Nestled in Normandy’s deep south, the Perche Regional Nature Park offers tranquil forests, bijou communities, and some seriously impressive horsepower. Gillian Thornton steps down a gear.

Pottering around the Perche

Ask me to describe my perfect destination for a spot of rest and relaxation and I’ll usually plump for rolling countryside, historic villages, and cosy restaurants. Add in a few independent shops or markets for some gentle retail therapy and you’ve almost ticked all my boxes. Only thing missing would be some kind of animal content, preferably with an activity attached.

So as I jolt happily down a woodland track in a horse-drawn open carriage, I have to say that the Perche Regional Natural Park (PNR) offers everything I need for the perfect chill-out break. Located in the south-east corner of Normandy, the Perche is just 140km from Paris, making it a popular weekend destination for city dwellers as well as for cross-Channel visitors.

Percheron horses

Most of the park lies within the department of Orne, spilling over into the Centre region east of Nogent-le-Rotrou, and its protected status covers both natural scenery and built landscape, heritage sites and rural traditions. Amongst those traditions is the Percheron heavy horse, believed to date back to the 11^th century when Rotrou, Count of the Perche, brought Arabian stallions back from the First Crusade and crossed them with local heavy horses.

Usually grey, but occasionally black, Percherons are good-natured, gentle, and ideally suited to working the forests and small hedge-lined fields or bocage of southern Normandy. Once a common sight on farms throughout the area, their numbers declined sharply as agriculture became increasingly mechanised between the wars.  But now, thanks to a group of dedicated enthusiasts, breeding is steadily on the up.

Since the early 1990s, Percheron stallions imported from America have been bred with French mares to produce two main types – a draught horse used for farming and hauling timber, and a lighter animal used for riding, driving and competitions. As someone who has ridden all my life but rarely experienced carriage driving, I booked a two-hour excursion from the Ferme de l’Absoudière in Cordon for a taste of traditional horsepower. And what power! Seated up beside the driver, I watch two sets of powerful hindquarters sway rhythmically to the sound of jangling harness as we trot down country lanes and forest tracks. It’s a magical if slightly bumpy way to travel!

The best of rural Normandy

But horsepower is just one way to explore the Perche. There’s a wealth of inspiration at the Maison du Parc, administrative centre and visitor facility for the Regional Nature Park which stands in the grounds of the Manoir du Courboyer, a 15^th century turreted manor house a short drive from Cordon at Nocé. Meet other local livestock breeds, buy artisan products, and sample regional farm produce such as cider, honey and cheese.

This rural corner of Normandy is bisected by the GR22 and GR35, two Grande Randonnée long distance hiking trails, as well as the Chemin de Chartres leading to Mont-Saint-Michel. Or try the 220km Tour des Collines du Perche which splits neatly into eight segments for walkers and four for cycle tourists. Too energetic? Then follow one of nine tranquil driving routes that include Forests and Abbeys, Chateaux and Lakes, and Valleys and Mills.

The Perche may be a rural area of farmland and forest, but it also boasts a long industrial heritage. The woods provided charcoal, the rivers powered mills and foundries, and the ground yielded raw materials of iron and clay. Watch out for the label Savoir-faire du Parc Naturel Régional du Perche to identify crafts people still using local materials.

Nothing in the Perche proves to be much more than an hour from my base at the delightful Hôtel du Tribunal at Mortagne-au-Perche, a buzzing market town of just 4,500 inhabitants that was once the administrative centre for the Counts of Perche. Today the medieval rampart walls have mostly gone but the historic streets are still dotted with fine buildings, not to mention 27 sundials. Follow the numbered panels on the Circuit du Patrimoine and prepare for some surprises.

The modern medical facility, for instance, has retained the exquisite cloister of a 16^th century convent. Take in the wooden roof timbers shaped like an upturned boat before heading inside the vast painted chapel. Enjoy the panoramic countryside views from the public gardens behind the Town Hall and maybe sample the town’s signature foodie treat – black pudding. Every producer has his own secret recipe. The Saturday morning market is also loaded with local foodie temptation, an atmospheric way to absorb the area’s gastronomic traditions.

A land of giant trees

The Perche forests are full of impressive giant trees – particularly oak and beech – but equally arresting are the lofty twin towers of the Chappelle de Montligeon, built between 1896 and 1911 by parish priest Abbé Buguet. His aim was to deliver souls left in purgatory and promote social justice and whilst the basilica is today a place of pilgrimage, it is also a business centre based on the printing works that he founded. Pop inside to admire the stained-glass windows.

Local commerce is largely small scale. Expect small, artisan businesses such as antique dealers and galleries, bookshops, woodworkers, and furniture restorers, not to mention family-run restaurants and tea rooms. Outside Mortagne-au-Perche, I find Chez Nous Campagne, where Cécile Schmitt combines a boutique selling interior décor items with a tearoom and gîte business, all in one tempting package.

And there is more retail temptation in Bellême, former capital of the Perche, and in nearby La Perrière. Both have been labelled Petites Cités de Caractère by the Orne department along with Longny-au-Perche. Gifts to take home? Try La Savonnerie de La Chappelle in Bellême for soaps, candles, and a whole lot more, and don’t miss Chocolaterie Bataille, where artisan chocolate-maker Christophe Henninger creates seasonal chocolates for every occasion. In La Perrière, browse for local produce, antiques, and dried flowers at Monteloup, a stylish boutique with three chambre d’hôte bedrooms upstairs run by antique dealer Jérôme and expert florist Gil.

Nogent-le-Rotrou

Largest town in the Perche is Nogent-le-Rotrou, just over the regional border in the department of Eure-et-Loir. Classified amongst Michelin’s 100 Plus Beaux Détours de France, this historic community of fewer than 10,000 people stands in the Huisne valley, dominated by Saint-Jean Castle which was once home to – you guessed it – the Counts of Perche. Stroll through the reconstructed medieval and Renaissance gardens around the castle and Bellême’s Belle Epoque public gardens, just two of many floral plots that welcome visitors throughout the Perche.

Thiron Abbey

Head east from Nogent to visit Thiron-Gardais, home to Thiron Abbey.  Founded in the 12^th century, the buildings were largely destroyed after the Revolution but the abbey itself still acts as the parish church and access to the thematic gardens is free. Or head west, back towards Bellême to visit the Ecomusée du Perche within the ancient walls of the 11^th century priory of Sainte-Gauburge at Saint-Cyr-la-Rosière.

