Quirky – The Good Life France https://thegoodlifefrance.com Everything you ever wanted to know about france and more Sun, 27 Feb 2022 12:42:03 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://i0.wp.com/thegoodlifefrance.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/cropped-Flag.jpg?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Quirky – The Good Life France https://thegoodlifefrance.com 32 32 69664077 Way to take a tour of Paris in a 2CV https://thegoodlifefrance.com/way-to-take-a-tour-of-paris-in-a-2cv/ Thu, 05 Jul 2018 07:38:48 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=69961 They’re the iconic car of France, quirky and with bundles of character – the 2CV, which stands for 2 deux chevaux (2 horse power), never seems to lose its popularity. Over the years it has picked up a few nicknames including the “umbrella on wheels”, the “ugly duckling” and “tin snail”. 2CVs are no longer …

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They’re the iconic car of France, quirky and with bundles of character – the 2CV, which stands for 2 deux chevaux (2 horse power), never seems to lose its popularity.

Over the years it has picked up a few nicknames including the “umbrella on wheels”, the “ugly duckling” and “tin snail”.

2CVs are no longer made by Citroen who retired the line after 42 years of production in 1990. Nevertheless they’ve remained a firm favourite with many and in Paris there are several companies offering a tour of the city’s landmarks via this legendary car.

Paris loves its 2CVs

I had my first 2CV ride recently when, after a delicious lunch at the lovely art deco Les Jalles restaurant near the Paris Opera House, my 2CV and driver arrived to take me for a ride round the capital.

The 2CV can take five people if they’re not too big and don’t mind being a bit squashed in the back, but four is more comfortable.

If you take a ride in one of these old cars – be prepared for some attention. Everywhere we went, people turned to stare. They’re noisy cars for a start – you can hear them coming a mile off. And they’re quite slow. There’s no nipping round corners or weaving deftly in and out of traffic in these old jalopies. They would be the worst get away car ever.

2CVs bring out the happy in their passengers!

But – they make everyone smile and they are a magnet for tourists with cameras. There must be dozens of photos of me sitting in the passenger seat next to my lovely driver with a big smile on my face, because not only do they make onlookers grin, they bring out the happy in their passengers too!

We went past the very posh Ritz Paris hotel, once home to Coco Chanel. The uber smart, white coated doormen were determined not to look our way even though we were chug chugging loudly near them. We passed the Louvre at a refined pace, lolloped aongside the ever fabulous Musee d’Orsay and saw several major landmarks with the lid off the car and in true 2CV style.

By the end I was waving back to the tourists who turned to laugh and wave at us, not quite like Meghan Markle on her wedding day but I did feel like a bit of a celeb!

I toured with en.parisauthentic.com/paris-day-tours and my lovely driver was very happy to answer all my crazy questions like “have you ever driven over the cobble stones of Paris with a basket of eggs on the back seat?”. It’s one of those myths that have endured with the 2CVs. They were designed to be able to carry farmer produce, including eggs (without damage).

“Every day” he said, with a smile. I think he was just taking me for a ride, but you never know…

Discover more great things to do in Paris: www.parisinfo.com 

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The fabric district of Paris | buttons, baubles and beads https://thegoodlifefrance.com/the-fabric-district-of-paris-buttons-baubles-and-beads/ Wed, 13 Jun 2018 06:41:32 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=69524 On a cold, crisp April morning, with numb fingers, and an almost feverish determination I searched for buttons. Muscling locals aside I pounced on another matching set. My fingers became blue, nose snuffly, but the button search went on and on, till every button had been turned and either discarded or bagged as a treasure …

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On a cold, crisp April morning, with numb fingers, and an almost feverish determination I searched for buttons. Muscling locals aside I pounced on another matching set. My fingers became blue, nose snuffly, but the button search went on and on, till every button had been turned and either discarded or bagged as a treasure found.

The assistant in the shop took the bulging bags and pointed me to the heater unit to thaw out whilst she weighed and tagged the buttons. I shivered and dripped but felt elated. Over 100 buttons – 10 buttons per euro, what a bargain. Never mind what I would do with 100 buttons, it was the elation of finding such a shop in the first place. Mes Folles De Soeurs (which translates as My crazy sisters”), is on a corner and easy to miss. The boxes are outside, full of buttons, notions and zips. When the rain comes, you get wet, but who cares when you are a button seeker, fabric fan or love material things.

