The Loir Valley is situated between Le Mans, Tours, Laval and Angers. The little Loir, a cousin of the larger Loire, into which the river flows, means ‘dormouse’. This conjures a very apt description of the area. Sleepy, rolling countryside, with charming villages and enchanting towns that seem to belong to a past era when life was less busy and complicated.

The Loir Valley, like it’s neighbour, is brimming with chateaux. There are more than 140 private and privately-owned châteaux and manor houses. Most of them were rebuilt after the Hundred Years War, several were built in the second half of the 15th century and the Renaissance and many have the most glorious gardens. There are also some wonderful wide open spaces, perfect for those who love to get close to nature…

Bike and hike

The Loir Valley has introduced two new exciting cycle routes. ‘Unforgettable – Zoo and Castle’ is 48.5km long and follows the ‘green route’ between Baugé-en-Anjou, La Flèche and the commune of Clefs-Val-d’Anjou. It is a very pretty, sign-posted route that also passes two amazing castles – the Châteaux du Lude and de Baugé. The latter is famous for its outstanding seventeenth century pharmacy that still contains many lotions and potions from that period, including goats’ blood, woodlouse powder or mummified fingers!  Also unmissable on this route is the amazing Zoo of La Flèche.

“Between Stone and Marsh” is a 36 km cycle route along an old railway line. From La Flèche to Clefs-Val d’Anjou and Fougeré, you’ll ride past manor houses and beautiful residences. Take the return path through the Cré-sur-Loir marshes.

For bike hire, including electric bikes and safety items, just pop into the local tourist office of La Flèche or La Chartre-sur-le-Loir

Walkers will love the 98km Gr de Pays. This marvellous hiking route is split into five different parts. Stroll through vineyards, orchards, the forest itself of course, and picturesque villages.

Cré-sur-Loir Marshes

The Cré-sur-Loir Marshes carry the Natural Reserves of France label. The variety of flora and fauna is outstanding. Discover reeds, alluvial woods and wet meadowlands on three different trails from a kilometre to 2.7 kilometres. Pick up a free discovery pack in the tourist office of Loir Valley!

Leisure Lakes

Take to the water in summer! At Mansigné, Marcon and the lovely La Monnerie just outside of La Flèche you’ll find tons of water sports. Sailing, canoeing, kayaking, pedalos, paddle boarding, swimming, whilst beach volleyball, beach football, cycling, hiking, kite flying, tennis, archery, orienteering, even boomeranging can also be enjoyed.

The archeological site of Cherré

Cherré, between Le Lude and Vaas, in Aubigné-Racan, is where you’ll find the remains of an ancient theatre built in Gallo-Roman times – 1st – 3rd centuries. In a semi-circular form, it shows us the three divisions of a Greco-Roman theatre: stage, orchestra, Koilon. According to archaeologists, this theatre must have stood at more than twelve metres and could hold 3,000 spectators. It is completely free to visit, and guided tours are provided on request.

Château du Lude

The monumental Château du Lude spans four centuries of French architecture. It was revamped in the 19th century in the neo-Gothic style, when an English Garden was added with a botanical walk. Mme La Comtesse de Nicolay, the current incumbent, has developed a particularly successful permaculture as well as now using the produce of the orchards and gardens too to make jams and pickles that are sold to visitors. The Rose Garden has a rare collection of blooms that flower anytime between May and December.

The exceptional Bercé Forest

The Bercé Forest covers more than 3,000 hectares of oaks and 2,400 hectares of conifers producing the highest quality timber – particularly sought after in the barrel making industry. It is a great place for sporting activities such as cycling, walking, hiking, horse-riding and mountain biking.

Vauboin Priory Hortus Conclusus – Jardin Remarquable

The contemporary gardens of the Vauboin Priory have received the Jardin Remarquable label from the Ministry of Culture. This green wonder is the result of the work of a passionate gardener who describes himself as a “natural art sculptor”. The two staggering gardens surround a fourteenth century cottage at the foot of a limestone hill with a hundred year old box plantation.

Caroline Terrace, an architectural folly

What an amazing gift of love! Amédée de Nonnant, the owner of Château de Poncé, ordered the building, in 1830, a neo-gothic styled terrace (The Caroline Terrace) in honour of his wife Caroline. This three-level brick and stone construction is set against a tufa cliff and behind the Renaissance Style Château.

A veritable hidden gem

There’s more to the little Loir without the “e” than you might think…

Thanks to Gillian Green, Gillian Green PR for some great tips for visiting the Loir Valley.

www.vallee-du-loir.com

The post Wide open spaces to visit in The Loir appeared first on The Good Life France.

Situated in southwest France, in the department of Loire-Atlantique, region Pays de la Loire, Nantes was once the capital of Brittany. It was independent from France and home to one of the country’s largest ports.

Although not directly accessed by the sea, the city’s strategic historic location on the confluence of the Loire and Erdre rivers gained the city its historical nickname of Venice of the West’ (La Venise de l’Ouest). The rivers are what made Nantes a thriving city with a solid base for ship building and traders arriving from far away.

Today, parts of the river system have been reclaimed for modern roads and tramways. Large steel cranes and the dry docks are the only remains of its former industrial glory. And, Nantes continues to evolve, transforming spaces where factories and warehouses once stood into creative and leisure facilities, implementing innovative ways to enhance the joie de vivre of the city.

There’s a great balance of preserving the past whilst introducing the future and ensuring residents have a good quality of life. It is no wonder that Nantes has consistently been voted one of the top three best places to live in France. And, its why Nantes makes a great weekend getaway.

The Machines de L’Île

Ready to channel your inner child? Cross the river to Île de Nantes and enjoy a ride on the Grand Elephant or play with the sea creatures on The Carrousel des Mondes Marins. You can’t help but smile at the mechanical fairy-tales of The Machines de L’Île.

