The Vermillion Coast is in the Pyrénées-Orientales, in the Occitanie region, where the craggy Pyrénées mountains descend into the Mediterranean Sea. The view seen from high above the coast encompasses a rich landscape of geometrically captivating vineyards and jagged shoreline. Inextricably anchored between France and Spain, Collioure is considered the pearl of the Côte Vermeille, the Vermillion Coast. It takes its name from the iron ore present in the local rock, which gives it a rusty red colour.

Known since the time of the seagoing Phoenicians, this charmingly romantic, picture postcard village was the trading port for Roussillon during the middle ages and the home of Fauvism in the very early years of the 20th century.

What to see in Collioure

Collioure’s strategically built castle, which juts out to the turquoise Mediterranean, was once home to the Kings of Majorca and became the scene for many battles for possession fought between France and Spain which France finally won in 1793. Just minutes from the Spanish border, Collioure is contentedly French with characteristically Catalan influences.

Breathtaking scenery and delectable local cuisine bring connoisseurs of the senses to this, as yet, undiscovered part of the Mediterranean. Though its beaches are jammed during the summer like its famous anchovies packed in a can, you’ll rarely see an American tourist. For serious wine lovers, Collioure is home to a variety of rich, red wine including Banyuls vin doux. First used as a sacramental wine in churches throughout France, Banyuls was made popular by the Knights Templar during the crusades of the middle ages.

A favourite with artists

Enchanting Collioure is a feast for the eyes, mixing Spanish flair with a French sensibility. The incandescent light which bathes the village drew artists to its shore. In 1905, Henri Matisse visited Collioure and was inspired by the lovely scenery and vibrant colors. His paintings ignites a new movement in art called Fauvism that revolutionized the concept of colour.

Never a strict art movement it, nonetheless, became the first avant-garde wave of the early twentieth century. Picasso, Chagall, Derain, Dufy, and Braque followed. They often stayed at and met to discuss art at the Hotel des Templiers bar, paying for their drinks with art. The hotel is open to this day and boasts an astonishing collection of over a hundred original paintings and sketches. The Fauves (wild beasts) shocked the art world with their “orgy of pure color”.

Painting with pure, unmixed colors, they disregarded the reality of their subjects shapes and natural palette. To honor their contribution to the cultural landscape of Collioure, reproductions of their works appear in an open air museum on the “Chemin du Fauvisme.” Through twenty bronze frames scattered along the route you can see what they saw and painted. Incredibly the view has not changed, in some cases, in over 6 centuries.

Matisse said, “My choice of colours does not rest on any real scientific theory. It is based on observation, on feeling, on the very nature of each experience.”

Within easy reach of Carcassonne, Perpignan and Montpellier, Collioure on the Vermillion Coast is worth experiencing.

Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of southwest France where she runs French Country Adventures which provides private, personally-guided, small-group food & wine adventures into Gascony, the Pays Basque, Tarn, Provence and beyond…

What to see and do nearby

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The Archipel de Thau lagoon in the south of France is a bit of a secret place. Around 20km long, and separated from the Mediterranean by a sandbank, the L’Étang de Thau as it’s also called, is the largest salt lake in the Occitanie region. It’s a breeding ground for oysters and mussels. Bordering the lake are pretty villages surrounded by lush vineyards. From the commune of Agde to the town of Sète, on the Mediterranean side there are miles and miles of wide sandy beaches known as Marseillan Plage.

Rising out of the sea, and the dominant landmark of the lagoon, is the hill of Mont Saint-Clair. At its base lies Sète, known as the Venice of the region thanks to its canals and busy port. This lively town has a plethora of restaurants all around the port and almost all serve freshly caught fish. Dishes reflect a strong Italian influence due to the immigrant workers who helped create the canals in the 17^th century.

Sète is a cruise destination as well as France’s leading port for blue fish, sardines, anchovies and tuna. During the summer months, the banks of the main canal are filled with spectators watching water jousting, a form of entertainment dating back to the town’s inception in 1666. Teams dressed in white, board long boats and compete against each other to topple their adversary’s jouster with a 2.8m long wooden lance! In July, the open-air theatre with its enchanting backdrop of the Mediterranean, hosts a Jazz Festival that attracts top name artists.

Around the lagoon are little villages, each with its own charms.

Pretty villages

At Balaruc-les-Bains the Antique Mediterranean Garden is well worth a visit, laid out as it would have been in Roman times. Discover the  agriculture and horticulture of the Mediterranean, and the diverse use of flowers and plants in medicine, cooking, and cosmetics. The village is known for its therapeutic thermal waters.

At Bouzigues the secrets of the fishermen of L’Etang as well as oyster cultivation are explained at the Museum of Ethnographique.

And at the 12^th century Abbey of Valmagne you can take a wine tasting. Its architecture is based on the great cathedrals of Northern France. Original paintings are displayed on the stone walls of the cloisters, and there are regular exhibitions. Converted into a wine storehouse after the French Revolution, and thanks to its vineyards, it is known as the wine cathedral.

Marseillan

Make your way to Marseillan and en route you may spot pink flamingos in the shallow waters of the lagoon. Marseillan Port is a preserved heritage site with pretty cafés bordering the inlet. The town is the home of Noilly Prat vermouth, a favourite ingredient of James Bond for his famous “shaken not stirred” Dry Martini! Its history can be traced back to 1813, and a visit to the Noilly Prat museum will reveal many secrets including the spices and herbs in the ingredients list. Tours end with a tasting – perfect.

Marseillan’s market takes place on Tuesday morning. Its arrival turns the village from a quiet, sleepy town into a vibrant place. In a row of shacks where the boats come to off-load their catch from the Etang, you’ll find La Cabane Brasucade, a tiny family run eaterie facing onto the lagoon. Here, they marinate the oysters and mussels which are grown just offshore. You can’t miss the sight of row upon row of what look like huts on stilts in the lagoon. The freshly harvested, marinated molluscs are cooked over an open fire. Served with the local wine, such as Picpoul de Pinet, this is one of life’s finest pleasures!