The Paris fabric area Montmartre

The Paris fabric area in Montmartre, just below Sacre Coeur is a revelation. A whole district devoted to fabric, tassels, ribbons, bias-binding and buttons. And it’s been this way for many years. In 1882 Emile Zola published Au Bonheur des Dames (The Ladies Paradise) telling the tale of the rise  of a fabric empire in this part of Paris.

For me it’s like a candy store, the choice is endless. My pulse raced taking it all in. Boxes on the pavement and on the first floor were labelled “Coupons”, remnants at 1-3 euros. For patch-workers there are packs of little squares at discounts and buttons are sold by weight.

Don’t be shy, roll up your sleeves, rummage and dig deep for those bargains and savour the fabrics. Lawns, toiles, wools, jersey, cashmere, silk, gabardine, leather, they are all here and more. And where best to start than Marché Saint Pierre, six floors devoted to inspiring sew-ers, old-hands and those new to the craft.

Here you can compare textures, weights, colour, prices and come home with bolt upon bolt of fabrics or just a few remnants to make a cushion to remind you of Paris.

The ancient textile stores of Paris

In the late 1800s the store Marché Saint Pierre became the byword for fabric. Today, broad beamed wood floors and old cash registers in cubicles where you go to pay are historic throw-backs that make this place magical. I hovered by the assistant who measured and cut, metre rule in hand and large haberdashery scissors to the ready.

In the 1930’s Tissus Reine, a more up-market shop came on the scene. Again, six floors, the fabrics are more designer and more organized. Here your fabric is cut and held for you. A small hand-written ticket is issued and you queue to pay at an old-fashioned cashier desk. If you buy notions [all those little bits n bobs you need for sewing but can’t recall their name), you are given a basket that you fill, leaving it with an assistant, who tots up the whole on a tab, like adding beers to the menu. The cashiers still use the “air” system to send notes to the accounting office, an overhead (and several decades ago, pioneering) transporting system that sends pods of notes across the ceiling and into the offices for counting.

Women on a mission for fabrics in Paris

On the ground floor, little mannequins are draped in exquisite miniature outfits made from the fabrics available. The store is packed with women who it seems have the same enthusiasm as me and the shop does a roaring trade. On the upper floor is a bigger pattern section – Vogue and Butterick included.

I love the old-fashioned terrazzo floors here, made from multiple chips of marbles and tile. You could be in the 1950’s with all the hands-on measuring, wooden cabinetry and the bump-bump sound of fabric bolts being turned and measured on cutting tables. Tables are piled high, shelves are stuffed with pins, bobbins, tape measures, pin cushions, embroidery thread and dedicated button sections – neatly labelled and tubed and not sold in silly packets of four.

Next MBF Decoration – where I bought an ornate jacquard Belgian fabric. It was too expensive to buy a meter, so I asked for a small sample that included most of the repeat design. This piece cost me 60 euros, but I felt I would faint if I had to leave it behind!

For embellished and heavy-weighted upholstery fabrics, Ronsard Decors – Les Meruelles De St Pierre – covered all my bias-binding and notions needs.

This place is paradise for a seamstress – Zola was quite right!

Judi Castille is a freelance writer, illustrator and landscape/farm photographer with a passion for gardening and cheese. She lives in Creuse, Limousine in the heart of cow country and blogs at: judicastille.com

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The Promenade Plantée Paris – the most unusual park in the city https://thegoodlifefrance.com/the-promenade-plantee-paris-the-most-unusual-park-in-the-city/ Mon, 16 Oct 2017 08:49:44 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=64469 The other day I was waiting at Gare de Lyon in Paris to take a train to Burgundy (I know I have the best job, right?!)… I had quite a bit of time to spare so, lugging my suitcase and camera bag I wandered outside the station. I decided to go no further than 10 …

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The other day I was waiting at Gare de Lyon in Paris to take a train to Burgundy (I know I have the best job, right?!)…

I had quite a bit of time to spare so, lugging my suitcase and camera bag I wandered outside the station. I decided to go no further than 10 minutes’ walk away to see what I could discover close to the station.