Whichever way you turn, the Perche is a delight for anyone who wants to step down a gear and relax amongst tranquil countryside and atmospheric villages. A breath of fresh air whichever way you look at it!

Useful websites:

www.normandie-tourisme.fr
www.parc-naturel-perche.fr/en
www.ornetourisme.com

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers.

This article was first published in The Good Life France Magazine

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

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Packed with medieval history but with a buzzing contemporary vibe, Normandy’s regional capital is a stunning destination for a city break. Easily reached by car from the Channel ports, by train from Paris, and by river cruise along the Seine, it’s many attractions are matched by the glorious surrounding area.

Saint-Maclou

It’s not every day that you sit down to dinner in a medieval cemetery. But then Rouen’s Aître Saint-Maclou is no ordinary burial ground. Surrounded by an ossuary gallery – a repository for storing bones – this extraordinarily tranquil spot is one of just four to survive in France. And it’s a must-see for any visitor to this captivating city.

Far from being macabre, the Aître Saint-Maclou is a classic example of how Rouen uses its rich history to educate, entertain and enthuse 21^st century visitors. And when your city has connections to Joan of Arc and Gustave Flaubert, Claude Monet and the Impressionist artists, you have plenty of material to work with.

Rouen was ravaged by the Black Death in the mid-14^th century.  Already weakened by the ongoing battles with England in what came to be called The Hundred Years War, the city struggled to keep pace with the mortality rate. The Aître Saint-Maclou helped solve the problem. First as a mass grave, then with the addition of a galleried ossuary where bones could be stored in the roof trusses.

Atmospheric half-timbered galleries

Street children and beggars began to congregate here and traders set up fruit stalls. In 1778, the Aître closed as a cemetery and morphed into a location for charity-run schools. Walk through the galleries today with their ornate carved columns and you can almost hear the shouts of Rouen’s poor children at play. Come back in the evening when the site is closed to casual visitors to dine at Café Hamlet within those atmospheric half-timbered galleries.

Saint-Maclou was one of many pleasant surprises when I made a long overdue return to Rouen as part of a touring holiday by car. The Radisson Blu Centre proved a great base with its underground car park and popular restaurant. It’s easily accessed off the perimeter road and an easy walk to the historic centre through a network of pedestrian streets.

Rouen Cathedral

I clearly remembered the flamboyant carved façade of the city’s cathedral. Or did it just seem familiar from some 30 paintings made by Claude Monet in differing lights? Many were painted from an upstairs room in the former House of Exchequer. It’s now the Tourist Information Office – at the corner of the pedestrianised square in front of this towering Gothic monument.

Take advantage of one of the free telescopes around the square for a close up view of the west front that Monet would surely have envied. Then head inside to see a monument to English king Richard the Lionheart. His body lies in the Plantagenet necropolis at Fontevraud, but his heart is buried here in Rouen.

Medieval buildings and historic landmarks

The half-timbered buildings were certainly familiar to me in the streets behind the cathedral that lead to the Church of Saint-Maclou. But twenty years on from my last visit, they seemed brighter and better maintained, clearly the result of ongoing restoration. I walked beneath the colourful facades of 14^th century houses. Indulged in a scrumptious cake at Dame Cakes by the cathedral. And wandered through the lofty interior of Saint-Ouen Church.

Like many French cities, Rouen is dotted with churches. Some are big, some small, and some utterly unique like the Joan of Arc church in the Place du Vieux Marché. A peasant girl from the Vosges, Joan claimed that God had instructed her to support Charles, heir to the French throne, against the English. But she was captured by their allies, the Burgundians. She was tried in the Archbishop’s Palace at Rouen and condemned to death.

Joan was burnt at the stake in the Old Market Place in 1431. Today a modern church built in 1979 stands next to the covered market at the place where she breathed her last. Unprepossessing from the outside, the church is a different story inside. It is dappled with colour from a multi-coloured wall of brilliant medieval stained glass.

Discover Joan’s dramatic story at the immersive experience that is the Historial Jeanne d’Arc. A digital journey through a second trial that took place here in 1456 in the very spot where she was tried the first time. Headsets provide the commentary in English from an array of ‘talking heads.’ As you move from room to room, you really get the feeling that you are in on the decision that was made to pardon the ‘Maid of Orleans’. Absorbing and instructive with no previous Joan knowledge necessary.

Museums and monuments

Wander the streets to take in other monuments. You can’t miss the Gros Horloge, an enormous 14^th century clock. It has one of the oldest clock mechanisms in Europe. La Maison Sublime is the oldest Jewish monument in France. Walk or cycle along the quaysides beside the Seine. Bowse Rouen’s rich offering of high street retailers and specialist boutiques, liberally dotted with tempting places to eat and drink.

But leave time too for some of the city’s eight free museums. I loved the eclectic mix on display in the Antiquities Museum. It includes a Roman mosaic, an Egyptian mummy and Greek pottery. And the Natural History Museum boasts one of the most diverse collections in France.

But top slot for me goes to the Impressionist collection within the Fine Arts Museum. Works by Monet, of course, but Pissarro, Renoir and Sisley too, who all painted in the city and surrounding area. One of the most important Impressionist collections outside Paris, it is a highlight of one of France’s most delightful cities.

Further information from www.rouentourisme.com

Beyond the city centre

A few days at your disposal? Follow the meanders of the Seine to east and west, by car or maybe by bike. Heading east, the Route des Abbayes links ecclesiastical gems such as the Abbey of Saint-Pierre de Jumièges. 30 km from the city centre it hosts contemporary art exhibitions amongst the ruins. And Saint-Georges de Boscherville has lovely terraced abbey gardens. And buy seasonal fruit, jams and jellies along the Route des Fruits between Duclair and Notre-Dame de Bliquetuit. Here the microclimate favours all manner of orchard fruits.

Head east for the ruins of Château Gaillard. The strategic fortress was built by Richard the Lionheart on a hilltop beside the Seine at Les Andeleys, 40 km from Rouen. Another 30 km brings you to Giverny. Here you can visit the legendary house and garden of Impressionist supremo Claude Monet. Walk amongst the flower beds and spend time in the house he shared with his wife and children. Stroll around the famous lily pond that featured in so many vast canvasses painted towards the end of his long life. Try to visit early or late in the day, or outside peak season, to enjoy this magical plot without the international crowds.

