dragged miles to the building site by man and beast. The creation of the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Amiens was an almost miraculous undertaking. Even more so when you consider it took jut 50 years to complete. The famous 19th century essayist John Ruskin venerated its beauty in his book The Bible of Amiens. It is quite simply breathtaking and to this day, a popular destination for pilgrims.

There are vaulted doorways, statues of kings, apostles and saints. 126 pillars support the soaring vaulted roof. The 16^th century wood carved choir stalls are magnificent, stained glass windows cast soft light on the ancient walls and floor. There are gargoyles galore, turrets and towers and listening to the majestic bells gives your goose bumps.

You can climb to the top, 307 narrow steps for stupendous views over the town. It’s well worth the effort though probably not for those with vertigo or claustrophobia.

Look out for the weeping angel, a wonderful statue which forms part of a 17th century mausoleum behind the High Altar. It was featured on a popular postcard sent by soldiers in the Somme during WWI.

Amiens Cathedral Sound and Light show

In summer and December, you’ll see Amiens Cathedral in a different light as the façade is lit up, an ingenious fete of engineering in itself. At night the exterior of the cathedral is smothered in a technicolour light performance in a show that makes audiences gasp.

The Chroma immersive night-time light show at the UNESCO listed Gothic Cathedral of Amiens, the biggest in France, is exquisite.

This free 50 minute show runs throughout the summer, as well as in December during the Christmas market, and is an absolute must-see. State of the art projection technology creates a truly magical experience under a night sky. As dusk falls, take your place in the cobbled Cathedral square and prepare to be amazed by a whirlwind of sound and light which bring the magnificently encrusted façade and sculptures to life. Get there at least 15 minutes before to be sure of a good spot for the best views.

Discover more of Amiens

Enjoy the colourful old district of Saint-Leu, perfect for relaxing at a café along the quayside of the River Somme which runs through the town, before discovering its masterful gems. Sitting here, watching the world go by, as the cathedral bells chime, is one of life’s true pleasures.

Another must-see is the authentically restored home of French writer and visionary, Jules Verne. He was inspired to write “Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea” whilst living here.

Explore the ancient floating gardens known as Hortillonages. In the shadow of the great Cathedral, this watery labyrinth has been cultivated since Roman times. Now maintained by market gardeners and locals, to this day they apply the same know-how of bygone days to make use of natural resources to water the land. You can explore this lush latticework of wetlands in a flat bottomed boat from April to October. And, if you ‘d like to taste the delicious produce, head to the Saint-Leu district on Saturdays to buy direct at the water market. Read more about the Hortillonages

Practical information

A train station in the centre of Amiens is within walking distance of the Cathedral.

There’s plenty of parking available in the town.

The Tourist Office is located next to the Cathedral in Place Notre Dame: visit-amiens.com

The post Amiens – the biggest Cathedral in France appeared first on The Good Life France.

It’s not often that I’m lost for words. Some say if there was a medal for talking, I’d win gold. But, when I went to Amiens and discovered les hortillonnages, I was dumbstruck. How had I visited before and missed this incredible natural treasure of the city? Apparently many people miss it, but if you go, definitely make time to visit this absolute jewel of northern France.

The Floating Gardens of Amiens

A short walk from the centre of this busy city, following the line of the river which runs along the quay of the historic Saint Leu district, brings you to Les Hortillonnages. A vast patchwork of market and floral gardens, they cover a whopping 1.6 square miles and are criss-crossed by more than 40 miles of small canals. And the best bit is – you can hop in a boat and take a guided tour. Or hire a boat and float around. Explore some of the islands. Spot wildlife and soak up the very special ambience of these ancient waterways formed by the Somme River and their astonishing floating islands.

When King Louis XI visited Amiens in the 15th century he called it “my little Venice” referring to its watery arteries. And it’s easy to see why. The hortillonnages are an oasis of wild nature. Tamed patches are full of flowers, small boats are the preferred form of transport to get to the quirky buildings and beautiful huts.

