The Vermillion Coast is in the Pyrénées-Orientales, in the Occitanie region, where the craggy Pyrénées mountains descend into the Mediterranean Sea. The view seen from high above the coast encompasses a rich landscape of geometrically captivating vineyards and jagged shoreline. Inextricably anchored between France and Spain, Collioure is considered the pearl of the Côte Vermeille, the Vermillion Coast. It takes its name from the iron ore present in the local rock, which gives it a rusty red colour.

Known since the time of the seagoing Phoenicians, this charmingly romantic, picture postcard village was the trading port for Roussillon during the middle ages and the home of Fauvism in the very early years of the 20th century.

What to see in Collioure

Collioure’s strategically built castle, which juts out to the turquoise Mediterranean, was once home to the Kings of Majorca and became the scene for many battles for possession fought between France and Spain which France finally won in 1793. Just minutes from the Spanish border, Collioure is contentedly French with characteristically Catalan influences.

Breathtaking scenery and delectable local cuisine bring connoisseurs of the senses to this, as yet, undiscovered part of the Mediterranean. Though its beaches are jammed during the summer like its famous anchovies packed in a can, you’ll rarely see an American tourist. For serious wine lovers, Collioure is home to a variety of rich, red wine including Banyuls vin doux. First used as a sacramental wine in churches throughout France, Banyuls was made popular by the Knights Templar during the crusades of the middle ages.

A favourite with artists

Enchanting Collioure is a feast for the eyes, mixing Spanish flair with a French sensibility. The incandescent light which bathes the village drew artists to its shore. In 1905, Henri Matisse visited Collioure and was inspired by the lovely scenery and vibrant colors. His paintings ignites a new movement in art called Fauvism that revolutionized the concept of colour.

Never a strict art movement it, nonetheless, became the first avant-garde wave of the early twentieth century. Picasso, Chagall, Derain, Dufy, and Braque followed. They often stayed at and met to discuss art at the Hotel des Templiers bar, paying for their drinks with art. The hotel is open to this day and boasts an astonishing collection of over a hundred original paintings and sketches. The Fauves (wild beasts) shocked the art world with their “orgy of pure color”.

Painting with pure, unmixed colors, they disregarded the reality of their subjects shapes and natural palette. To honor their contribution to the cultural landscape of Collioure, reproductions of their works appear in an open air museum on the “Chemin du Fauvisme.” Through twenty bronze frames scattered along the route you can see what they saw and painted. Incredibly the view has not changed, in some cases, in over 6 centuries.

Matisse said, “My choice of colours does not rest on any real scientific theory. It is based on observation, on feeling, on the very nature of each experience.”

Within easy reach of Carcassonne, Perpignan and Montpellier, Collioure on the Vermillion Coast is worth experiencing.

Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of southwest France where she runs French Country Adventures which provides private, personally-guided, small-group food & wine adventures into Gascony, the Pays Basque, Tarn, Provence and beyond…

What to see and do nearby

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The Archipel de Thau lagoon in the south of France is a bit of a secret place. Around 20km long, and separated from the Mediterranean by a sandbank, the L’Étang de Thau as it’s also called, is the largest salt lake in the Occitanie region. It’s a breeding ground for oysters and mussels. Bordering the lake are pretty villages surrounded by lush vineyards. From the commune of Agde to the town of Sète, on the Mediterranean side there are miles and miles of wide sandy beaches known as Marseillan Plage.

Rising out of the sea, and the dominant landmark of the lagoon, is the hill of Mont Saint-Clair. At its base lies Sète, known as the Venice of the region thanks to its canals and busy port. This lively town has a plethora of restaurants all around the port and almost all serve freshly caught fish. Dishes reflect a strong Italian influence due to the immigrant workers who helped create the canals in the 17^th century.

Sète is a cruise destination as well as France’s leading port for blue fish, sardines, anchovies and tuna. During the summer months, the banks of the main canal are filled with spectators watching water jousting, a form of entertainment dating back to the town’s inception in 1666. Teams dressed in white, board long boats and compete against each other to topple their adversary’s jouster with a 2.8m long wooden lance! In July, the open-air theatre with its enchanting backdrop of the Mediterranean, hosts a Jazz Festival that attracts top name artists.

Around the lagoon are little villages, each with its own charms.

Pretty villages

At Balaruc-les-Bains the Antique Mediterranean Garden is well worth a visit, laid out as it would have been in Roman times. Discover the  agriculture and horticulture of the Mediterranean, and the diverse use of flowers and plants in medicine, cooking, and cosmetics. The village is known for its therapeutic thermal waters.

