Dordogne is one of the five departments of Aquitaine, now part of the super region Nouvelle Aquitaine (which includes Limousin and Poitou-Charentes). Aquitaine stretches along the Atlantic coast, from the Gironde estuary to the Basque country, along the Pyrenees Mountains on the Spanish border to the picture-postcard pretty towns and villages in Dordogne.

Visit the region that’s a wine and food lovers dream and start your journey by staying at the 18^th century Chateau de Masburel in the heart of Dordogne. Idyllically set in the glorious countryside, surrounded by vineyards, it’s the perfect location to experience the French lifestyle. Close to the historic town of Bergerac, the historic castle is within easy travelling distance of the best of Dordogne and of Aquitaine. There are markets close by with fabulous local production and there’s wine tasting at the Chateau, of course. And not just any old wines. These are multi-award winning fabulous whites and reds.

Chateau Masburel, built from honey-coloured stone for one of Louis XV’s tax collectors who lived in nearby lovely Saint-Foy, has been making wine since before the French Revolution. Choose from the plush B&B or the gorgeous gite for your perfect Dordogne holiday home.

From the Chateau you have access to a wide range of superb activities and some of the officially ‘Most beautiful villages of France’, plus an abundance of prehistoric sites.

Here are just a few of our favourite places for food and wine lovers that are within easy distance of the chateau.

Bergerac and surroundings

Nearby Bergerac, a historic town of half-timbered houses is home to many restaurants serving traditional dishes. The Maison des Vins in the town is located in the former 17^th century cloisters and showcases the regions wines, and includes a super tasting session. Go on a Wednesday or Saturday morning for the lovely market in the shadow of the Gothic bell tower of the Cathedral of Notre-Dame. You’ll discover the best of the local produce – from duck foie gras, goose confit, cabécou, soft goat’s cheese, truffles, strawberries, Périgord walnuts, chestnuts, caviar and of course the local wines.

And at the pretty as a picture Renaissance chateau de Monbazillac not far from Bergerac, you can enjoy a wine tasting – including the fabulous mellow white wine of the same name. You should drink it very cold as an aperitif, with paté, or with dessert – it’s especially good with strawberries.

Meanwhile The Naked Vigneron in Margeuron involves no nudism but offers vineyard tastings and food experiences! From posh picnics by a pond to fabulous four course dinners, plus a private tour of the winery.

Sarlat

Capital of the Périgord Noir, the town of Sarlat is the jewel in the crown of the Dordogne and numerous fetes are dedicated to the local gems of French gastronomy. Go on a Wednesday or Saturday morning for the superb, sprawling market in the medieval centre. On other days head to the covered market in a former church – you can’t miss it, the doors are monumental. Wander the cobblestoned streets, explore the winding alleys and ogle at the ancient buildings from Medieval to Renaissance.

Cadillac

Just outside the city of Cadillac, around an hour and a half from Bergerac, the local Maison des Vins is in an old Charterhouse with a rich historical past. The museum, which received a gold award for its art and culture, is at the heart of the wine tourism region and includes a shop and tasting section.

Bordeaux

Aquitaine’s regional capital Bordeaux, a former commercial harbour, is a must-see. Home to large avenues, beautiful gardens and revamped quays, plus splendid 18^th century buildings that have earned the city UNESCO World Heritage Site. Don’t miss the Cité du Vin museum, a fascinating journey into the world of wine, plus a fabulous tasting bar on the 7^th floor with views over the city.

Bordeaux is also considered as the gateway to the famous vineyards where winegrowers are happy to welcome you for a visit and a wine tasting. Pomerol, Saint Emilion, Pessac Leognan, Entre deux Mers, Medoc, Cote de Blaye – fabulous wines and hundreds of Chateaux! Some belong to international brands, some are small and private, and they are spread across a radius of about 60 miles around Bordeaux, from Bergerac to the Gironde Estuary.

Book your stay at the Chateau de Masburel and enjoy a feast of experiences in Aquitaine: chateau-masburel.com

The post Food and wine lovers guide to Dordogne appeared first on The Good Life France.

Aim for the top and have a sense of humour when it comes to castles in Dordogne says Mike Zampa…

We moved into our part-time home last month in France’s Dordogne Valley. Our village is called La Roque Gageac. We’re halfway up a steep hill above the glistening Dordogne River AKA the suburbs of this 13th-century town of 400 people. Downtown is nestled at the foot of a sheer cliff hundreds of feet straight up.

People like to be on top of things in Southwest France – or more precisely, on top of the world. At our house in California, heaven is a flat lot for the swimming pool. Here, only water sans gazeuse is flat. Everything else is built on perches.

Historians say hilltop towns reflect the Dordogne’s brutish history. Marauders and invading armies convinced villagers to build above the fray. Far enough up and the pillagers would look for alternatives the rationale went.

Fortunately for us, the strategy worked… sort of. Villagers were still terrorized through the Middle Ages. But their towns survived. What’s left are hamlets listed among the most beautiful in France. Breath-taking in every sense of the word.

Here’s a list of top (pun intended) towns at altitude in the Dordogne, each more beautiful than the last. Their names are followed by their rating on our highly scientific high-o-meter.