The Promenade Plantée Paris

Down a side road opposite the Gare du Lyon – I spotted what looked like an aqueduct and headed off towards it. Five minutes later I arrived at Avenue Dausmenil, at what is known as the Promenade Plantée, a planted walkway.

Once a railway line, begun in the mid 1800s, that ran above the streets of Paris it was left abandoned in 1969 as bigger trains were introduced and new lines laid. Someone had the idea to plant it up and turn it into a park in the sky. Genius. In fact, the celebrated Highline Park in Manhattan, New York was inspired by the Paris park, and I’m not surprised – it really is lovely. And even better, if you have a suitcase like me and don’t want to lug it up the stairs, there’s a lift.

I was there on an mellow and sunny Autumn day. The colours on the trees glowed gold, orange, red and yellow. A few people sat on benches eating their lunch, joggers passed me by as I trailed my suitcase along the smooth path.

Take a promenade in Paris

 

The Promenade Plantée is also known as the Coulée Verte. It winds through Paris for 4.5 km from Opera Bastille to Bois de Vincennes. The overhead cables of the train line which was built in 1859, have been replaced by the sprawling branches of an avenue of trees.

I didn’t have long to wander but I saw an outdoor gym, loads of places to sit and chill and secret squares. Helpful signs point out where you are en route so you can hop on and off the walkway at key points. My Paris friends tell me that you go through tunnels and there are even pools on the “line”. It’s strangely rural and quiet when you’re up on the Promenade Plantée. The sound of the traffic below is hushed, softened by the trees and plants. You have a unique view over the street and the shops, houses and apartments from your perch up to ten metres above road level.

Underneath the access point on Avenue Daumesnil near Gare de Lyon is the Viaduc des Arts. The former railway arches have been transformed into shops and showrooms for artisans. Here you’ll find chocolate makers, goldsmiths, glass blowers and umbrella makers, artists of all kinds and chic cafés. Most people strolling this street simply don’t look up to see that just above the arches is the narrow, meandering park.

Enjoy time out from the hubbub of Paris and take a walk on the wild side in the park in the sky!

More on Paris

Top Ten Paris visits
Rue Mouffetard the oldest street in Paris
Saint Ouen flea market
Take a walk on the wild side – the Petite Ceinture, another abandoned railway line bought to life
Rue Cremieux – the colourful, picturesque street near the Gare de Lyon
5 off the beaten tourist track things to do in Paris

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Abelard and Heloise – the French Romeo and Juliet https://thegoodlifefrance.com/abelard-and-heloise-the-french-romeo-and-juliet/ Thu, 13 Apr 2017 10:06:15 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=61186 Paris is known as the city of love and in the famous Père Lachaise cemetery there reside together France’s most famous lovers – Abelard and Heloise. Long before Romeo and Juliet, and the City of Romance itself, another couple set tongues wagging, with their ill-fated romance. Abelard and Heloise’s tale is fascinating, and you can …

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Paris is known as the city of love and in the famous Père Lachaise cemetery there reside together France’s most famous lovers – Abelard and Heloise.

Long before Romeo and Juliet, and the City of Romance itself, another couple set tongues wagging, with their ill-fated romance. Abelard and Heloise’s tale is fascinating, and you can still trace parts of it in Paris today.

Notre Dame

The thwarted couple first met on the Ile de la Cite. When Peter Abelard arrived in Paris in 1100 as a student to Guillaume de Champeaux, he soon became a teacher himself. He was asked by the canon of Notre Dame to become tutor to his niece, Heloise. The location of the episcopal school where Abelard taught is now used as garages by the gendarmes.

Quai aux Fleurs

At Numbers 9 and 11, plaques and a pair of stone medallions commemorate the home of Canon Fulbert. He was Heloise’s uncle, under whose roof Abelard and Heloise began their affair. When Heloise fell pregnant and gave birth to their son, Astrolabe, her uncle forced them into marriage. Heloise argued against it, upset about the effect it could have on Abelard’s career ambitions.