At Bouzigues the secrets of the fishermen of L’Etang as well as oyster cultivation are explained at the Museum of Ethnographique.

And at the 12^th century Abbey of Valmagne you can take a wine tasting. Its architecture is based on the great cathedrals of Northern France. Original paintings are displayed on the stone walls of the cloisters, and there are regular exhibitions. Converted into a wine storehouse after the French Revolution, and thanks to its vineyards, it is known as the wine cathedral.

Marseillan

Make your way to Marseillan and en route you may spot pink flamingos in the shallow waters of the lagoon. Marseillan Port is a preserved heritage site with pretty cafés bordering the inlet. The town is the home of Noilly Prat vermouth, a favourite ingredient of James Bond for his famous “shaken not stirred” Dry Martini! Its history can be traced back to 1813, and a visit to the Noilly Prat museum will reveal many secrets including the spices and herbs in the ingredients list. Tours end with a tasting – perfect.

Marseillan’s market takes place on Tuesday morning. Its arrival turns the village from a quiet, sleepy town into a vibrant place. In a row of shacks where the boats come to off-load their catch from the Etang, you’ll find La Cabane Brasucade, a tiny family run eaterie facing onto the lagoon. Here, they marinate the oysters and mussels which are grown just offshore. You can’t miss the sight of row upon row of what look like huts on stilts in the lagoon. The freshly harvested, marinated molluscs are cooked over an open fire. Served with the local wine, such as Picpoul de Pinet, this is one of life’s finest pleasures!

Activities galore

There are numerous water sports including kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, sailing and kitesurfing. Bicycle paths are everywhere, including the 18 miles of Marseillan Plage. Beaches offer somewhere to relax, play and eat with numerous restaurants and bars.

There are also many walking paths in the area, some circumnavigating vineyards where you can enjoy tastings. This is an area of small, independent wine growers and often, it’s a matter of ringing a bell at the front door to access the tasting room.

This little part of paradise is authentic and irresistibly pretty, a well-kept secret to fall in love with.

www.archipel-thau.com

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Natasha Blair is a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers. She became a Francophile after studying French Civilisation for Foreigners at the Sorbonne University in Paris. When possible, she loves to travel with her pet passport carrying dog, Poppy, a Coton du Tuleur.

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

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The village of Cordes-sur-Ciel, rises 100 meters above the Cérou river valley, in the northwest corner of the Tarn department, 80 km northeast of Toulouse. The name means Cordes in the sky – find out what do see in and nearby the heavenly village of Cordes-sur-Ciel…

The two steep, natural limestone cliffs of the Puech de Mordagne peak, upon which Cordes rests, were the perfect building blocks for the first bastide (fortified village), built by Raymond VII, the Count of Toulouse, in 1222, to protect his northern territories.

Many of its first settlers were Cathars, and though Raymond VII was not a Cathar, he tolerated their religious practices, giving them freedom from being vassals of his court in exchange for reaping the rewards of their industry. The Cathars were a peaceful Christian religious sect that was adverse to the exploitive wealth of the Catholic church hierarchy – they, therefore, didn’t recognize priesthood.  They wouldn’t kill unless in self defence, believed in the equality of the sexes and held steadfast to the idea of reincarnation, an anathema to church doctrine.  After their popularity grew to what the Catholic church feared were alarming rates, they were literally erased from face of the earth by the first Albigensian Crusade.

In the first half of the 13th century, Cordes’ resident population was over 5,000. The hilltop village was extremely prosperous, harvesting its wealth from the wool, cloth and leather trades. Unfortunately, the plague, The Black Death pandemic, arrived in 1348 killing a quarter of its population. The Hundred Years War from 1337 to 1453 also took its toll on the village.

Cordes recovered in the second half of the 15th century with the advent of the pastel industry.

Pastel comes from a plant called woad and is the source of indigo, a strong, natural blue dye. For many years the dyeing industry was the mainstay of Cordes wealth until the widespread use of synthetic indigo led to its eventual demise.

The village fortunes, once again, declined in the 16th century during the Wars of Religion. And the completion of the Canal du Midi in 1681, which linked the Mediterranean to the Atlantic as the main trade route of the south, by passed Cordes altogether. By the time of the French Revolution,  the population had withered to just under 2,500. In 1870, mechanical embroidery looms brought prosperity back to Cordes, by producing the embroidered crocodile logo for Lacoste fashions.

During the 1940’s Cordes became an artistic center. Most famously, the artist Yves Brayer, known for his landscape paintings of Provence and the writer Albert Camus lived in Cordes and inspired the creation of the Cordes Academy of Art.During the summer months there is a tram that will take you from the bottom of the village to the top.  I will certainly return during the long summer days for a guided tour of Cordes incredibly well preserved 13th & 14th century gothic houses and hôtel paticuliers.