Les Hortillonnages

Hortillonnages is not a word you’ll come across often and possibly not outside of Amiens. And me telling you that it means market gardens won’t in any way convey just how utterly amazing they are. From the middle ages, the hortillonnages have made Amiens famous throughout France. An enormous network of ancient canals peppered with island gardens. They lie in the shadow of the world famous Cathedral, right on the edge of the city.

It’s incredible to find that one moment you’re in a teeming metropolis and the next in tranquil waters. Dragon flies, butterflies and birds flit about, water lilies bob on the surface. There are still around ten professional gardeners growing vegetables and fruit here. They sell their produce at the weekly market in the medieval St Leu district, alongside the river. Most of the gardens are worked by keen owners, handed down through families for generations.

Market gardens of the Middle Ages

The market gardens go way back in time, probably to the days of the Romans. But it was in the middle ages that gardeners started to plant the floating gardens and grow vegetables. It’s said that the great Cathedral of Amiens was built on a field once used to grow artichokes, donated by gardeners in the 13th century to the church.

For centuries, market gardeners grew vegetables here. They piled their punts high with fresh produce and poled their way to the market in Saint Leu. The market is still there, every Saturday morning, stalls laid out along the waters edge, but the goods arrive by road now.

The little wooden chalets where the growers lived have been replaced by weekend huts and bungalows. There are just a handful of commercial growers left, known as hortillons. The rest of the islands are filled with flowers. It’s very beautiful and very tranquil. It’s easy to spend a few hours here daydreaming and listening to the birds sing, bees buzz and frogs croak.

Once a year, in June, the Town Festival takes place. Locals dress in traditional costume and row their boats up the Somme, loaded with fruit and veg, to the market in Saint Leu.

Visit Les Hortillonages

You can explore this lush mosaic of wetlands in an eco-friendly electric flat bottomed boat from April to October. Take a guided tour from Boulevard Beauvillé, which is necessary as you could easily get lost on this watery labyrinth. www.hortillonnages-amiens.fr

Or hire a boat from the other side of the water, it’s a long walk or a short drive to the departure point at Port à Fumier, rue Roger Allou, Camon district.

Each year a unique Art & Garden festival takes place in the hortillonnages – an outdoor art gallery which spills into the water and on islands and riverbanks. From June to October some 50 artworks are installed on the islands and in the water, some of them monumental, all of them extraordinary.

The only way to see them all is by electric boat and you can take a self-guided tour. Follow the circuit, all the islands featured in the festival have pontoons where you can tie up your boat and then wander freely. Read more about the Art & Garden Festival of Amiens

And, if you ‘d like to taste the delicious produce, head to the Saint-Leu district on Saturdays to buy direct at the water market.

Amiens Tourist Office; UKFranceFR

The post Les Hortillonnages, Amiens appeared first on The Good Life France.

Picardy is a department in the Hauts-de-France region (formerly Nord-Pas-de-Calais and Picardy) which borders Paris. It’s one of those places that visitors often leave off the radar, however it offers a huge variety of things to do from gorgeous beaches, captivating castles, historic cities, Champagne vineyards (yes Champagne vineyards that aren’t in Champagne!) and more…

Here’s what we think are 15 of the best things to do in Picardy…

Amiens cathedral

Celebrating its 800th year in 2020, the great Gothic Cathedral of Amiens is awe-inspiring. By day the Cathedral attracts pilgrims and tourists eager to see its vast interior. Filled with statues and frescoes, soaring vaulted ceiling, it has a majestic presence, witness to eight centuries of history. At night though, it’s an altogether different place. The exterior of the cathedral is smothered in a technicolour light performance in a show that makes audiences gasp in wonder. This free 50 minute show runs throughout the summer. It’s also held in December during the Christmas market, and is an absolute must-see.

Watch a sunset in the Bay of Somme

The Somme Bay is ranked among the most beautiful bays in the world, It’s a sanctuary for seals  and a stopover for migratory birds. With an ever-changing landscape as the tides ebb and flow, it’s an exceptional landscape on 4500 hectares. It’s a great place for walking or cycling and perfect for lovers of sunsets which are spectacular here.