To try and salvage the situation, Abelard sent Heloise away to a convent for her own protection. But Fulbert wasn’t prepared to let the damage to his reputation go unpunished. He sent a gang of thugs to Abelard’s home to perform, shall we say, the unkindest cut of all…

Basilica of St Denis

After being castrated, Abelard retreated to St Denis, becoming a monk. Heloise took the habit, against her wishes, but following his. Abelard moved on numerous times as a monk. Heloise eventually became an Abbess at a community of nuns, set up by Abelard when her original abbey was closed down.

Pere Lachaise Cemetery

Heloise outlived her Abelard by twenty years, and in 1164 was buried in a tomb near the city of Troyes in Champagne. The bodies of the doomed lovers went through multiple reburials, whether together or apart, depending on the whim of the Abbess in charge. They were finally removed and placed in a double coffin, and in 1817, it was taken to Pere Lachaise. A spectacular monument was built in their memory.

Conciergerie

Back on the Ile de la Cite, the former prison is now mostly used as law courts, but within the first room is a pillar, carved with scenes from the lives of Abelard and Heloise.

By Jennifer Wilson, author of Kindred Spirits: Tower of London

Discover 5 off the beaten track places to visit in Paris – including an ancient house where a Harry Potter wizard lived!
Discover a park on an island in the middle of Paris!
Rue Mouffetard – one of the oldest and prettiest streets in Paris
Rue Cremieux in Paris – pastel coloured houses and oh so pretty
Museum of the History of Medicine, Paris – bizarre and fascinating!

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Paris for solo travellers https://thegoodlifefrance.com/solo-travellers-paris/ Fri, 24 Feb 2017 09:55:17 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=60346 It’s no secret that Paris is the most romantic city in the world, the very best place to visit with the one you love. But maybe you aren’t in a relationship right now. You may, however,  be in love with art, architecture, history, travel, culture, language, food, and/or fashion. And you know the City of …

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It’s no secret that Paris is the most romantic city in the world, the very best place to visit with the one you love.

But maybe you aren’t in a relationship right now. You may, however,  be in love with art, architecture, history, travel, culture, language, food, and/or fashion. And you know the City of Light offers all that, and more.

So why not go there alone?

Paris for Solo Travellers

Paris is a marvelous destination for solo travelers. Think about it. Doesn’t it seem as if the two attractions Paris is most known for, sitting in sidewalk cafés and strolling along the Seine – were designed with the solitary wanderer in mind? Museum-going, window-shopping, and people-watching are also activities that can be done on one’s own. Perhaps they are best enjoyed that way. If the solitude starts to get to you, you can always sign up for a one-day cooking class or bicycle tour.

You don’t even have to be particularly brave. Paris is one of the safest big cities in the world. Yes, you should exercise reasonable care – study your map, keep an eye on your valuables, be alert to your surroundings. But, that’s true in most places. Indeed, you may discover that once you’ve successfully traveled alone, anything in life seems possible.

Paris is a place to ramble at random

Are you, like me, an introvert? Well, you’re in luck because solo Paris is perfect for those who feel happiest and most peaceful on their own. You can ramble at random and do what you want when you want. Extroverts will naturally do their thing, knowing how easy and natural it is for singletons to strike up friendly conversations with people in cafés or shops. In fact, impromptu chats like these are often the most memorable, rewarding parts of a trip (so much so that introverts might consider giving it a try, too!).

Dining out alone in Paris

Paris is also a fabulous city for going out to eat alone. No one will think it is odd. You may even find that waiters give you extra special attention. Actually, this goes for service in general—for some reason, solo travelers seem to draw greater kindness and consideration. If you feel awkward sitting alone in a café or restaurant, take something to read. No one will think that’s odd either.

Best of all, you’ll find that traveling alone intensifies the experience. With no distractions, it will be just you and Paris. You will perceive everything more directly and more vividly.

We think of Paris as the destination for couples in love. But if you yearn to visit Paris and haven’t met The One yet – go by yourself. It could be the start of a beautiful relationship. Next time, when you do travel there with your sweetheart, you will know all the best places.