The park was born from the imagination of Francois Delaroziere and Pierre Orefice. The Machines de L’Île brings to life the fantastical stories of French novelist Jules Verne. It also pays homage to the industrial heritage of the city. At the Gallery, mechanical caterpillars and cranes wow visitors. And, don’t miss out on a visit to the workshop where the magic happens. It is guaranteed fun for the young, and the young at heart.

Follow the green line

Every year during summer months, there’s a trail of creative discoveries so that visitors and locals can explore the city and

find surprises en route. Indicated by a lime green paint line running along the streets, The Voyage à Nantes is a 12 km trail that zigzags in and out of elegant squares. It takes in major sites as well as back-streets. You’ll uncover unexpected works of art dotted around the city. They might include a stackable chair roller-coaster, tree climbing bears or random sculptures.

Look out for the Micro’Home by Myrtille Drouet on Rue Du Puits-d’Argent. The quirky house is 5m above ground, at 2m wide it contains a living room/kitchen, bathroom and bedroom. It’s an imaginative way of life in the city and you can actually stay in it too. Book with www.nantes-tourisme.com

Artists have reinvented shop signs as imaginative interpretations, injecting fun into shopping. Whenever there is a painted eye along the green line, you’re sure to find a surprise above. Most art installations are temporary, but some are so loved by locals they have become permanent fixtures.

Château des ducs de Bretagne

Dominating the historic Bouffay quarter is the former residence and fortress of the last Duke of Brittany, François II and his daughter Anne of Brittany. She is famous for being twice Queen of France, having married Charles VIII and Louis XII. After the integration of Brittany into French rule in the 1532, the château became a residence for the kings of France.

Today, the château, a monumental landmark, is home to the Musee d’Histoire de Nantes (Nantes History Museum). The museum divides its exhibitions into themes. From the Roman conquerors through its Brittany connections, the World Wars to the city’s industrial heritage, as well as the dark history of the slave trade. It is a part of the city’s past that it has found hard to come to terms with, much of the population are descendants of both traders and slaves. The museum aims to educate locals and visitors. There is also a memorial, a walkway dug into the shores of the river Loire featuring historical and geographical information, statistics, maps and timelines, as well as testimonials etched into its glass walls.

The memorial is open to public for free and makes a solemn follow up after learning about the slave trade at the history museum. memorial.nantes.fr

Trentemoult neighbourhood

Cross the Loire on the Navibus ferry and alight in the colourful Trentemoult neighbourhood, an old fishing village. It’s a brilliantly artistic and gastronomic detour. Locals love to come here to dine and socialise, to enjoy the vintage atmosphere and watch the sun set over the Loire. The narrow streets are bright, the buildings appear haphazardly piled together giving it a quirky charm, and it’s home to around 20 professional artists.

Le Lieu Unique

This is the only remaining tower of what was once the Lu biscuit factory, today, Le Lieu Unique is a space for individual expression. Have a drink at the bar, enjoy a night out at the theatre, browse for a book at the library or relax with a spa treatment at the hammam: www.lelieuunique.com

Gastronomic Delights

Locals Love: Creperie Heb-Ken. A friendly, no-fuss popular creperie in the centre of the Graslin Quarter with an extensive menu of crepes for all tastes from savoury to sweet, it is always busy! Get there early or risk a long wait. The patio is especially pleasant in the summer. www.heb-ken.fr

La Civellet: On the waterfront of the Trentemoult neighbourhood, excellent seasonal French dishes in a lively atmosphere. Worth crossing the river for. www.la-civelle.com

Wine and Dine – Brasserie la Cigale. It is impossible to walk past this brasserie without stopping to peek. Brasserie la Cigale on the Gralin Square was once the headquarters of the city’s Surrealists and is today a popular gastronomic destination. The seafood platter is seriously impressive as is the elegant interior: www.lacigale.com

Indulge your sweet tooth: Maison Georges Larnicol – MOF: A famous Biscuiterie Chocolaterie in the Pommeraye Passage shopping mall. The sweet scent of their pastries fill the air. Don’t miss the ‘gâteau nantais’, an almond based cake with rum – a Nantes speciality and their Kouign Amann cakes are the best! larnicol.com

How to get there

EasyJet has a base in Nantes with flights to the UK and European destinations: www.easyjet.com

Eurostar has regular services to Paris from London/Ebbfleet International. From Paris it’s just 2 hours by TGV to Nantes. Check out the new interactive robot at the departure lounge in St Pancras station. Not only does it answer your questions, it can read facial expressions and even pose for photographs if you ask nicely! www.eurostar.com

How to get about

A Nantes Pass gives you access to public transport and 28 tourist sites. Available for 24, 48 and 36 hours from Nantes Tourist office. For active travellers, Bicloo offers self-service bike hires with 123 stations in the city: bicloo.nantesmetropole.fr

Where to stay

There are hotels for all budgets, but for those who enjoy comfort with history the 18th century former townhouse now Hotel de France on Place Graslin is wonderful.

The post How to spend a weekend in Nantes, Pays de La Loire appeared first on The Good Life France.

The food scene in Le Mans catches most people out – in a good way! If you thought Le Mans was a town you go to just to watch a world-famous race, think again. There’s lots to see and do here and you might be suprised to learn it has one of the prettiest medieval towns in France.

But back to food.

Here are some of our favourite restaurants in Le Mans and a taster of what you’ll find there to whet your appetite…

Wine and dine in Le Mans

Don’t miss the chance to taste Jasnières wine while you’re in Le Mans, it’s rarely seen outside the local area and is absolutely delicious. It’s not made in huge quantities and the locals keep most of it to themselves, so stock up at the 15th century Cave de Pedro – a feast for the senses in the Pont-Lieu district of the old town. Wine master Pedro has a brilliantly stocked shop, not just wine but local specialities too. Book in advance for a wine tasting – he speaks English and if you love wine, you’re in for a serious treat here. Book via Facebook at Cave de Pedro.