Activities galore

There are numerous water sports including kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, sailing and kitesurfing. Bicycle paths are everywhere, including the 18 miles of Marseillan Plage. Beaches offer somewhere to relax, play and eat with numerous restaurants and bars.

There are also many walking paths in the area, some circumnavigating vineyards where you can enjoy tastings. This is an area of small, independent wine growers and often, it’s a matter of ringing a bell at the front door to access the tasting room.

This little part of paradise is authentic and irresistibly pretty, a well-kept secret to fall in love with.

www.archipel-thau.com

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Natasha Blair is a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers. She became a Francophile after studying French Civilisation for Foreigners at the Sorbonne University in Paris. When possible, she loves to travel with her pet passport carrying dog, Poppy, a Coton du Tuleur.

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The village of Cordes-sur-Ciel, rises 100 meters above the Cérou river valley, in the northwest corner of the Tarn department, 80 km northeast of Toulouse. The name means Cordes in the sky – find out what do see in and nearby the heavenly village of Cordes-sur-Ciel…

The two steep, natural limestone cliffs of the Puech de Mordagne peak, upon which Cordes rests, were the perfect building blocks for the first bastide (fortified village), built by Raymond VII, the Count of Toulouse, in 1222, to protect his northern territories.

Many of its first settlers were Cathars, and though Raymond VII was not a Cathar, he tolerated their religious practices, giving them freedom from being vassals of his court in exchange for reaping the rewards of their industry. The Cathars were a peaceful Christian religious sect that was adverse to the exploitive wealth of the Catholic church hierarchy – they, therefore, didn’t recognize priesthood.  They wouldn’t kill unless in self defence, believed in the equality of the sexes and held steadfast to the idea of reincarnation, an anathema to church doctrine.  After their popularity grew to what the Catholic church feared were alarming rates, they were literally erased from face of the earth by the first Albigensian Crusade.

In the first half of the 13th century, Cordes’ resident population was over 5,000. The hilltop village was extremely prosperous, harvesting its wealth from the wool, cloth and leather trades. Unfortunately, the plague, The Black Death pandemic, arrived in 1348 killing a quarter of its population. The Hundred Years War from 1337 to 1453 also took its toll on the village.

Cordes recovered in the second half of the 15th century with the advent of the pastel industry.

Pastel comes from a plant called woad and is the source of indigo, a strong, natural blue dye. For many years the dyeing industry was the mainstay of Cordes wealth until the widespread use of synthetic indigo led to its eventual demise.

The village fortunes, once again, declined in the 16th century during the Wars of Religion. And the completion of the Canal du Midi in 1681, which linked the Mediterranean to the Atlantic as the main trade route of the south, by passed Cordes altogether. By the time of the French Revolution,  the population had withered to just under 2,500. In 1870, mechanical embroidery looms brought prosperity back to Cordes, by producing the embroidered crocodile logo for Lacoste fashions.

During the 1940’s Cordes became an artistic center. Most famously, the artist Yves Brayer, known for his landscape paintings of Provence and the writer Albert Camus lived in Cordes and inspired the creation of the Cordes Academy of Art.During the summer months there is a tram that will take you from the bottom of the village to the top.  I will certainly return during the long summer days for a guided tour of Cordes incredibly well preserved 13th & 14th century gothic houses and hôtel paticuliers.

There are several must-see places to visit near Cordes including Albi (25 minutes drive). The city is known for having the largest brick cathedral in the world, Sainte-Cecile, and as the birthplace of Toulouse Lautrec. Albi’s Palais de la Berbie has the largest collection of Lautrec’s work in the world.

The fortified hilltop village, Puycelci, is about a 35 minute drive from Cordes. It’s one of the more picturesque Plus Beaux Villages de France, (officially one of the prettiest villages in France).

Gaillac, a village known for its excellent AOC wines is also close by.

Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of southwest France where she runs French Country Adventures which provides private, personally-guided, small-group food & wine adventures into Gascony, the Pays Basque, Tarn and beyond…

Secret Toulouse – the city’s unusual side!

Top things to see and do in Albi

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France is without a doubt a world leader in culinary excellence. It’s the country with the most Michelin stars throughout Europe – way more than 600 – and can proudly declare some of the most iconic foods in the world as their own. Pleasure is on the menu across the country with regional specialities owning star status. Take a taste tour through Toulouse’s gut-busting local dishes and delicious must try foods.

Temptations of tasty Toulouse – the best local dishes

Toulouse, nicknamed la ville rose thanks to its many buildings in magnificent shades of pink through terracotta, is a city of winding cobbled streets, timber-framed houses – and a bustling food scene. The city’s delicious temptations are irresistible even if, as you’re about to find out, they might add a few pounds! Some of these recommendations are heavy with regional significance, while others demonstrate the city’s expanding menu to cater to all tastes. Most importantly, these 10 foods are tributes to France’s delicious cuisine – and put Toulouse firmly on the food map.

Cassoulet

First is, of course, cassoulet. If you visit Toulouse without trying this famous regional delicacy, then your experience is incomplete!

To say the southern cassoulet is hearty is an understatement. In fact, like most of the food in the south-west, it is a celebration of meat, in this case surrounded by baked white beans which, thanks to their thin skins, soak up all the rich flavours. Cassoulet originated in the medieval era as peasant food and cities across the region all serve their own versions with either mutton, duck or goose. In Toulouse, it is often presented with a saucisse de Toulouse as well as the preferred meat of the chef, in this case, duck confit. Cooked low and slow, the dish is meltingly soft. Its cooking is considered an art and served at traditional French restaurants such as Au Gascon or Maison du Cassoulet.

Saucisse de Toulouse

Many of you will have already tasted Toulouse sausage as the meat is a favourite beyond French borders. However, the recipe is unprotected so some international brands could be naughty fakes poaching the Toulouse name! Dating back 250 years, saucisse de Toulouse is sold in coils like a pink pudgy snake at all butchers and markets. Made from pork mince, pork belly and the butcher’s own ‘secret’ seasonings, it is an essential ingredient in the regional cassoulet in which it is slow-cooked. It can also be fried or braised, and is served at L’Aubrac, a restaurant honouring gut-busting Toulousain food (and their website clearly states if you’re craving a light meal, L’Aubrac isn’t for you!)