For a different kind of Norman countryside, drive east from Rouen for 35 km. Pass through a glorious beech forest to Lyons-la-Forêt, an enchanting village of half-timbered and brick houses. It is deservedly classified amongst Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. Find out more at www.lyons-andelle-tourisme.com

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Ouistreham in the apple-growing department of Calvados in Normandy, is steeped in history and has a jolly seaside air to it. It’s a great place to stroll with a long promenade, a fabulous fish market and a charming town.

Ouistreham’s Riva-Bella beach is a listed seaside resort known as the ‘ Pearl of the Côte de Nacre’ (mother of pearl). It has an air of yesteryear with its endless stretch of sandy beaches along the English Channel, beautiful Belle Epoque and Art Deco villas, little wooden bathing cabins and gently sloping beach.

A historic seaside town

Made popular by Parisians at the end of the 19^th century with the train journey taking just 6 hours, it took its name from the first beautiful villa built there. In 1866 a Monsieur Longpré built a house at no. 53 rue Pasteur, he called it Belle Rive. When his friend, a painter, came to stay, he found the sunsets on the coast were as beautiful as those he had seen on his travels in Italy and he nicknamed the villa ‘Riva Bella’.

Many more architecturally stunning houses were built here (if you play Sims World, you might spot a Ouistreham villa on the vacation home list!). It reminds me of its glamorous neighbour Deauville though Ouistreham is smaller, more tranquil and less celebrated. It does though, like Deauville, have a casino. It’s a great base if you’re visiting this area of Normandy as well as an ideal weekend getaway. It also makes for a great day out if you’re in nearby Caen.

What to see in Ouistreham

Ouistreham is a town made for strolling. Breathing in the fresh air, taking in the sights – it’s as invigorating as it’s interesting. The seaside walkway from Lion-sur-Mer to Hermanville-sur-Mer, follows the route of the Via Turonensi, part of the  Santiago de Compostela. The walk is lined with many lovely houses dating from the Second Empire – the regime of Napoleon III, whose legacy is also present in the canal he commissioned which connects Caen marina to Ouistreham.

There are fabulous views from Ouistreham Lighthouse if you climb the 171 granite steps to the top. Look out over Ouistreham’s bijou ferry port, and on a clear day you can see as far as Mont-Saint-Michel. You’ll also have panoramic views over the coastline and historic Sword Beach, the most easterly of the D-Day landing beaches and the only beach where French forces took part on 6 June 1944, led by Commando Philippe Kieffer.

Historic sites

Traces of the past can be seen in many places in and around Ouistreham. The famous Pegasus Bridge is just 10 minutes away by car. Memorials abound, including one in honour of Piper Bill Millin, the soldier who landed on Sword Beach playing the bagpipes. Le Grand Bunker, a former German command post is now a fascinating museum and listed historic monument.

The Musée du Debarquement no. 4 (No. 4 Commando Museum) preserves the memory of the 1st Battalion of Naval Fusiliers. It was set up by Commander Philippe Kieffer which, incorporated in the British No 4 Commando, was the only French unit to take part in the Normandy landings. The Hillman Site was one of the biggest German command posts during WWII. In the summer months, ‘Friends of the Suffolk Regiment’ Association are on site to tell stories of the past. It’s an engaging place to visit – especially for history lovers.

Tales of the past and markets

Take an audio guided tour called La Délicate – Ouistreham. It’s an unusual format – the guide is contained in an umbrella! The tour takes in the beaches and streets of Ouistreham. It tells the history of the town through stories and memories of those who lived here. Or take a ride! There are several cycle routes along the canal to Caen, including the route of the Vélo Francette which begins in La Rochelle and ends in Ouistreham.

A daily fish market is held in Ouistreham. Friendly stall holders pile up the days haul including the most delicious scallops – which this area is famous for. Enjoy the freshest fish dishes in the many restaurants and brasseries, washed down with local cider. And polish it off with ice cream and locally made salted caramel. Try La Table d’Hotes  where Chef Yoann serves creative, seasonal dishes. Or  push the boat out at La Voile Blanche overlooking the sea.

This is also a great area for nature lovers. To the east of Ouistreham Riva-Bella, is the Pointe du Siege and Orne estuary, the largest nature area in Calvados. Dunes, marshes, salt meadows and forests are home to many wild birds and seals.

Info: Tourist office website

How to get there: Caen ferry port is in Ouistreham (15km from Caen) and ferries run from/to Portsmouth. The nearest train station is Caen and buses run regularly between the two towns.

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The Alabaster Coast of Normandy in northern France made a big impact on the Impressionist painters. Gillian Thornton took a scenic coastal drive to find out why.

Stretching from Le Tréport in the north to Le Havre in the south, the dramatic coastline of Seine-Maritime earns its name – the Côte d’Albâtre – from the towering white chalk cliffs that dominate the undulating shoreline. The Impressionists loved a chalk cliff so as a big fan of their work, I’ve come to see for myself the landscapes they loved.

Le Treport

Heading down by car from Calais, I cross from the Hauts-de-France region into Normandy at Le Tréport on the Bresle estuary. Walk the bustling quayside and relax on the beach. Don’t miss the funicular up the chalk cliffs to enjoy sweeping views over coast and countryside. I’m no painter but already I can understand why artists are captivated by the big skies and ever-changing light here.

Eu

Don’t leave Le Tréport without taking a mini-detour to Eu, a small inland town of just 7,000 residents. Eu’s chateau was a favourite home of France’s last king, Louis Philippe. It’s here that Queen Victoria and Prince Albert stayed in 1843 for the signing of the first Entente Cordiale, a diplomatic agreement between France and Great Britain. Louis-Philippe lived his final years in exile in England after being forced to abdicate in 1848. However his beautifully restored Norman mansion still boasts exquisite parquet floors, a priceless art collection, and extensive gardens. Nor was Victoria the only English monarch to make her mark on Eu. William of Normandy married Matilda of Flanders here in the Cathedral of Notre Dame, some 15 years before they became King and Queen of England in 1066.

Dieppe

Back on the coast road, I stop in the bustling fishing port of Dieppe. Its deep water harbour is protected by those signature white cliffs. France’s first ever seaside resort, Dieppe became popular with Parisians from 1822. This got it the attention of Impressionists such as Camille Pissaro who painted the inner harbour in 1902. Look out for reproductions of Impressionist paintings all along the Alabaster Coast in the exact places where the artists placed their easels.