There are several must-see places to visit near Cordes including Albi (25 minutes drive). The city is known for having the largest brick cathedral in the world, Sainte-Cecile, and as the birthplace of Toulouse Lautrec. Albi’s Palais de la Berbie has the largest collection of Lautrec’s work in the world.

The fortified hilltop village, Puycelci, is about a 35 minute drive from Cordes. It’s one of the more picturesque Plus Beaux Villages de France, (officially one of the prettiest villages in France).

Gaillac, a village known for its excellent AOC wines is also close by.

Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of southwest France where she runs French Country Adventures which provides private, personally-guided, small-group food & wine adventures into Gascony, the Pays Basque, Tarn and beyond…

Secret Toulouse – the city’s unusual side!

Top things to see and do in Albi

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Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is best approached from the winding road of the Grand Chemin Val de Gellone. This approach gives you stupendous views of the town which sits atop a hill. When you leave, I recommend you go via the main street on the far side of the town. This long road is lined with boutiques, bistros and artisan workshops.

Officially one of the prettiest villages in France

Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is a Plus Beaux Village de France (an official classification for the prettiest villages in France). In the centre, the main square is home to an imposing plane tree. At more than 150 years old, it’s said to be the biggest plane tree in France. All around it, tables and chairs sprawl out from the cafés that line the square. It’s the perfect place to sip chilled wine and nibble on olives as you listed to the cicadas sing.

On one edge of the square sits the Abbey of Gellone. It’s one of the oldest Romanesque churches in France and a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) pilgrim route.

The abbey was founded in 804 by Guilhem, Count of Toulouse. When he moved to this remote location, his cousin the great Emperor Charlemagne, gave him what was said to be a relic of the Holy Cross. This made the abbey an important stop for pilgrims. The well-preserved abbey has an air of serenity to it, and there is a small museum behind the cool cloisters.

A village of legends

Guilhem made the town famous by defeating a giant who took up residence in the ruins of the town’s castle, accompanied by a magpie. The terrified locals asked Guilhem to help rid them of the giant. Guilhem dressed as a maid and, hiding his sword, set out to trick the beast. But he was recognised by the magpie who flew off to warn his mate. Sure of his superiority, the giant ignored the magpie (of course). He fought with the ‘maid’ who (of course) won. And Guilhem threw his opponent off a cliff. The locals claim that though many wild birds live in the area – no-one has ever seen a magpie in Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert since that day!

What to see in Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert

Around the abbey a warren of narrow cobbled winding alleys spread up and down the hilly town. As you wander, you’ll pass the 12^th century Tour des Prisons. Along the streets, water trickles from ancient fountains. Some of them are decorated with scallop shells, the pilgrims emblem and picturesque ancient houses lean against each under their sun-baked tiled roofs.

Despite the name, you won’t see a desert, the name comes from the fact not many people that lived there centuries ago. Today it gets rather more crowded, especially in peak summer months, though it barely has more than 250 permanent residents.

A stone’s throw from the village you’ll find another incredible monument – the medieval Pont du Diable which arches high above a steep gorge. Legend has it that yet again Guilhem was the hero. The bridge was taking so long to build that Guilhem did a deal with the devil. The evil one agreed to get the job done in return for the first soul to cross after completion. Guilhem sent a dog across and the devil, in a fit of pique tried to destroy the bridge. However he fell into the gorge below which became known as the Gouffre Noir (the black abyss). To this day, pilgrims and locals crossing the bridge throw a stone into the gorge – to keep the devil on the bottom!

A giant’s castle

Embedded in the hills are the remains of a Visigoth fortress. Alongside is an old mule path, trod for centuries by pilgrims and today part of a hike that begins at the edge of the village on the rue du Bout-du-Monde – the street of the end of the world. Take a detour to visit the ruins of the Giant’s castle, a very peaceful spot with fabulous views.

Janine Marsh visited Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert whilst on a CroisiEurope Rhone River tour from Sète to Arles, which includes excursions of the most iconic destinations en route.

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Situated on the south coast of France, Languedoc is one of the biggest wine producing regions in the world. Annual production is the equivalent of 1.8 billion bottles. That’s around 30% of the output of wine produced in France, and more than the whole of Australia’s production. Wine has been grown here since the 5^th century BC when the Greeks introduced vines to the area.