Saint- Valery-sur-Somme

At the mouth of the Baie de Somme, Saint-Valery-sur-Somme has grand seafront villas once rented out by luminaries including Victor Hugo, Edgar Degas and Alfred Sisley. There’s a colourful fishermen’s quarter, cobbled streets lined with boutiques bars and galleries, and a charming Sunday morning market. Don’t miss a ride on the vintage steam train which goes all the way round the bay. Read more about Saint-Valery-sur-Somme

Pierrefonds Castle

The great chateau of Pierrefonds was built at the end of the 14th century by Duke Louis of Orleans. After being dismantled in the 17th century it was in ruins when Napoleon III decided to entrust the reconstruction to the architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc (Notre-Dame Paris). His restoration of this medieval castle is simply astonishing. The castle was used as the setting for Camelot in the BBC series Merlin – it really is magical.

Gerberoy

A classified “plus beaux village de France”, officially one of the prettiest villages, Gerberoy has oodles of charm. Think cobbled streets, half-timbered buildings dripping with roses and wonderful views over the lush countryside. Discover more about gorgeous Gerberoy

St Quentin

Saint-Quentin is listed town of Art and History and famous for its art deco style. There are about 3,000 art deco facades in Saint-Quentin including the Post Office with its grand hall, Le Carillon Cinema, the lanterns of the Pont d’Isle and the Conservatoire de Musique et de Théâtre. On Wednesday and Saturday mornings, the city centre market adds a buzz to the day and a chance to shop for scrumptious French delicacies and local produce.

Les Hortillonnages

The hortillonnages of Amiens are floating market gardens. They’ve been cultivated since the Middle Ages (it’s thought as early as the 13^th century) on a maze of canals, on the edge of the city. The best way to experience this historic heritage site is with a guided electric (environmentally friendly) boat tour (from April to October). It’s incredible to see the city’s Cathedral spire in the background while you spot dragon flies, wild birds and even herons on the tranquil waterways. The lush, flower filled island gardens reflect a close relationship between man and nature and make for a unique nature escape right in the heart of the metropolis. From spring to autumn a fabulous Arts and Garden festival is held in the Hortillonnages.

Marquenterre

To the north of the Somme bay lie miles of sandy beaches and dunes. And here is where you will find the 200-hectare Marquenterre park. Some 300 species of migrating birds stop over or nest here. Nature lovers can rent binoculars and set off on a 7km hike, taking in 12 hides with a guide at each to talk about the birds.

Asterix Park

Dedicated to the famous comic book characters Astérix and Obélix there are numerous attractions, entertainments and shows in the 50-hectare amusement park. It’s a brilliant day out for kids of all ages!

Champagne vineyards

Yes you did read that right. There are Champagne vineyards in Picardy. There are around 40 villages in the south of the region which are part of the world famous Champagne growing area. The vineyards of Chateau Thierry in the Marne Valley have been included in the Champagne production zone since 1936. More about the Champagne vineyards of Picardy

Beaches and seaside towns

The wild coast road running south from the bay as far as Le Tréport passes some wonderfully quaint seaside towns. You can’t help but feel that little seems to have changed since the end of the 19th century. Cayeux has a long pebble beach lined with brightly painted beach huts. The faded opulence of Ault’s 19th-century villas is overshadowed by the natural beauty of its towering white cliffs. At Mers-les-Bains the grand villas have been wonderfully renovated.

Thiepval

Parts of Picardy’s landscape is scarred by the memories of two world wars. Visiting the memorials, cemeteries and museums of the Somme is an intensely emotional experience. The Thiepval Memorial to the Missing, designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, is sombre and reflective and profoundly poignant. The Thiepval Memorial Museum next door provides an excellent overview of the battles that took place in the Somme.

A short drive away, the Lochnagar Crater, near the village of La Boiselle, was created by a large mine placed beneath the German front lines on the first day of the Battle of the Somme. It created an enormous crater 21m deep, 100m wide. Today it is a brutal reminder of the scale and the horror of war, the largest crater ever made by man in anger.

Laon

The former capital of France (when Paris was still a village), Laon’s old town is set on a steep hill with ramparts and ancient gateways. It’s colourful cobbled streets are lined with shops, bars and bistros. Laon has a beautiful 12^th century Cathedral. And, from the ramparts there are wonderful views over the surrounding countryside. On a clear day you can see into neighbouring Champagne.

