Hyères in the Cote d’Azur, southern France has it all – sun, sea, sand, stunning architecture, superb restaurants, delicious local wines and the chance to go island hopping says local Aaron James.

A sunny ‘Belle Epoque’ town of the French Riviera, this beautiful coastal hub boasts 2,400 years of history and is home to remarkable natural heritage such as the National Park of Port-Cros and the Ile d’Or Archipelago.

History lovers will adore the intricate medieval quarter and ancient Greek archaeological site. There are perfect conditions for water sports and remarkable wildlife for those who love the outdoors. And if you want to relax by the sea, you’re totally spoilt for choice with numerous coves and glorious soft sand beaches spread along the Presqu’île de Giens and its islands.

Few foreign tourists choose to holiday in Hyères, opting instead for the town’s glitzy neighbour St Tropez. While this won’t mean that hotels and restaurants are empty (it’s a favourite with the French), it certainly means that the area possesses a more authentic, ‘unspoilt’ feeling.

Here’s what to see and do in Hyères and it’s islands…

A little bit of history

As the oldest resort on the French Riviera, it is hardly surprising that the town is steeped in history. You can’t help but marvel at the remains of the Hellenic city of Olbia, established in 4BC, or at the ancient Greek archaeological site near Almanarre beach. Meanwhile, just up the road, there was a Romans settlement at Pomponiana.

Pass through the Porte de la Rade, erected in the late twelfth century, and you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped back in time as you stroll the town’s medieval winding streets and ogle the centuries old houses. Don’t miss the Tour de Blaise as you check out the delicious delicatessens and lively fishmongers, artisan shops and booksellers en route. Also known as the Tour des Templiers, this tower is the last vestige of a larger chapel constructed by the Knights Templar some eight hundred years ago. Nowadays, it serves as a cultural space and hosts many theatrical shows.

Although in ruins, the castle which overlooks Hyères has not lost its majesty. Gazing across the Provençal countryside, and out towards the peninsula, it’s easy to imagine how it looked in the 16^th century.

Hyères has long attracted artists and writers, including Victor Hugo and R.L. Stevenson, and the 100-year-old this year Villa Noailles, now open to the public, was a magnet for the avant-garde artists of the early 20^th century from Jean Cocteau to Pablo Picasso.

Gastronomy

Being by the sea means that seafood favourites like moules frîtes and bouillabaisse are popular on menus and there are many great restaurants in and around the old town and the Port d’Hyères. Afternoons whiled away here, with a glass of perfectly chilled wine in the sun, is true Riviera living.

 There are lively weekly markets at both Hyères and on the Giens Peninsula where you can find the very best of Provence’s fruit and vegetables, cheeses and plenty of baked goods too.

The Presqu’île

The Presqu’île – a much more romantic way to say peninsula – stretches its reach into the deep blue Mediterranean and is home to several seaside resorts and wild flamingos.

To the west, marvel at kite surfers floating their colourful kites along the 4km long Plage d’Almanarre. And, on especially clear days, you can see the harbours at Toulon and Carqueiranne. The saltmarshes, with their famous flamingos, provide the perfect paths for exhilarating bike rides under pure blue skies. On the eastern side, the unspoilt Badine beach offers the perfect conditions for both thrilling water sports and relaxed sunbathing as well as yoga on the beach.

The island of Porquerolles

At the tip of the Presqu’íle is Tour Fondue, a small port named after its 16th century fort. From here ferries leave daily to the islands off the coast of Hyères. The most famous of them is Porquerolles – often compared to the Caribbean due to its relaxed atmosphere and clear blue waters. Since cars aren’t allowed here, the best way to see the island is by bike – you’ll find plenty of bike hire companies along the harbour.

Although there are restaurants, bars and a hotel on the island, the Plage de Notre Dame is best enjoyed with a hearty picnic of fresh baguette, sundried tomatoes and the cheese you bought from the morning market – and a glass of local rosé.

Get there: Flights operate from Gatwick to Toulon (20 minutes by car), from June to September.

Stay at: Domaine de la Mer, offers hotel rooms, apartments, villas and cottages on the edge of the beach, a little corner of Paradise: domainedelamer.com

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Flea markets and antiquing are a way of life in France. And they’re not just about finding hidden treasures – it’s also a way to absorb the culture and traditions of France. Provence has a full agenda of flea markets all year round. But, when it comes to the best places for antiquing in Provence, there is one place that simply mustn’t be missed – the year-round capital of antiques in the south of France – L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.

In 1966, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a little town of immense charm that sits alongside several branches of the Sorgue River, held its first antiques fair. It was such a success that they decided to do it again. And again. Nearly 60 years later, the town is renowned for its antique shops, flea markets, and annual fairs. In fact, it is the second biggest antiques centre in France, and the third largest in Europe.

Not just one but 6 antique ‘villages’

More than 300 antique dealers are gathered year-round in 6 ‘villages’ dedicated to antique shops. You’ll discover everything from furniture – including industrial and venerable antiques, to lamps, paintings, and rugs. Find vintage handbags, lace dresses and haute-couture. Browse through piles of vintage, linen, old comics and ancient books. Find unique sculptural busts, antique tools, large jardinières and urns. There’s even contemporary art. The villages d’antiquaires (antique villages) of l’Isle-sur-la-Sorge are the place to go for lovers of antiques, art and preloved treasures.

An awesome weekly antiques market

With its waterside cafés and restaurants, and little bridges criss-crossing the canals dotted with ancient mossy wooden waterwheels which once powered the local industries of weaving and paper making – L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is full of charm. The town is nicknamed the” Venice of Provence” for its watery arteries and beauty. It’s not just antiques shops that make this one of the top places in France for finding treasure.

Every Sunday between 8 am and 6 pm (except Jan 1 and December 25), the Avenue des 4 Otages is transformed into a vast open-air antiques market. And – the icing on the cake, a traditional street market is held on Sundays too. Shop for fabulous food – olives, cheeses, charcuterie, and quintessential Provencal produce on one side of the river. And browse for antiques on the other side of the river! Take time to relax at a gorgeous café. Stroll the historic streets and along the canals. Enjoy a glass of local wine, and even pop into one of the many museums. There’s no better way to spend a Sunday, though it can be really busy in July and August – you’re likely to be able to browse easier outside those peak visitor months.