Magret de Canard

And yes, the meat continues! An iconic dish of the south-west is magret de canard – seared duck breast – one of the most revered dishes across France. It is easy to find on almost every menu in Toulouse, so famous and beloved is this duck recipe. Cooked like a steak, duck breast is pan-fried until the skin is crisp and golden, and the meat is served blush pink and sliced. In keeping with the rest of the city’s cuisine, it is rich and often served with a savoury jus to complement the meaty flavour. A delicacy and one I highly recommend.

Charcuterie

While I’m on the subject of meat… you cannot miss the charcuterie of Toulouse. Restaurants and cafés serve apéro (aperitif) in the early evening where you can order cured and cold meats and pâtés, most of which are local or market purchases, as pre-dinner appetizers.

Explore the markets yourself, particularly Marché Victor Hugo, and everywhere you look there are saucissons and dried shoulders of jambon hanging from the ceiling and terrines, rillettes and pâté enshrined in glass cabinets. Ask the butchers for regional delicacies, and if all else fails, sample porc gascon which comes sliced or as a pâté.

Cheese

While wandering those hallowed aisles of Marché Victor Hugo, the fromageries will be calling your name! France and fromage go hand in hand, especially as there are 1,600 French cheeses. You will find many of them in Toulouse’s markets, particularly those from the south-west. A creamy firm cheese called Ariège Toudeille is made in a village two hours from Toulouse, and one cheese in particular is a Toulousain creation – Pavé Toulousain. A speciality made by the fromagerie Xavier just outside the market, the cheese’s unmissable cube shape and edible grey rind resembles a brick, yet the inside, made from raw cow’s milk, is smooth with a somewhat crunchy texture.

Sandwiches

When it comes to making sandwiches, the French are professionals. The sublime baguette avec jambon et beurre served with cornichons epitomises the rustic simplicity of French cuisine, and you can find such a sandwich at Le Détaillant. This little sandwich shop couldn’t exist anywhere else as it combines ingredients of the local terroir with those of our neighbour, Spain. The delicatessen boasts a bounty of quality chorizo, serrano ham and Manchego, as well as, naturally, dried duck as a tribute to its Toulousain roots.

Vegetarian food

If you’re vegetarian, you might be wondering if you’ll starve during your visit to Toulouse. While meat receives a lot of love and attention, I promise not all restaurants are L’Aubrac! If you need a break from the region’s richness, no one could blame you, and there is plenty of choice for vegetarians and vegans, including French food at La Maison de Vélo which offers a simple ever-changing menu including one meat, fish and vegetarian option.

Pastries

At last, the dessert course! If you always have room for dessert, then Toulouse has you covered. While the focus is on the savoury side of life, the city’s many pâtisseries and tea shops beg to differ. Cakes beckon from café windows and the act of eating a sweet pick-me-up is a serious pastime here. Try Flower’s Café or Salon d’Eugénie for a coffee and an afternoon sweet treat or visit Poussin Bleu or Le Pâtisserie Conté for éclairs and other impressive patisserie to eat on the go.

Chocolatines

This is a controversial topic! In the south of France, pain au chocolats are called chocolatines. Most of the time, if you walk into a boulangerie and mistakenly ask for a pain au chocolat, you’ll be forgiven, but if you’re a stubborn Parisian who is trying to make a point, then things could get feisty! Keep your eyes open for the chocolatines that are crisp and glossy, packed with those painstakingly folded layers – my recommendation is to try Le Péché Mignon.

Fruit and vegetables

After all the pastries, cheese and of course, meat, you’ll be waddling to the airport! However, we can’t forget that Toulouse is in the south of France and has the perfect weather for growing fruit and vegetables. Throughout the summer, peaches, apricots and nectarines adorn market shelves before figs and plums in the colours of a traffic light appear in the autumn, ripe and perfect. Next time you find yourself at a market, take a peek at the fruit and vegetables and I promise, you won’t be disappointed.

Toulouse has something for all tastes!

Ally Mitchell is a blogger and freelance writer, specialising in food and recipes. Ally left the UK to live in Toulouse in 2021 and now writes about her new life in France on her food blog NigellaEatsEverything.

Where the locals eat out in Toulouse

This article was first published in The Good Life France Magazine

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Gascony is one of the most beautiful, unspoiled and authentic areas of France. It stretches between several departments of southwest France, Landes, Pyrénées-Atlantiques, southwestern Gironde, and southern Lot-et-Garonne. Each department very different from each other but having in common the Gascon culture, fabulous gastronomy, wines, and a long, rich history. Sue Aran of French Country Adventures shares ten of her favourite jewels of Gascony…

IIrouléguy

Irouléguy is a small Basque village in Lower Navarre in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques department. Its delicious wines are grown in one of the smallest vineyards in France, the only one in the French Basque country. The history of the vineyard is linked to the pilgrimage to Saint Jacques-de- Compostelle. Monks from the monastery of Roncesvalles,  planted vines around the old Saint-Vincent church in the village of Irouléguy for a wine intended for pilgrims. After the signing of the Treaty of the Pyrenees (1659), which formalized peace between Spain and France, the monks left their vineyard to the inhabitants of the village who continued production. After the phylloxera wine epidemic, and WWI, a group of farmers created the cooperative cellar of Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry, and continued producing their wine, eventually earning Irouléguy its prized AOC classification in 1970.

Jurançon

The Jurançon is an area west of Pau. Its landscape consist of narrow valleys and breathtaking views of the Pyrenees Mountains. Jurançon is one of King Henri IV’s favorite wines, grown along the hillsides on the southern banks of the Gave de Pau covering 1,000 hectares. It is still considered the wine of Kings and still served at important events. There are 2 AOC Jurançon wines, the Jurançon sec (dry) and the Jurançon molleux.(sweet). A visit to the nearby Chateau de Pau is a must-see. King Henri IV’s chambers, where he was born, are on the 2nd floor.