Karen Burns, who has made many solo trips to Paris, is the author of The Paris Effect (Velvet Morning Press 2016). She has taken many solo trips to Paris and her book tells the tale of an American woman who goes Paris alone, has many adventures and ultimately discovers a Paris few tourists ever see.

Read our review of The Paris Effect by Karen Burns

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What to do in Paris when it rains  https://thegoodlifefrance.com/what-to-do-in-paris-when-it-rains/ Fri, 16 Dec 2016 15:10:31 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=59457 You booked a trip in Paris and then it rains. But you shouldn’t worry that it will ruin your visit even though when you booked your ticket you probably thought the weather would be sunny! Ten things to do in Paris when it rains Paris weather is unpredictable and even in summer rain is not …

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You booked a trip in Paris and then it rains. But you shouldn’t worry that it will ruin your visit even though when you booked your ticket you probably thought the weather would be sunny!

Ten things to do in Paris when it rains

Paris weather is unpredictable and even in summer rain is not unusual. There’s plenty to do in this city of history, culture and art and here are 10 of my favourite things to do in Paris when it’s wet.

1. Visit department stores

Printemps, Galeries Lafayette, Le Bon Marche and Colette are not just about shopping; they have great cafés and architecture too!

2. Visit Museums

Looking through the giant clock window of the Orsay Museum Paris

There are loads to choose from, don’t miss some of the  less known museum of Paris,  like Musée Galliera (fashion), Musée de la Mode et du Costume (fashion), Musée de Montmartre (arts) and La Maison du Victor Hugo. And, when you decide to visit La Maison de Victor Hugo, don’t forget to treat yourself afterwards to delicious pastries at Café Carette in Place des Vosges. The Orsay Museum is always great whatever the weather!

Check out 5 great free museums in Paris

3. Covered Passages

The shopping galleries of Paris are under cover and often utterly gorgeous like Passage Verdeau, Passage de Jouffroy, Passage des Panoramas (the oldest passage of Paris!), and Galeries Vivienne et Colbert.

4. Watch a movie

Buy the “Periscope” to see what movies you can enjoy in the little theaters of Paris, some of them are historic, quirky and quaint which really adds to your viewing pleasure!

5. Relax at a Cafe

Pouring hot chocolate from a jug into a cup in a cafe in Paris

Enjoy your drink and food and a good book or magazine. For example at Angelina’s with its lovely Belle Epoque decor and they serve delicious chocolat.

6. Enjoy the Arcades

The covered walkways of Paris streets are so charming, stroll the arcades of the Palais Royale and the rue de Rivoli for a memorable wander.

 

7. Find a flea market

The best in town are at the Marche aux puces de Saint-Ouen where you’ll find hundreds of places to browse for a bargain.

8. Glorious greenhouses

Visit the greenhouses in the Jardin des Plantes, where you can walk through a tropical atmosphere.

9. Bobbing along

View of Notre Dame before the great fire of 2019

Take a boat trip on the river Seine. Paris seen from the water is wonderful!

10. Wander…

Last but not least…Paris is beautiful when it rains. Buy an umbrella, take a stroll and enjoy the wonderful views.

By Darina Nykl who lives in Holland where she works in a hospital and is an author. She blogs about the stories she is writing which are mostly set in Amsterdam, Paris, Provence and the Cote d’Azur, places that inspire her: darinanykl.com

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The Top Ten Paris Visits https://thegoodlifefrance.com/the-top-ten-paris-visits/ Tue, 01 Nov 2016 11:02:29 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=58272 If you only have a day or a weekend in Paris, you’ll want to make the most of your time and see the most iconic sites. I’m often asked for my tips for what to see when you only have a short window of time, so here are my top ten Paris visits – iconic …

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If you only have a day or a weekend in Paris, you’ll want to make the most of your time and see the most iconic sites. I’m often asked for my tips for what to see when you only have a short window of time, so here are my top ten Paris visits – iconic but also authentic Paris. You probably won’t get round them all in a day, well unless you don’t sleep, but two days, it’s just about doable. Of course longer is better so you can take your time and really get to experience this great city.