The wily Romans expanded production, knowing a good thing when they drank it. It was also their practice to plant vines as they expanded throughout France – they mixed wine with water because the alcohol kills microorganisms, which helped to keep the army strong and healthy. The prolific production of wine here doesn’t mean lower quality wines. If you’ve not tried Languedoc wine then you really are in for a treat, and if you have, then you’re probably a fan already.

The wines of Languedoc

In terms of quality, Languedoc’s wines are considered to be among the best in the world, especially for their red (around 60%) and rosé (around 19% and more than the whole of Provence) wines. However, quality white, sweet and sparkling wines are on the rise. Languedoc boasts varieties such as Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Roussanne, Marsanne and more! And the area is the largest producer or organic wines in France.

Many of the wineries are small family holdings that date back generations and that handing down of knowledge is part of what makes these wines so very special. Fermenting different grape varieties separately – plus the art of then assembling them – and growing methods, shape Languedoc AOCs, producing structured, full-bodied wines.

Among the 23 Languedoc appellations that unfurl across 40,000 hectares of vineyards, no two wines are alike. The only common denominator since Antiquity is the Mediterranean. The Mediterranean is to thank for the mild, bright winters, the russet of hot, dry summers, the fragrance of scrubland and the winds carrying the sea air.

Saint-Chinian wines

Nestled in the heart of the region of Languedoc-Roussillon the wine appellation Saint-Chinian (AOC Saint Chinian) is one of the best areas for wine. Spread across some 3,300 hectares, it’s home to 450 wine producers including 110 wineries and 8 cooperatives. There are rich pickings here for the wine connoisseur, with an abundance of different grapes, blends and processes. Historically producing red and rosés but more recently producing classified whites too. Whether you’re a serious and informed wine drinker or just an enthusiast starting out on your wine journey – the wines of Saint-Chinian are really pretty much unbeatable.

A historic area with long summers

And what about the area? Languedoc takes in the Roman town of Nîmes, with hints of the Camargue and the Cévennes. The arty city of Montpellier with its historical heritage and Béziers, a town that has endured 27 centuries of history peppered with periods of prosperity, revolt and massacre. Narbonne, described as a little Rome, and unforgettable Carcassonne, boasting the biggest medieval fortress-town in Europe.

It can get very hot here in the summer months. Autumns and springs are mild, although morning frosts are sometime seen into the month of April. Winters are mild and sunny with temperatures barely dipping below 0°C. Rainfall levels are low (among the lowest in France in some communes). The Tramontane wind is omnipresent, drying the vines and warding off disease. It is an ideal climate for growing vines. But the Mediterranean’s grasp is reduced in the far west of the region. In the appellations of Cabardès and Malepère in particular, the climate is transitional: the mild Atlantic meets the intense Mediterranean.

The terroir of Languedoc

And the terroir (that impossible to translate French word which refers to the soil and growing conditions) differs vastly across the region, depending on ancient geological formations. In some parts terraces of smooth pebbles, sandstone and marl. In others you’ll find limestone and shale, clay soil, pudding stone, sandy soil, molasse, etc. It gives wines grown here unique qualities and a whole range of very different tastes. There are countless aromatic variations – sometimes even within the same appellation. The soils play a very important role because they dictate what grape varietal is grown. Grapes are very picky about heat and water retention. They have very demanding preferences on what kind of soil type they like best! And because of the large array of soil types, Languedoc-Roussillon can offer many different wines to please every sipper.

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Pézenas in the Herault department, Occitanie is a lovely town to visit throughout the year, although it is more lively during the spring and especially summertime. The historic centre of the town of Pézenas in the south of France has an unexpected and charming artistic vibe. Once the political capital of the Languedoc region and an important trading town, Pézenas has known great periods of prosperity.

There is a big all day food and non-food market every Saturday. Also, the biennial Foire à la Brocante is worth a visit. It takes place every year on the first Sunday in May and the second Sunday in October.

There are several traditional artists and craftworkers in the town and you can follow in the footsteps of the famous French playwriter and actor Molière. Take a self-guided city tour and explore the town at your own pace.

Hôtel de Lacoste

It’s a joy strolling through beautiful Pézenas! And if you visit the Office de Tourism first, they offer you a guide (in English!) with a marked-out route along the town’s highlights. You can follow the long tour over about 2.5 hours or opt for the short version of about 1.5 hours. Starting just a few steps from the Tourist Information Office, follow the numbered arrows that indicate the route. The first monument on the tour is the Hôtel de Lacoste of the Montégut family on Rue François. Pop into the courtyard of this 16th-century hotel and marvel at its rib vaulted staircase.