Compiègne

Compiègne is perhaps best known for being the town where the armistice was signed. The historic act took place in a train carriage in the forest, ending World War I on November 11, 1918. A replica now resides in the Compiègne Armistice Museum. The city is dominated by an immense palace built for Louis X. It was one of three seats of royal government (Versailles and Fontainbleau were the other two). Now this vast building houses the National Car Museum, Museum of the Second Empire and historic royal apartments including Marie-Antoinette’s apartment. chateaudecompiegne.fr

Chateau de Chantilly

The stunning chateau of Chantilly is one of the most impressive royal homes in France. Today it houses an immense collection of artwork and has what surely must be some of the most beautiful stables in the world. Gorgeous gardens, restaurants serving, of course, Chantily cream with dessert and fabulously furnished rooms make this an absolute must-see.

Read more about Chantilly here.

The post 15 best things to do in Picardy appeared first on The Good Life France.

If you thought Champagne only comes from Champagne – think again. There are Champagne vineyards in Picardy!

It might surprise you to learn that the vineyards of Château-Thierry in the Aisne department of Picardy, Hauts-de-France account for a whopping 10% of AOC Champagne production…

Wines and Champagne of Picardy

The Aisne department is between Paris and Reims. Most people associate the area with cider, it’s on the doorstep of Normandy. Or perhaps beer as it borders Pas de Calais and the Nord departments. The Aisne department is not known for its wine production. In fact most people are completely unaware that the area has a rich history of wine making going back centuries.

There are around 40 villages in the south of the region which are part of the world famous Champagne growing area. The vineyards of Chateau Thierry in the Marne Valley have been included in the Champagne production zone since 1936. Just 45 minutes from Champagne capital Reims, historically they were part of Champagne until the French Revolution. And if you’re a fan of fizz, it’s a short detour to the vineyards from the nearby major attractions such as departmental capital Laon perched on a hill with a Gothic Cathedral or Compiègne.

Laon, once the capital of France

Laon was for a time, the capital of France before King Hugues Capet chose Paris in 987 AD. Its narrow cobbled alleyways house an incredible 84 listed monuments. 100 metres up, in an area that’s notoriously flat, you can see why it was coveted by the great and the good (as well as the not so good). Fortified by the Romans, the capital of the Carolingian Kings, it fell under English rule in the 100 Years War, was laid siege to and conquered several times.

Nowadays it’s a beautiful old city. Adjoining the 12^th century cathedral is a 13th-century cloister. The nearby Episcopal Palace (partly 13th century) now houses law courts and has a 12th-century chapel. On the cathedral’s other side lies a 13th-century abbey with a large underground Gothic hall, now a hospital. The Museum of Laon has a collection of Roman and medieval jewellery. The streets are pretty and there are loads of charming cafés and restaurants.

Champagne tasting and touring in Picardy

Take a tour in English at the house of Champagne Pannier where the 2km cellars in the quarry in which the Champagne is matured, date back to the 12th century, and of course a tasting is included. You’ll discover an elegant range, with a style affirmed by the dominant presence of black grapes, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, accompanied by a large proportion of Chardonnay.

In nearby Barzy-sur-Marne, Champagne Leveque Dehan produce Champagne on slopes that have been cultivated since the 13th century. They also offer tours and tastings in English.

Champagne Alain Mercier et Fils produce 6 main Champagnes and offer a great tasting tour. Beware, the fizz is hard to resist here!

At Champagne Fallet-Dart the long line of family winegrowers have been cultivating grapes since 1610. They have 45 acres of vines and produce authentic and distinguished champagnes that have won several awards.

Find out more about the Champagne route in Picardy: www.lesportesdelachampagne.com

Claim my free road trip book to discover the best of the Hauts de France region from beautiful beaches to historic cities, medieval villages and glorious castles: www.french-weekendbreaks.co.uk

Places to visit nearby

Chateau de Chantilly – historic and exquisite as well as the home of Chantilly cream!
Gerberoy – officially one of the prettiest villages in France
The Art and Gardens Festival of Amiens held annually from June to October on the astonishing ancient waterways of Amiens

The post The Champagne vineyards of Picardy appeared first on The Good Life France.

