CroisiEurope has launched a selection of brand new fly/cruise packages taking in the enchanting world of the Alsace Christmas markets. Visit Strasbourg, AKA the capital of Christmas. Tour postcard-pretty villages where centuries-old traditions come alive amidst the picturesque Rhine and Alsace canals. And experience the magic of Christmas market cruises of Alsace – at a price that is seriously tempting and includes flights from the UK to Strasbourg or Basel.

Strasbourg Christmas markets & fairy tale pretty villages of Alsace cruises

Four-day: Christmas Markets in Alsace cruise round trip from Strasbourg. Visit the famous Strasbourg Christmas markets and illuminations, the famous Alsatian Wine Route and its picturesque villages. You’ll also get to tour the beautifully decorated streets of captivating Colmar.

Departures between 29th November and 20th December 2023 with fly from UK/cruise prices from £749 per person.

Four-day: A Bountiful Christmas in Alsace & The Black Forest cruise. A round trip from Strasbourg that takes in the famous Strasbourg markets and illuminations and the Christmas Market in Freiburg – one of the most beautiful in Germany. You’ll visit the Eco Museum of Alsace to learn how Alsatians celebrated Christmas in the past. And you’ll visit the beautifully-decorated streets of Colmar.

Departures between 4th and 17th December 2023 with fly from UK/cruise prices from £895 per person.

Four-day: Alsatian Christmas Traditions & Navigation Through the Heart of Strasbourg. Starting and ending in Strasbourg the trip includes excursions to delicious Alsatian Christmas bakeries, you can almost smell the aroma of spicy gingerbread just thinking about it! You’ll visit Christmas Markets in Eguisheim, voted favourite village of the French for its stunning pickled-in-the-past beauty. And you’ll visit the lovely village of Obernai and Christmassy Strasbourg. Plus you’ll be taken to the secret wine cellars in the Hospices de Strasbourg – the oldest wine store in France!

Departures on 7th and 11th December 2023 with fly from UK/cruise prices from £959 per person.

Four-day: Christmas in Alsace and take in as Show at the Royal Palace. This roundtrip cruise from Strasbourg includes the famous Strasbourg markets and illuminations. You’ll take a tour of the traditional Potter Villages in Soufflenheim and Betschdorf – perfect for unique Christmas gifts. And this cruise also includes an incredible musical performance at the famous Royal Palace Music Hall in Kirrwiller.

Departures between 2nd and 20th December 2023 with fly from UK/cruise prices from £795 per person.

Four-day: Alsatian Christmas Traditions & Navigation Through the Heart of Strasbourg. This hotel barge cruise round trip from Strasbourg follows the Alsatian Wine Route and visits the festive Alsatian capital and surrounding villages. Highlights include excursions to delicious Alsatian Christmas bakeries. It also includes the Christmas Markets in the lovely billages of Eguisheim and Obernai as well as Strasbourg. You’ll also visit the secret wine cellars in the Hospices de Strasbourg.

Departures on 7th, 11th and 15th December 2023 on the 22-guest MS Madeleine with fly from UK/cruise prices from £755 per person.

All prices include return flights from London Gatwick to either Strasbourg or Basel. Also included are private overseas transfers. The cruises include all meals, some excursions, port fees and repatriation insurance. You can find all the Christmas market, Christmas and New Year cruises here: croisieurope.co.uk/christmascruises

For reservations and further information call CroisiEurope on 01756 691269 or visit www.croisieurope.co.uk

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France is brimming with romantic villages and castles and with medieval gems that have somehow managed to withstand the passing of time. Janine Marsh joined a barge cruise from Sens in Burgundy to the heart of Paris and visited some of the most amazing and romantic sites of France en route…

Sens, Burgundy

I have to be honest, I didn’t know much (ok nothing) about Sens in Burgundy, but this was my starting point for a CroisiEurope cruise to Paris on a beautiful barge called the MS Deborah. Sens is incredibly just an hour from Paris by train, but oh so different from the capital. It’s a sleepy sort of place on the edge of the Yonne River, an important waterway since the middle ages when boats carried Burgundy wines and wood from the forests to Paris as the Yonne flows into the Seine.