La Roque Gageac (Nosebleed high)

The village of  Roque Gageac dates to the 12th century when troglodytes lived in caves. It begins on the banks of the Dordogne then goes straight up. From the river, it’s a picture in a storybook. From the cavern-like fort etched out of a cliff face, it’s a nosebleed. Villagers retreated to the fort to escape Vikings with world domination issues. Today you can scale 174 stairs to the fort. The staircase clings to the cliff. You would too if you saw a Viking.

Beynac (uncomfortably high)

Beynac is overshadowed by its castle rising hundreds of feet above the Dordogne. It’s within eyesight of its adversary, Castelnaud, just minutes up the river. Both fortresses were focal points of the Hundred Years War. To understand which country – France or Britain – controlled which castle, read a book. It’s too hard to explain here. You can reach the castle by climbing a twisting, cobblestone path flanked by dreamy stone cottages. What they don’t tell you is that you don’t need to walk up the steep path. There’s a road going up to a parking lot near the castle entrance. And they said there were no jokes coming out of the Hundred Years War.

Castelnaud (Like Beynac only steeper)

This restored castle is illuminated at night. You can see it from all over the Dordogne Valley. You can see the moon, too, though it’s not quite as high. Quaint cottages tumble down – figuratively speaking – the hillside below Castelnaud. There’s an impressive trebuchet, a catapult-like weapon that flung 400-pound boulders 40 meters. Scared the heck out of the enemy but took 60 minutes to load. During the other 59 minutes, there was hell to pay.

Limeuil (Feral cats use handrails)

Two natural phenomena define this gorgeous hilltop village. The first: The Dordogne and Vézère rivers converge here under two lovely arched bridges. The second: no two Frenchmen pronounce Limeuil the same way. Take the sharp vertical drop from the hilltop lookout past picturesque shops. It will take your mind off the fact you’re basically descending the face of the Chrysler Building.

Domme (Don’t look down)

This is a classic Bastide town. That means it was built behind a wall on a hilltop to discourage invaders. What a waste of time. The first invaders took one look at Domme and said: “No way I’m climbing that.” In addition to altitude, Domme has one other claim: the most beautiful view in the world. You can see miles of geometrically cultivated farmland from its Belvedere. There’s also a magnificent river view of the Dordogne making a hard left turn to neighboring Vitrac.

In summary, Southwest France has peaks and a valley. It’s all beautiful, but the peaks will have you over the moon…quite literally.

The post Castles in the sky in Dordogne! appeared first on The Good Life France.

There is a museum near Agen in south-west France that will move you in a way no museum has moved you before.

You’ll feel your body’s bile production surge, blood sugar level stabilize, ossification parameters dramatically improve and cholesterol rapidly plummet. You may even feel the toxins being flushed away. The relaxation is tangible. The soluble fibre palpable.

You don’t get any of that at the Louvre.

Or by staring up at the Sistine ceiling.

The New York Met and Tate London have nothing on Musée du Pruneau on the Berino-Matinet farm in Lafitte-sur-Lot in Lot-et-Garonne.

“Awe” is the only word for it.

It’s the only way you can describe the feeling you get when you find yourself in the presence of the world’s two oldest prunes.

The star attractions and most prized of the world’s first – and so far only – prune museum, are some elderly and very frail plums. They are the oldest and most wizened prunes in captivity. Experts believe them to be priceless. Although they will never be auctioned. Food safety regulations assure that.

“Le Musée du Pruneau Gourmand” houses a unique collection of prune-related paraphernalia. Its famous pickled relics, which are kept in an airtight and thief-proof cabinet to deter private collectors (yes really), date back to 1857. They are local celebrities. Although no longer edible, they are of great historical significance.

Agen

Agen is the centre of France’s plum-growing and prune-producing industry. This is a region that is steeped in prunes. Every September, millions of purple, velvety soft plums are shaken into huge, inverted umbrellas in the Lot-et-Garonne region. Agen plums have a high sugar content which allows them to fully ripen on the tree – without fermenting around the stone. Around 30% of them are made into prunes. Agen produces an average of 45,000 tonnes of prunes each year.

“La Route du Pruneau” is an official signposted tourist route which takes you around prune-dependent villages like Beauville, Bonaguil, Lacapelle-Biron, Mouflanquin, Villeneuve-sur-Lot and the medieval village of Pujols which has a weekly market at which plums and prunes take centre stage. Local prune farms offer tastings to the passing trade.  In some towns there are “prune boutiques” selling a wide variety of pruney things. Think prunes covered in dark chocolate and perhaps a sprinkling of Espelette pepper, cream of prunes, and prunes immersed in rum, Eau de vie de Prune d’Ente and Pruneaux à l’Armagnac. Ditch those memories of prunes and cold custard you may have had at school – prunes are cool!

Agen holds an annual “Great Prune Show” during the last weekend in August. The Town Hall at Place Esquirol is bathed in prune-coloured light. The main street is turned into Le Boulevard des Pruneaux and prunes are given away for free.

Prunes are everywhere. You half expect to go to your hotel room and find a prune waiting for you on your pillow.