Maison Consulaire

If you have time for lunch, there are several excellent restaurants on Rue François. Arriving at the Place Gambetta, don’t miss the Maison Consulaire. This classified 17^th century historic monument used to be a consular building and now functions as an art and crafts centre where 200 artists and craftworkers exhibit their work. It’s called La Maison des Métiers d’Art, and it’s definitely worth having a peek inside (it’s closed on Mondays and Sundays).

Maze of cobbled streets

Head next to the Hôtel de Peyrat, with its two corbelled turrets, which lead to the enclosure of the feudal castle. This castle, first mentioned in historical records in 990, was completely destroyed in 1632. Via the Rue du Château and Rue de la Foire you will go reach the city centre through a maze of little cobbled streets.

Facades

Through the Porte Faugères, one of the last remaining sections of the medieval town wall, you enter the Pézenas of the 17th and 18th centuries. From the Cours Jean Jaurès, with its many elegant facades, walk to the fountain on the Place de la République and back into town again. The last part of the walk is maybe a bit less interesting. Although… it will lead you to the Avenue Aristide Briand and Avenue Verdun where there are many antique and second-hand shops.

Tip: There is free parking at the Promenade du Pré Saint-Jean, although it is nearly impossible to find a spot during peak hours such as on a Saturday during the market. Otherwise, you can also try the paid parking lot Voltaire on Boulevard Voltaire, which is close to the Office de Tourism.

Office de Tourisme www.en.capdagde.com

By La Ramoneta, who lives between Montpellier and Perpignan. Find out more about the South of France on her blog www.laramoneta.com

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Narbonne in the Aude department, in Occitanie, southern France is a lively, medium-sized town. It’s also very sunny with around 3,000 hours of sunshine per year. That shouldn’t be your only reason to visit this lovely town though, as you can easily spend a day happily roaming the historic streets. Every street corner seems to reveal interesting remnants of its 2,500 years of history and everything is within walkable distance. And it’s just 15km from the Mediterranean sea.

Les Halles

If you visit Narbonne via the A9 highway, you’ll enter the town via the Quai Victor Hugo where there is free parking. Crossing the Pont de la Liberté gives you a postcard-view of Narbonne. From here, the Palais des Archevêques can be seen peeking above the plane trees and the colourful houses on the Pont des Marchands reflected in the Canal de la Robine. On the left of this canal is Narbonne’s famous covered market ‘Les Halles’. Since 1901, this Baltard-style cast-iron building has been a must-visit for foodies.

Palais des Archevêques

Walking toward the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville by following the Cours de la République will reveal the imposing Palais des Archevêques step by step. The Archbishop’s Palace forms, together with the cathedral, the medieval heart of Narbonne and now hosts the town hall and a museum.

You can visit the museum inside the Palais des Archevêques daily from June to September. During the other months it is closed on Tuesdays. Buying a ticket also gives you access to the 13th century Donjon Gilles Aycelin, the tower on the left if you are standing facing the palace. From the top you’ll have great views over the city.

Founded in 118 BC, Narbonne was the first Roman colony outside of Italy. An important vestige of this ancient civilisation is still visible in the middle of the square: La Via Domitia. This was the original Roman road which connected Italy’s Rome with Cadiz in Spain. It is also a great spot to enjoy an ice cream.

Saint-Just et Saint-Pasteur Cathedral

The Passage de l’Ancre, a most charming cobblestoned alley between the old and new palaces (Le Palais Vieux and Le Palais Neuf), brings you to the vaulted cloister of the Saint-Just et Saint-Pasteur Cathedral. This inner garden offers some welcoming shadow while admiring the many gargoyles.

Since the 4th century, several religious buildings have been built on this spot. However, it wasn’t until the 13th century that the construction of today’s cathedral began. This overambitious, medieval project was never completed though, which means it has no nave. This was mainly due to defensive reasons and misfortune, like lack of resources and the plague, which spread to Narbonne in the 14th century.

Jardin de l’Archevêché

You can visit the vaulted cloister and admire the cathedral from the inside most days

Tip: It’s worth walking around the cathedral (via the Rue Droite and Rue Armand Gauthier). Here, you will find a small, but serene garden along the Rue Gustave Fabre, called Le Jardin de l’Archevêché. And if you go up to the terrace of the garden, you will find a hidden selfie spot, right on the giant public bench. This ‘Banc Public’ was created by Lilian Bourgeat for the In Situ 2014 festival.

Tip: When it comes to parking, if you’re lucky you may find a spot at the free parking lot just before arriving in Narbonne (on Quai Victor Hugo). If you don’t find a place here, you can drive further along Quai Victor Hugo for paid parking or try the Cours Mirabeau parking lot (paid as well).