Today Dieppe is classified as a French Art and History Town. , I stop to learn about its seafaring and trading traditions, as well as its Impressionist connections at the museum in the hilltop castle. Just west of Dieppe is Varengeville-sur-Mer. Here you’ll find the 12^th century church of St Valery, renowned for its coastal views and sailors’ cemetery. Master Impressionist Claude Monet painted the exterior of St Valery from many angles, but look inside too. The Tree of Jesse stained glass window is the work of Georges Braque who died in 1963 and is buried in the churchyard.

Veules-les-Roses

For a very small place, Veules-les-Roses packs a pretty picturesque punch. There are period cottages and ancient watermills, seaside villas and a sandy beach. And there are more clues in the name. Nestled in the wooded valley through which La Veules, France’s shortest river, runs, the narrow streets are splashed with the colour of roses of every hue during the summer months.

Victor Hugo was a big fan of the village, coming here regularly in the late 19^th century. One hundred and fifty years later, Veules-les-Roses is still popular. It’s a gem of the Alabaster Coast and the only community in the Seine-Maritime department of Normandy that is classified amongst the Plus Beaux Villages de France.

Fécamp

Beyond Veules-les-Roses, bustling with visitors on market day, I find another Valery, the pretty port of St-Valery-en-Caux with its small harbour nestled between high chalk cliffs. Then it’s on to the fishing port of Fécamp. Hardy fishermen in centuries past set off from Fécamp and Dieppe to fish for cod off Newfoundland. Discover their story at the excellent Fisheries Museum, housed in a converted fish-smoking and packing building beside the harbour.

There are circular views from the seventh floor roof terrace. You’ll get a tantalising glimpse of the extraordinary Benedictine Palace in the heart of the old town. Benedictine liqueur was reputedly created in the 16^th century by a Benedictine monk named Dom Bernado Vincelli, using a secret mix of 27 plants and spices.

The formula was lost in the French Revolution. But in 1863, local wine merchant Alexandre Le Grand found the recipe! He recreated the drink, and commissioned a flamboyant turreted mansion in its honour. A combination of museum and art gallery, it holds the distinction of being the world’s only distillery for Benedictine liqueur.

Le Grand’s art collection spans sacred to modern art and is as eclectic as the building he commissioned.

Etretat

Every new coastal view reminds me why the Impressionist painters were so enamoured of Normandy’s light and landscape. But the place I most want to see with my own eyes is Etretat with its famous rock arch attached to the Aval cliff. I’m thrilled to catch a distant view over a sunset aperitif in the garden of the Domaine de Saint-Clair hotel just outside town. However I’m gutted next morning to wake to thick sea mist. Despite the June heatwave, Monet’s iconic subject is barely visible, even from the beach.

But after my initial disappointment I console myself with the thought that Monet loved to capture changing weather conditions. If I look on this as a Moody Monet Moment, 50 Shades of Grey suddenly takes on a very different connotation!

As the sun burns off the morning mist, I head up to the Amont cliff to visit the magical Etretat Gardens. This extraordinary topiary garden includes – no surprise – a reproduction in wicker of Monet at work, complete with palette and easel.

Le Havre

My final stop on the Alabaster Coast is somewhere I’ve never really wanted to go, but feel I really should. Le Havre. This busy commercial port at the mouth of the Seine was bombed to near oblivion during World War II, leaving 80,000 homeless. Little remains of the original town. It was also the accidental birthplace of Impressionism in 1872 when Claude Monet painted a shadowy picture entitled ‘Impression. Sunrise’, dubbed by a disparaging art critic as Impressionism.

Thanks to the vision of celebrated architect August Perret and his team, Le Havre was rebuilt in the 1950s with broad avenues, public open spaces, and concrete apartment blocks. But despite the city’s UNESCO World Heritage status, I’ve never had any great desire to see it. Big mistake. The innovative period design turns out to be far more attractive than I imagined. Don’t miss the church of St Joseph, Perret’s masterpiece, nor the Perret Show Flat, full of 1950’s nostalgia.

But the real treat for me is MuMa – the Museum of Modern Art André Malrau. It houses the second-largest Impressionist collection outside Paris. The young Monet was encouraged by established artist Eugène Boudin from nearby Honfleur, widely considered as the ‘master of skies’ for his seascapes with racing clouds and wide horizons. Boudin never considered himself an Impressionist but he takes his rightful place here in Le Havre’s glorious quayside museum alongside Monet and his contemporaries.

Thanks to those pioneer painters, art lovers all over the world have discovered the beauty of Normandy’s Alabaster Coast. See it with your own eyes however, and you might just find yourself reaching for the paintbox!

Getting there

Sail direct to Normandy with DFDS (Newhaven-Dieppe) and Brittany Ferries (Portsmouth to Le Havre and Caen-Ouistreham. Le Havre is just over 2 hours by train from Paris St Lazare. For visitor information, see www.seine-maritime-tourism.com

Gillian Thornton is a writer who specialises in France and lifestyle.

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Normandy spreads over a sizeable chunk of northern France. And, with enough sights and activities to keep even the pickiest tourist happy for weeks, how do you choose what to see?

We asked Peter Perantonakis who lives in Normandy and runs tours for TripUSAFrance for his top Normandy must-sees.

Mont Saint-Michel

Mont Saint Michel is easily my favourite place in France and possibly the most inspiring place I have ever visited. An island when the tides come in, Mont Saint-Michel was originally built in 709 AD after Saint Michael the Archangel appeared to a Bishop and commanded a church to be built. It was added to continuously from the 11th to the 15th centuries and has everything you could wish for in an abbey or a castle. The entire “island” is completely covered by small shops, cobbled streets, and breath-taking views, all winding up to the impressive Gothic monastery at its heart. The soaring spires and beautiful stonework make you feel as if you’ve stepped back to medieval times.

Monet’s Garden

Claude Monet was one of the world’s most influential painters. Known for championing impressionism, he is perhaps most well-known for his massive and mesmerizing paintings of waterlilies. Luckily for us, the very water lilies he painted can be seen in person at Monet’s garden at Giverny. Attached to his home, which is now a museum, the gardens themselves are calm and beautiful and the destination is sure to inspire.

Bayeux

Bayeux is one of the best places to stay in Normandy. It is a charming town that retained its old architecture by closely escaping destruction as the Allied bombing of the city was called off at the last minute and it became the first liberated city of France during the D-Day invasions. It boasts historic buildings, streets littered with local shops and restaurants and a magnificent Cathedral.  And you can’t miss the Bayeux tapestry. It’s 230 feet (70 M) long and is over 940 years old. There are 50 scenes hand embroidered on it and it is widely renowned as both an impressive piece of art and an important piece of history.