Where to take a pit stop in Le Mans!

Wine and Dine: Auberge de Bagatelle. This Michelin starred restaurant serves food that looks amazing and tastes even better. Located in an old inn that’s been exquisitely renovated, Chef Jean-Sébastien Monné creates dishes that you don’t forget in a hurry. The lunch “Pleasure” menu is incredibly good value at just 32 Euros for 2 courses, 38 Euros for 3 courses (2019) – seriously, you don’t want to miss a course – each one is mouth-watering delicious. Push the boat out with the 6 course tasting menu – utterly delectable. Details: www.aubergedebagatelle.fr

Locals love: Café du Jet d’Eau, next to the Cathedral at the  base of the Escalier du Jet d’Eau. Locals were devastated when this much loved local cafe closed for a short while and when it was reopened in 2015, there was celebration! It’s the perfect place to relax for market shoppers and watching the world go by. A plate of oysters, tangy cheeses, crunchy baguette and classic French dishes in a bustling and welcoming atmosphere. Great for a coffee stop, aperitifs, lunch and dinner!

Fun and friendly: La Ciboulette (14 rue Vielle-Porte) is charming, authentic and fun. The seasonal menu is popular with the locals.

Luscious lunch stop: Head to the Domaine de l’Epau around 10km from the centre of town (you can go via tram). Enjoy the picturesque countryside and then indulge in a delicious lunch at restaurant Le Verger. There’s a firm emphasis on organic and seasonal here.

Snack-attack: For something a bit different, the 13th century Royal Abbey of Epau (next door to the Domaine de l’Epau) really fits the bill. Great for a tour of the monumental abbey and beautiful grounds just a few minutes from Le Mans town centre (easy to reach by tram). And, Sylvie in the cafe makes exceedingly good cakes. Sitting outside in the sunshine, enjoying a light lunch, cake, coffee and drinking in the sight of this ancient building and its grounds = fantastic.

Wine O’Clock

Looking for a drink after dark? Head to Le Verre Tige bistro and brewery in the medieval old district. Lovely friendly staff are happy to advise on wine and dishes. Sit on the terrace on a fine evening or stay cosy inside in this ancient building when it’s chily. (48, Grande-Rue).

Food specialities of Le Mans

Indulge your sweet tooth at biscuit shop La Sablésienne (6 Rue de la Perle). Perfect for a souvenir, if they make it home in one piece!

Chocolate heaven: Bellanger offer cooking lessons and the most irresistible chocolates and sweet treats (2 rue de l’Etoille).

Cake my day: Takayanagi has the locals queuing up. Japanese Chef Takayanagi says: “Cakes are simple, but complex; I create French cakes but with Japanese influences”. For instance in this shop you can get a Paris-Tokyo, rather than a Paris-Brest. They serve a traditional Japanese lunch here so, head to the little shop in rue du Tertre for your Japanese-French fix.

Le Mans Market

If you’re a market fan you won’t be disappointed when you visit Le Mans. There are several markets from Tuesday to Sunday (see the tourist office website below for details). One of the best  is at Place du Jet d’Eau  (Wenesday, Friday, Sunday) in front of the huge Cathedral. Don’t miss the mushroom man, his champignons are a legend here. Fabulous vegetables, fruit, bread, cheese, fish, Plantagenet honey – a vibrant atmosphere and a picturesque setting.

In and around Le Mans

What to see and do in Le Mans – it really isn’t a town you should race through.
Le Mans Motor Museum
Sound and Light Show – Nuits Chimieres Le Mans
La Fleche, not far from Le Mans is a historic little town with a fabulous market
The Chateau de Lude, an amazing time warp that’s still lived in…
Baugé – the most charming little French town that houses an incredible secret – one of the most well preserved apothecaries in France!
The Forest of Bercé – ancient woodlands that once belonged to the Sun King
The wine route of the Loir – little known, off the beaten track – the most delicious wine that you won’t find anywhere else…

How to get about in Le Mans

The tram system is efficient and cheap 1,50 € single ticket (valid for 1 hour); 4,20 € day pass (valid for 24 hours) – both are also valid on the bus network.

How to get to Le Mans

With trains taking around an hour from Paris It’s an easy day trip to Le Mans.

Where to stay in Le Mans

Hotel Concordia which is very reasonably priced.
Le Doyenné: in what has to be one of the best locations right next to the Cathedral in an ancient house.

Tourist office Le Mans, 16 Rue de l’Étoile www.lemans-tourisme.com; more on things to do in France at uk.france.fr

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Discover the secrets and charms of Le Mans – it’s a town you shouldn’t race through….

More than a quarter of a million people head to the small city of Le Mans in the department of Sarthe, Pays de La Loire each June for the epic Le Mans 24 Hours – one of the most famous car races in the world. The majority of them watch the race, enjoy the local cuisine and the friendly bars and leave.

More than just motoring

Amazingly most of them never even realise that there is a most beautiful old town just a few steps away from that legendary race course which runs through the streets of the newer parts of Le Mans. They don’t spot the Roman ruins, they miss the cobble-stoned alleyways lined with half-timbered houses. And, they haven’t a clue about the fabulous medieval architecture.

They don’t know that on the outskirts of the town there is an astounding historic abbey where a queen is buried, as well as a fabulous nature reserve with a spectacular restaurant. There’s a famous saying, don’t be a tourist, be a traveller, and Le Mans is the perfect town to illustrate just why you shouldn’t race through – but take your time to discover its charms.

What to see and do in Le Mans

You’re walking in the footsteps of the greats – the Romans, the Plantagenets and Robert Doisneau, the famous photographer!