Kakouetta Gorge

With a length of a little less than four kilometers, this stunning gorge has been developed for a kilometer and a half of public access. The visit can only be done at low water, generally from July 1 to the end of September. Their depth reaches thirty to three hundred and fifty meters. In some places only a few meters separate the two sides of the gorge.. A twenty-meter waterfall and a cave are at the end of the route. The gorge offers a beautiful landscape for nature lovers. Mosses, lichens, and ferns are so abundant that the area resembles tropical microclimate.

Lourdes

Lourdes is a city nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains, in the department of the Haute-Pyrenees. For 159 years, millions of the faithful from all over the world have flocked to Lourdes, where, it is said, the sick can be healed miraculously. Known worldwide as a Catholic pilgrimage site, each year, millions of people visit the Massabielle cave where, in 1858, the Virgin Mary was thought to appear to a young, local girl, Bernadette. There are 52 hectares of property and 22 places of worship that comprise the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes.

Marciac

This 13th century bastide village boats the tallest church steeple in the Gers, standing at an impressive 293 ft. It has a lively Wednesday market and a handful of restaurants tucked under its arcaded square. It’s is also, most famously, the home to one of the largest Jazz festivals in Europe. The event runs from the last weekend in July to the end of August. The festival hosts internationally renowned musicians and singers including in the past, Wynton Marsalis and Norah Jones.

Nérac

Built on a Gallo-Roman villa along both banks of the Baïse River, Nérac prospered as the favorite summer residence of King Henri IV. He is said to be the most beloved king of France. It is the land of the Albret family, one of the most powerful in Aquitain. Jeanne d’Albret was the mother of Henri IV. The remains of his impressive chateau, are now a museum. Nérac has fine examples of colombage, regionally distinct, half-timbered buildings, as well as the Parc Royal de la Garenne, once a royal hunting ground. This was the inspirational setting for Shakespeare’s Love’s Labours Lost. The Saturday market is the best in the Lot-et-Garonne department.

The city of Nérac, in the Lot-et-Garonne department, once home to Henry IV’s court, bears little resemblance to its former bucolic beauty. It is though, one of the most attractive larger villages in the region. The Chateau of Henri IV is open daily for visits in the heart of the centre ville. You can also visit the Chateau de Pau, birthplace of King Henri IV. It sits high on a hill in the town of Pau, overlooking the Pyrenees Mountains in the Pyrénées-Atlantique department.

Saints and Churches

Situated in the Quartier du Mas, on the outskirts of the village of Aire-sur-l’Adour, The St. Quitterie church was active from the 12th-18th century for pilgrims on the Saintt Jacque-des-Compostelle route to Spain. Named for Saint Quitterie or Quiteria was a young virgin of noble Visigoth blood. She chose to die rather than deny her faith. According to a medieval manuscript from the 12th century, she was decapitated around 477. Legend says she carried her head in her hands to the pagan sanctuary of Mas d’Aire (now a fountain) above the church which bears her name

Its crypt was originally built over a Roman temple to the god Mars, venerated because of the presence of a “magical” source dedicated to Quiteria. The Church sanctified places of pagan worship in order to be able to claim ancient sites and drive out paganism. Tours can be arranged by calling the church directly.

Séviac

One of the largest Gallo-Roman archeological sites in Gascony. It covers more than 2 hectares and is located below the village of Montréal du Gers. Excavations uncovered a classic villa dating from the 2nd century. It is complete with a thermal bath complex, and beautiful, multi-colored mosaics. There are also remains of a Merovigian baptistry and sanctuary dating from the 6th century.

Terraube

A medieval village that once belonged entirely to Hector de Galard, a renowned warrior during the Hundred Year’s War. His face is represented as the Jack of Diamonds in the French pack of playing cards. In France all face cards are representations of historical figures. Terraube has an infamous well. It’s reputed to be the opening salvo in the Wars of Religion, after all of the local Protestant men were stuffed down it never to be seen again. During the spring and early summer, fields of Lectoure’s cantaloupe melons surround the village.

Urrugne

The Pays Basque village of Urrugne stretches from the ocean along the beautiful Basque Corniche to the first mountains of the Pyrenees. The village has managed to preserve its traditions and its architecture. From the village, a winding road leads to the pilgrimage church of Notre Dame-des-Socorri. And to the Parc Floral Florenia, covering 45 acres with over 30,000 trees and millions of flowers.

Villa Arnega

In the Pays Basque village of Cambo-les-Bains, Villa Arnega was the home to Edmund Rostand, dramatist of the play, Cyrano de Bergerac. The house displays mementos from his life in Paris at the turn of the 20th century. It has a splendid, 18th century style French garden.

Yquem – a magnificent 16^th century chateau wine estate. It once belonged to the King of England, then passed to the Duke of Aquitaine when this area became part of France. It’s located south of Bordeaux, near the charming, historic village of Bazas, on the highest hill in the famed Sauterne region. This magnificent building offers both charm, refinement, and beauty in an exceptional landscape.

Read the petite guide to Gascony, an A-Z of the region’s history and sites, in our free digital magazine The Good Life France

Discover the most amazing tours of Gascony at FrenchCountryAdventures

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Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is best approached from the winding road of the Grand Chemin Val de Gellone. This approach gives you stupendous views of the town which sits atop a hill. When you leave, I recommend you go via the main street on the far side of the town. This long road is lined with boutiques, bistros and artisan workshops.

Officially one of the prettiest villages in France

Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is a Plus Beaux Village de France (an official classification for the prettiest villages in France). In the centre, the main square is home to an imposing plane tree. At more than 150 years old, it’s said to be the biggest plane tree in France. All around it, tables and chairs sprawl out from the cafés that line the square. It’s the perfect place to sip chilled wine and nibble on olives as you listed to the cicadas sing.

On one edge of the square sits the Abbey of Gellone. It’s one of the oldest Romanesque churches in France and a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) pilgrim route.

The abbey was founded in 804 by Guilhem, Count of Toulouse. When he moved to this remote location, his cousin the great Emperor Charlemagne, gave him what was said to be a relic of the Holy Cross. This made the abbey an important stop for pilgrims. The well-preserved abbey has an air of serenity to it, and there is a small museum behind the cool cloisters.