Though France has plenty of Chateaux that impress, wow and take your breath away – some are more special than others. The Chateau de Chantilly in Picardy, a short journey from the centre of Paris, is one of them…

Potted history of the Chateau of Chantilly

Castles have stood for many centuries on the site where the current Chateau de Chantilly stands today. Surrounded by lakes and forests, it’s surprising to know that it’s just 55km from the centre of Paris. Several prominent families have been the owners including Constable Anne de Montmorency, companion to Francois I, the Renaissance King of France, creator of the Chateau de Chambord. Montmorency, like many nobles of the day, followed the King’s Renaissance style and had the medieval castle updated, constructing the Petit Chateau, today the oldest part of the castle.

Eventually it passed to Charlotte de Montmorency, wife of Henri II de Bourbon, Prince of Condé. Their son, Louis II de Bourbon, known as ‘the Grand Condé’, organised a courtly life in Chantilly that rivalled Versailles, with magnificent balls and huge fireworks displays. The dinners he held were legendary. In 1671 he organised a three-day extravaganza to honour Louis XIV managed by his steward Francois Vatel. When a delivery failed to arrive, the second disaster during the feast, the overwrought steward committed suicide thereby creating one of the best known dinners in French history.

Grand stables and updates

The Great Stables were built in 1719 for the hunt-loving Duke de Bourbon. The town of Chantilly got an upgrade by the same architect. The Grand Chateau was destroyed in 1799. The last of the Bourbon-Condé family was beheaded on the orders of Napoleon Bonaparte in 1804 and the castle passed to Henri d’Orleans, Duke d’Aumale and son of King Louis-Philippe in 1830.

He rebuilt the Grand Chateau in 1857 to house his vast collection of art and treasures. He was known to the be greatest collector of his time. When he died he left the entire domaine to the State. The Condé museum opened to the public in 1898. And little has changed since then. And that makes this Chateau an absolute treasure.

Inside the Chateau of Chantilly

Some of the world’s great paintings can be seen at Chantilly from works by Botticelli to Raphael, Van Dyke and Watteau, Delacroix and Titian. Royal portraiture, Italian, Dutch, French and Renaissance paintings vie for attention. Wonderful stained glass, tapestries and books including a copy of the famous Tres Riches Heures of Jean, Duc de Berry are held here (though you can’t see this precious, fragile book but a digital version is available).

Visit the apartment of the Duke and his wife, filled with paintings, furnishings and artefacts. It’s incredible to think that if the Duke, who died in 1897, was to return he would recognise the rooms, the places where the paintings are hung, the furniture, his favourite reading chair. The Chateau is a snapshot of a long gone time, exquisitely and sumptuously decorated and beautifully preserved.

In Vatel’s former kitchens there is now a restaurant. Another restaurant is open in the grounds during spring to autumn months. At both you can try the famous Chantilly cream, said to have been invented in the castle kitchens. Take it from me – it tastes better there than anywhere!

The Gardens of Chantilly

The gardens cover a stonking 115 hectares. Several themes can be seen from the French-style garden created by Andre Le Notre in the 17th century to the Anglo-Chinese Garden in the 18th century and the English Garden in the 19th century. There are statues and grottoes, lakes and a hamlet reminiscent of Marie Antoinette’s hamlet at Versailles. In fact it’s claimed this is what inspired the queen. It’s a brilliant garden for strolling with shaded walkways and secret paths.

You can take a boat ride, see peacocks, take a Segway or electric cart ride and watch the horses exercising.

The Great Stables of Chantilly

The Great Stables of Chantilly are mind-bogglingly beautiful. They are a chateau in their own right with stunning architectural details. Today the building houses the Museum of the Horse – surely the horse-loving Duke de Bourbon would have approved. Paintings, artwork, books and horse paraphernalia fill the rooms.

Visit the stables and meet the horses in their seriously impressive rooms. Equestrian shows are held year round. Combining poetry, acrobatics and humour, the horse team put on an awe-inspiring dressage display beneath a 28 metre high majestic dome in the Great Stables. It is a magnificent performance of horsemanship and the bond between man and horse.