Office de Tourisme www.narbonne-tourisme.com

By La Ramoneta, who lives between Montpellier and Perpignan. Find out more about the South of France on her blog www.laramoneta.com

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Béziers, in Herault, Occitanie in the far south of France is a bit of a hidden gem. Whether you love strolling through picturesque little streets, having a glass of wine at on the terrace of a charming café or indulging your curiosity for French history – it’s all here.

Here’s a guide to Beziers, one of the oldest cities in France.

Place Jean Jaurès

A good starting point for a walk around Béziers is La Place Jean Jaurès which had a complete makeover in 2018. This big square is a beautiful and spacious place that’s really popular with the locals. It’s also the meeting point for kids to cool down and play in the fountain, which consists of 50 little spurts of water that pop up unexpectedly to increase the fun. When the summer nights fall, it gets even cooler with colourful lights and a music fountain show. All this under the watchful eye of Pierre-Paul Riquet’s statue.

Les Allées Paul Riquet

La Place Jean Jaurès leads to Les Allées Paul Riquet. Born in Béziers, he was the creator of the 240 kilometres long waterway of the Canal du Midi that connects the Mediterranean Sea with Toulouse. At the other end you’ll find Béziers’ Municipal Theatre. If you walk to the back of the theatre, you can spot one of the city’s amazing trompe-l’oeils.

Place de la Madeleine

On to La Place de la Madeleine. This square was named after the Romanesque Madeleine Church, mentioned for the first time in 1092. It’s hard to believe that this peaceful and picturesque square was once the scene of the bloodiest episode in Bézier’s history. In 1209, crusaders of the Albigensian crusade brutally massacred thousands and thousands of inhabitants of the town. Men, women and children had come to the church to seek refuge, but instead of being protected, they were burned to death. The scars of this awful event are still visible to this day.

Les Halles

Another place in Béziers that has had a makeover is Les Halles. This covered market still has its original cast-iron building in Baltard style and dates from 1891. Open daily except Monday, from 07h00 to 13h30, this is a fantastic place to find loads of local produce. It isn’t as big as Les Halles in Narbonne, but you can still find an excellent selection of seafood, cheeses, meat and vegetables. There are several restaurants in and around Les Halles, so it also makes a great stop for lunch.

Saint-Nazaire Cathedral

One of Béziers’ landmarks is the Saint-Nazaire Cathedral. As Béziers sits on a rocky spur, you can already see the cathedral from afar. Like so many other monuments, the Saint-Nazaire Cathedral has known rough times as well. Dating from the 10th century, it was heavily damaged during the 12th-century crusade.

Our little city guide of Béziers ends here, at the terrace in front of the cathedral, gazing over the great Orb plain as far as the Haut-Languedoc Regional National Park.

Béziers is a great place to visit year-round. Although not as touristy as more popular South of France towns, like Carcassonne and Pézenas for example, the best time to visit temperature-wise is in spring or Autumn.

Tip: Two of the best parking spots are the paid parking lot on Place Jean Jaurès and the one on Place de la Madeleine, also called ‘Parking Les Halles 1’. Both parking lots are in the middle of the city centre and a perfect starting point for your stroll through Béziers.

Tourist Office: www.beziers-mediterranee.com

By La Ramoneta, who lives between Montpellier and Perpignan. Find out more about the South of France on her blog www.laramoneta.com

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A 10-day women-only tour of the most historic, stunning and fascinating places in the south of France. From the sun-kissed region of Provence to the ancient towns of Occitanie, discover the very best of the south of France. Indulge in the most amazing food and wine. And experience real France…

The best of the south of France tour

Starting in the Tarn, in the ancient city of Albi, you’ll explore it’s historic streets, awe-inspiring cathedral and see the work of the city’s famous son, Henri de Toulouse Lautrec, and you’ll also get to see the village of Lautrec, famous for its pink garlic and blue pastel dyes. Visit tiny Cordes-sur-Ciel, a medieval perched town that will hold you spell-bound with its sky-high beauty. This artists’ center was once home to the philosopher and poet Albert Camus. Discover gorgeous little villages most visitors miss and remarkable towns such as Gaillac which is where wine in France was first made, and of course you’ll be doing a tasting.

Charming and authentic villages

Then on to Bouches-du-Rhône when you’ll absorb the captivating looks and atmosphere of pretty Pézenas. The historic center is teeming with artists’ studios, captivating cafés and irresistible bookstores and antique shops. In ravishing St-Remy-de-Provence you’ll immerse yourself in the town where Vincent Van Gogh was inspired to create an incredible 150 canvases while convalescing close by. Less well known Eygalières is completely charming, surrounded by vineyards and olive orchards. And as you’ll be there on market day, you’ll see it at its liveliest. It’s the perfect place to sit sipping a glass of something delicious and watch the life of the village go on.