Annual antiques fairs

If you are in any doubt that l’sle-sur-la-Sorgue takes antiques seriously – the town also boasts two huge international antiques fairs each year. They are held over the easter weekend and in mid-August. Hundreds of sellers set up stall in the streets and thousands of people from around the world flock to the famous fairs to browse, bargain and buy.

More antiquing destinations in Provence

If you’re a real fan of antiques and flea markets – then Provence has more to please you. Head to Villeneuve-lez-Avignon, across the river from the papal city of Avignon. At the bottom of this beautiful village, each Saturday a brocante, a flea market, is held in Place Charles David from 7 am to 1.30 pm – great for the bargain hunters and for finding a unique souvenir.

And in historic Carpentras, les puces brocante (flea market) is held every Sunday from 9 am to 6 pm in Allées Jean Jaurès.

Find details of more antiques and flea markets in Provence at provenceguide.co.uk/events/antiques

Find loads of great information on what to see and do in Provence at provenceguide.co.uk

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

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If you don’t fancy driving when you visit Provence – then head to Avignon in the heart of Vaucluse. In Avignon, it’s super easy to get around on foot, and it’s also easy to explore the surrounding countryside and gorgeous little towns and villages of Provence by train, bus and bike.

Avignon will definitely keep you occupied with its colossal Palace of the Popes, pretty public gardens, cobbled winding streets lined with welcoming cafés and delicious restaurants. You could also dance on the Pont d’Avignon, take a boat ride and meander in the museums.  Everywhere is easy to reach on foot, plus there’s a tram and bus service. We wouldn’t blame you if you didn’t go anywhere else.

But you’d be missing out if you didn’t go a little further afield. And if you don’t have a car – don’t worry, it’s not necessary.

Car free Provence

The main TGV station in Avignon is on the outskirts of the city and connects to the central station Avignon Centre by a 5-minute train journey.

From Avignon Centre you can hop on a train to a whole host of lovely places. Or you can take a bus, hire a bike, take a boat ride – and see a whole lot more of Provence.

Need a car in Provence? No – you really don’t!

Captivating Carpentras

From Avignon Centre train station, take the TER 9 bis regional train to Carpentras, at the foot of the majestic mountain of Mont Ventoux (30 minutes). For an extra adventure hire a bike in Avignon from Provence Bike or South Spirit Bike and hop on the train with your bike. Or better, rent in Carpentras at Veloc’Sud.

This small city has a rather exotic feel, almost Roman with a jumble of terracotta roofs atop the higgledy-piggledy houses. The Romans were in fact here, and though there are few remains, traces of the city’s ancient history are everywhere you look.

In 1313 Pope Clement V took up residence in Carpentras. His successor moved the Papal Court to Avignon before it was re-established decades later in Rome. Carpentras was the capital of what’s known as Comtat-Venaissin, territory which belonged at one time to the Counts of Provence, at another time to the Catholic Church, and didn’t become French until 1791, after the French Revolution

History and markets

One of the legacies of the French Popes in Carpentras is the Synagogue, created in 1367. The Jewish community, expelled from France, was welcomed into Papal territory. The synagogue is one of the oldest still active synagogues in Europe.

Carpentras’ Friday morning market is one of the best in France. Some 350 stalls snake their way along a warren of streets and plane tree shaded squares. You’ll find everything from clothes to baskets, shoes to cakes, fruit, veg, truffles, olives marinated a dozen different ways, pungent herbs, tangy cheese, aromatic lavender and mouth-watering street food.

And if you’re there on a Sunday morning, enjoy the flea market under the plane trees in the centre of town. Around 180 stalls set up at the Parking des Platanes.

Carpentras is famous for its berlingot bonbons, hard, translucent, striped, multi-flavoured, multi-coloured boiled sweets in a tetrahedron shape. You can watch these delicious little treats being made at the Confiserie du Mont Ventoux.

2-wheeled fun – Carpentras

By bike, head out on the Via Venaissia, a path dedicated to cyclists, to explore the Dentelles de Montmirail (Beaumes-de-Venise, Lafare, Suzette, Le Barroux…) See: www.provence-cycling.co.uk
Or follow the route of the Carpentras Canal and discover the lovely countryside. Or even take the Comtat Plain route to see the bucolic landscape, fields of asparagus, strawberries and vineyards. The tourist office has lots of details for local cycle routes or check the Provence-cycling website at the bottom of this post.

Orange

From Avignon take a 20-minute train ride to Orange then walk 1km to the city centre (or take a bus from outside the station) to discover the extraordinary Roman theatre, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Once the theatre hosted 10,000 Romans, incredibly its famous wall still stands, one of the best preserved in the world. Close by is a majestic triumphal arch, and don’t miss the Museum of Art and History, which houses mosaics, cadastral maps, ancient remains and artefacts. The town itself is enchanting, bijou boutiques, bars and brasseries will tempt you to linger.

2-wheeled fun in Orange

From Orange, hire a bicycle with Orange Bike. From the town, you can follow the same Via Venaissia cycling path (linking Orange to Carpentras and eventually to the Luberon and the Mediterranean) towards the vineyards of the Côtes du Rhône, or the Viarhona – up or down the Rhône river, or ride to Châteauneuf-du-Pape (don’t forget to rent panniers to bring back a couple of bottles of wine!). Get a detailed map and description from the Tourist office in Orange.

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

It’s around 30 minutes by train from Avignon to l’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and the train station is in the town so it’s a short walk to anywhere. This former fishing village has a laid-back charm, with water wheels along its canals, pretty houses and fabulous shops. Its fame is worldwide due to the many, many antique shops and annual antique fairs. This town is the number one antique centre of southern France, and third in Europe.