Roman legacy in Le Mans

The presence of the Latin conquerors can be easily spotted at the Roman Wall, a 500m section of it is wonderfully preserved on the River Sarthe side of town. With its distinctive pink mortar and ochre sandstone blocks, this wall once encircled the city of Le Mans, which takes its name from an ancient tribe: Cenomani. Hidden away in some of the medieval houses in the town, there are even more Roman remains. I was lucky enough to get a peek inside one when I visited at the end of September for the fabulous open garden event known as: www.entrecoursetjardins.com. Locals opened their doors to the public to show off their gorgeous courtyard gardens, and in one of them, the lovely French family offered a glimpse of their Roman cellar, complete with a Roman charcoal burner. This is a town that’s full of surprises.

Plantagenet city of Le Mans

Le Mans is known as the Plantagenet City. The Vielle Quartier, the old district within the Roman wall, overlooked by the monumental Cathedral of Saint-Julian was built between the 11th and 15th centuries. More than 100 timber-framed houses survive. The gorgeous good looks make this part of town a bit of a honey pot for film makers looking to recreate scenes of ancient history. The eagle-eyed might spot scenes from Cyrano de Bergerac for instance.

Henry II, the first Plantagenet King of England was born in Le Mans in 1133. He married Eleanor of Aquitaine and spawned a family of Kings including Richard the Lionheart.

The old town of Le Mans

Exploring the old town will once and for all push out of your mind that Le Mans is a one trick pony – or rather race venue. Robert Doisneau knew it when he visited. The famous photographer captured its vintage beauty in an iconic image of an ancient house with a child in front holding a teddy bear. That was in 1962 but little has changed. Go there today and you’ll spot a teddy waving from the window of that house, an homage to the photographer! Successive owners have kept the spirit of Doisneau alive. Each has placed a teddy in the window, making this what has to be one of the best selfie spots in town! Wander the winding, narrow cobble stoned alleys and explore quirky shops and boutiques, wine bars and restaurants. It’s a great way to while away the day.

Culture vulture

There are several museums in Le Mans including a bike museum, arts, history and archaeology. Without a doubt, the most visited by tourists is the fabulous 24 hours Circuit de la Sarthe Museum. You don’t need to be a petrolhead to appreciate its incredible collection of more than 100 exceptional cars. Plus there’s a great portrayal of the history of the renowned race through film, photo and artifacts.

What the locals know and tourists rarely discover

Le Mans is surrounded by glorious countryside. It takes just a few minutes on the excellent tram service to discover some of its secrets. 5 minutes by car or about 15 minutes by tram from the city centre is the Domaine de l’Épau and the Abbaye Royale de l’Épau.

The Domaine is an area of outstanding natural beauty. It covers 600 hectares and hosts two restaurants and a bar, ideal for a taste of the countryside.

Abbaye Royale of L’Epau

Next door is the little known but beautiful Abbey. This monumental building has witnessed drama and centuries of history. It was burned by locals during the 15th century to stop English looters using it as a military base. And,  it was home to Cistercian monks who wrote books here in the freezing rooms, keeping their ink warm in the only heated cell. It was commissioned by Berengaria, wife of Richard the Lionheart AKA the good widow,  and it is where she is laid to rest. There is a wonderful tomb sculpture at the Abbey. When Queen Elizabeth II visited the Abbey some 25 years ago, it’s said she suggested the statue be moved to lie with that of Berengaria’s royal family at the Abbey of Fontevraud.

It hasn’t happened so far and it’s probably fitting. This neglected wife, who likely only spent a matter of weeks with her crusading husband during their entire eight years of marriage, remains where she chose to be.

Don’t miss the café where Sylvie makes cakes using products grown at the abbey or locally. The gardens are undergoing restoration with the aim to grow vegetables popular in medieval times. Stop off for quiche, salad, risotto. The menu changes with the season and Sylvie makes exceedingly fine cakes!

Now a cultural centre, there are some lovely frescoes, interesting exhibitions both inside and out, plus concerts. You can take a tour in English if you book in advance.

Finally…

Look out for the lights! La Nuit des Chimères is a free sound and light show in which major monuments are lit up in a visual feast of colour and acoustics. This city of surprises comes to life after dark. From early January until the end of August the streets en route between monuments also project fantastical light images on streets and walls.

How to get about in Le Mans

The tram system is efficient and cheap 1,50 € single ticket (valid for 1 hour); 4,20 € day pass (valid for 24 hours) – both are also valid on the bus network.

How to get to Le Mans

With trains taking around an hour from Paris It’s an easy day trip to Le Mans

Where to stay in Le Mans

Hotel Concordia which is very reasonably priced.

Le Doyenné: in what has to be one of the best locations right next to the Cathedral in an ancient house.

Tourist office Le Mans, 16 Rue de l’Étoile www.lemans-tourisme.com; more on things to do in France at uk.france.fr

The post What to see and do in Le Mans, France appeared first on The Good Life France.

France offers a vast network of cycle routes across all regions, with some of the best of them in the Pays de la Loire region. With 2,800km of cycle routes, the Pays de la Loire really does offer something for all levels of riders.

In 2018 the Grand Depart of the Tour de France was from Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Pays de la Loire. We look at just how fabulous this region of France is for cyclists of all abilities as we follow in the footsteps of the Tour de France…

Cycling on Noirmoutier-en-l’Île

When the planners were considering how best to get the 176 riders, their teams, the press and TV, plus thousands of spectators on and off the island of Noirmoutier-en-l’Île for the Tour de France, they had two options. Either the Passage du Gois, a natural 4.3km causeway flooded twice a day by up to 4m, where the foolhardy die if they jumble up their tide-times. Or the road bridge. Mmm… you guessed right, they opted for the latter. And I highly recommend it.