Nearby Uzès  is an absolutely gem of French Renaissance and Romanesque architecture and the village of Fontvielle, considered one of France’s most famous literary landmarks will make your heart skip a beat at its picturesque charm. Witness the jaw-dropping colours of the ochre landscape of Roussillon, the “Colorado of France” from a stunning hilltop village. And go antiquing in irresistible Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, the biggest antiques centre in the south of France.

Relax on this luxury tour

Everything is organised for you on this luxury tour. Transport, accommodation and fabulous restaurants organised by your host Sue Aran, an American who has lived in the south of France for many years. This is a small group tour. There’s no rushing about. No hurrying from one place to the next. It’s all about the experience. Getting to know the real France, tasting the most fabulous food and wine, feeling the atmosphere.

This is a unique and very special small group tour and places are limited. Find out more at: FrenchCountryAdventures.com

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Montpellier, the capital city of Herault, Occitanie was once a tranquil fishing village. Now it’s a cool city with a hip vibe. Our essential guide to Montpellier reveals a city of surprises and beauty.

With an average of 300 days a year of sun, a historic centre, architecturally thrilling new town, fabulous bars and restaurants, sandy beaches, plus culture by the bucket load – Montpellier has something to please absolutely everyone.

Guide to Montpellier

Place de la Comédie – the heart of Montpellier

The pedestrianised place de la Comedie is the beating heart of the city and a popular meeting point. The locals call it Place de L’Ouef (Egg Square), thanks to its oval shape. Don’t miss Café Riche in the square, it’s an institution and favourite meeting spot for locals. Cool down with a refreshing Perrier water whose source is between Montpellier and nearby Nimes.

Read more about the beautiful old town of Montpellier

MoCo – an art ecosystem

MOCO, a brand new contemporary art centre that opened its doors in June 2019, showing temporary exhibitions from international collectors.

It’s an art “ecosystem” which pulls three major venues together to bring a diverse and enormous range of contemporary art to the city. There are two exhibition centres and an art school: the Hôtel des collections, in the former Montcalm hotel, a 19th century mansion, with exhibitions of international collections (public or private); La Panacée, free contemporary art centre located in the former historic Royal College of Medicine; and the ESBA (Montpellier Superior Fine Arts School).

Tip: La Panacée has a great restaurant with an architecturally chic interior and shady terrace. It’s seriously trendy and full of savvy locals who love the great value lunch menu, fabulous fresh local produce and the fact that you can borrow books from the shelves. The Sunday morning brunch is very popular. Unlike the rest of the week you can’t book in advance so get there early to bag a table.

Tip: Lovers of urban culture will enjoy the Halle Tropisme in the 4,000m2 Creative City space in a series of former army warehouses, dedicated to cultural and creative industries. Details: www.montpellier3m.fr/moco

Montpellier’s cultural scene

Deconsecrated in the 1980s, the church of Carré Sainte Anne is now a spectacular setting for contemporary art exhibitions and installations. As the sun pours through the beautiful stained-glass windows, the artworks take on an extra special glow.

Founded in 1828 by artist François-Xavier Fabre in what was his home and gallery, the huge Musée Fabre has a fabulous collection of more than 800 works spanning several centuries. Over the years the venue has grown and now occupies three buildings. Don’t miss the monumental and provocative works by Pierre Soulages, one of France’s greatest living artists. You can easily spend half a day browsing at this museum and on a hot day, it’s lovely and cool inside!

Read our guide to 24 hours for art lovers in Montpellier 

The new districts of Montpellier

The city has been growing for a while. At first it went north towards the hills. But, in a calculated decision to control the growth and make it something special, the town is spreading south to the sea. The initiative was hatched in 1977 by then Mayor Georges Frêche. The goal was to create the perfect city. The architectural team started with a blank canvas and turned the outskirts of Montpellier into a real-life laboratory of architecture. It is a total contrast to the old town and yet, it works.

The Antigone neighborhood, named after the ancient Greek play, was erected principally during the 1970s and 1980s. It has plenty of grand neo-classical style buildings and wide-open boulevards, including the central axis, nicknamed the Champs-Elysées by locals. The most innovative architects in the world have designed buildings here but it’s happened in a very organised way. It’s not a messy hotchpotch of looks, there’s a consistent theme being woven through this new part of Montpellier. Wide open spaces, building height restrictions, even the look has to a certain extent been controlled although architects have been given a free hand overall. The New York Times listed Montpellier in its top 100 architectural cities to see before you die.