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, the source of the water that feeds the canals and river in l’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, is close by and well worth a detour. Take Zou line 21 (8 July to 31 August) or rent a bike (7.5 km).

2-wheeled fun – Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

If you took a bike with you (or hire one in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue for instance with Kvelo), it’s a gentle ride of about 7.5km to the Fontaine de Vaucluse.

Or go further afield on the 27km Sorgues River cycling route. (Details below).

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Provence is famous for its superb wines and Châteauneuf-du-Pape is where some of the finest wines in the world are produced.

Wine is part of the culture of Provence, and in Châteauneuf-du-Pape life revolves around the wine. The hilltop town rises like a ship amongst a sea of grapevines, topped by the ruins of a castle built by those 14^th century popes to be their summer holiday home. It was the popes who first planted the vines here. And they chose well. The terroir, that French word that’s so hard to translate which refers to the conditions the vines grow in, makes for the most superb wines to this day. There’s plenty of opportunity to taste them in the town with a cellar or shop every few metres. Stroll the historic street, climb the hill to the ruined castle from which you have spectacular views and walk the marked circuit from the village through the vineyards.

As you might expect, it’s not easy to plonk a train station and tracks down in the middle of vineyards, so take a tour from Avignon with an excursion company such as A la Française (ask at Avignon tourist office for details of tour companies), or you can train to Sorgues from  Avignon Centre (6 minute train ride) and cycle from the train station up to the village (approximately 30 minutes).

Villeneuve-les-Avignon

Across the river Rhône which skirts Avignon, Villeneuve-sur-Avignon is truly beautiful – a place that most visitors to Avignon never discover. The garden of the Abbey Saint André, perched on a hill, has a tranquil ambiance with wonderful views. The 17^th/18^th century abbey, a national Heritage Site, is where 6th century Saint Casarie once lived, she chose the hilltop above the abbey as a place of prayer and meditation. It’s an easy journey on line 5 of the Orizo network, taking just 11 minutes. Or you can hire a bicycle from Provence Bike or South Spirit Bike and enjoy a 5-10 minute lovely ride across the Rhône river. On the way back, explore La Barthelasse river island between the two towns, along quiet shady roads between orchards and agricultural fields.

Or see the village from a boat. The Grands Bateaux de Provence enable you to discover the most beautiful sights of Avignon and Villeneuve-les-Avignon from the Rhone river; or push the boat out on a discovery cruise that includes lunch or dinner.

Detours

Want to explore further? From Avignon you can take a 1-hour (or less) train journey to many southern French must-sees, including Nîmes, Montpellier, Marseille and Arles, or a bus to the centre of Aix-en-Provence.

Detailed itinerary for car free Provence

 It’s very easy to discover Provence without a car, you’ll find a fabulous several day itinerary to visit Vaucluse and its prettiest villages here: provence guide.co.uk/routes

Useful information

Note: you can take bikes on TER trains (but not TGV unless its packed in a box).

Cycling routes in Vaucluse: provenceguide.co.uk/choose-your-activities

Find heaps of information for what to see and do in Vaucluse here: provenceguide.co.uk

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There are times when we all feel as though we need an adventure, to make the most of beautiful weather, to feel the wind in our hair and escape our daily routines. However, real life has the habit of catching up with us all, so that is when Grand Avignon’s Micro-Adventures are our saving grace – adventures are within our grasp, or rather – within walking distance!

What is a micro-adventure?

A micro-adventure is the opportunity for those of us with some, or even minimal, outdoor experience to escape into nature. These short, affordable adventures can take place in any season, and involve zero-carbon transport. Thanks to micro-adventures, we can all fit a real adventure into our ongoing schedules.

Grand Avignon’s Office de Tourisme is brimming with ideas for micro-adventures across the region. Located between Mont Ventoux, the Alpilles, Luberon and Camargue, the city of Avignon is “the base camp of Provence.” From Avignon, you easily spend a couple of days in the wilds of the beautiful Grand Avignon countryside.

Micro adventure in Provence

Grand Avignon’s range of micro-adventures range in difficulty from peaceful hikes and bike rides where you can soak up the stunning scenery, to mountainous climbs much like your very own Tour de France! Each micro-adventure includes a toolbox of guides and maps to help you along your journey. The kit includes a GPS file with a map of your chosen route and destination, and GPS app recommendations. They also provide transport details and bike rental guides, as well as suggestions for restaurants and accommodation. Depending on your chosen micro-adventure, an experienced guide may join you.

So, what micro-adventures does Grand Avignon have in mind? So far, they have designed 7 unique excursions to show you the real and authentic Grand Avignon countryside, and they have plans to extend the list! Here is a selection for you to … Read on to find your perfect micro-adventure:

From one river to the other: hiking and canoeing down the Ouvèze

Hike through the mountains of Vaucluse and peacefully glide back to Avignon by canoe. Nestled deep in the Grand Avignon countryside are picturesque villages where you can stop for delicious meals. The village Bédarrides, your stopover for the night, is famous for being criss-crossed by seven rivers. It’s the perfect spot for fishermen and walkers to the serene scenery.

The next day, after a walk to the Ouvèze river, collect your canoes or kayaks and slip down the river for an unhurried half-day journey back to Avignon. As the river joins the wider Rhône, the waters may get a bit more choppy, so be prepared and there’s the possibility of a bit of white water rafting!

The Pont du Gard by bike: a cycling adventure for families

Whoever said micro-adventures are not family-friendly haven’t come across this delightful bike excursion to the UNESCO world heritage site. Pont du Gard is an incredible ancient Roman bridge dating from the 1^st century. 49m tall, consisting of up to 50,000 tonnes of stone, the Pont du Gard has withstood centuries of all weathers. At the end of your journey, it towers before you, a magnificent sight.

The round-trip covers almost 80km and is considered to be of moderate difficulty. Once on the greenway, away from vehicles and amidst the flowers of Gard, the cycle trail is perfect for children to have a go on their bikes. The first night is spent in wooden huts at a campsite near Remoulins, then onwards to the bridge. To close the loop on your return to Avignon, the stops include vineyards and villages. Children of all ages can be rest assured that there are ice cream stores along the way. Grand Avignon Office de Tourisme recommends bike hires along with options for children including pull-along carts.