At the shop of the Maitre Prunille factory in Casseneuil they will tell you ‘we French treasure our prunes. They are in our blood. Our mothers brought us up with prune bread, glazed tarts, soft custard filled pastries, petit fours filled with prunes. At Christmas, the turkey is always stuffed with prunes.’

The surprisingly fascinating history of the prune

In French “une prune” is, in fact, a plum and a prune is “un pruneau”. The Agen prune, which received its official appellation in the eighteenth century, was first known as the “Prune de Bordeaux” because it was shipped in great quantities to England and Holland from the port of Bordeaux.

Plum seeds first made their way to France from China, transported by merchants via the Silk Road. The Romans planted plum trees in Gaul and Benedictine monks of the Abbey of Clairac (in the Lot-et-Garonne) brought back the plum trees that we know, on their return from the Crusades in the 12th century. One of the most popular varieties today is prune d´Ente, which comes from the old French word ‘enter’, which means to graft, due to the monks grafting the trees to make them bear fruit. Prune cultivation developed in the 16th century.

Agen prunes are the only dried fruit to have an European Union PGI (Protection Geographical Indication Origine).

Prunes, prunes and more prunes

Throughout the region of Lot-et-Garonne, you will find prune dishes on menus in most restaurants. Prune bread, prune tajines, potato and prune vegetable dishes, and pretty much everything from guinea fowl breasts, duck and geese to mushrooms stuffed with prunes. And for dessert, prune crumble with the local Armagnac grape is rather delicious. They’re also popular at the bottom of a glass of hot wine at Christmas.

To create a prune, cooking time is determined by the plum’s sugar level. Usually this is between 18-26 hours at 75 deg C. Two centuries ago they were dried over brambles, then in a fournière, or bread oven. After drying, called le machonnage, the prunes are graded. It takes 3 kilos of plums to produce one kilo of prunes.

At Confiserie Boisson sweet shop in the backstreets of Agen, six generations of the Boisson family has been bathing and boiling prunes in big brass pots and oven-drying them since 1835. The shop is crammed with prune conserves, jams, bon bons and their speciality, chocolate-truffle prunes with prune paste.

One visit to this shop, and you’ll become a regular…

Did you know: Prunes were introduced to the USA by Frenchman Louis Pellier from Agen, who went in search of California gold. His gold mining venture was a failure and he turned to farming. In 1850, Pellier grafted a cutting of d’Agen rootstock onto wild plum trees growing in the Santa Clara Valley. And the rest as they say is history…

Useful sites: Musee-du-pruneau.com; en.destination-agen.com

Recipe for Far Breton – a custard tart with prunes, speciality of Brittany

The post The Prune route of France appeared first on The Good Life France.

We asked Anthony Deperi who lives and works in Bordeaux, about his favourite places in the sunny city. Originally from Alsace, he loves to explore the charms and secret places of Bordeaux.

Discover the places the locals love in Bordeaux…

Favourite Bordeaux bar?

My favourite bar is the Rooftop Yacht Club at the Grand Hotel. It’s the perfect place to enjoy delicious cocktails with a great view over the rooftops Bordeaux. You can see all the emblematic figures of the city including the fabulous Opera House.

Favourite Bordeaux restaurant

As an unconditional fan of Italian cuisine, I always turn to Osteria Palatino from the Big Mamma group. They have a super menu with a great variety of dishes, and on top of that, you get an immersive experience with the friendly waiters with their authentic Italian accents. Pure dolce vita – Bordeaux style.

Where would you go with friends after work for an aperitif and to relax?

My favourite place is Le Vertige. It’s a wine bar with hundreds of wines. The staff are lovely, it feels like you’re visiting friends. It’s right in the centre of town, so it’s easy to get to.

What is your favourite place to go to on a Sunday afternoon?

I love going to the Bassin d’Arcachon seaside resort on the Atlantic coast, home to the Dune de Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe. It doesn’t matter whether it’s summer or winter, you rediscover the richness of the region. In summer, you can enjoy the fine sandy beaches, oyster tasting and water sports. And in winter explore the town, and maybe go horse-riding, it’s never that cold! It’s less than an hour by train from the centre of Bordeaux and there are around 20 trains a day.

Favourite cultural venue?

Of course, at the Cité du Vin.  The permanent tour is immersive and interactive helps you discover so much about wine. And there are always new, temporary exhibitions.

Where would you go to enjoy a picnic in the city?

The Jardin Public is the green lung of Bordeaux, a huge garden with flowers that smell lovely and shady trees. When the weather is good, you can spend a whole day there and hardly notice the passing of time!

Favourite cake shop

I take all my friends to the coffee shop, PNP – Personne N’est Parfait. These are healthy and delicious desserts that make you want to eat so much. I love to go here for a hot drink and snack for le gouter (snack time) – it’s the best time of the day. I can’t say no to a cannelé, my favourite is from La Toque Cuivrée.

If you want to get out of the city for a day – where would you go?

Saint-Emilion is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Bordeaux and discover a new landscape. Situated 40 minutes from Bordeaux, this delightful medieval village in the heart of the famous Bordeaux vineyards is unique due to the size of its vineyards, the quality of its wines and the majesty of its architecture and monuments.

Best place for shopping in the city?

Bord’Eau Village is a place where there is always something going on. It’s a destination in itself. A place to shop but also to meet people and stroll along the river Garonne.