Sens isn’t a big tourist attraction, but it is a pretty little town and is known in France for two things. First, its ancient cathedral which is even older than Notre-Dame in Paris, begun in 1130 AD. And second, it was from here that the warrior Brennus, chieftain of the Gallic Senon tribe, departed for Rome – and conquered it around 390 BC. The Gauls only left after being paid off.

Sens was an important religious centre since the 3rd century, and its Cathedral was the first to feature vaulting in its design and is considered to be the very first of the great Gothic Cathedrals in France. Opposite the Cathedral is a lovely covered market, and there is a museum next to the Cathedral which has an eclectic collection including the hat Napoleon Bonaparte wore at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. Apparently it was damaged by rain so he gave it to his hat makers in Paris to repair, but was exiled to St. Helena before he got it back.

Provins – a medieval wonder

From Sens we cruised to the medieval town of Provins. The boat holds just 22 passengers, and everything is inclusive from food to wine and spirits, plus all excursions. The Yonne is a working river, we pass pleasure ships and cargo barges and watch silos filling bulky holds with a backdrop of pretty villages, vineyards, and lovely houses that sit at the edge of the river. Wild birds swoop overhead and swans glide regally as we float gently and admire the glorious countryside, and sometimes we stop at locks and watch the action from the sun deck sipping the cocktail of the day.

The fabulous food and wine and the relaxed ambiance soothe your soul. By day three you won’t remember what day it I, and you won’t care either, it’s totally relaxing.

We docked at the lovely medieval town of Moret-sur-Loing, a designated “remarkable heritage site” and “Destination Impressionism”, a favourite of painter Alfred Sisley who lived here for 20 years. I was torn between taking a bike from the boat to cycle in the local countryside and discover the Chateau de By, once the home of painter Rosa Bonheur, but I went for a tour of Provins instead. All the guides for trips speak both French and English.

Provins in the department of Ile de France, is one of those places that you think simply can’t exist – but it does. This fortified town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, once under the rule of the powerful Counts of Champagne. Its cobbled, flower-filled streets and medieval buildings cover a huge area and there’s a lot to see from towers and turrets to ramparts, dungeons and underground tunnels. Once a hugely important commercial centre, goods came from around the world to be sold at one of the town’s famous grand fairs which lasted for weeks. There’s also a fabulous rose garden and shop/tea shop where everything comes up roses from sweets to ice cream!

Fontainebleau

Onwards we sail, past a pair of courting black swans and fishermen sitting patiently on pontoons, and yet, we’re only 55kms from Paris. Our next stop is the magnificent Chateau of Fontainebleau. If walls could talk then those at this enormous castle of some 1500 rooms would have plenty to say.

500 years older than Versailles. The original chapel was consecrated by Thomas Becket (whose secretary incidentally lived for several years in Sens), AKA Saint Thomas of Canterbury and Thomas à Becket. This is the only royal and imperial chateau in France that was continuously inhabited for eight centuries. From the 12^th Century, what was a royal hunting lodge in a vast forest was renovated, extended and embellished by various Kings, Queens Emperors and Empresses until it became the extraordinary, enormous castle you see before you.

It’s chock-a-block full of tapestries, frescoes, paintings, and carvings – opulently furnished, truly dazzling. Napoleon Bonaparte lorded it up at this chateau, saying it was his favourite above all others. He commissioned a team of builders and gilders to bling it up and make it more to his taste. And it was from that horseshoe shaped staircase that he bade farewell to his guides before going into exile (and leaving his hat behind).

Here King Francois I of France hung the Mona Lisa over his bathtub, Louis XIV fed the giant carp in the pond and Marie-Antoinette commissioned a gorgeous bed for her pretty boudoir, though she never laid her head there, she lost it in Paris instead. She did though recreate what she loved about this countryside Paris at her hamlet in Versailles.

Barbizon

For a complete contrast we next head to Barbizon, a little village on the edge of the Forest of Fontainebleau. Once a tiny hamlet (it was upgraded to village status in 1903), a colony of artists formed here in the early 1800s. There was then a tiny groceries shop and artists on their way from Paris to Fontainebleau would stop to buy supplies and noted how beautiful the scenery was. They started to linger longer, enraptured by the beauty of the countryside and rural life, and the canny shop owner converted the shop to an inn which became the Hotel Ganne. Then the artists stayed for even longer period.