The route to take you to the stars: star-gazing and cycling to Luberon

An epic journey for the expert cyclists – climb the twisting paths of the mountains of Vaucluse with a total elevation of 1,100m. First you reach the stunningly peaceful Rocher du Cire viewpoint of the surrounding gorges. Then the route continues upwards, but the reward is breath-taking – a clear night sky devoid of any light pollution, perfect for star gazing.

At L’Observatoire Sirene, based in the diverse Luberon regional natural park, your micro-adventure takes you to the stars as you spend the evening discovering the galaxy. You will be guided through the different constellations that are visible to the naked eye, then you can explore the night sky in more detail by using the observatory’s instruments.

Campsites and bed and breakfast recommendations are a short bike-ride away. Cycle back to Avignon the next day alongside a former railway track and admire the villages and fields of flowers along the route.

Sleep among the birds: cycle in the Camargue to spot migrating cranes

Take a sojourn through the Camargue, the marshy coastal region just south of Arles. This cycling adventure offers two options – one for experienced cyclists, eager to traverse a near-160km distance, and another for those simply enjoying a moment of escapism with their families. Bring your binoculars as this excursion is for the bird-watchers out there. The Camargue is populated by flocks of thousands of cranes who migrate to the south in the winter. Witness them at roost and in flight as you cycle along the greenway. Grand Avignon’s Office de Tourisme suggests great bike hire options, including carts for children, and also provides excellent bird-watching resources.

This is a great out-of-season adventure for winter, perfect for watching the migration of cranes and to enjoy the deserted bike trails. Check the website for restaurants and accommodation during the winter months.

Flawless Vaucluse: a 3-day mountain hike and descent into the Campredon dry canyon

Another out-of-season opportunity to immerse yourself in the Grand Avignon countryside is to climb the mountains of Vaucluse. This trip is best enjoyed in the spring or autumn to avoid rain and fire risks. A micro-adventure for the hardiest out there as this takes you to an elevation of 1,350m. Not only that, but there is a heart-stopping abseil down into the canyons.

Traverse through the mountains and deep valleys and stop in the picturesque villages La Roque-sur-Pernes and Le Beaucet perched on the cliff edges. On day 2, it is time to descend the canyons. Accompanied by experienced instructors, you are provided with all the necessary equipment for a safe descent. An adventure best avoided if you are scared of heights – one descent reaches 25m! End the adrenaline-pumping trip with a peaceful visit to Le Sanctuaire de saint Gens.

Plan your micro-adventure

The Grand Avignon tourist office is based in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, just across the river from the city of Avignon. Find all the information on the Grand Avignon’s Office de Tourisme’s website and you can email them with any questions, the team are dedicated to specifically helping all new micro-adventurers!

Find loads of great info for what to see and do in Provence at: provenceguide.co.uk

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Chorégies d’Orange – a spectacle you’ll never forget

The Chorégies d’Orange is the oldest French festival, dating back to 1869, and it takes place in an ancient theatre with the most amazing acoustics. The Roman Theatre of Orange is a UNESCO World heritage site, a perfectly preserved legacy of Imperial Rome built in the 1st century AD, with an impressive 37-meter-high stage wall. In this unique setting which can accommodate an audience of up to 9000, the annual open air festival features the greatest performances of the music of Verdi, Puccini, Mozart as well as ballet and modern music.

This unmissable festival is one that you’ll never forget.

When: Takes place throughout June and July
Details and tickets: choregies.fr

Festival of Avignon – monumental and magical

The Avignon Festival in July is one of France’s most popular events and one of the oldest and, founded in 1947, it is one of the most famous theatre festivals in the world. Artists and spectators from around the world converge on this historic city to present a multitude of fantastic shows. Theatre and dance performances taking place throughout the town which, for almost the whole of July, becomes a sort of artistic open-air forum. Ancient churches, historic buildings and beautiful public gardens, as well as the UNESCO-listed Palace of the Popes which can host up to 2000 spectators, act as the stages for these incredible shows.

At the same time this event is held, known as the IN, the OFF also takes place. This is more street-performance style and there are hundreds of performers in the city which really is by now a giant theatre. Colourful posters and banners promoting the shows bring an air of festive fun. OFF performers need to convince their audience to come and see a show and that brings an electrifying and vibrant energy and atmosphere to the streets. Pop to the tourist office to get a discount card for the OFF shows.

When: 5-25 July, 2023
Details and tickets Avignon Festival: festival-avignon.com
Details and tickets Festival Off Avignon: festivaloffavginon.com

Vaison la Romaine dances to the rhythm of summer

This once opulent Roman city is now an enchanting Provencal town in which each summer, the ancient Roman theatre set on a hill, vibrates to a happy rhythm. Big names in the dance world give open-air performances here – and it really is quite magical.

For more than 100 years, the theatre has hosted shows, and with 4000 seats, Vaison Danses which takes place each July, is an irresistible event for dance fans. This year on the stage will be dancers from around the world with classical and modern performances.

When: 13-26 July, 2023
Details and tickets: vaison-danses.com

Vaucluse has a year-round agenda of events which you can find on the tourist office website: provenceguide.co.uk/events 

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Famous for its lavender fields and swathes of poppies, vineyards and sunflowers, fragrant herb-filled shrub land and fruit orchards – Provence is a rainbow-coloured floral paradise. From the elegant to the grand and the wildly beautiful – these 5 gardens you can visit in Vaucluse are seriously gorgeous…

Jardin Remarkable – Val de Joanis

In the shadow of a stunning chateau on the wine producing estate of Val de Joannis, the classified gardens (Jardins Remarquable) are a dreamy snapshot of Provencal style gardening.

West of Pertuis, Val Joanis is set in an area of 400 hectares. There are 100 vineyards and at the heart of the gardens is a castle, whose foundations date to the 16th century. The garden is set on a promontory surrounded by beautiful trees, some of which are over a century old. With a preserved vegetable and fruit garden, the air is sweetly perfumed. And the gardens, inspired by bastide style gardens popular in the 17^th century, feature tall cypress trees and lavender – quintessential representatives of Provencal’s natural beauty.