Tip: Don’t miss L’Abre Blanc. Designed by architects Sou Fujimoto, Nicolas Laisné and Manal Rachdi, it’s bold and architecturally stunning. Gourmets will love the chefs brasseries by Charles Fontes (La Réserve Rimbaud) and Eric Cellier (La Maison de la Lozère) on the ground and first floor. There’s an art gallery and terraced tapas bar with fabulous city views on the 17^th floor.

Markets

French markets are the best! And, there are several markets in Montpellier including Marché des Arceaux in the Peyroux district, west of the old town. In summer the smell of lavender and cheese, just baked bread, warm fruit and slowly roasting chickens is nothing short of drool-worthy. Most people miss this market – don’t, it’s wonderful!

There’s also a covered market, Les Halles Laissac, in the old town. Here you can buy fresh produce and enjoy it straight away at a table beneath the vibrant stained-glass dome designed by a student and teacher team from the MoCo Ecole Supérieure des Beaux-Arts.

Take a hike

The Promenade du Peyrou is a long street which cuts through the centre of the city and leads to the Place Royale du Peyrou which was built to showcase a statue of Louis XIV on horseback. At one end is the Porte du Peyrou, a triumphal Arch. Many people think the arch is Roman, but in fact the Romans never went to Montpellier. It was built in the 17th century, modelled after Porte Saint-Denis in Paris. The Peyrou esplanade gives a panoramic view over the city and the surrounding area.

The ancient city-centre of Montpellier is packed with winding, medieval streets lined with historic buildings, perfect for an eye-popping wander. Rue de la Valfère, rue du Bras de Fer, rue de la Argenterie all offer visitors a glimpse of bygone times.

The city is rich in street art but don’t miss place Édouard Adam, not far from the train station, with its huge trompe l’oeil depicting the exterior of several houses. The tourist office runs a guided street art tour.

Montpellier has a rich history which includes the oldest university of medicine in Europe and the Jardin des Plantes was once a medicinal garden. Today it’s a tranquil and shady oasis in the city, ideal for a stroll or just to sit and relax.

For a different sort of walking tour, discover the immense Aqueduct de Castries, built in the 18th century, inspired by the nearby Roman Pont du Gard. It’s the largest hydraulic structure ever created in France for a private individual. Visit the Tourist Office for details about the Castries trail.

From the city to the Beaches

A visit to the seaside is an integral part of the Montpellier experience. Hop on tram line 3 in the city centre for an 8km, 20 minute city centre to Pérols, the stop is a mere 800m from the Mediterranean Sea. From April to September, beach cafés open their doors and there are pop-up restaurants and event/concerts.

Tip: Take a bike ride out to the beach, through the Antigone and Port Marianne districts and along the Mediterranean trail between vineyards and lagoons…

Eating out

In this lively city, there’s no shortage of bars and restaurants to choose from. If you’re looking for a bar with a relaxed vibe and great wine list, L’Atelier Bar a Vin in the Place de la Canourgue is hard to beat. Locals love it but visitors rarely find this romantic square. It’s the oldest square in Montpellier,  and from here you have a wonderful view over the St Pierre Cathedral. For sheer glamour, the terrace of the Hotel Mercure is perfect for an aperitif in its lush green courtyard (you don’t have to be resident to enjoy it).

What to see close by

Montpellier is a great base for seeing the surrounding area.  Just 20km north is the Pic Saint-Loup mountain. Go kayaking in Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert (bus 308 if you don’t have a car). Take the train to Séte and explore the lovely town that’s famous for its oyster production…The tourist office offers a wide range of day trips to local areas. www.montpellier-france.com

Nimes, just 25 minutes away by train, is home to one of the best preserved Roman arenas in the world – it is a stunning sight. The Roman influence is everywhere in this city, from street names to a superbly preserved temple and several ruins.

More on Nimes

Nimes Museum of Romanité: The Museum of Roman History in Nimes has a collection of 5000 exhibits ranging from mosaics and murals to ceramics and statues. Through innovative scenography you’ll discover the fascinating Gallo-Roman period of this area. There’s also a 3,500 m² archaeological and Mediterranean garden. A green roof terrace offers panoramic views over the city.

Pont du Gard

23km from Nimes is one of the most famous Roman monuments of the area, the Roman Aqueduct Pont du Gard. This giant of an engineering masterpiece is three stories and 50 metres high and 2,000 years old. It stands shimmering in the barren heat against miles of unspoilt landscape and in total defiance of the centuries. You can take a tour and there’s a fascinating museum. Read more on Pont du Gard.

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