1. Montmartre

top-ten-paris-montmartre

This hilly area of Paris is a must see. This is where the famous street artists ply their trade in and around Place du Tertre and I recommend you wander all around the little streets, and gaze at Sacré-Coeur. Perch on the legendary steps of Montmartre for amazing views over the city. Read about the artists of Montmartre.

2. Musee d’Orsay

top-ten-paris-musee-dorsay

Much smaller than the Louvre, less queuing and this former railway station turned museum is truly beautiful with wonderful collections. If you go on a Tuesday lunchtime (October to April) you can listen to a concert and the ticket for the music covers entry to the museum too! Music at the Orsay.

3. A famous café

top-ten-cafe-de-flore-paris

Yes a cliché but it has to be done! You could go for coffee at Les Deux Magots or Café de Flore, not that far from the Musee d’Orsay. They are iconic (also known as expensive!) and you’ll have a memory to cherish.

4. Eiffel Tower

top-ten-paris-eiffel-tower

Of course! You can’t go to Paris without seeing the Iron Lady and, if you’re not scared of heights – head for the top. When dusk falls the tower it lit up and twinkles on the hour for 5 minutes inducing gasps from watching crowds! Tip, book your ticket online to save queuing.

5. Rue Mouffetard

top-ten-paris-rue-mouffetard

Go here for the morning market and the echoes of the past and to follow in the footsteps of Ernest Hemingway who lived there. Read more about ancient, beautiful rue Mouffetard.

6. The area around the Louvre

top-ten-paris-louvre

I love to walk from the rue de Rivoli and the Jardins de Tuileries in front of the Louvre to Notre Dame along the Seine with the second hand book sellers and the sites en route. You’ll pass streets that cry out to be explored, plenty of places to stop for a coffee break or hot chocolate at Angelina’s Tea Room in rue de Rivoli. This way you’ll really get a real feel for this picturesque part of the city.

7. Notre Dame and the flower market

top-ten-paris-flower-market

Okay, two things here but they’re close to each other! Most people miss the flower market, they’re simply not aware it’s there but it’s just a stone’s throw from the famous church. It’s lovely at dusk with the bells ringing and the flower kiosks lit up, the perfect place for a hot chocolate break or an aperitif in one of the many cafés.

8. Shopping in Paris

top-ten-paris-galeries-lafayette

If you like shopping, the Champs-Elysées is expensive but fun. I like to walk the length of the avenue admiring the posh shops and the dressed up shoppers then stop at the bottom at the Petit Palais for a cup of tea or coffee – it’s a free museum with gorgeous gardens! If you only have time for a couple of shops – make it Printemps for the shopping and the view from the roof top café and Galeries Lafayette for the shopping and the amazing glass dome. Read where to get the view sky line views in Paris

9. Palais Garnier

top-ten-paris-opera-garnier

When it’s raining, and even if it’s not, a backstage tour of the Paris Opera House is always lovely and great fun to know you’re in the home of the Phantom of the Opera!

10. Latin Quarter

top-ten-paris-latin-quarter

Eating out in Paris is a joy, there’s so much choice so how do you pick where to go, do you base it on location, fame, the quality of food, budget, some or of all them. Only you know that but for sheer can’t beat it uniquenes, it has to be Le Procope, the oldest café in the world. Past diners include Robespierre who held revolutionary meetings there, Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Jefferson and Napoleon (who left his hat as a guarantee he would pay his bill). Le Procope opened in 1686, starter & main menu is about Euros 21.50. For looks, choice, history and fun – you can’t beat the Latin Quarter where some of the streets are a foodie paradise like rue Saint Severin and rue Galande,  you’ll thank me for this tip I promise you!

More on Paris
5 of the most romantic places to kiss in Paris
5 Brilliant free museums in Paris
5 off the beaten track things to see in Paris – including the medieval house of a Harry Potter character!
See Paris at night in this utterly ravishing video

 

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Deliciously Deranged Nuit Blanche Paris https://thegoodlifefrance.com/deliciously-deranged-nuit-blanche-paris/ Sun, 16 Oct 2016 10:12:25 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=57974 Nuit Blanche literally means White Night, a term that’s used to describe a night without sleep. In Paris though, on the first Saturday of October it means one single night which sees the city put on a very special show. With Nuit Blanche Paris, you can expect the unexpected, a dawn to dusk extravaganza with …

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Nuit Blanche literally means White Night, a term that’s used to describe a night without sleep. In Paris though, on the first Saturday of October it means one single night which sees the city put on a very special show. With Nuit Blanche Paris, you can expect the unexpected, a dawn to dusk extravaganza with an arty party atmosphere –  and a lot of fun.