If you don’t have a bike with you, hire one in the area. You can get the latest model latest electric bikes from Bike n’ Tour. Perfect for exploring this lovely island.

At 20km end-to-end, therefore manageable in a day, Noirmouitier is a delightful backwater with beaches straight from childhood memory; buckets-and-spades, rock-pools to investigate, golden sand and sun. At my hotel, the utterly lovely Le Général d’Elbée, I compared my achievements with the Tour de France stats. Me: 10km. 4 hours (give or take… I did stop for a beer along the way). Fernando Gaviria, Team Quick Step Floors: 201km. 4h 23′ 32″. Oh well.

Nutrition for tour riders is paramount. They burn around 5,000 calories per stage and must eat and drink constantly to top up. I strolled to Le p’tit Noirmout, hard to find but worth it, with an unassuming front hiding its treasures within. As the restaurant was but an oyster-shell’s throw from the harbour, my choice wasn’t hard to decide upon. Oysters, then Fruits de Mer. And a glass or two of wine.

Cycling at St Jean-de-Monts

My stage 2 was part of the TDF’s stage 1 – Saint-Jean-de-Monts down the coast. It’s holiday-central for French, Brits, Dutch, Germans, you name it. 8 kms of golden beach and a 400m pier. There is also a vast network of cycle paths, known as the Sentiers Cyclables de la Vendée. Something to suit every level of cyclist here.

Or for something a bit different, you could hire Rosalie! A seven -seater orange quadricycle, with a stripey awning and smiley face on the front.

Highly recommended is a stop off at Thalasso Valdys for a Pause Cocoon which involves some ‘Zen Modeling’ (a body massage) with seaweed kelp cream; Hydromassage bath with seaweed jelly finishing off with ‘marine rain’ (a seawater shower).

Cycling in Les Sables-d’Olonne

Les Sables-d’Olonne is the world capital of yacht racing and situated on the “Côte de Lumière” which covers 105 km² of the Atlantic coastline. Beach holiday heaven awaits in this lovely coastal town. Plenty of restaurants and bars, lots of activities and loads to do make this a family favourite.

The waterfront route includes paths through forests, beaches, marshes and wild coastline and is an easy ride.

Lunch at the restaurant of the Côte Ouest Hotel Thalasso & Spa is a revelation. Tables decked with each and every type of seafood imaginable; lobster; spider crabs, crabs, oysters, clams, mussels, cockles, bigorneau (sounds better than winkles, doesn’t it), langoustine, prawns, shrimps, I’ve probably left some out. The small mountains of discarded shells and carapaces were cleared as fast as they piled up until even I reached a point when I had to admit I’d had enough. It was ‘epic’.

Cycling in La Baule

La Baule is where savvy Parisians escape the unbearable heat and tourist-hassle of the capital in August. The epicentre is Hotèl L’Hermitage, old-money, solid 5-star traditional luxury, it’s been attracting the rich since 1926. Churchill, the Agha Khan, Aristotle Onassis, and Maurice Chevalier have all stayed. The 9 km beach is big enough to land the world’s largest passenger airliner, the Airbus A380, on with bags of room left for beach volleyball, and stripy changing huts. It might sink into the soft sand though.

Early each day only horse riders and pisteurs are about. Pisteurs? We’re not in the Alps. Correct, but this beach is pisted each day not by a Ratrack, but a tractor dragging a harrow. Result? Perfect corduroy sand good enough to ski on if it was snow, and if it was halfway up a mountain.

Up the north coast is an uber-exclusive enclave of villas, each with its high wall, entry-phone access only, cool pines, and private, very private sea front access. These are the holiday homes of the privileged, government ministers, financiers, and the famous.

The riders would have taken in none of this as they sped past at 40 kmph. But I recommend you take your time to discover this gorgeous part of France on two wheels…

Michael Cranmer was the guest of Pays de la Loire tourist board www.paysdelaloire.co.uk and the Vendée tourist board www.vendee-tourism.co.uk

Find more fabulous places to visit in France at AtoutFrance

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The vast and varied region of Pays de la Loire (Atlantic Loire Valley) is a fabulous holiday destination when you have the kids in tow, from its crazy cultural attractions to endless cycling and watersports. It’s home to zoos, interactive museums, giant mechanical creatures to ride, a world-famous race track and France’s second most-visited amusement park after Disneyland Paris.

A sloth at Nantes’ mechanical menagerie

Aimed at kids aged 9 to 90, the Machines de l’Île is an extraordinary cultural hub that combines the imaginary worlds of Jules Verne with the mechanical universe of Leonardo da Vinci. In addition to the giant elephant, robotic spider and extraordinary carousel of ride-on sea creatures, a 120-kilo sloth has taken up residence, suspended from a branch, whose head, eyelids, tail and paws can be set in motion by visitors.

Eco-conscious attractions

Want to teach the kids about going green? On the coast in Saint-Nazaire, there’s a new wind power museum. ‘EOL Centre Éolien’ offers 45-minute, educational and interactive visits focused on the history and development of wind turbines and caters adeptly for English speakers. www.leportdetouslesvoyages.com/en

Terra Botanica in Angers is the world’s only theme park dedicated to plants. Here you can learn six centuries of plant history and understand how they hold the keys to our future. A world of exploration and discovery, it’s bolstered by a superb adventure playground and a programme of entertainment. www.terrabotanica.fr/en/

Not far from Angers in Doué-la-Fontaine, the Bioparc is a troglodyte (cave) zoo for endangered species, where over 1,200 animals have found a haven of peace. Work your way around the mineral and vegetable labyrinth and watch the animals from observation bubbles. www.bioparc-zoo.fr/en/

The great outdoors

One of the region’s best assets is its near-3,000km network of cycle trails, which include sections of the major Vélo Francette (from Normandy), Vélodyssée (down the Atlantic coast) and Loire à Vélo (along the River Loire). The latter wends its way past some major châteaux – Saumur, Brissac, Angers and Nantes, as well as abbey-turned-cultural centre Fontevraud – so it can be educational as well as physical for children. Why not combine it with a fun vintage bike festival in Saumur? Anjou Vélo Vintage takes place each summer. www.cycling-loire.com / www.anjou-velo-vintage.com/en

Electric leisure boats are all the rage  on the River Sarthe, 86km of which is navigable. Book a day or half-day out with Aventure Nautique which has boats for 7-10 people, departing from La Suze-sur-Sarthe. www.aventurenautique.fr

For watersports with a bit more adrenaline, head to the coastal resorts of St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie or St-Jean-de-Monts and try a class in sailing, sea canoeing, stand-up paddling or sand-yachting.