I’d recommend you allow a whole day for the visit – there’s a lot to fall in love with.

How to get to the Chateau Chantilly from Paris

The Chateau de Chantilly is in the department of Picardy, region Hauts-de-France. From Gare du Nord take an overland regional train to Chantilly-Gouvieux. It takes a little over 20 minutes. From here it’s a 25-minute stroll to the château through the pretty town. Or you can take the no. 15 bus towards Senlis and get off at the “Chantilly, église Notre-Dame” stop or wait for the free, but infrequent shuttle bus DUC (Cantilian Urban Service). The bus stop is outside the station. Taxis take about 5 minutes and you can also hire bikes at the station. Check the Chateau de Chantilly website (below) for access details year round.

Top tip: pick up a round trip ticket from Gare du Nord covering travel and entry to all of Chantilly’s attractions at a special price. At Gare du Nord purchase the “Pack TER Domaine de Chantilly” ticket.

Parking is available at the castle.

More details at: www.domainechantilly.com and discover more things to do in the area with www.french-weekendbreaks.co.uk

Get my free road trip book to discover the best of the Hauts de France region from beautiful beaches to historic cities, medieval villages and glorious castles: www.french-weekendbreaks.co.uk/motorbike-touring-france

The post Guide to the Chateau de Chantilly appeared first on The Good Life France.

A classified “plus beaux village de France”, officially one of the prettiest villages, Gerberoy has oodles of charm. Think cobbled streets, half-timbered buildings dripping with roses and wonderful views over the lush countryside.

Gerberoy is in the Oise department, Picardy, northern France, on the border of Seine-Maritime, Normandy. It’s one of the smallest towns in France, but there’s a surprising amount to see and do in Gerberoy.

History of Gerberoy

At least 1,000 years old, Gerberoy has had a dramatic past. It was an important stronghold due to its elevated position and has survived multiple sieges and assaults over the centuries. It was destroyed and rebuilt several times and from the middle ages was largely abandoned. A sleeping beauty, it was hardly known until in the early 20^th century, painter Henri Le Sidaner arrived. He was an artist of the so-called “Intimist movement”. Born in Mauritius in 1862, his family moved to Dunkirk and Le Sidaner studied art at the Etaples art colony. His paintings captured intimate moments of domestic interiors or gardens. And Gerberoy, which was recommended to him by his friend, the sculptor Rodin, was the perfect inspiration for his paintbrush. With its 17th and 18th century houses and winding cobbled streets – it’s like a time warp town.

What to see and do in Gerberoy

Gerberoy is not a big village, which makes it very easy to wander it’s enchanting streets and soak up the atmosphere.

It’s romantic, chocolate box lid pretty and very tranquil. Though in peak visitor months it can get quite busy as so many are drawn to its beauty.

One of the big lures is the garden of artist Henri Le Sidaner (photo above). The artist moved there in 1901 and created an Italianate style garden on a hilly piece of land which he painted over and over. The gardens have been kept true to his vision, with roses and walkways and fabulous views over the rooftops of Gerberoy.

I visited in September and pretty much had the whole place to myself. There are around 100 residents at that time of the year, very few tourists – it’s a good time to go!

A town made for smelling the roses

But Le Sidaner’s legacy stretches further. He proposed to the residents that everyone should plant climbing roses. He adored flowers and loved to capture the beauty of rose blooms. The local people loved his idea, it brought colour to the pretty village. And, eventually it became an official decree which required residents to grow roses! In 1928, the first Fete des Roses was held and it’s taken place every year since on the third Sunday of June bringing thousands of visitors to this tiny town.

Roses were still blooming when I visited, as well as many other plants. Walls were dripping with flowers of all kinds in bloom, there were magnificent hydrangeas (the French call them Hortensia) seemingly outside every home which lined the cobbled streets. It was a wonderfully warm and sunny day, lazy bees buzzed and the scent of summer was still strong.