Favourite event held in Bordeaux?

That’s easy – it’s Bordeaux Fête Le Vin! This year it was my first time to go, and it’s a fabulous fun event that brings together the locals as well as visitors to the city to enjoy great wine. At this event you’ll “follow” the iconic wine route through the different villages of the appellations, and you’ll taste delicious Bordeaux wines. There’s a really friendly atmosphere, beautiful sailing boats that are open to visitors, festive and pretty rest and meeting areas, a regional gastronomic delights on offer and cultural and festive activities spread throughout the festival.

Anthony Deperi is the marketing and communications executive at the Intercontinental Bordeaux – Le Grand Hotel.

The post Locals Guide to: Bordeaux appeared first on The Good Life France.

Just the name Biarritz makes you think of glamour and glitz. In the Pays Basque, in the far southwest of France on the Bay of Biscay, this once aristocratic resort, favoured by European royalty, is both elegant and exhilarating. Lovers of the ritzy lifestyle tend to favour the French Riviera these days leaving Biarritz to those who love the sun and glorious golden beaches, surfers drawn to the Atlantic rollers, Parisians and those who want a holiday in a resort that offers everything you’d want in a sunny southern French town. It’s stylish as well as laid back and even rather exotic. Here’s what to see and do in Biarritz…

Don’t miss in Biarritz

When the great French writer Victor Hugo visited Biarritz in 1843, he wrote “I know of no other place more charming and magnificent than Biarritz”. That was before the heady days when it was discovered by the rich and famous. A little over a decade later, Napoleon III stayed there with his wife Eugenie, and Biarritz was ‘discovered’. Every summer for sixteen years, the imperial couple stayed, building a summer villa – the Villa Eugenie. It burned down in 1903 and was rebuilt in the same E-Shape and is now the Hotel du Palais.

Biarritz is still charming and magnificent. The Belle Epoque architecture combined with buildings in Art Deco, Neo-Norman and Neo-Basque styles give the town a unique look making it a great place to wander.

The beaches are superb. Sun worshippers will love the golden sands dotted with vibrant parasols.

The shopping is great! Pick up a pair of the famous espadrilles, striped Basque fabric, pottery, or a Basque knife like those used in Napoleonic campaigns.

Culture

You probably wouldn’t pick this town for its cultural assets – yet there is plenty here to please. The Biarritz Historical Museum is small but charming. Located in a former Anglican church it gives a great understanding of the history of the town. Climb to the top of the  Phare de Biarritz lighthouse for fabulous views over the ocean. Pop into the Imperial Chapel, commissioned by Empress Eugenie, dive into the sea with a pack of sharks but stay dry at the immersive 4D cinema. There are several museums in the town – great for rare rainy days.

Food is culture too in France. And here in Biarritz you’ll find Basque favourites like gateau basque and dishes featuring the famous red chilli pepper of the region, the espelette. Less spicy than you might imagine, espelettes are used in lots of local dishes like Poulet Basquaise and even with eggs. Head to Les Halles, the covered market and stock up on fabulous cheeses, Bayonne ham and local produce. There are loads of restaurants from Michelin star to beach shack.

Cross the footbridge built by Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame. It leads to a rocky outcrop known locally as Rocher de la Vierge. It’s topped by a statue of the Virgin Mary, a token of gratitude from whalers who were once miraculously saved from being shipwrecked and saw a divine light coming up from behind this rock.

Surfer heaven

Surfing came to Biarritz in 1956 thanks to author and Hollywood screenwriter Peter Viertel. He was staying in the town for the filming of The Sun Also Rises, an adaption of Ernest Hemingway’s book of the same name. Viertel was impressed by the waves and sent for his surfboard from California. Three years later, the first surf club was born in Biarritz, making it the historic capital of surfing in Europe.

Hardcore surfers head to La Nord beach in Hossegor where the swell can reach 6 metres high. There’s also a saltwater lake there for more relaxed water sports as well as an immense pine forest.

The bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz is also famous for its waves. Afterwards take a break in the pretty seaside resort with its authentic fishing port. There are beaches for surfers of all levels, long boarders and short boarders, and you can take lessons too. The city has webcams set up on the main beaches so you can check out the surf!

More on the area

Slow tour of the Basque country

Recipe for Gateau Basque

The post What to see and do in Biarritz appeared first on The Good Life France.

Have you ever climbed the stairs of a 20-storey building? If so, you should be prepared to huff and puff your winding way to the top of the spectacular Pey-Berland bell tower in Bordeaux. Your reward will be a view across the beautiful city from the highest point in the area. All you need to do is haul yourself up 231 tightly spiralling stone steps.

Bordeaux’s art you can climb inside

Standing at an impressive 66 metres (216 feet) the rocket-like tower is riotously decorated in a style known as Flamboyant Gothic – and it really does live up to its billing, with the exterior being packed with gargoyles and intricate carved detailing.

You might recall having climbed the 284 spiral steps of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. So perhaps you’re feeling confident about powering up the tower in Bordeaux. Well, keep in mind that the Arc de Triomphe is ‘merely’ 50 metres (164 ft) high. That is to say, the Pey-Berland tower is higher but has fewer steps. A little arithmetic will tell you that each riser of the tower’s stone steps is a calf-and-thigh stretching 28 cm (11 inches). By the time you reach the top, you will have really earned it!