In the driving seat

Family of petrolheads? Head to the 24 Hours museum in Le Mans, fully interactive and great for kids.

Showtime at Puy du Fou

Puy du Fou is the second most-visited amusement park in France after Disneyland Paris – but in place of rides, it offers spectacular theatrical shows re-enacting periods of history, from the Vikings to the Belle Époque.‘Le Premier Royaume’, which takes visitors back to the 5th century and follows Clovis, king of the Franks, against the backdrop of Attila’s rampaging followers and a declining Roman Empire. The park’s special-effect night show ‘Cinéscénie’ is continuing its seasonal performances, and there are five on-site hotels plus numerous restaurants, where staff serve you in full costume.

Find out more about things to do in France at: uk.france.fr

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The Pays de la Loire is one of the best kept camping secrets of France. Long a favourite with the French it’s only really started to be discovered by savvy holiday makers relatively recently.

Nestling in the south west corner of France along the Atlantic coast, it’s a place of vineyards, sensational seaside resorts, historic cities and fabulous markets.

Some of the main attractions of Pays de la Loire

With some of the longest sandy beaches in Europe, if you love being at the seaside you’ll be totally spoiled for choice here. Saint-Jean-de-Monts and La Baule are well-known but if you want to get off the beaten track and discover some less touristy but equally gorgeous seaside spots, try Pont-Mahé, Mesquer and Quimiac.

Where there’s sea – there’s salt. Take a visit to the salt pans of the Guérande to discover the traditional way of extracting salt from seawater. The pure Fleur de Sel produced here is used by top chefs around the world and is much loved by the French.

Nantes is a quirky city that embraces art in a unique way. It’s former industrial sites, estuary, and port are now home to year-round art installations and cultural festivals. You’ll also find the Machines de L’ile here. It’s a project inspired by Jules Verne and Leonardo da Vinci where giant spiders and elephants wander for instance. It’s an awesome visit.

Everyone knows Le Mans for its famous 24-hour race through the city. But, there’s more to this town than motoring. The old city is a little jewel, with cobbled streets with half-timbered houses, a near perfect medieval town with a remarkable third-century Roman wall. And, a fabulous Sunday morning market.

Angers is the perfect little city to dine out at terraced cafes. Visit an incredible chateau, taste Cointreau in its home environment (it’s not made anywhere else) and discover a historic town with half timbered houses and a laid back vibe.

There’s plenty to do in this almost ice cream cornet shaped department.

Where to go camping in Pays de la Loire

Island Camping Noimoutier

Go island hopping and head to Noimoutier to discover a rather secret part of France It looks Mediterranean with its pretty houses with their whitewashed walls, blue shutters and red terracotta roofs. With 25 miles of beaches, you can go to a different beach every day.

Camping at the seaside Saint-Jean-de-Monts

Saint-Jean-de-Monts offers loads for holiday makers. 8km of beautiful beaches bordered by a forest of pine trees for relaxing in the shade – and a lovely town.

Camping in the heart of the Loire Valley

If you’re looking to go inland a bit for your camping holiday then take a look at the area around Angers and Saumur, in the heart of the Loire Valley, it has everything you want from a holiday.

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The department of Mayenne is in the Pays de la Loire and its capital is Laval. It’s the sort of town where you immediately feel you can relax and chill out, a little bit sleepy, a lot friendly. There are excellent restaurants serving fabulous local produce, one of the best markets in France, chateaux galore and incredible art museums.

Mayenne takes a pinch of influence from its neighbours the Loire Valley, Normandy and Brittany and then it adds a little je ne sais quoi of its own. For instance, it has its own microclimate which means its warmer than Normandy. Like the Loire Valley, it’s lush and green, has fabulous vineyards and loads of Chateaux. And like Brittany, the local produce is delicious.

Laval city of Art and History

Laval is in the centre of Mayenne. It’s the sort of small city where you can walk everywhere quite easily. It’s a designated “town of art and history” and very pretty. There’s plenty to see and do in the town as well as round and about.

The fabulous Laval Market

On market days (Tuesday and Saturday), the queue for fresh cooked bread at La Maison Du Pain in Place de la Trémoille where the market is based, just keeps growing. The locals know that it’s worth the wait. Great steaming vats of paella, roasted chickens and huge bowls of buttery new potatoes stop you in your tracks. Jet black shiny mussels are bagged up by vendors at a rate of knots, shaded from the sun under blue and white striped awning, the salty scent of the sea fills the air. Plump Oysters from Cancale are fast emptied from baskets on stalls as savvy locals buy weekend delicacies fresh from the sea.

Locals will tell you, go to L’Escargotiere for all things snail. Don’t miss the artisan made cider stall where you’ll also find the most delicious beer jam to drizzle over a slither of Camembert on a thin slice of baguette – it makes for a mouth-watering starter or canapé. Almost every stall has a bowl, jug or jam jar of flowers, it’s makes it feel very festive. At the bread stall, the baker told me that the stall holders are all artisans and very proud of their produce and the flowers reflect their joy and pride in what they do.