Arts, crafts and monuments

Gardeners and lovers of beauty will also adore Le Jardin des Ifs, a listed Jardin Remarquable with an incredible topiary yew garden. You can even sit inside a 100 year old yew tree which was awarded National Tree of the Year in France, in 2018! The gardens are part of “Le Vidame” a 16^th century residence once favoured by important local officials. It’s the only historic house open to the public in Gerberoy as it’s also a tea salon and gorgeous restaurant (open May to October and reservation is recommended). Don’t miss the chance to try Le P’tit Gerberoy, a cheese made with candied roses by renowned cheese maker Julien Planchon.

In the town, browse tiny art galleries and watch artists at work like Ako, a glass artist who makes exquisite jewellery right before your eyes, wielding his blow torch like a paintbrush. I’ve seen a lot of glass jewellery but never quite like this. He somehow captures sunlight within his creations. (You can see him creating his magic in the video below which shows some of the beautiful sites of the region).

There are several tea rooms and restaurants to tempt you to take a refreshing break in Gerberoy. Plus a pretty 11^th century church and a small museum in the town hall.  It’s easy to spend a relaxed day here with a delicious lunch, amble those pretty streets and enjoy the ambiance. A half day would cover the sites if you don’t linger (which would be a shame!).

Gerberoy tourism; www.oisetourisme.com.

Get my free road trip book to discover the best of the Hauts de France region from beautiful beaches to historic cities, medieval villages and glorious castles: www.french-weekendbreaks.co.uk

The post What to see and do in Gerberoy, Picardy appeared first on The Good Life France.

From the middle ages, Amiens in Picardy, northern France, has been famous for its hortillonnages. This is the name given to the market gardens which line the network of nine waterways which run through the city.

These watery arteries give Amiens a unique atmosphere. You really have a feeling that you are in the most beautiful countryside right in the centre of a busy metropolis. There’s a weekly market garden with produce from the famous market gardens, major annual festivals and you can take boat rides to discover this most beautiful area. Not to be missed is the summer Art & Garden Festival. It’s an extraordinary concept, you take a boat ride to discover artworks on the many islands of the hortillonnages and in the water…

Amiens Art & Gardens Festival

The hortillonnages are a major heritage site. Marshland gardens on man-made islands and on the land which lines the waterways and have been cultivated for centuries. In fact the gardens are so old that no one knows when they began. But, legend has it that when the Cathedral was built in the 13^th century, it was on a field of artichokes managed by the gardeners of the hortillonnages.

These days there are few commercial producers left in the area but the gardens alongside the waterways and on hundreds of tiny islands are managed by private owners and the town.

Every year the international garden festival sees major artworks by young artists from around France and the world. They set up their installations in the water and on the islands. You can visit them with a guided tour or self-guided. Tours are by electric boats, designed to be gentle on the environment which is critical to the festival’s ethos. There are pontoons on the islands where you can tie your boat up and disembark. Wander the islands, see the artworks, simply sit and enjoy the tranquil ambiance, the wild birds and wildlife.

Art with a heart

You don’t feel as if you’re in a city at all in the hortillonages. And, the International Garden Festival is one of the most beautiful garden festivals I’ve ever been to. Unique, inspirational and quite magnificent but somehow intimate and personal as you’re able to walk right up to the installations and see them from every angle. Or sail round them.

The ethos is very much on the concept of recycling and sustainability. A wall made from recycled fizzy drink cans, a water collecting installation made from recycled wine bottles. There’s even a green house made from recycled plastic bottles. I loved the re-purposed phone box in which you can listen to aquatic wild life from beetles to plants making the sound of photosynthetisation. Quirky, fascinating and brilliantly done, and one of a kind. It’s an inspirational garden festival, thought provoking and witty. You’ll go home with loads of ideas for how to adapt your own garden to become more eco friendly.

The International Art & Gardens Festival of Amiens runs from June to 20 October each year. Don’t miss it, in a city with loads to see and do, it’s one of the best things to do in Amiens.

Head to the Port à Fumier, Camon, a district of Amiens, to rent boats for this fabulous excursion. Expect to spend around two and a half hours seeing all 50 artworks. There are parking spaces available and a welcome desk.

Details: www.artetjardins-hdf.com/en/ and for what to do in Amiens see: www.visit-amiens.com/

The post Art and Gardens Festival Amiens appeared first on The Good Life France.