A village of legends

Guilhem made the town famous by defeating a giant who took up residence in the ruins of the town’s castle, accompanied by a magpie. The terrified locals asked Guilhem to help rid them of the giant. Guilhem dressed as a maid and, hiding his sword, set out to trick the beast. But he was recognised by the magpie who flew off to warn his mate. Sure of his superiority, the giant ignored the magpie (of course). He fought with the ‘maid’ who (of course) won. And Guilhem threw his opponent off a cliff. The locals claim that though many wild birds live in the area – no-one has ever seen a magpie in Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert since that day!

What to see in Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert

Around the abbey a warren of narrow cobbled winding alleys spread up and down the hilly town. As you wander, you’ll pass the 12^th century Tour des Prisons. Along the streets, water trickles from ancient fountains. Some of them are decorated with scallop shells, the pilgrims emblem and picturesque ancient houses lean against each under their sun-baked tiled roofs.

Despite the name, you won’t see a desert, the name comes from the fact not many people that lived there centuries ago. Today it gets rather more crowded, especially in peak summer months, though it barely has more than 250 permanent residents.

A stone’s throw from the village you’ll find another incredible monument – the medieval Pont du Diable which arches high above a steep gorge. Legend has it that yet again Guilhem was the hero. The bridge was taking so long to build that Guilhem did a deal with the devil. The evil one agreed to get the job done in return for the first soul to cross after completion. Guilhem sent a dog across and the devil, in a fit of pique tried to destroy the bridge. However he fell into the gorge below which became known as the Gouffre Noir (the black abyss). To this day, pilgrims and locals crossing the bridge throw a stone into the gorge – to keep the devil on the bottom!

A giant’s castle

Embedded in the hills are the remains of a Visigoth fortress. Alongside is an old mule path, trod for centuries by pilgrims and today part of a hike that begins at the edge of the village on the rue du Bout-du-Monde – the street of the end of the world. Take a detour to visit the ruins of the Giant’s castle, a very peaceful spot with fabulous views.

Janine Marsh visited Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert whilst on a CroisiEurope Rhone River tour from Sète to Arles, which includes excursions of the most iconic destinations en route.

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Situated on the south coast of France, Languedoc is one of the biggest wine producing regions in the world. Annual production is the equivalent of 1.8 billion bottles. That’s around 30% of the output of wine produced in France, and more than the whole of Australia’s production. Wine has been grown here since the 5^th century BC when the Greeks introduced vines to the area.

The wily Romans expanded production, knowing a good thing when they drank it. It was also their practice to plant vines as they expanded throughout France – they mixed wine with water because the alcohol kills microorganisms, which helped to keep the army strong and healthy. The prolific production of wine here doesn’t mean lower quality wines. If you’ve not tried Languedoc wine then you really are in for a treat, and if you have, then you’re probably a fan already.

The wines of Languedoc

In terms of quality, Languedoc’s wines are considered to be among the best in the world, especially for their red (around 60%) and rosé (around 19% and more than the whole of Provence) wines. However, quality white, sweet and sparkling wines are on the rise. Languedoc boasts varieties such as Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Roussanne, Marsanne and more! And the area is the largest producer or organic wines in France.

Many of the wineries are small family holdings that date back generations and that handing down of knowledge is part of what makes these wines so very special. Fermenting different grape varieties separately – plus the art of then assembling them – and growing methods, shape Languedoc AOCs, producing structured, full-bodied wines.

Among the 23 Languedoc appellations that unfurl across 40,000 hectares of vineyards, no two wines are alike. The only common denominator since Antiquity is the Mediterranean. The Mediterranean is to thank for the mild, bright winters, the russet of hot, dry summers, the fragrance of scrubland and the winds carrying the sea air.

Saint-Chinian wines

Nestled in the heart of the region of Languedoc-Roussillon the wine appellation Saint-Chinian (AOC Saint Chinian) is one of the best areas for wine. Spread across some 3,300 hectares, it’s home to 450 wine producers including 110 wineries and 8 cooperatives. There are rich pickings here for the wine connoisseur, with an abundance of different grapes, blends and processes. Historically producing red and rosés but more recently producing classified whites too. Whether you’re a serious and informed wine drinker or just an enthusiast starting out on your wine journey – the wines of Saint-Chinian are really pretty much unbeatable.

A historic area with long summers

And what about the area? Languedoc takes in the Roman town of Nîmes, with hints of the Camargue and the Cévennes. The arty city of Montpellier with its historical heritage and Béziers, a town that has endured 27 centuries of history peppered with periods of prosperity, revolt and massacre. Narbonne, described as a little Rome, and unforgettable Carcassonne, boasting the biggest medieval fortress-town in Europe.

It can get very hot here in the summer months. Autumns and springs are mild, although morning frosts are sometime seen into the month of April. Winters are mild and sunny with temperatures barely dipping below 0°C. Rainfall levels are low (among the lowest in France in some communes). The Tramontane wind is omnipresent, drying the vines and warding off disease. It is an ideal climate for growing vines. But the Mediterranean’s grasp is reduced in the far west of the region. In the appellations of Cabardès and Malepère in particular, the climate is transitional: the mild Atlantic meets the intense Mediterranean.

The terroir of Languedoc

And the terroir (that impossible to translate French word which refers to the soil and growing conditions) differs vastly across the region, depending on ancient geological formations. In some parts terraces of smooth pebbles, sandstone and marl. In others you’ll find limestone and shale, clay soil, pudding stone, sandy soil, molasse, etc. It gives wines grown here unique qualities and a whole range of very different tastes. There are countless aromatic variations – sometimes even within the same appellation. The soils play a very important role because they dictate what grape varietal is grown. Grapes are very picky about heat and water retention. They have very demanding preferences on what kind of soil type they like best! And because of the large array of soil types, Languedoc-Roussillon can offer many different wines to please every sipper.