At one end of Place de la Trémoille a church looms, bells toll on the hour. Its mellow stone walls a brilliant backdrop for the market. At the other end is the chateau of the Lords of Laval, its bright white exterior glistens in the sunshine. In the side streets are cobbled wiggly roads and half-timbered houses, quirky shops and cosy cafés and bistros.

It’s a memorable market and I think to myself that I’d go back to Laval for that alone… but there’s much more to love here.

Where to eat out in Laval

Locals Love: Les Trois Petits Cochons (11 Rue Échelle Marteau). A not expensive restaurant with a good menu, great atmosphere, and it gets extra points for having a piano which anyone is welcome to play.

Wine and dine: l’Esprit Cuisine (8 rue Mazagran: lespritcuisine.fr). Refined dining but not formal with great French cooking which has an international twist.

Chill out: Le Vin’yle (which means vinyl as in record disc). The small bar has a lovely vintage vibe with a good selection of local beers and wines (5 Rue Solférino).

What to see and do in Laval

Museum of Naïve Art and Singular Arts

The naïve painter Henri Rousseau was born in Laval and you can see some of his works in the Chateau de Laval alongside many of the world’s leading artists in this field. Naive art may not be to everybody’s taste, but there’s a lot about it to make you smile, think, discuss with whoever you’re with – just what were these artists thinking? This is one of the largest collections in France and absolutely fabulous.

Boat ride: Take a cruise on the River Mayenne and enjoy the scenery from a pedalo, electric boat or motor boat.

If you want to go on a longer journey and spend several days on the water visiting the many beautiful riverside towns, you can hire boats from Anjou Navigation. The simple pleasure of floating along this gentle river, taking in the sights, stopping off to shop for local products in pretty towns en route or to enjoy the charms of a riverside café, is second to none.

Bike Ride: Follow the Velo Francette through spectacular countryside on a designated cycle route in Mayenne. Of course you can go much further, it runs for 630km in total. It stretches from Ouistreham in Brittany to La Rochelle, taking in iconic landmarks from the D-day landing beaches, through the Loire Valley, through vineyards and along the most beautiful country lanes.

Jardin de la Perine on top of the hill of Laval gives a fantastic view over the city and castle, a great place for a selfie says local Michel Talvard. On the edge of this pretty park is the former home of Alain Gerbauot, the first man to cross the Atlantic alone, and there’s a small museum in his honour. French parterre style rose gardens soothe the soul and the English garden style woods offer a charming place to rest.

Enjoy wandering the streets of the town: It’s not a big place, you can easily walk everywhere here. A great place to admire the views is across the river to the Quai Gambetta, at night, the lights twinkle and reflections sparkle. Roam the streets around Place de la Trémoille where the market takes place, and you’ll find dinky creperies, art shops, fromageries and boutiques in the winding, hilly lanes. Don’t forget to buy some of the local cheeses while you’re here – the famous Port-Salut is made at Entrammes, just outside Laval. Other Mayenne-made cheese include: Chamois d’or, Chaussée aux Moines, Vieux Pané, Saint Paulin, Rouy, Babybel, Bons Mayennais and Président.

Lactopole: the world’s biggest dairy museum

Yes, it may sound a tad unusual, but, Mayenne with its glorious countryside, is a leading dairy production area and, if you drink milk, butter and cheese you may well find Laval’s Lactopole Dairy museum a fascinating visit, I certainly did.

Did you know that the average cow produces around 9000 litres of milk a year? Or that the rind of Camembert is good for digestion? Or that yoghurt as we know it, was introduced to France by Russian immigrants in the early 20th century and that in those days you had to buy it at a pharmacy because it was considered medicinal? This is a big museum with around 4000 artifacts – from milk churns to cheese lids. And, did you know that collecting cheese lids in France is a thing, like some people collect thimbles. Cheese lid collectors are called tyrosémiophiles.

There are displays of milk bottles and butter pats, and explanations galore about French cheeses and their origins – there’s even a bibliotheque de fromage (cheese library). The displays are in French, but you can book a tour with an English guide or ask for an English language booklet.

Around and about

Close to Laval, visit the weird and wonderful Robert Tatin Museum
An hour by car is lovely La Fleche, a colourful buzzing little town on the banks of the Loir River, with a zoo, great water sports and fabulous Sunday morning market
The wine route of Le Loir (that’s right, no e) with its authentic caves and not well-known but delicious wines.
The Chateau de Lude, still lived in, this immense castle is a fascinating glimpse into the past.

Useful websites:

Laval tourism: www.laval-tourisme.com/en; loads of useful information about France: Atout France

Get to Laval by train from Paris Montparnasse in a little over an hour. It makes for a great day trip or weekend break as well as a longer holiday.

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Robert Tatin was an extraordinary French artist whose home in the lush department of Mayenne, Pays de la Loire in north west France, became a museum. You may never have heard of him but once you see his house and art, you’re unlikely to forget it.

Robert Tatin

Robert Tatin was born in 1902 in Laval, capital of Mayenne. He was a construction worker for most of his early working life but in his spare time he studied art. He lived for a while in Brazil and travelled around South America. At the age of 43 he decided to follow his dream and moved to Paris to open an artist’s workshop. By now he had gained international recognition. He returned at the age of 60 to Mayenne and bought an old, small house on the outskirts of Laval. Here his artistic passions were fully unleashed.

Tatin decided the house needed a wood store and it was this that launched him on an astonishing creative journey. He built a shed next to the house and let his imagination run wild, influenced by his time in South America. When the building was finished he thought it was too beautiful just to store wood, so he built another shed for storage. Once again, he let his creative spirit take over and once again, he felt the shed was too special just to hold wood. He built another, and another until eventually he ran out of space.