Etretat

Etretat links Le Havre to Le Treport on the coast. Famous for its white limestone cliffs, a scene that captured the imagination of some of the great impressionist artists such as Claude Monet, Boudin and Courbet.

Cathedral of Rouen

The Rouen Cathedral is one of the best things to see in Normandy for anyone who loves Gothic architecture, or architecture in general. Built in the late 12th through early 16th centuries, the cathedral boasts the tallest church tower in France and some truly stunning stained glass. The intricate stonework and soaring ceilings are sure to inspire a sense of awe and send you home with some great pictures.

Seafood in Dieppe

Normandy is famous for its seafood and one of the best places to eat it is Dieppe, founded in 1030 and famous for its scallops. There’s also a fabulous market, voted favourite market of the French.

Visit a market

Normandy’s towns and villages host hundreds of markets. Two of the best are in Caen on Friday and Sunday mornings. And while you’re there, don’t miss a visit to the castle ruins, museums and memorials.

Remember the lost at the American Cemetery of D-Day Beach

The American storming of the beaches on D-Day toward the end of WWII played a major role in the outcome of the war. Over 9,000 service men and women, many of whom who died in the D-Day landings, are buried in the cemetery. An additional 1,557 names of missing service members are carved into a memorial. The cemetery is both beautiful and harrowing with row after row of white crosses showing the cost of war. Taking time to visit the cemetery is a profound way to honour those who died defending the cause of freedom.

Go to a Calvados tasting

While most of France is known for their wine, Normandy is known for Calvados. Calvados is a delicious brandy liquor made from apples which are grown in the region instead of grapes. There is a fondness throughout France for this special drink. Calvados distillation dates to the 1500’s and is a cultural staple of Normandy, along with cider. Arranging a tour with a family distillery will ensure you taste not only the fruity flavour of Calvados but also its rich history.

Go to a Cheese factory to taste some Camembert

Anyone who loves cheese has surely heard of Camembert, and then immediately began craving its creamy smooth texture and unique taste. Visit the birthplace of this amazing cheese and, if you really want to try it at its best, you owe it to yourself to go to a cheese tasting. Still not convinced? If you do a cheese tasting you’ll get to try not only Camembert but also a ton of other French cheese while in France.

Walk along the beach in Deauville

If you’re looking for a day in the sun or a romantic evening Deauville beach is sure to impress. With its colourful umbrellas and sparkling casino, the beach hosts everything from horse races to film festivals. Take a stroll along the iconic boardwalk or just sit and watch the waves. Either way, Deauville will make you feel like a million bucks.

Le Havre

All but destroyed during WWII, Le Havre built back in a modern and truly unique way. A major freight docks just across the mouth of the Seine, the architecture is astonishing.

Visit the Beaux Arts museum of Rouen

Housing an impressive renaissance collection and a beautiful sculpture garden, the Beaux Arts museum holds some truly stunning pieces. Boasting works from every school of art from the 15th to the 21st century, the collection is stunning and frequently loaned out to other museums. The vast range of styles means that whether your taste is medieval or modern, something will speak to you. Whether you’re looking to spend an afternoon or a whole day, the Beaux Arts museum will satisfy your inner artist.

Discover Normandy’s prettiest villages

Normandy has six recognised Plus Beaux Villages, officially the prettiest villages in France. Barfleur, Lyons-la-Foret, Beuvron-en-Auge, Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei, Veules-les-Roses and Le Bec-Hellouin.

Wander around the Honfleur Port and Downtown

Honfleur is a historic city with a picture-perfect port. The facades of the homes stacked along the harbour have been the inspiration for many famous painters including Monet. In fact, the play of light and colour on the water is so beautiful that it’s here that the Honfleur School helped launch the Impressionist movement. The city itself has several museums and a beautiful historic feel. Completing your trip to Honfleur with a dinner in a local cafe is the perfect conclusion to a relaxing day.

Take an 8 day tour of Normandy with TripUSAFrance to experience the very best of this exquisite region.

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Think of Caen and most likely the things that pop into your mind will include William the Conqueror, whose power base was here, and Caen Memorial.

Caen is the biggest city in, as well as the capital of, lower Normandy. It’s a town with a vibrant vibe, history, grand architecture, a fantastic foodie culture and a real community spirit which is all about the markets.

There is a market every day of the week here, but the two big ones are on Friday and Sunday mornings…

The Market of Saint-Sauveur

The Friday morning market in Place Saint-Sauveur is a stone’s throw from the famous Abbaye aux Hommes, built as a penance by William the Conqueror. The Pope excommunicated the then Duke of Normandy William for marrying his cousin Matilda of Flanders in 1053, but he was forgiven by founding the Abbey in 1063. Meanwhile Matilda founded the nearby Abbaye aux Dames in about 1060. Both buildings, one to each side of the castle of Caen, were paid for with booty stolen from England. And both Matilda and William were interred in their abbeys. Marble plaques mark the spots, though William’s now only contains a single thigh bone. The rest of his bones were scattered during the French Revolution.

Early on a sunny Friday morning, I explored the market which spills out of Place Saint-Sauveur the oldest square in the city and into the roads around. It’s probably the oldest market in Caen too. Though the date for when it started isn’t known, the market is mentioned in documents from the time of Richard II, William the conqueror’s grandfather.

Truly divine

About 250 traders are here. They sell everything foodie and almost everything else. Local honey, butter, cider, calvados (apple brandy) and garlic. There’s even ginger, saffron and yuzus, grown less than an hour from the city. Of course, Norman cheeses are there in abundance. Camembert, affectionately known as God’s feet by the locals, Pont-L’Evêque, Livarot and Neufchâtel. I stopped in my tracks at the sight of chocolate bread and a delicious spread of tarts and cakes. “Would you like to try” the stall holder asked me, smiling as I sighed with happiness. It tastes divine. An elderly lady nodded approvingly and told me that she never buys any food at a supermarket, only this market and the Sunday morning ‘big one.’

In the square, shoppers pulling trolleys and carrying baskets and bags are watched over by a statue of a no-doubt approving Louis XIV dressed as a roman Emperor. A voracious gourmand, he was said to eat up to 300 oysters in a single sitting. With that in mind I followed my nose to the fish market where the freshest of scallops, which are emblematic of Caen, sea snails, bulots, fish and all manner of shellfish were arrayed. A group of infants on a school trip to learn about food passed me by chatting about the incredible display and laughing at a stall called ‘Standouille’, a play on words in French ‘c’est un andouille’ which sells an impressive range of sausages.