Every year the theme and location for Nuit Blanche changes but one thing remains the same, this is a crazy art event that’s unlike anything you will have experienced before!

What is Nuit Blanche Paris

It all began in Paris in 2002 when the then Mayor, Bertrand Delanoë, inaugurated Nuit Blanche as a festival of the arts and culture. The concept was to show Paris in new and original ways and since then the idea has spread to cities around the world.

nuit-blanche-paris

Nuit Blanche is an arty party, it’s enjoyed by a huge number of Parisians who walk a circuit along which art installations are free to be seen by all. Not just seen – experienced. This whole festival is something that you see, hear and feel.

It’s also free to everyone. Installations may be in the street, even in the River Seine as I saw in 2016, or in museums and public buildings, in them, on them and around them!

It’s a celebration of art, life, love, fun, individuality and culture. It’s a chance to join in.

Beautifully Bizarre and Deliciously Deranged!

The artworks may be provocative, shocking, humorous, beautiful or bizarre. It’s a visual feast, and maybe with sound. Whatever it is, you may be sure you will remember this event, it will inspire and give you food for thought, for discussion and some wonderful memories.

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When I went in 2016, in the grounds of the oldest hospital in Paris, Hotel Dieu, in the 16th century courtyard, a sci-fi looking light art installation by Christian Rizzo wowed the crowds despite the rain. In fact the rain seemed to make it seem even more ethereal. I couldn’t help wondering what the patients might make of it in this still working hospital! In the gardens of the Petit Palais Museum, the air was filled with coloured lights and scantily clad dancers from the famous Crazy Horse Cabaret appeared like nymphs causing hundreds of cameras to click! I followed a group of people clad in black and chanting through a closed section of a road tunnel in the dark – a totally surreal experience that made me think of Orpheus entering the underworld. I walked over a bridge to the sound of loud growling (I think) as a light swirled in the depths of the Seine below. Further on a huge vortex art installation by artist Anish Kapoor held viewers enthralled. Strange, yes. Quirky, yes. Wonderful, absolutely.

It is a deliciously deranged and totally unexpected Paris that you will see on Nuit Blanche.

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It’s a must-do, must-see experience in Autumn in Paris and a truly one-off way to get under the skin of Paris and to appreciate it in a wholly original and surprising way.

Find out more: Paris.info.com

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Take a walk on the wild side in Paris on the Petite Ceinture https://thegoodlifefrance.com/take-a-walk-on-the-wild-side-in-paris-on-the-petite-ceinture/ Tue, 11 Oct 2016 17:02:43 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=57972 Get off the beaten track by getting on the beaten track! Take a walk on the wild side on the abandoned railway tracks of Paris, known as the Petite Ceinture. Take a trek on a track The first urban railway in Paris ran on a line that encircled the city, carrying steam trains through the …

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Get off the beaten track by getting on the beaten track! Take a walk on the wild side on the abandoned railway tracks of Paris, known as the Petite Ceinture.

Take a trek on a track

The first urban railway in Paris ran on a line that encircled the city, carrying steam trains through the arrondissements, the districts of the City. Long before the metro arrived, the track ran over tiny metal bridges, and through streets at an underground level. Stations were built and the train line generally transformed the life of the city. It was called the Petite Ceinture, which means the little belt in French, it went around the waist of the inner city of Paris.

As technology developed, the steam trains were replaced and that first innovative railway line stopped being the city’s favourite urban line in carrying passengers in 1934. For a while after the line was used for carrying freight before falling out of use or being  updated for new trains. Many of the old stations, including the first elevated station in Paris, were destroyed or abandoned and the tracks became over grown.

Corridor of wildlife in the city

A few years ago, a group of volunteers proposed to the track owners SNCF, the French railway company, to open up part of the abandoned lines to the public.