There’s also a wine shop where you can enjoy a tasting of the award-winning rosé, red and white wines produced here.
Best visited between April and November.

Jardin de la Basse Fontaine

In the pretty village of Puyméras, a few miles from the lovely town of Vaison-la-Romaine and facing the majestic mountain of Mont Ventoux, lie the gardens of Basse Fontaine. Classified Jardin Remarquable, the gardens cover more than 6000 sq metres. This botanical paradise contains more than 1500 plant species in ten gardens. They include a vineyard, olive grove, vegetable garden and Japanese style garden. Plus there’s a picnic area and play area for kids, as well as bird aviaries and a turtle park! There’s also a museum of 1000 ancient tools. This is a beautiful place to spend a few hours and a garden that the whole family will love.
Open from May to September.

Harmas of Jean-Henri Fabre

In Sérignan du Comtat, a short detour from the Roman town of Orange, you will find the wildly beautiful gardens of scientist Jean-Henri Fabre who lived here for almost 40 years. He was fascinated by the life of insects and many of his writings on the topic became famous and were translated into several languages.

The gardens are really an open-air museum for all plant species in this part of the Mediterranean. These are the plants which Fabre (1823-1915) studied. There are also insect collections which he gathered with fervour. They are showcased in the house alongside fossils and a collection of watercolours, books and many other fascinating nature artefacts. For the bicentenary anniversary of his birth, Fabre’s house, owned by the National Museum of Natural History, has been renovated with previously closed to the public rooms will reopen to the public in summer 2023.
Open year-round.

The Rose Garden of Gérenton

At the rose nursery of Gérenton, a stone’s throw from the enchanting village of Bedoin at the foot of Mont Ventoux is an unusual and stunningly beautiful rose garden. More than 300 varieties of ancient roses are showcased here. They are planted to allow visitors to see how the roses look when they are growing rather than just in pots. With a superb show of flowers from May through to September, the organic range of roses are adapted to a Mediterranean climate and developed to be sustainable and robust. The gardens offer a riot of colours and intoxicating scent.

See the website for opening times: roses-anciennes-du-ventoux.com/

The Pope’s Garden, Avignon

In the shadow of the monumental, UNESCO-listed Palace of the Popes in Avignon at the heart of Vaucluse, visit the newly replanted gardens of Pope Urbain V. The former 14^th century orchards were once had direct access from the Pope’s apartments and were an integral part of the palace.

Redeveloped in 2020, they are a tranquil little oasis in the city. The landscaped gardens and benches offering cool shade in the high walls of the Palace during summer months as you listen to the tinkling fountain. The new pontifical gardens are joined to the Jardin du Palais (Jardin Benoit XII),
Open year-round, free to enter.

Discover the gardens, flower markets and botanical outings of Vaucluse: provenceguide.co.uk/gardens

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Vaucluse in Provence is famous not just for its lavender fields, vineyards, picturesque villages and historic towns – it’s also perfect for cycling. Whether you want to pootle along enjoying the glorious scenery or thunder up the side of the majestic Mont Ventoux – there’s a bike and a route to suit everyone.

Cycling in Vaucluse

The Mediterranean climate and tranquil country lanes of Vaucluse are perfect for those who like to cycle gently and enjoy the scenery as you spin past fields of lavender (in high lavender season, late June to early July be aware that the temperature is usually high), vineyards and orchards filled with cherry and apricot trees. From Mont Ventoux to the Luberon passing through the vineyards of the Rhône Valley, from Gigondas to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Vaucluse offers a diverse array of cycling itineraries for all levels of rider and all types of bikes. There’s a whopping 1500km of cycle routes along small, quiet roads and more than 400 professionals (hotels, restaurants and stop-off points) bearing the ‘Cyclists Welcome’ certification. Plus, there are 3 dedicated greenways for cycling and four itinerant routes.

Those who like to push themselves however will find the steep slopes of Mont Ventoux, an icon of the cycling world, ideal for a spot of mountain biking. Since the first road to the top was inaugurated in 1900, the 19009-metre high summit has been a favourite with cyclists who like a challenge. Regularly featured in the Tour de France, the stages of the Ventoux are the stuff of legend. Though if you want that ‘Tour de France’ feeling without the effort, electric mountain bikes are optional!

From cross-country to all-mountain, enduro, raid, mountain biking, family mountain biking, electric bikes (and a network of charging stations) plus gravel bikes – the cycling is great, all year round.

Gravel bikes – on and off-road adventure

Cycling in Vaucluse is always a chance for adventure, thrills and gorgeous scenery but gravel bikes offer a whole new level of fun.

Gravel bikes are adventure road bikes, perfect for on and off-road cycling, ideal for touring and ‘bike-packing.’ They’re the ultimate in flexible riding. Climb up wooded foothills, traverse hills and plains, cross the Ochre valley, follow narrow roads, cycle lanes and signposted cycle routes. On a gravel bike you can go everywhere. And for those who don’t want to enjoy the scenery without too much effort – there are even e-gravel bikes for hire!

In the pretty wine growing village of Rasteau, you’ll find the first French Gravel and bike-packing touring holiday introduction centre. There’s a gravel bike specialist instructor on hand, gravel bikes for hire (including electric), baggage equipment and GPS. There’s also a 1 day to 5-day sports camp option and a group gite with catering, perfect for holidays with friends and to make new friends. Several routes start from the centre to suit all levels and it’s a brilliant way to practice your cycling skills and try gravel biking in a superb environment with support if you need it. You’ll never look back!