What a load of tripe!

Tripe of course is also sold at the market, Tripe à la mode de Caen is the traditional dish of the city, and they’re very proud of it here. And it if floats your boat, pop to Boucherie Sabot in Boulevard des Alliés near the 14th century Tour Leroy. Sabots is Normandy’s most famous, multi-award winning, third-generation family producers of Tripe.

It’s an impressively beautiful, irresistibly scrumptious market – enough to make me want to move to Caen!

Caen Castle and the old district

At the other end of the marketplace, the vast ramparts of Caen Castle are imposing and majestic. This was one of the largest medieval enclosures in Europe, built in around 1060. Though the castle lies in ruins, there are wonderful views from the top (top photo). Plus there are two excellent museums. The Musée des Beaux Arts and the fascinating Musée de Normandie which explores the history of the Norman people, within the enclosure. Below it lies the old district, small but well worth a wander.

Marché du Dimanche Saint Pierre

The most important market in the region takes place on Sunday morning market at the port de Plaisance in Caen. Along the quay of the bassin Saint-Pierre, on Place Courtonne and Quai Vandeuvre, you’ll find a whopping 400+ traders selling pretty much everything. There’s a mind-boggling array of local products straight from the farm. Olives from Provence and goods from all around France, artisan and craft goods, clothes, homeware and more.

Families amble, browse and buy, stopping to look out over the port at the boats bobbing up and down, their anchors clanging gently, while birds hover waiting for titbits. Keen cooks buy the freshest produce for the all-important Sunday meal. And baskets are filled with food for the week ahead.

What really surprised me about this market was the dizzying amount of street food stands. Great steaming bowls of aromatic noodles and cauldrons of prawns and shellfish, irresistible Brittany style galettes, succulent roasting chickens, even vegan.

Where to eat out:

Caen is a foodie’s paradise and the local restaurant chefs are often to be seen at the city’s markets. You’ll find heaps of choice when it comes to eating out, these are just a few of my favourites:

L’Aromate, 9 Rue Gémare, 14000 Caen. laromate-caen.fr Superb menu and it’s all about the ingredients. The freshest fish and vegetables and chef. The staff are friendly, the ambiance is great – you simply can’t go wrong here.

L’Okara, 24 Rue Froide, 14000 Caen. www.lokara.fr Welcoming organic and ethical vegetable restaurant that’s perfect for vegetarian and vegan dining.

Une Cuillére a Carrée, 22 Rue de Bernières, 14000 Caen. unecuillerecarree.fr A real favourite with the locals for its refined and delicious menu.

Le Pt’tit B 15 Rue du Vaugueux, 14000 Caen. www.leptitb.fr In an ancient building in the medieval district, in a picture postcard pretty street, in the shadow of the great castle ramparts. Superb menu and delicious cocktails – an absolute winner.

Bouef and Cow, 6 Boulevard des Alliés. boeufandcow.com Elegant and welcoming setting overlooking the beautiful church of Saint-Pierre and serving Normandy’s finest burgers and meaty dishes.

La Ferme de Billy, 31 Rue de l’Eglise, 14980 Rots. ferme-de-billy.com/en A 15-minute drive from Caen city centre brings you to the glorious apple-growing countryside of Normandy – and a traditional cider farm. The Ferme de Billy’s weekend brunch and Thursday/Friday lunch buffet is the best I have ever been to. A huge choice of local products, beautifully cooked and presented. Afterwards take a walk around the estate with its 13^th century chapel. A must if you’re in Caen.

Where to stay

I stayed at the 3* Hotel Des Quatrans, 17 rue Gémare, 14000 Caen. hotel-des-quatrans.com It’s in a tranquil spot, but just steps from the city centre. Ideal as a base to visit Caen and the wider area.

Go Trade is a European project which since 2017 has worked with English and French partners to support and preserve the role that traditional markets play in daily life. Find our more at: gotrade-markets.eu

Did you know: Caen is one of those tongue-twister words non-French find really hard to say. Some say it like ‘con’ which in French means idiot (or worse). It’s more like ‘Carn’ – pronounce the ‘n’ but emphasise the ‘r’!

Details of markets and what to see and do in Caen: caenlamer-tourisme.com

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Mont Saint-Michel is majestic. It’s one of those places that, although its wiggly cobbled streets might be covered by many visitors (around 2.5 million a year – it is after all one of the most popular sites in France) the magic shines through. A tiny town on a granite island cradled between the coast of Brittany and Normandy, which from a distance looks like a helter-skelter. Lopsided half-timbered houses wind their way round the narrow alleyways, topped by a gravity-defying golden statue of Saint Michael. Victor Hugo, the great French writer called it “the pyramid of the seas” and you can really see what he means when you view it from a distance. It is one of the wonders of the world and has attracted hordes of tourists since the Middle Ages.

Bucket list France

I took my dad there once. He didn’t want to go, ‘another bloody monument‘ he’d said. But I insisted.

We strolled through the stone arch which forms the entry to the town and dad stood there open-mouthed at the sight of this incredible island of monuments. We made our way up a cobbled hill, past chapels and many souvenir shops, and cafés in medieval buildings. We peered into the restaurant Mère Poulard famous for its fluffy omelettes. They are made to the same secret recipe and cooked on an open fire in front of customers as they have been since 1888, a taste that’s been loved by many – including Ernest Hemingway and Marilyn Monroe. And we wandered down tiny streets and lost ourselves in the wonder of the ancient architecture.

Normandy cheeses

Normandy has its own feel and its own food. And if you go to Normandy, you’d better like butter. And cheese. And garlic… and a whole host of other things. Let’s just say, you don’t go there to go on a diet and don’t forget to pack your stretchy trousers.

We stopped at a restaurant overlooking the bay. Steaming bowls of mussels, fresh as can be, were put on the table before us, together with a basket filled with chunks of baguette for mopping up the creamy, garlicky sauce. Crispy fries and a green salad accompanied the fishy feast. Afterwards a selection of cheeses was brought to the table for us to choose from. I explained to dad that it was polite to ask for up to three cheeses on show and the server will cut a sliver of each for you. Confronted with the sight of several cheeses, a ripe Brie and smelly Camembert, Livarot and pungent Pont l’Evêque, heart-shaped Neufchatel and Pavé d’Auge, dad had no idea which to choose.