Historic Bell Tower

The Pey-Berland is actually the bell tower of the adjacent Saint-Andre cathedral, which is a marvellous Gothic edifice in its own right. Its massive flying buttresses are an astonishing sight to behold looking down from the top of the tower. So why was the bell tower built separately? The cathedral’s many and mighty flying buttresses actually provide a hint. When the current form of the cathedral was taking shape around 1320, the ground on which it stands was (and remains) somewhat marshy and unstable. Owing to random subsidence, the cathedral was at constant risk of falling to pieces.

Of course, a cathedral must have bells. But the church authorities had a well-founded fear that a heavy bell tower built atop the unstable cathedral would spell doom. And so, under the driving force of the Archbishop Pey-Berland, after whom the tower is named, in 1440 the construction of the separate bell tower began – and continued until 1500. The irony was that because of various protracted problems, no bells were installed in the tower until 1853: a 353-year wait!

In between times, the non-bell bell tower was turned to several non-religious purposes, including a shot tower. That is to say, lead metal ingots were hoisted to the top of the tower and were there melted in wood-fired crucibles. The molten metal was then tipped down the inside of the tower. As it fell, the liquid metal cooled and separated into pellets for use in shot gun cartridges.

Our lady of Aquitaine

By 1863, four massive tolling bells had been in place for ten years. They collectively weighed a hefty 15.6 tonnes or 17.2 US tons. At that time, a 6 metre (19 ft, 8 inch) sculpture of Madonna and Child – known in Bordeaux as Our Lady of Aquitaine – was installed on the peak of the tower. Made from a steel frame with a copper plating skin, the sculpture weighed in at 1.3 tonnes (1.4 US tons). Over time, the copper sculpture acquired a typical dull greenish patina. But after a restoration in 2002 it emerged dazzling in the daylight, being newly covered in gold leaf.

Well, knowing all that, you simply must climb the steps of Bordeaux’s Pey-Berland tower. Find a 20-storey building in your hometown and put in some practice.

By Brad Allan, writer and wine tasting host in Melbourne, Australia and frequent visitor to France…

More on Bordeaux

Discover the Pey-Berland District

Top things to do in Bordeaux

The wine museum of Bordeaux 

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Pau, the capital of the Bearn department in the Pyrenees-Atlantiques is set between the mountains and the oceans in the far southwest tip of France. It’s a classified city of art and history with a wonderfully preserved heritage. But it’s also a modern metropolis which has undergone a major makeover and urban renewal which has left it invigorated with a dynamic vibe. There’s plenty to see and do in this energetic city but here are some of the must-sees…

Follow in the footsteps of Henri IV

Built in the 14^th century, the lofty chateau was the birthplace of Renaissance king Henri IV in December 1553. The royal baby was rocked in a turtle shell cradle that is still on display. There are large number of tapestries and a collection dedicated to Henry IV. Open all year apart from 1 Jan, 1 May and 25 Dec. Free shuttle bus from Place de Verdun car park. Details: www.chateau-pau.fr

Stroll the Boulevard des Pyrenees

Step back into the Belle Epoque when Pau town was a popular winter resort with wealthy travellers for its clean mountain air, multiple amenities, and elegant villas. Built from 1894 to 96, the Boulevard stands on a viaduct with large arcs supported by 49 piers. project was inspired by Jean-Charles Alphand, who wrote: “Pau lacks the Promenade des Anglais in Nice”. The boulevard was therefore conceived as a mountain replica of the Nice thoroughfare, a privileged place to “see and be seen”.

Pau Museum of Fine Arts

One of the biggest museums in the region, it houses both old and contemporary artworks from the 15th-20th centuries including work by Degas, Rubens and El Greco.

Enjoy a taste of the Béarn with a Pass Gourmand

Choose from 45 local food specialities from 22 craft producers in the Halles and around the town centre with a great value Pass Gourmand. Eat on site or take away. Includes macarons and chocolate, cheese and Jurançon wine.

Discover the French soldier who became King of Sweden

Musée Bernadotte is housed in the birthplace of the young soldier who became King of Sweden in 1810. Atmospheric property with wooden galleries overlooking cobbled courtyard.  Open daily except Monday and major public holidays.

Watch a sporting event

Le Grand Prix de Pau takes place around the city streets in May. And lovers of equestrian sport flock to the town in October for the 4* equestrian Three Day Event. Pau is also one of the top three towns to host the Tour de France, the first race having taken place in 1930. Cycling fans should head to the Tour des Géants statues of the winners of the Grande Boucle. There are loads of events each year in Pau. Find out more from the Tourist Office: https://www.pau-pyrenees.com/

Read our city focus article – what to see and do in Pau

Tourist Information: Visit www.tourismepau.com

Gillian Thornton is an award-winning travel writer specialising in French destinations and lifestyle and a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers.

The post 5 things to do in Pau appeared first on The Good Life France.