A new VTOPO map with gravel bike itineraries across Vaucluse shows 30 routes for all levels: vtopo.fr/carte-gravel-vaucluse

Find out more about cycling and itineraries in Vaucluse: provencecycling.co.uk

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Vaucluse in Provence is a land of sweet scents, lavender fields, olive groves and vineyards. It’s the perfect place to visit and watch the world go by from a terraced café. Visit colourful markets, sip aperitifs under the stars and truly indulge in the famous gastronomy of the region. We look at eleven of the most charming and characterful villages of Vaucluse. But we have to tell you – there are many more, this really is picture-postcard pretty Provence…

Gordes

Gordes (top photo) has been nicknamed “the most beautiful of France’s most beautiful villages. It’s easy to see why – it is the iconic Provencal village. Reached via a landscape of olive, almond, and fig trees, dry stone walls, and pretty Provencal farmhouses Gordes is like a dream of Provence come true.

The hilltop village, nicknamed the floating village, has cobbled streets and a majestic 16^th century castle. The gorgeous old stone houses light up at sunset to create a few truly magical moments.

Lourmarin

Seen from the outside, the 1000-year-old village of Lourmarin at the foot of the curved and untamed hillsides of the Luberon, seems like a rather sleepy place. But in reality it is bursting with life, even on Sundays! It’s brimming with pretty boutiques, art galleries, bistros, and restaurants with terraces that spill into the narrow cobbled streets and plane-tree shaded squares of the village. Typically Provence and incredibly pretty.

Saignon

This village of 1000 inhabitants is unusually situated between two rocks. One bears the church and the other bears the remains of the castle. From its lofty perch you can see for miles. Its winding little streets and squares are lined with enchanting old houses, ancient fountains, cafés and boutiques.

Le Crestet

A few kilometres south of Vaison-la-Romaine, Le Crestet is a well-kept secret. It’s a quaint and incredibly pretty little village with a tiny square and 12^th century church. Its sloping cobbled streets lead to a partially restored 11^th century castle. Discover the charms of this pedestrianised village which is home to steep calades (paved streets), vaulted passageways, stone archways and beautiful restored Renaissance dwellings.

Roussillon

The small village is famous for its 17 ranges of ochre daubed across the facades of buildings and for the flamboyant technicolour trail that is often compared to Colorado. In Roussillon, every shade of, red, yellow, orange and pink merge as you wander the spiralling streets.

Roussillon’s ochre quarry was once a significant production centre and over the years the surrounding fields have turned a reddish orange. Today, the disused quarry is other-worldly. Sculpted by both man and nature there are cliffs and caverns, steeples and ridges. Ochre is a powerful natural colourant, often used in cosmetics. In the past, it was used to stain the rubber seals for glass jars and the skin of Strasbourg sausages. The village is charming, filled with artisan shops, bustling little bistros, and excellent restaurants.

Brantes

This tiny eyrie with just 50 inhabitants, on the steep north side of Mont Ventoux is like the land that time forgot. A favourite with artists and artisans, wildflowers border the paved streets of this medieval village, whose streets are joined by winding staircases. Twisted almond trees, junipers, Aleppo pine trees and broom shrubs hang over its terraces. The surrounding shrubland is filled with aromatic herbs. It’s a bit of a secret place and a totally captivating little town.

Ménerbes

Magnificent Ménerbes, an agricultural and wine growing village, was in the past famous for its stone quarries. The village is full of superb stone buildings in its cobbled lanes, including the citadel, private mansions, fortified gates, and a little castle, where the painter Nicolas de Staël lived. Many artists have been attracted to its beauty including Picasso and Dora Maar, and this is where British writer Peter Mayle spent ‘a year in Provence’. There is a beautiful wine estate you can visit which hosts a corkscrew museum and botanical garden with marvellous views over Mont ventoux and the Luberon hills. This is also where the first local truffle was cultivated.

Venasque

Venasque, Perched high on a steep ridge, a stone’s throw from the historic town of Carpentras, has given its name to the registered trademark, “Cerises des Monts de Venasque”, which are produced here, at the foot of the village and give the village the nickname the capital of cherries.

In the past, Venasque was named le Pays des Loups, (the Land of wolves). Legend has it that this is due to the bad reputation of the inhabitants! It’s hill top location gives a feeling that you’re on a ship. There are spectacular views over Mont Ventoux and the surrounding countryside. Along the narrow streets and between two fountains, have fun deciphering the dates engraved above the gates. The oldest, opposite the post office, is from 1644. There’s also a 6^th century baptistery which is said to be one of the ancient in Europe.

Ansouis

South of Cucuron, perched Ansouis is home to a 1000-year-old castle. If Ansouis looks familiar, it may be because this was one of the filming locations for the film Jean de Florette. The village is beautifully preserved, perfect for wandering. The houses are arranged in a semi-circular pattern on the slope of a small hill. This helps to shelter them from the torments of the Mistral wind. You can visit the castle of Ansouis which was until recently in the ownership of the same family for six centuries!

Séguret

Séguret with its cobbled streets which must be discovered on foot. The medieval village with its ruined feudal castle is a paradise for artists and photographers. With its cobble stone narrow streets and ancient houses, there’s plenty to make you fall in love – from the views to the 15^th century Mascarons fountain. At Christmas it is famous for its superb displays of Santons, little statues of saints, and for hosting a living nativity scene.

Le Barroux

Le Barroux is located halfway between Carpentras and Vaison-la-Romaine, not far from the lavender fields of Sault. The village is dominated by a part medieval, part Renaissance castle which was once a stronghold of the Lords of Baux. You can visit the castle, from where there are wonderful views over orchards of olive and pink apricot trees. Reach the castle via a maze of narrow streets lined with pretty houses, as you listen to the soothing sound of water from the village fountains. The castle also houses a whisky distillery and you can take a guided tour and discover how they use local einkorn spelt to make the delicious whisky.