“This one” said the waiter “comes from a dairy farm in a sleepy village among the rolling hills…” and “this is one of the most creamy and delectable cheeses in the world.” And “flavoured with a little Calvados, this one tastes of heaven, it’s funky and delicious…” He rolled his tongue around the words, filtering them through his droopy moustache, proudly paying tribute to the local cheeses, much as a sommelier does when describing wine.

“I’ll have a bit of everything” said dad firmly, ignoring my three-cheese-sliver advice. The waiter sliced expertly and popped the portions on a plate. Dad spread them over chunks of baguette. He sighed happily, he nibbled and rolled his eyes as if in ecstasy. He didn’t share and he didn’t stop until he had finished.

Mark, my husband, and I decided to climb to the top of the Mont to visit the abbey. It was at the summit of a steep stone staircase. Dad declared it would probably finish him off even without him now having a body composition of at least 15% cheese.

“I have” said dad “eaten myself into a sitting position.” So we left him to enjoy the views and entertain some American tourists on the table next to ours. Dad was a great raconteur and loved to tell tall tales.

The Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel

The abbey of Mont Saint-Michel was far less crowded than the streets which is not a surprise since there’s no lift to the top, so you really don’t have a choice if you want to get there other than to tackle a whopping 350 steps. There were a couple of paramedics sitting on a bench halfway up. We joked that they were there to help us fools making the chest-thumping ascent. Then we ran out of breath to joke.

But, getting to the peak was worth every challenging moment of the climb. The thick stone walls of the abbey are punctuated with arched windows which allow panoramic views over one of the most beautiful bays in the world. Inside the Gothic abbey there is a feeling of spirituality and of peacefulness that makes you stop in wonder and awe at the sight of cloisters which seem to be suspended halfway to heaven.

The history of this place goes back millennia but it was in 708 that Aubert, the bishop of Avranches dreamed he had an encounter with the archangel Michael, who instructed him to build a church on the island. Three times the archangel instructed the bishop, until finally, according to legend, burning a hole in the bishop’s skull to drive home the message. Aubert built his chapel and the current abbey now stands on that site, built in the 11^th century.

Going down the stairs was easier. We collected dad from the terrace.

“This” said dad, “is one of those places that everyone ought to see before they die”.

Janine Marsh is Author of My Good Life in France: In Pursuit of the Rural Dream, and My Four Seasons in France: A Year of the Good Life

Photo: Stormy, misty, marvellous and medieval Mont-Saint-Michel, Mont St Michel during the “blue hour” by Martin McKenzie

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“My garden is my most beautiful masterpiece” said Claude Monet. And he chose Normandy as the place where he wanted to live, work and play. Who can blame him? Normandy has it all – exquisite countryside, fairy tale villages, castles, beaches, marvellous monuments and great gastronomy. It takes a very special tour to experience all of Normandy’s glories.

Picture Perfect Normandy tour

This seriously super tour takes you on an enchanting journey through Normandy. From Monet’s house and extravagantly floral garden in glorious Giverny to Mont Saint-Michel, one of the wonders of the world. Historic towns, the D-Day landing beaches, fairy tale castles and cheese farms, plus the beautifully detailed 1000 year old Bayeux Tapestry are all on your itinerary.

You will never forget your visit to wonderful Honfleur. This little harbour town bewitches visitors today as it did the impressionist artists. Filled with pickled in the past cobbled streets and half-timbered buildings it’s exquisitely pretty. Stand in the footsteps of Monet in Rouen as you contemplate the majestic beauty of the great Gothic Cathedral. Then head to dinner at the oldest auberge restaurant in France. You’ll be following in the footsteps of the American grand dame of cooking, Julia Child. She fell in love with French cuisine there…

You’ll also head off the beaten track to discover pretty villages, gorgeous castles including the birth place of William the Conqueror and experience the wonders of Normandy like a local. See the magnificent bay of Mont Saint-Michel with its one of a king island hilltop abbey and discover authentic and delicious French markets.

And you’ll be spoiled rotten throughout with fabulous restaurants…

World War II sites

On this tour some of the best World War 2 experts will join the group to show you the historical sites. With their anecdotes and tales of the past, of the facts and the secrets of the locations, the guides help the past come to life. As you explore the battlefield sites and visit the poignant cemeteries, It’s a moving experience and one that leaves travellers with lasting memories.

Wine, dine and stay in high-end hotels

Hand-picked restaurants, charming auberges, authentic and cosy cafés… This tour takes you to the crème de la crème of Normandy. And talking of cream – you’ll find it’s cheese heaven in the home of Camembert. So naturally you will indulge in a cheese tasting session as well as cider and Calvados, the famous Norman apple brandy. Enjoy the freshest seafood there is, irresistible cakes and desserts and great wines as you pamper your inner gourmand.

Everything is taken care of so that you simply relax, enjoy the tour and have a fabulous time making memories you’ll cherish.

Find out more at TripUSAFrance

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It’s official – these are the prettiest villages in Normandy according to the Plus Beaux Villages de France Association. They award the coveted recognition to a handful of villages that have to meet strict criteria. Culturally rich, population of less than 2000, rural location and of course exquisitely pretty!

Normandy has six recognised Plus Beaux Villages.

Barfleur

You’ll find Barfleur on the Cotentin Peninsula, between Cherbourg and Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue. The latter is itself an absolutely jewel of a town, famous for its oysters and UNESCO listed Tour Vauban de la Hougue, plus it was voted “favourite village of the French in 2019”. Barfleur is a small fishing village with a picturesque fishing harbour. With its carefully preserve old buildings, it’s a great place to wander, enjoy the sea views and take a break. It too is famous for its seafood, especially a type of mussel called “Barfleur blonde”. Enjoy it cooked in cream and eaten at one of the seafront restaurants and washed down with Normandy cider. Sublime…

Read more about Barfleur here.

Beuvron-en-Auge

Beuvron-en-Auge is full of authentic half-timbered houses dating to the 17^th and 18^th centuries. The main square is stuffed with art galleries and antique shops and every every Saturday afternoon there’s a farmer’s market. The Route des Cidres takes in this village, perfect for lovers of cider, nature, cheese, countryside and wide open green spaces peppered with beautiful mansions and castles.

Lyons-la-Forêt

Charming half-timbered houses dating from the 17th century, painted cob buildings and a glorious central market hall, dating from the 15th century make this a standout village visit. Just 40km from Rouen, this tranquil little village is in an enormous national forest of beech trees. Maurice Ravel lived here, Jean Renoir, son of the famous painter, a renowned film maker, featured the town in film in the film Madame Bovary in the 1920s. Later Claude Chabrol also used the town as a location in his version of Madame Bovary. Lyons-la-Forêt is also a Station Verte and village fleuri.