Capital of the historic Béarn in the Pyrenees-Atlantiques department, elegant Pau stands beneath the Pyrenees. Every major city has its iconic street. The boutique-lined boulevard. The monumental avenue. Or perhaps the quaint quarter fringed with historic houses. But few can boast anything to match the elegant city of Pau…

Pau’s must-do walkway is the Boulevard des Pyrenees, bordered on one side by imposing Belle Epoque apartment blocks and, on the other – yes, you guessed it – by the distant jagged peaks of the Pyrenees. But don’t hold your breath. You do need a modicum of luck to enjoy the spectacular backdrop to this wonderful high-level boulevard. Gillian Thornton discovers what to see and do in Pau…

Belle Epoque Boulevards

I’ve been to Pau twice before and on both occasions have found this rugged mountain frontier stubbornly hidden in cloud, so I’m delighted third-time round to see the mountains towering into the evening sky. I can even identify them, each one neatly labelled on the iron railings that fringe the south side of the Boulevard. Just line up the notch on the balustrade with the tall chimney on the old tramway factory below.

The Boulevard begins just a short walk from my stylish overnight accommodation at the Hôtel Parc Beaumont, which overlooks a glorious green space broken up by magnificent trees and tranquil lakes. Stay here during the legendary car races in May and you’ll have a front row seat on the action as the drivers race past. The rest of the year, this modern hotel is a tranquil base for exploring the town on foot.

Discover Pau

Pau owes much of its success to the British. First came Wellington’s soldiers who passed through in 1856 after the Napoleonic wars and liked what they saw. Many of them never left, settling down and establishing France’s very first golf course.  Scottish doctor Alexander Taylor extolled the virtues of the town’s clean air, and soon Europe’s well-to-do were arriving to enjoy the dance evenings, hunting parties, and buzzing social scene.

Their Belle Epoque villas still dot the town and fringe the Boulevard des Pyrénées, brainchild of engineer Jean Charles Alphand. In 1891, Alphand declared that ‘Pau should have its Promenade des Anglais of Nice’ and so he set about creating one.

Today this marvel of 19^th century engineering is a must-do amble with its mountain panorama and direct access into historic squares such as Place Royale, hub of the city since the 18^th century, and Square Georges V, created in the 1920s and ‘30s. Hang over that famous balustrade to see a reminder of the French cyclists who have passed through Pau on the Tour de France; their names and dates are painted on the tarmac of Avenue Napoléon Bonaparte beneath.

The upper and lower levels are linked in places by steps or a lift. But the most unusual transit is on board the free funicular. It was installed in 1908 to link the town centre with the railway station on the banks of the Pau de Gave. It runs every three minutes from early morning to mid-evening, afternoons only on Sundays.

At the foot of the Funicular near what was once the city’s cycle race track, 104 bronze totems tell the story of the Tour de France with anecdotes and archive photos. Pau hosted the event for the 71^st time in 2019. Every year, a new totem is added to Le Tour des Géants to celebrate the winner.

Castles, Towers and Legends

The Boulevard des Pyrénées comes to an end beneath Pau’s most emblematic monument, the gleaming white Château de Pau with its turrets, towers and balustrades. Significantly altered across the centuries, the castle saw the addition of a defensive brick keep by Gaston Fébus in the 14^th century. But its current appearance is largely due to significant 19th-century restoration under Louis-Philippe.

Look out for the Tour de la Monnaie, set slightly apart, and home to a royal mint until the French Revolution. And look down onto the geometric patterns of the Renaissance Gardens. Then head across the deep ditch via the Pont d’Honneur to the courtyard and main entrance. Inside, the birthplace of Henri de Bourbon – later Henri III of Navarre and Henri IV of France – houses rich collections of drawings, paintings and sculptures. And there’s an important collection of Louis XIV and Louis XV tapestries.

Opposite the castle entrance, the Hotel Sully is one of several aristocratic mansions in the Quartier du Château. Legends has it that brushing the Basset Hound door-knocker will mend a broken heart. More imposing buildings line Rue Joffre, formerly named simply Grande Rue, and now one of an increasing number of pedestrianised streets in the town centre.

City of suprises

But head down the steps behind the castle to discover the Hédas district. It’s one of the oldest parts of the city and recently given an urban makeover. Women once came here to fetch water from the Hédas brook, which now flows underground. Today, a pleasant walkway links play areas and tiny parks, nestled beneath the backs of multi-storied properties facing the mountains.

Pau is full of surprises and I discovered one of its best on Rue Tran, which runs parallel with Rue du Hédas. Just take a right up Rue des Cordeliers. Here the Musée Bernadotte recalls the extraordinary life of Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte. A humble solider born in Pau in 1870 he rose to become a Brigadier General under Napoleon Bonaparte. Such was his reputation that when Swedish king Charles XIII died without an heir in 1818, Bernadotte was invited to take the royal job. To this day, his descendants still reign in Stockholm. Quite some career path!

Gastronomic delights

Wandering deeper into the town, my back to the Pyrenees, I stopped off to savour the sights and smells of Les Halles. This gastronomic hub has been completely renovated since 2017. It’s now  clearly a popular venue with its wine bars, food stalls and escalators.