Find out more about the charms, secrets and beauty of Vaucluse at provenceguide.com

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Is it the gorgeous and colourful historic buildings? Or the many museums and galleries, the fabulous markets, the Cours Mirabeau with its fountains, the pretty squares and plane tree-lined avenues? Maybe it’s the 300 days of sunshine? Or perhaps the  700 restaurants in an always bustling but not busy city surrounded by glorious countryside and vineyards? Aix (pronounced ‘X’) is a bit like a mini-Paris where the sun always shines. Our guide to Aix-en-Provence reveals its many charms…

What to do and see in Aix-en-Provence

You’d be forgiven for thinking that in Aix all roads lead to the Cours Mirabeau and that life revolves around the hustle and bustle of this wide boulevard – it does. Once a toll road and a place for aristocrats and the rich to see and be seen, it now splits the inner city in two. The old town is on one side and the ‘newer’ 17^th century Mazarin district on the other. There are restaurants, bars, galleries and shops galore. And on summer nights and Saturday mornings, market stalls are set up and the Cours teems with shoppers. It’s also home to a mossy fountain named unsurprisingly, Fontaine Mossue. Fed by thermal springs (the Romans built baths in Aix) and on cold days steam swirls above its stone bowl.

Sitting at a café with a glass of local rosé, enjoying a three hour dinner and watching the world go by on the Cours is one of life’s great pleasures. Paul Cezanne, Edith Piaf, Pablo Picasso, Jean Paul Sartre and many more have done just this. But don’t sit there too long, there’s a lot to see in Aix.

The old district

You’ll find a warren of cobbled streets, elegant squares and magnificent ancient buildings in the old district. There’s a lively daily market in Place Richelme. Shaded by ancient plane trees, lined with cafés whose chairs and tables spill into the square, and stalls peddling local produce such as lavender, bread, cheese, mountains of the freshest vegetables, great tubs of sunflowers and curtains of garlic – it’s glorious.

In neighbouring Place de l’Hotel de Ville you’ll find a Saturday morning flower market. It’s watched over by a 15^th century astronomical clock featuring characters representing the four seasons. Locals say one year Autumn lasted 4 months when someone forgot to turn the key!

In a city that is nicknamed ‘town of 1000 fountains’, elegant Place d’Albertas stands out for its truly beautiful baroque buildings and central fountain. You can walk your socks off in Aix and never be bored.

The Mazarin District

The Mazarin District is named after the Archbishop of Aix, Michel Mazarin, brother of Cardinal Mazarin, chief minister to Louis XIV. He commissioned the extension of the city’s boundaries in the 1600s. The buildings from this time are luxurious and majestic. Elsewhere there are traces of older buildings where you can spot ancient carvings above doors, religious statues on corners and the Maltese cross carved in walls.

Cezanne in Aix

Aix’s most famous son is Paul Cezanne. Every morning at dawn, he would walk from his city apartment up the hill to his studio to paint. When he died in 1906, the studio was preserved and is now open to the public. The objects we see in his paintings are still there. They include the three skulls which are real, though no one knows who they are – anonymously immortalized. The statue of a cherub, the bottles and vases he loved to group together. His brushes and paints, his smock coat and hat. His Godin fire. You really do get the feeling the artist has popped out to wander in his gorgeous garden or to look at his beloved Mont Saint-Victoire, the subject of so many of his paintings. (atelier-cezanne.com)

You can find out more about Cezanne at the Caumont Art Centre. It’s a corker of a museum in an 18^th century mansion a stone’s throw from the Cours in the Mazarin District. Here they show a 20-minute film about the life of Cezanne. It’s surprisingly grown up and doesn’t sugar coat his story (neither modest nor particularly likeable by all accounts). The museum has a super exhibition of sculptures and paintings including by several great names such as Monet, Van Gogh, Degas and many more outstanding artists and stunningly preserved rooms.

Don’t miss the ground floor café (you don’t need a ticket to enter). It is gorgeous with glorious salons which feel as though nothing has changed in the last 300 years. There’s also a beautiful shady garden. This is one of the best kept secrets of the locals who love to pop in for a coffee, glass of wine, lunch or fabulous cake.

Arty Aix

Two notable museums in the Mazarin District are Musée Granet which has a superb collection of artworks including ten Cezanne paintings, and it’s second part – Granet XXe in a former 17^th century chapel

Fondation Vasarely exhibits the optical illusion art of Hungarian-French artist Victor Vasarely. He chose Aix to showcase his art due to his admiration for Cezanne. Vasarely’s work is big, bold and incredible.

Eat out in Aix

Feast on oysters fresh from the coast in Marseille, just 30 km awa. Nibble on lavender infused goats cheese. Enjoy delicious salads flavoured with local olive oil and tapenade. And sigh over sweet almond Calisons, a local speciality legend claims were invented for Queen Jeanne, the wife of Good King René in 1457, said to be the shape of her eyes!

The king of calisson makers in Aix is the Le Roy René. They’ve been making them for more than 100 years. Their calisson gift boxes feature La Rotonde, a landmark fountain in Aix. You can visit their fabulous museum and confectionary where they make calissons in every flavour from natural – almond and melon to lavender, chocolate and pistachio.

The Fromagerie du Passage tucked away down a secret passage at No. 55 Cours Mirabeau. Head to the terrace bar for a cool breeze on a hot night. With a perfectly chilled glass of something delicious to wash down your plancha of tasty Corsican meats and some of the best cheeses you’ll ever try – delicious.

Chateau la Coste

And for a countryside treat, head to Chateau la Coste a dreamy vineyard with a hotel and 5 restaurants about 20 minutes’ drive from the city. It has three art galleries and an ever growing collection of art dotted around the vineyards including a monumental meditation bell created by Paul Matisse, son of Henri Matisse.

Book a tour: Aix has so many secret places and so much to discover. Book a tour at the tourist office by La Rotonde fountain. aixenprovencetourisme.com

How to get there: Trains from Paris take just 3 hours. The station is around 25 minutes’ drive from the city. You can take a bus for a few euros or taxi (expect to pay around 50 Euros).

Where to stay: Hotel Nègre Coste overlooking the Cours Mirabeau. It’s in the centre of the action but perfectly tranquil with comfy rooms, a spa, friendly staff and a lovely restaurant downstairs.

The post Guide to Aix-en-Provence appeared first on The Good Life France.

Uncover the beauty of Provence with Jeremy Flint’s photo guide to the best places to see lavender in the region.