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La Couvertoirade may be one of the prettiest places in France that you never heard of. Deep in the heart of the Aveyron department, southeast France, the little village of La Couvertoirade provides a glimpse into a long-gone past. It is one of the best preserved Templar Knights villages in France. And it’s a classified plus beaux village – officially one of the prettiest villages in France…

La Couvertoirade

La Couvertoirade is located in territory known as the Causses and Cevennes. This UNESCO classified World Heritage site is listed for its ‘agro-pastoral cultural landscape of the Mediterranean’. It’s a rather dry description of a stunningly beautiful area of France. You’ll discover exquisite countryside where villages in the valleys look as though they have been hung on the sides of the hills like baubles on a Christmas tree. The area touches on four departments: Aveyron and Lozère in the Midi-Pyrénées region, and Gard and Herault in Languedoc-Roussillon.

La Couvertoirade looks out over the Larzac plateau, a land of fertile valleys and villages which seem to grow out of the rocks. In the 12^th century, this area was considered the private fiefdom of the crusading Knights Templar and later the Knights Hospitaller. And in La Couvertoirade you’ll find the only castle built by the Knights Templar in France.

What to see in La Couvertoirade

There’s plenty to see and fall in love with as you wander the narrow cobbled alleyways lined with ancient houses. The atmospheric 14^th century church of Saint Christophe is reached by steps cut into the rock. The 14^th century Windmill of Le Rédounel is the only restored windmill in Aveyron. From its hilly position you have fabulous views over the village. The wonderfully preserved Templar castle was built at the end of the 12^th century and last updated in the 15^th century. It sits atop a rocky spur, dominating the town with its imposing high walls.

“It’s so extraordinary that when you walk around the medieval ramparts, you know that these walls are original. It’s easy to imagine that the Knights Templar and generations of people since who have walked here. Like us they have stood and gazed out at the astonishing views” says Julia Girard-Gervois of TripUSAFrance. “It never ceases to amaze me just how absolutely gorgeous this village is. Lovely cobbled streets, beautiful grey stone houses and flowers and vines everywhere. It’s been likened to a miniature Carcassonne and it really is incredibly pretty.”

Authentic and fantastic

Just an hour’s drive from the city of Montpellier and close to the beautiful village of Saint-Guilhelm-le-Desert, La Couvertoirade has an epic history. “This is no museum town though” says Julia. “It’s brimming with history and vibrant with artisans, potters, wool spinners and more. It’s not hard to imagine it how it was in the days of the Templars. There’s even a communal bread oven at the windmill which has been restored and once a week you can taste bread and other local specialities.”

This little village certainly lives up to its Plus Beaux Village award…

3 Must-sees in Aveyron

Aveyron is a land that echoes with the past. Every densely wooded gorge and valley, every ancient bastide town and every winding road seems to whisper of the footsteps of pilgrims making their way south. Of Romans and rebellious Gauls. And of Knights Templars, thundering across the plateaux. It’s a place where you’ll find picture-postcard-pretty medieval villages, historic towns, rolling valleys and vast canyons where rivers roam and forests reach to the sky. Here you’ll find authentic markets, ancient churches clinging to rocky cliffs and divine cathedrals with soaring towers. There are ancient castles and museums galore. It’s a land that’s rich in natural beauty, as well as cultural and spiritual. We picked just 3 of the many must-sees in Aveyron:

Conques

This is a village with an inescapably spiritual feel. It is a towering masterclass in Romanesque engineering and architecture (the Abbey of St. Foy) and the very tangible memory of the weary feet of pilgrims, shuffling along the well-worn streets. The village has a genuine sense of hushed reverence with its medieval walls, slate roof tops, forgotten gates, time worn 11^th century fountains, narrow, cobbled streets. The views will leave you in stunned and silent awe and contemplation. Read more about Conques

Belcastel

The village is well deserving of its “plus beaux villages de France” status because, yet again, here is a place in the Aveyron that is shockingly beautiful, with the gentle tumble of water from the River Aveyron in the background and its steep, cobbled streets leading up to the castle. If you’ve got the time, have lunch at the Vieux Pont (a Michelin star restaurant in the village. Then walk off your indulgences with the climb (and it really is a climb) up to the castle.

Rodez

Certified as a “grand site Midi Pyrénées and “pays d’art et d’histoire”  Rodez is a city which, like so many in France really seems to enjoy mixing the old and the new whether that’s in terms of art, architecture, gastronomy or culture. A small city which clings to the last of the mountains of the Massif Central and dozes quietly 600 metres above sea level. It was originally two cities and is ever so slightly disjointed, with two city squares and a heady combination of gothic and renaissance architecture, hand in hand with the ultra-modern Musée Soulages. Read more about Belcastel and Rodez

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Gascony was England’s first colony, its influence reflected in the historically rich fortified villages, ancient cathedrals, grand chateaux and beautiful gardens which dot the region. Today, old Gascony, the land of swashbuckling Musketeers and dapper Counts, virtually coincides with the Gers, department 32, one of the original 83 departments created during the French Revolution.

The Gers is far enough off the beaten path to retain its identity, yet established enough to cater to travellers. Located south of the main autoroute linking Bordeaux to Toulouse, the Gers offers an intimate portrait of French rural life without the distraction of crowds. The landscape is characterized by green river valleys, bucolic farmland, and undulating hills of vineyards and sunflowers that stretch to the horizon. The only pauses in the department’s tranquillity are the many summer festivals and year-round farmers’ markets.

History

Roman Ruins

The Via Aquitania, one of the important Roman highways that traversed France from Bordeaux to Narbonne, had a station at Eauze. Originally the capital of a Celtic tribe called the Elusatii, it became a significant village after Julius Caesar’s conquest of Gaul. There are three exceptional examples of Gallo-Roman architecture in and around this village. The Musée du Trésor displaying some 28,000 coins, and 50 magnificent pieces of jewellery from the 3rd century. The Domus de Cieutat, an archeological excavation at the residence of an aristocrat during the 3rd century. And the Villa de Séviac, an  excavation below the village of Montréal-du-Gers displays large parts of a Gallo-Roman villa with stunning mosaic floors, and remains of a thermal spa complex. www.elusa.fr

Medieval Villages

Between 1256 and 1325 over 300 bastides (fortified villages) were built in fifteen departments in southwest France. The Gers has over a dozen beautiful examples. Laid out according to a geometric plan, a central square was always included. Often there was a covered market hall and arcaded shops. These villages were organized around three essential elements of peasant life: the cemetery, church and the castle. Each village has retained its own architectural identity, from the round, fortified village of Fourcès, to the arcaded villages of Tillac and St. Clar.