This ultra-modern market hall is an essential stop for anyone who, like me, has bought a Pass Gourmand. It’s a brilliant initiative that enables visitors to taste their way round the city in bite-sized pieces. More than 22 shops and food stalls throughout the city centre and within Les Halles serve some kind of iconic local flavour in return for a ticket. A sweet macaron, here. A date stuffed with foie gras there. And maybe a glass of Jurançon to wash it all down. Eat in, take away, or pack up your goodies for a gourmet picnic, perhaps with a view of the Pyrenees.

The famous umbrellas of Pau

Weather not to your liking? Not a problem if you drop by my last port of call. The unique Fabrique de Parapluies is a block away from Les Halles on the corner of Rue Montpensier and Rue Nogué. At the turn of the last century, shepherds would stop in Pau. Their sheep would graze on the current Place de Verdun, en route to and from the mountain pastures for summer grazing.

And here in Pau, they would catch up on repairs to their traditional umbrellas. Each one a lifelong companion which sheltered them from rain, sun and even lightning. Twenty years ago, Hervé Pando opened an umbrella workshop in Pau. And today his son Christophe is the last craftsman to hand-make traditional parapluies de bergers.

Fashioned from double-thickness proofed cotton with nine robust ribs, the umbrellas are guaranteed not to turn inside out. They can be held aloft hands-free, thanks to a round beech-wood handle that sits neatly in the shepherd’s pocket. The perfect accessory for any picnic – rain or shine – along the Boulevard des Pyrénées!

Pau Essentials

Getting there: By train: Daily TGV services to Paris, Toulouse and Bordeaux.  The SNCF station is in the lower town with funicular access to the town centre. By air: Pau airport is 13km from the town centre.  Fly to Pau from London-Heathrow with Air France.  Or to Toulouse (195km) or Biarritz (125km)

Where to stay and eat: Gillian stayed at the Hotel Parc Beaumont which has 75 rooms, a spa, gourmet restaurant, café, and private parking www.hotel-parc-beaumont.com.  She ate at Le Poulet à 3 Pattes, 26 Boulevard des Pyrénées – outside terrace or inside tables. For the loftiest view of all, book a stay at Le Belvédère AirBnB, a micro-maison with just one double bed, tiny kitchen and shower room in a glazed turret several storeys up  www.airbnb.com

Tourist Information: Visit www.tourismepau.com

Gillian Thornton is an award-winning travel writer specialising in French destinations and lifestyle and a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers.

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Perhaps all journeys through the Dordogne Valley should start with stuffing yourself with punnets of freshly picked strawberries. At least, that’s how I began my exploration of the Dordogne Valley’s beautiful villages…

I had arrived in Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne on the day of the town’s Fete de la Fraise, the strawberry festival that celebrates, well, strawberries.

Straddling the moss green waters of the Dordogne, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne turned out to be the perfect introduction to what was to come in the next few days, for I was about to embark on a self-guided walk through the Dordogne Valley with On Foot Holidays.

A land shaped by a river

The Dordogne Valley, in the region of Nouvelle-Aquitaine south western France, just to the east of Bordeaux, is named after the river that runs through it. Dotted with storybook villages filled with history, I was eager to discover every corner of the limestone cliffs and ancient castles that I had heard so much about.

To get acquainted with the river, I boarded a traditional Gabare – a flat bottomed boat – and found myself charmed by the river. The captain proudly declared to be the “most beautiful river in the world!”

Some might argue that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, as the Dordogne lacks the wildness of the Loire and the electric glacial blue of the Rhone. It’s certainly not considered an ‘exciting’ river, yet there is a certain calmness and serenity about the gentle flow westwards towards the Atlantic Ocean that draws you in.

Fuelled by strawberries and the comforting knowledge that my luggage would be safely transported to my accommodation for the night, I set off on my journey.

Beautiful villages galore

With only four days to discover the area, the village of Autoire is where I began my walk, instead of Beaulieu. My route would have me pretty much following the curves of the Dordogne, in and out of valley beds, up and down the steep cliffs, through farmlands and villages that may or may not register as a dot on Google Maps.

My guide and driver dropped me off in the medieval centre of Autoire before disappearing with my luggage towards Carennac. Just like Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, this is another village part of the Plus Beaux Village de France collection, and is certainly as pretty as a painting. I followed the route map and soon found myself in narrow valley tracks heading towards a waterfall, before ascending a steep rocky path up to Chateau des Anglais (which has nothing to do with the English as it turns out). It clings onto the cliff face like an eagles nest.

Without being on foot, I would not have discovered these locations let alone being able to enjoy the vantage point the chateau offers of the surrounding valley. It was the most perfect of days, with cloudless blue sky against the verdant hills, clusters of villages below. At merely an hour into my journey I was already smitten.

Wandering and wondering

What appeals to me about self-guided walking, is that I am able to be a little bit independent. While the walking pack provided the most updated maps and directions, I enjoy the process of getting lost, then finding my way again. The ability to choose, when you feel like it, a longer or a shorter path, can reveal different experiences to the traveller.

Given the option, I almost always chose the wilder route. This took me on walks among forests and meadows so I could be as close to the wild as possible. I was alone, yes, but not as alone as you would think. Nature was all around me and the air rich in the scent of acacias and roses. Bees buzzed, butterflies fluttered. Buzzards circled above my head and the forest echoed with the knocking of woodpeckers. Deer, foxes, rabbits and even an owl accompanied me along my walk.