The old railway tracks had by now become a sort of corridor of wildlife in the city. Buildings had gone up around the track, the city had developed over the years but the tracks were still there, largely hidden behind overgrown vegetation.

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SNCF agreed and today several kilometres of track is accessible to the public to enjoy walking on in the  heart of the city. It’s not an unbroken line as some of that development took place over the top of the tracks but in certain parts you can find what feels like the country in the city. As most of the 32km (almost 20 miles) of the Petite Ceinture tracks wind through the city over bridges or low down in cuttings or in tunnels, they are for the most part unseen or hidden at street level.  Nature has reclaimed the space and it has become a haven for wild flowers and animals, and some parts have been rejuvenated, old stations and arches becoming great bars and cafes.

Walk the Line

Take the Passy district in the 16th arrondissement. Here you can walk on a track that feels like a skinny finger of forest. Trees shade the soft path, there are a few traces of track left to remind visitors of its heritage but on the whole it feels just like being in the middle of the countryside even as you glimpse cars passing by in this rather upmarket residential district. Birds flit, bees buzz, keen runners enjoy the fresh air, railway green benches enable you to enjoy the peace and tranquillity. Find out how to walk the line in Passy: paris.fr

Discover this unexpected artery of countryside in the body of Paris: www.petiteceinture.org

Petite Ceinture in the 15th, 13th and 12th Arrondissements as well as the Bastille area.

More Unexpected Paris features
How employees at the Google Cultural Institute in Paris turned detective and discovered a hidden secret at the Paris Opera House
The French Evolution of the 13th Arrondissement – the biggest city planning project since Haussman

More info about what to do and see in Paris: Parisinfo.com | UK.France.fr

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Le Train Bleu Paris https://thegoodlifefrance.com/le-train-bleu-paris/ Sat, 08 Oct 2016 17:10:52 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=57958 Paris, France needs little introduction as the cosmopolitan capital city of France, located in the north central part of the country. The City of Light is just waiting for you to amble through the side streets, duck into passageways and discover hidden treasures that will leave an indelible impression on your heart. With so much …

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le train-bleu-flickr

Paris, France needs little introduction as the cosmopolitan capital city of France, located in the north central part of the country. The City of Light is just waiting for you to amble through the side streets, duck into passageways and discover hidden treasures that will leave an indelible impression on your heart.

With so much to see and do in Paris, it can be overwhelming to know where the real treasures are hiding. Getting to know the secrets of this wonderful city can simply take a lifetime. We all travel with the anticipation of experiencing that perfect moment that transports us to another time. Sometimes those destinations are hiding in plain sight, like Le Train Bleu Paris…

Le Train Bleu

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The quintessential interior of the Le Train Bleu restaurant is refreshed; to its time-honored perfection, restoring its luster and patina, once again. Modern, unobtrusive window treatments, have been installed so guests can gaze out onto Place Louis Armand, or sit discretely. The iconic cobalt blue color was been sprinkled throughout in the dining chairs and banquettes – with accents of brass studs, all mimicking the French night train color scheme.

The legendary Le Train Bleu logo – above the arch windows – now replicates the intricate scrollwork from the original radiator covers. Signature china plates reflect the new gold filigree logo, edged in turquoise blue, all setting the stage for a flawless romantic dinner.

A classical French restaurant with a fine 1900’s art museum – with the walls and ceiling portraying 41 European landscapes, in frescoes and paintings by the most prominent artists of the time: François Flameng, Henri Gervex, Gaston Casimir Saint-Pierre, and many others.

With the accoutrements of crown moldings, gold leaf gilding, and sparkling chandeliers, all restored and harmonized, Le Train Bleu is a masterpiece just waiting to enchant the world’s travelers. Visitors from around the globe stop in this legendary restaurant, to admire the splendor of a grande dame from a gilded age.

If you have an hour to spare between trains – this is the perfect refined break for ambiance and art in a graceful and refined setting. No ticket required.

Le Train Bleu, 1st floor, Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand

J.Christina is the blogger behind www.scribblesandsmiles.net. Blogging from the Midwest, J. Christina, and her husband, Mr. Christie, share their European trips so others can travel vicariously through their scribbles and images.

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