Gastronomy

The Gers is authentically farm to table. It’s a culinary heartland comprising a cornucopia of free-range poultry, goose and duck foie gras, confit, paté, pink and white garlic, earthy mushrooms, tender asparagus, ripe tomatoes, sweet plums, and succulent melons. The Gersois believe good food, carefully prepared, is not a luxury, but a common daily priority. In a department  where food is profoundly revered, it’s easy to find a delicious meal every day of the week, though usually between noon and two. Mealtimes are charmingly sacrosanct.

Wine

The Gers has been home to viticulture for almost 2,000 years. No longer lost in the shadow of Bordeaux, it is fast becoming a hot spot, producing some of the finest white, red, and rosé craft wines in France. Small, independent domaines such as Pellehaut, Chirolet, and Uby, as well as the larger domaines of Côtes de Gascogne, Tariquet, St. Mont, and the very distinctive Pacherenc-du-Vic-Bilh, and Madiran AOCs are now producing award winning appellations. Madiran, the most tannic wine in France, is particularly unique due to its high levels of resveratrol, a powerful antioxidant.

Armagnac

France’s oldest brandy has been produced in the Gers since the 14th century. The first evidence of its use dates back to the year 1310. Then Maître Vital Dufour, prior of Eauze and Saint Mont, extolled the 40 virtues of Aygue Ardente. Its grapes are grown in three distinct areas: Haut-Armagnac, Ténarèze and Bas-Armagnac. Each domaine has its own unique recipe in contrast to its industrialized, twice distilled cousin, Cognac.

Armagnac is distilled once. No additives are permitted at any stage from grape to bottle. It is the most natural, and elegant brandy in France. The spectrum of producers range from the Domaine de Laberdolive touted by Michelin-starred restaurants, to Domaine de Saoubis, one of the few Armagnac producers that is completely organic and biodynamic.

Floc de Gascogne

This seductive aperitif, which means “bouquet of flowers” in Occitan was officially launched as Floc de Gascogne in 1954. It is a fruity, red or white liqueur composed of two-thirds grape juice and one-third young Armagnac. Once the grapes have been harvested and pressed, the unfermented grape juice is added to Armagnac distilled the previous year on the same property. Eighty percent of Floc de Gascogne AOC is produced in the Gers.

Nature

The Gers department, considered the heart of Gascony, is characterized by its tranquil landscape and agreeable microclimate. The hills are topped with medieval villages. The valleys are criss-crossed by rivers and streams. Wooded copses, folded into the landscape, often conceal a multitude of birds and wildlife. Rows of golden-yellow sunflowers stretch to the horizon in July.

With few towns or villages to interrupt a leisurely walk or ride, the countryside is Elysian. There are also a several cultivated gardens worth seeing. The Jardins de Coursiana botanical garden and arboretum covers 6 hectares, located in the lovely village of La Romieu. Palmerie de Sarthou in Bétous, is an 8-hectare oasis of botanical splendor. It has a conservatory orchard, children’s treasure hunt, Gascon farm, nursery, and integrated trails. www.jardinsdecoursiana.com; www.palmeraiesarthou.com

Farmers’ Markets

Almost every village in the Gers has a weekly farmers’ market, some of which have been ongoing for 700 years. Market days are typically held under a medieval covered marketplace or the shade of entwined plane trees. One can buy everything from farm fresh produce, delectable cheeses, and roasted chickens, to flowers, table clothes, shoes, and crockery by the kilo. There is literally something for everybody. Most market days begin at 8 and finish by noon. In some villages you can still hear the lunch siren sound, an old custom designed to call together farm workers out in the fields. During the summer months there are also night markets, a convivial social occasion for locals and tourists alike. The town of Samatan (photo above) is where you’ll find one of the biggest and best markets.

Festivals

Every village in the Gers has a festival whether it’s a gathering in the village foyer or an outright street party. There is no doubt that the Gerois love a good party. The 13th century village of Marciac hosts one of the biggest jazz festivals in Europe. Les Territoires du Jazz, takes place each August, a fortnight dedicated to jazz. The village on Vic-Fezensac hosts Tempo Latino at the end of July.

The village of Condom hosts Bandas every second weekend of May  with 35 bands and 2000 musicians (brass and percussion), accompanied by street dancing. In arenas throughout the summer the Course Landaise is welcomed. It is one of the 4 traditional forms of bullfighting, but there is no killing of the bull, it’s a purely acrobatic showcase.

Abbeys

There are some beautiful examples of religious architecture in the Gers. One of these, is the austere, yet elegant, Abbaye de Flaran, nestled below the hilltop village of Valence-sur-Baïse. The abbey was founded by the Cistercians in 1151. The complex, includes a medicinal garden and a small museum dedicated to Saint Jacques-de-Compostelle. In the former monks’ dormitory there is a display of  artworks by Cézanne, Renoir, Matisse, Picasso, Monet, Braque, from the “Simonow” collection. There are also temporary exhibitions of ancient or contemporary art, classical music concerts and many other activities throughout the year. www.tourisme-condom.com

Churches

Churches in the Gers were often built in the southern Gothic style, which emerged in France in 1140, and was dominant until the mid-16th century. They share three major characteristics: ribbed vaults, flying buttresses and strained glass with at least one rose window. Although most of these churches are technically called cathedrals, they are essentially basic houses of worship because they are no longer run by bishops. Most churches in the department were either damaged or destroyed during the Wars of Religion and the French Revolution. The smaller, picturesque churches that dot the countryside are always closed, but sometimes you can ask for a key at the mayor’s office. Cathedrals and small churches were an integral part of village life in the countryside.

Castles

There are more than 95 castles including towers, dungeons, and dovecotes (pigeonniers) in the Gers. Many chateaux are little more than ruins, while others are private homes. Some of them are open to the public, and are definitely worth a tour.