Though some may worry about the concept of ‘self-guided’ walks, there’s nothing to fear. At the beginning of my walk, I conscientiously checked and over-checked the directions and maps in case I took the wrong turn. However, just a day into my walk, I let go of the need to control and simply followed the hiking tracks posted along trees and telegraph posts. I only checked my guide text occasionally to confirm details.

There is something very special being able to walk alone through storybook forests, cliff top tracks and country paths lined with moss covered stone walls. Passing in and out of communes so quaint and quiet, the crunch of my hiking boots on gravel seem to penetrate every window of a sleepy village. Through this journey along the route of the river, I relished being completely immersed into such a beautiful, rural part of France.

Rocamadour and beautiful towns

Having stayed in the cute La Petite Auberge in Carennac, my tour took me to Floirac before progressing into Meyronne to stay in an old castle right on the bank of the river. From here I was able to take a close look at the river and the surrounding limestone cliffs.

What a sight.

My walk eventually ended at the impressive village of Rocamadour, with its grand churches and chapels built into the cliffs. It’s on the pilgrimage route, the ‘Way of St James’ and is a place of religious importance, it’s believed miracles happen here. The 216 steps leading to the medieval complex of churches, chapels and courtyards is hard on the knees but worth the effort..

Of all its history and stories, I found myself most intrigued by the small chapel dedicated to injured rugby players in this area famous for its love of rugby.

At dinner on the balcony of my hotel, watching the evening sun wash the cliff golden red, I felt a sense of accomplishment. There is much more to discover in the Dordogne Valley, but in slow and steady steps, I got to know it intimately, and the experience was truly soul lifting.

Amy McPherson was hosted by www.onfootholidays.co.uk

Amy McPherson is a London based travel writer whose work has been featured in international publications. Cats, cycling and food features heavily in her writing and her blog at: www.footprintsandmemories.com

The post A walking holiday in the Dordogne Valley appeared first on The Good Life France.

Bordeaux makes for an ideal winter city break with museums galore, a brilliant food scene and of course – fabulous wines…

What to do in the city of Bordeaux in winter

In the city of Bordeaux, one of the top must sees is the Cité du Vin – it is extraordinary. Whether you’re a wine lover or not, this museum is entertaining, fascinating and delicious. Innovative displays – boxes on the walls come to life at the push of a button! – take you through the history of wine from millennia ago to today. Included in the price is a wine tasting on the 8th floor with fabulous views over the city. Head to the 7th floor for lunch, dinner, a snack, coffee or wine. Here, the terrific restaurant Le 7 has superb views over the city, wine savvy  staff and a delectable menu.

Bassins des Lumieres

Art in a former German U-Boat pen… unusual for sure but utterly incredible. It’s an immersive experience that is somehow strangely spiritual featuring some of the world’s best known artists. There’s also a contemporary art section. This enormous bunker is five times larger than the Atelier des Lumières in Paris.  It covers 11,000 square metres, and is one of the world’s largest multimedia installations. Read more about the Bassins des Lumieres here

Wander

Wander the streets of old Bordeaux where the UNESCO listed Neoclassical architecture is magnificent. Enjoy a night at the Opera in the city’s famous opera house or visit museums galore. There’s the Natural History Museum, Contemporary Art Museum, Science Museum and Maritime Museum.

The shopping is second to none (if you’re there in January the sales are fabulous). In fact it’s home to the longest pedestrianised shopping street in Europe.

Nip to Saint-Emilion, wine Mecca of Bordeaux. It’s just 30 minutes by train from the city centre to the outskirts of Saint-Emilion and from there about a 20 minute walk. Discover what to do in Saint-Emilion.

Eat out in Bordeaux

With thousands of superb restaurants, this is a city that gives Lyon, often called the capital of gastronomy in France, a run for its money. Local specialities include tourin bordelaise, an onion soup thickened with egg yolks, entrecôte Bordelaise, steak with a rich red wine sauce, and canelé, a soft cake with rum and vanilla flavoured filling. Really spoil yourself with the most popular treat in the city – a “Dune Blanche”. Get these delicious little sweet pastries filled with cream, exclusively from Chez Pascal, 7 Rue de la Vieille Tour. Read our guide to eating out in Bordeaux

Wine tasting in Bordeaux

Bordeaux wines are amongst the most prestigious in the world. Rich, voluptuous, spicy reds and soft whites from legendary vineyards such as St-Emilion, Margaux and Blaye. Read our Wine Lovers Guide to Bordeaux to discover the best vineyards and tasting opps.

Take a wine tasting at: Maison Gobineau. They have every kind of Bordeaux wine and the prices will blow you away – 2 Euros for a superb red, in stunning surroundings, think 18th century building, Aubusson tapestry and stained-glass. Simply the best in town. (1 Cours du 30 Juillet)

Wine and dine at: Le Chapon Fin, the magnificent Belle Epoque dining room created in 1825 has true wow factor. The former 3 Michelin Star restaurant changed chefs a short while ago, and as a result, the prices went down but the food is just as delicious as ever and the wine cellar is a marvel (www.chapon-fin.com).

www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk

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