Read more about Lyons-la-Forêt here.

Le Bec-Hellouin

Le Bec-Hellouin is renowned for its imposing Abbey, built in 1034, it’s a classified Historic Monument. It’s inhabitaed by monks who create ceramics and candles that you can buy in the Abbey. The town is like a picture postcard come to life with its colourful houses and flower-lined streets.

Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei

In the heart of the Alpes Mancelle Regional Natural Park, this small village is astoundingly pretty. It’s not hard to see why painters, included Courbet and Corot, have flocked here. With the gentle river Sarthe flowing through town, an 11^th century church and very pretty streets and houses, this is a fabulous place to spend some time. Not only that, the town is home to a “miraculous fountain”. Legend has it that water which sprang from a source here quenched the thirst of Saint Céneri, after whom the town is named. Great for fishermen and hikers as well as those who love pretty villages.

Veules les Roses

Between Fécamp and Dieppe, overlooking the cliffs of the Alabaster Coast, Veules-les-Roses sits between sea and countryside. The Veules is the smallest river in France and follows a lush green and flowery course through the mills and thatched cottages of the villages on its way to the English Channel. Villas and bathing cabins on the seafront evoke its past as a popular seaside resort in the 19th century, Victor Hugo was a fan!

Read more about Veules les Roses here.

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Le Havre’s port is vast. And its contemporary architecture has UNESCO heritage status in recognition of its exceptional urban design on a grand scale. This cruise ship destination city is a vibrant, friendly and fascinating city to visit. The birthplace of impressionism with an arty vibe offers plenty to do in the town. And with big hitters like Honfleur and Etretat just down the road, it’s an ideal weekend destination…

Take a wander in Le Havre

Le Havre’s architecture is unique. This post-war built metropolis is sometimes likened to a Soviet-Style city – grand, imposing and grey. But once you visit you’ll see there’s much more to it than meets the eye. Yes, it’s concrete, yes there are rows of apartment blocks, built quickly to house those who’d lost their homes during WWII. But it has a charm of its own, there’s elegance in the lines, grandeur in the scale and art in the design.

Pop into lead architect August Perret’s show flat to see what it was like to live in one of these buildings in the 1940s and 50s. Browse the bookshelves in the Oscar Niemeyer designed library, an extraordinary yoghurt-pot shaped building. Visit the church of St Joseph, an architectural landmark with astonishing stained glass windows. And take a dip at Jean Nouvel’s glorious Les Bain des Docks.

It’s just a short walk from the city centre to Le Havre’s beach, 2km of sand and pebbles, a big draw for the locals as well as for savvy visitors. The beach hosts the biggest free skate park in France (a legend amongst skate boarders) and in the summer there are water sports, fun activities and pop up restaurants. It’s from here that Claude Monet painted “Impression, Rising Sun” which kickstarted the impressionist movement.

Further round the coast is the beach of Saint-Adresse. Here the resort and old houses are built on the slopes of Cape Hève, the gateway to the Alabaster Coast. It’s a great place to drink in the spectacular sea views, just as Monet loved to do.

Tip: Take a guided tour of the harbour or visit the historic docks by boat, it’s especially good in the evening when the twinkling lights are reflected on the water.

Lunch at the seaside

All that walking is sure to build up an appetite. Get a dose of fresh sea air and lunch al fresco on sunny days, there’s plenty of choice along the coastline. For sea views and that real seaside feel head to Au Bout du Monde in the Saint-Adresse quarter. If you love watching the big ships go by, you’ll enjoy the restaurants along the Southampton Wharf Area.

Aperitifs and dinner in town

Indulge in a Kir Normand – cider and cassis. Try the English pub style L’Etavles with its roof top seating area; there’s lots of choice in the area around the indoor market in the town. Feast on a bowl of steaming local mussels and chips and mop up the juices with a hunk of delicious fresh bread. Enjoy a great Norman cheese –  Pont L’Eveque, Neufchatel en Bray, Camembert  are all local favourites. And end with an apple and almond delight – tarte Normande. The perfect way to finish the day.

Cultural Venues

Musee d’Art Modern Andre Malraux

An arts museum with a superb collection of impressionist paintings. The MUMA, Musee d’Art Modern Andre Malraux, was the first major museum to be built in France after WW2. There’s a collection which represents some of the most important art movements of the last 300 years: Fauvist art, Art Deco and 20th century art amongst others. The Impressionist collection contains masterpieces by Monet, Renoir, Sisley and Degas.

Le Havre Natural History Museum

The Natural History Museum has fun and interactive temporary exhibitions related to the animal, plant and mineral world, as well as a strong archaeology section. It’s particularly good for a rainy day and for families.

Maison de L’Armateur

The 18^th century Shipowner’s House givers a glimpse into the daily life of a wealthy Le Havre sea merchant. Beautifully decorated and furnished rooms in a 5 storey house with a fabulous central sky light make for a fabulous step back in time.

Hotel Dubocage de Bleville museum

In a mansion which once belonged to Michel Joseph Dubocage, a merchant sailor which a penchant for collecting things, you’ll discover the maritime history of Le Havre – and a charming collection of chinaware.

If you’ve got time on your visit to Le Havre, there’s lots to see close by….

Trip to Honfleur

Honfleur is a complete contrast to Le Havre though it’s just 30 minutes away by car or public transport. Stuffed with half-timber houses and cobbled streets which spread out from the central port commissioned by Louis XIV. The Impressionists set up their easels and captured the town’s charm from the Vieux Basin to the alleys of the Sainte-Catherine district. Cross the impressive Pont de Normandie to get there – an adventure in itself!

More on Honfleur

Trip to Etretat

In the opposite direction, 40 minutes by car  lies the glorious countryside and stunning natural wonder of Etretat. Famous for its Porte d’Aval rock formation flanked by the  majestic Aiguille (needle). The natural sculptures of the Alabaster coast fascinated Monet and it’s not hard to see why. Climb to the top of the chalk cliff of Amont cliff to visit the charming little chapel Notre-Dame de la Garde and enjoy magnificent views over the sea.

Top things to see and do in Le Havre

Further afield

Deauville and Trouville – discover the “Norman Riviera” neighbouring seaside towns that are firm favourites with Parisians

Barfleur – what to see and do in the ancient town

Find our more: Le Havre Tourism; UKFrancefr

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