Chateau de Terraube  is a typically Gascon castle built around 1272 for the de Galard family, Merovingian dukes of Gascony. There is a date over the doorway confirms this. The de Galards have owned the castle ever since. It was enlarged in the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. Stone decorations include animals, people, gargoyles and coats of arms, including those of the Galards, on a chimney.

The chateau has been listed as a historic monument since 1947. It is open to the public during cultural events. There is an antique fair held on the chateau grounds in September. It’s a good place to look for silverware, jewellery, furniture, carpets, books, linen, paintings, and porcelain.

Chateau de Cassaigne  is comprised of two castles, each privately owned. The buildings date from the 13th, 15th and 18th centuries. Worth noting are the façades and roofs, including those of the common buildings, the moat and bridge, the 18th century dining room and its chimney and the ground floor kitchen in the north wing. The Château de Cassaigne has been listed as a historic monument since 1987. www.chateaudecassaigne.com

Chateau de Lavardens is a massive structure that dates from 1620 onwards. It was built based around an earlier castle from the 13th century, which was dismantled in 1496 by Charles VIII following a siege. It is open to the public and holds art exhibits and cultural activities year round.

National Treasure

D’Artagnan was not just a fictionalized character from Alexandre Dumas the elder’s novels! He was a real person by the name of Charles Ogier de Batz-Castelmore D’Artagnan. A valiant soldier, he became Captain of the Musketeers, and was answerable only to the Sun King, himself, Louis XIV.

D’Artagnan was born in the ancient village of Lupiac in 1611, son of Bertrand de Batz and Françoise de Montesquiou d’Artagnan. In the 1630’s he travelled to Paris and became one of the Musketeers, living a life of daring and espionage. In 1655 he became Captain of the Musketeers and in 1667 he was promoted to governor of Lille. Longing to return to the exciting life he once knew, Louis IV ordered him to the field of battle during the Franco-Dutch war. He died there, at the siege of Maastricht in 1673.

In the center of Lupiac you’ll find the Musée D’Artagnan housed in the Chapelle Notre Dame. If the weather is warm you might want to take very short drive to Lac de Lupiac. It’s a beautifully kept 32 acre swimming, fishing, canoeing, and kayaking lake with a Gidget Goes Hawaiian Bar serving drinks, food and entertainment all summer long. www.lupiac.fr

Find more info at: www.guide-du-gers.com/en

Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of southwest France where she runs French Country Adventures, which provides private, personally-guided, small-group food & wine adventures in the Gers/Gascony, the Pays Basque, Tarn and beyond…

More on the Gers area

Discover Gorgeous Gers

Road Trip Gers

The officially prettiest villages in the Gers

What to see and do in Auch

The post 10 Reasons to Love the Gers appeared first on The Good Life France.

In the regional natural park of Auvergne there are 80 volcanoes spread over an area 32km long and 4km wide. They are a sort of living open air museum, the fires that once raged in them, long burned out. Over time, nature has covered them in wild flower pastures, shrubs, forests and brilliant greenery and they now form a unique and distinctive plateau of peaks and slopes, cones and craters. Known as the Chaine des Puys, the area is a UNESCO listed world heritage site.

It’s an area which is ideal for walking and hiking, with routes to suit all levels.

Puy de Dôme

The Puy de Dôme is nicknamed the Giant of the Domes. Appearing to burst through the land, it’s the highest volcano in the Puys chain and is the symbol of Auvergne. The Romans chose it’s summit as the ideal place to build a temple to Mercury. You can’t help but pity the workforce who had to drag the materials 4,850 feet up those slopes. You can still see the remains of the temple at the top.

If you’re fit enough, a walk provides fabulous views. Or hop on the electric cog train that winds up to the top in a rather more civilised 15 minutes. From here, you’ll have a birds eye view over the regional natural park and the Auvergne volcanoes with the chain of Puys, the Dore mountains and the mountains of Cantal. On a fine day you can see as far as the city of Clermont-Ferrand, and beyond, the mountains of Forez. Puy is a geological term used locally in the Auvergne meaning volcanic hill.

Puy Mary

A classified “Grand Site de France”, Puy Mary is one of the most visited sites in Auvergne. And it’s a classified Grand National Site of France. Located in the south of the volcanic natural park, this iconic pyramid rises 1,787 metres above sea level and was formed some 6.5 million years ago. There are superb views  from the top which look over the mountains of Cantal, the dome of Puy Griou and the Plomb du Cantal. It’s not an easy walk to the peak but there are plenty of places to stop en route and get your breath back.

Puy de Sancy

At 1,885 metres, Puy de Sancy is the highest point of the Massif Central. It’s also the tallest volcano in metropolitan France. The alpine crest, steep slopes and jagged ridges contrast with the other peaks of the Massif Central. Take an exhilrating cable car ride almost to the top. It carries you more than 450 metres in four minutes! Then continue the 20 minute climb to the apex on foot, via a wooden staircase.

Puy du Pariou

You might recognise this rather small 8,000-year-old volcano. With its characteristic silhouette, It’s the star of Volvic water commercials. Reaching 1,290 metres above sea level, this volcano has two hiking trails (around 2 hours there and back) to the top where you have fabulous views over Clermont-Ferrand. You can even descend into its centre to explore the bottom of the crater (allow about an hour to walk down and back).

Puys de la Vache and de Lassolas

Twin volcanoes, born from the same eruption share key characteristics: their stony slopes indicate that their craters are not closed. The red earth of these volcanoes is Mars-like and they are great for a hike. A tour of Puy de la Vache takes about 1h30 (3 km), and Puy de Lassolas takes about 2h30 (5 km).

Puy de Lemptégy

Born 30,000 years ago, the Puy de Lemptégy was mined for its volcanic slag leaving it open in an unusual and striking way. The colours and layers of strata can be clearly seen which has made it a popular visit. It is like an amphitheater of volcanic history. You can enter the volcano on foot or take the 2.5 hour little train guided tour, an immersive experience which includes a simulator ride.

More on the Auvergne

Guide to a weekend in the Auvergne

Searching for a long lost cheese of the Auvergne

Discovering the Auvergne

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