Nestled in a picturesque corner of the South of France that borders Italy and the Mediterranean sea, Provence is a truly delightful place. It has long attracted visitors with its warm sunny climate, great gastronomy and scenic lavender fields. The lavender fields have become an icon of the area. They are now a tourist attraction in their own right drawing visitors from all corners of the globe. Every June and July, the region becomes ablaze with fragrant lavender fields. There are swathes of purple carpet the fields as far as the eye can see. The captivating beauty of the lavender fields makes Provence a photographer’s paradise and a popular region to visit during the summer.

In this rural, idyllic region of diverse landscapes and stunning hilltop villages, the lavender fields take centre stage. Lavender has been an important crop for the people of Provence for centuries. Much of the lavender is distilled for essential oil and fragrant water. The plants are also dried and added to scented objects such as soap, perfume, honey, tea, ice cream, scented packages and natural cosmetics.

Photo guide to lavender in Provence

There are many wonderful locations to visit in the region. This photo guide highlights the best places to see and capture the lavender in Provence – plus its most impressive sights.

The Plateau of Valensole

Situated in the heart of Provence, the plateau of Valensole has picture-postcard views of lavender fields at every turn providing some of the most beautiful landscapes in Haute Provence. It is simply the stuff of dreams and an area that has captured the imagination of artists and photographers for years. Situated at an altitude of 500 metres in the south of the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence between the Luberon and the gorgeous Gorge du Verdon, Valensole is dedicated to the cultivation of lavender.  Rich in luxuriant lavender fields, their sight and smell is truly enchanting and worth exploring.

The road from Valensole to Manosque provides some of the best photo viewing spots as many lines of lavender come into view. There are some wonderful scenes to shoot and the lavender farms of Lavandes Anglevin and Terraroma are great to visit too.

Another great spot for capturing the blossoming lavender is along the road heading north-east from Valensole where an old stone building can be found. The structure looks great surrounded by the flowing lavender and mountains. Follow the road all the way to Puimoisson where during summer you will find even more lavender fields. The flowers in full bloom can be a magical spectacle and are incredible to witness, especially as the sun casts its rays on the scene and the play of light transforms the sea of purple.

The Luberon Massif

Besides Valensole, you will find a variety of other attractive lavender fields in Provence.

The Luberon Massif is named after a mountain range that runs east-west between Cavaillon and Manosque. This Provencal patchwork is home to miles of fragrant lavender fields, hilltop villages, vineyards and ancient abbeys. The spectacular natural park covers some 600 square kilometres. And it’s here where the best lavender fields can be viewed from Avignon towards Gordes.

Near Gordes the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Senanque offers an iconic lavender scene. Built in the 12^th century, the Abbey is a sublime example of the region’s architecture set in a stunning woodland valley. The graceful Cistercian Abbey makes a magnificent backdrop to the lines of lavender grown and harvest by the resident monks. Aim to arrive early or late in the day to avoid the crowds of tourists. Combine your visit with a wonderful trip inside the abbey’s cloistered interior whilst marvelling at the incredible lavender that surround its grounds.

Gordes itself makes for a fantastic scene. The spectacular hilltop village juts out of the white-rock face of the Vaucluse plateau. The medieval village is another of Provence’s quintessential sights. Rearing up high on the slopes it has a labyrinth of winding roads and cobblestone paths at its core.

Pays de Sault

Directly north of the Luberon natural park, the Pays de Sault is a great place to see lavender without the crowds and heat of Valensole. Attractive villages and beehive shaped bories (traditional dry-stone structures) blend perfectly with the lavender fields. Nearby the area around Apt and the valley at the foot of Mount Ventoux offer colourful shades of purple.

Verdon Gorge

Beyond the lavender fields, other highlights of the region include the gorgeous gorges and canyons. Few sights match the impressive Gorges du Verdon, also known as the Grand Canyon of Europe with its jaw dropping beauty.  Situated in the Verdon natural park, it is a haven for adventure seekers. There are incredible views of the plunging gorge to the Verdon river snaking 600 metres below. Hikers, bikers and rock climbers seek out the best trails and craggy mountain peaks to summit. Whilst thrill seekers find solace canoeing on the water as birds of prey including vultures circle overhead.

Valensole

The town of Valensole is a great place to visit. Its lively weekly market is packed with stalls selling local specialities including olive oil, honey and lavender. There is also a wonderful old fountain and array of shops, restaurants and cafés in the centre.

Rougon and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie

Don’t miss the spectacular hill-top villages synonymous with the area. The charming hilltop village of Rougon offers charming buildings. It has commanding vistas of the Gorges du Verdon snaking off into the distance. Moustiers-Sainte-Marie Is one of the region’s most beautiful villages. It was founded by monks that dates back to the 5^th century.

Getting there

The lavender fields of Provence are best explored by car as the locations are quite some distance apart. There is a fast TGV train from Paris to Avignon, and airports at Avignon, Nimes and Marseille from where you can hire a car.

Jeremy Flint is an award-winning professional photographer and writer specialising in travel, landscape and location photography. His work is published extensively in National Geographic Traveller Lonely Planet and Country Life amongst others. He is a five-time finalist in Travel Photographer of the Year, Association of Photographers Discovery Award Winner and National Geographic Traveller Grand Prize Winner.

Lavender fields and photography tour

One of the most wonderful ways to see the lavender fields is to take a tour with Your Private Provence. Emily Durand hosts small group tours that take you to the heart of the lavender fields when the blooms are at their most stunning in July. Discover the Provencal lifestyle, gorgeous villages, scrumptious gastronomy and fabulous wines. Plus renowned photographer Raina Stinson will be on hand to show you her top tips for taking the most beautiful photos in the lavender fields. It doesn’t matter if you know nothing about photography, use a mobile phone to take photos or a camera. You’ll definitely go home with memories and souvenirs you’ll never forget as your photos tell stories without words. Find out more and book your spot on this unique and truly special tour: ProvenceLavenderPhotographyTour

Find out more about the lavender fields and Provence at Provenceguide.co.uk

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