The Robert Tatin Museum

Tatin wanted to build bigger and bolder and more imaginative rooms but the lack of space was holding him back. He was told that if he declared his home and creations a museum he would have more privileges. He applied for museum status and seven years later the house and buildings were approved, and Tatin used the additional rooms he built to exhibit his paintings and sculptures. He carried on building until he died in 1983.

You can take a bus from the centre of Laval, for the short journey to the museum. If you fancy a gentle cycle ride, rent a bike in Laval and take the route along an abandoned railway track from the town right to the entrance.

From the road, nothing looks unusual about this place but after entering via the ticket office you’ll emerge onto a walk way of giants. Enormous stone statues representing artists, historic figures and allegories are astonishing for their size and their looks. You’ll see Pablo Picasso and Toulouse L’Autrec side by side with Joan of Arc and Jules Verne amonst others.

At the end of the walkway is Tatin’s house, now a museum and it is extraordinary, unique, quirky and fascinating. The first sight of it made me think of a Mayan temple – in Mayenne! It is in total contrast to the lush green bucolic countryside – weird, whacky and wonderful.

His legacy is a truly extraordinary and eccentric building. The large garden lends itself to viewing the house and its artistic extensions from all angles.

An unconventional artwork

The rooms of the house are filled with his minutely detailed, symbolic artworks. Discover wild, dramatic and magnificent paintings that are complex and fanciful. Incredible and monumental sculptures, larger than life and brilliantly bizarre designs that make you smile. This unique museum is certainly unusual and mesmerising.

Tatin is buried in the front garden of his beloved home. His house is exactly as it was when he died, even down to toothbrush and toothpaste, and slithers of soap in the bathroom. Every room bears the mark of his artistic genius – and it makes for a fabulous visit.

Useful Information

www.laval-tourisme-uk.com; www.paysdelaloire.co.uk

Read about another extraordinary museum – the palace created by a French postman collecting pebbles on his post round!

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Saumur is a tranquil sort of town with a friendly ambience. It’s a great place for those who love culture, history, beautiful architecture, wine and great French cuisine. And, let’s face it, it doesn’t get much more tempting than that does it?!

History of Saumur

5000 years ago there were settlers here and just 2km from Saumur you’ll find the biggest funeral chamber in Europe, left behind by those early inhabitants. A huge dolmen is bizarrely, I think, located in the garden of a pub that is privately owned and currently for sale. If you’re interested in owning a property which dates back to probably about the time that ancient of Egyptian pyramids were being built – have a look at the Dolman de Bagneux!

The Romans were in the area but it’s thought they were probably not in Saumur though there are remains in nearby Tours and Angers.

The Plantagenets bought good times to the town in the 12th century. They built a bridge over the Loire which helped it prosper. Then Saumur, went to sleep for a few hundred years and not much happened. Until, that is, the religious wars began in France in the 16th century. Protestants from France and around the world found refuge and safety in Saumur. They bought with them prosperity and new ideas. They set up a university and changed the face of this tranquil place.

Urbanisation of Saumur came with Age of Enlightenment (mid 17^th century). With it came an attempt to eradicate the bad old ways including sadly, the destruction of medieval buildings. They were considered dark, damp, small and unsanitary. The movement took place all over France and though today we are horrified by the destruction, then it was seen as a wonderful opportunity to improve living conditions and create a better place. New buildings went up, made with light coloured stone, wide avenues and airy squares were constructed. Luckily, laziness prevailed enough to keep some of those wonderful old buildings.

Saumur Town

Saumur today is a flowery town. It feels prosperous and unhurried. Those cream coloured buildings have mellowed and contrast beautifully with their pale shutters.

It’s a great place for wandering. You’ll discover the remains of the ancient walls of the city, and plenty of surprises. Head to the Belvedere Hotel and push a button on a gate to enter a pretty courtyard, walk down “the streets of hell” and into Place st Pierre, lined with beautiful buildings some of which go back to the 15^th century. Here you will find plenty of cafés and places to while away the hours while you enjoy the local wine and produce, like the friendly Bistrot de Place where the tables spill out onto the pedestrianised square on a sunny day.

Saumur is home to the third most important military school in France – it’s huge and takes up 20% of the entire town’s footprint. There’s also an important equestrian school, the Ecole Nationale d’Equitation which puts on a famous annual event.

The Musée des Blindés has a great collection of battle tanks from the First World War to present day.

There’s a huge chapel in the town (now a school) which became a pilgrimage site of major importance and spawned a rosary making industry in Saumur, in fact they still make them here.

Rumour has it that a certain Mick Jagger loves to visit Saumur, he’s been known to watch the local cricket club – and even to have a little bat himself!

Saumur Chateau – teeming with turrets

Don’t miss Saumur Chateau built in the 12^th century. You can see it from miles around on its elevated position looking over the town and the River Loire. Under Louis XIV it became a prison and later a military barracks. All that chopping and changing took it’s toll on the castles famous good looks. However, it has been partially restored after architect Jean Drapeau found a picture by chance in a chapel in Paris showing it as a fairy-tale looking castle in 1410. The painting was once in the collection of the Duc de Berry and shows the castle with golden finials on beautiful pointy turrets. Drapeau restored the towers and gold details of this quite enormous building.

You won’t find much furniture inside, there’s a small collection but go for the view over the town and the river – it is stunning. In July and August there are free shows in the gardens (details on the Saumur Tourist Office website, below).

What to see and do near Saumur

Abbey Fontevraud – a few kilometres from Saumur, you’ll find the biggest abbey in Europe
Chateau de Brissac, the tallest castle in France and the poshest B&B ever!
Chateau du Rivau – the prettiest fairy-tale gardens you’ll ever see

Practical information:

Discover loads more things to do in the Loire at www.valdeloire-france.com; www.ot-saumur.fr; www.coeur-val-de-loire.com

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