More and more came, Rousseau, Millet, de Penna. They were the precursor that led to impressionism and Monet and Renoir themselves also visited – but they wanted bigger landscapes – cities and coasts. The artists left Barbizon. They also left their mark. The Hotel Ganne is now a museum, where the furniture and walls are covered with the etches and sketches of the artists who stayed here. Caricatures, saints, fairies, soldiers, whatever inspired them – they left a little of their work and soul behind.

The town is pickled in the past and very lovely. It continues to attract artists and the shops, bars and restaurants look like set pieces from your dream of a French village.

Vaux le Vicomte

Next up is the ravishing castle of Vaux-le-Vicomte, one of the largest privately owned residences in France with gorgeous gardens. Commissioned by Nicolas Fouquet, Louis XIV’s minister of finance it was almost completed in 1661 but Fouquet invited the boss to visit and that was his undoing. It was so beautiful that Louis was enraged with jealousy, and, egged on by other scheming ministers, he had Fouquet thrown into prison, where the unfortunate minister died in 1680. Louis had the furnishings, ornaments and even the curtains and plants put in his own castles and then hired the team who created Vaux-le-Vicomte, to work on Versailles. Moral – never upstage a king.

Paris

From here we cruised to Paris, the riverbank villages giving way to warehouses, apartment blocks, restaurants, and office buildings. The sounds of the city filter through the air coupled with the sounds of music as people tango and cha cha cha on the quaysides, people sit reading books, lazing in the sun and going about the life of a city. Meanwhile on the barge it remains tranquil. We pass under historic bridges and dock between the Statue of Liberty on the little man-made island called Île aux Cygnes, facing its big sister in New York, and the Eiffel Tower.

That night we had a gala dinner as the Eiffel Tower sparkled nearby and we bid farewell to new friends. We were joined by an accordionist and Edith Piaf tribute singer; the haunting notes carried across the water and drew a small crowd on the quayside as the sun set and metros passed over the Bir Hakeim Bridge – it was a perfect snapshot of Paris and the perfect way to end a most fabulous barge cruise in the world’s most popular city. I looked at my fellow bargers as the words “j’ai deux amours” ring out, it’s clear they are as enchanted as I am.

Slow tourism at its best

This is cruising at its slow tourism best. The boat holds just 22 passengers, and everything is inclusive from food to wine and spirits, plus all excursions. The Yonne is a working river, we passed pleasure ships and cargo barges and watched silos filling bulky holds with a backdrop of pretty villages, vineyards, and lovely houses that sit at the edge of the river. Wild birds swoop overhead, and swans glided regally as we floated gently and admired the glorious countryside, and sometimes we stopped at locks and watched the action from the sun deck, sipping the cocktail of the day. And the Seine river is a joy to travel with so much to see on either side as well as a sometimes surprising amount of wild life.

You can book this cruise and find out more about CrosiEurope’s cruises at croisieurope.co.uk

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Annecy is the capital of Haute-Savoie, a department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of south-eastern France, bordering both Switzerland and Italy. To the north is Lake Geneva; to the south and southeast are Mont Blanc and the Aravis mountain range. Known as the “Venice of the Alps,” because of its network of canals, it sits at the head of Lake Annecy whose crystal-clear turquoise waters are surrounded by lush greenery and snow-capped peaks. Hiking in the Annecy mountains is reinvigorating says Rupert Parker…

Nights in the Annecy Mountains

The town’s proximity to the Alpine landscape makes it the ideal gateway for exploring the network of trails leading upwards towards the skies. True mountain lovers never stay in the valleys but climb the slopes and spend the night in one of the many refuges, often perched precariously on remote ridges.

These all offer typical mountain food of the region and fairly basic facilities, but you can be rewarded with spectacular sunsets and sunrises. For my first night, I’m going to be staying at the Pointe Percée – Gramusset Refuge. It takes around an hour to drive up to the Col des Annes, the start of the trail up to the refuge.

When I arrive the mist is down and the rain has set in, so there’s no option but to don waterproofs, put my head down and start climbing. It’s fairly steep but then levels out, and unfortunately visibility is zero. It therefore comes as a pleasant surprise, after a couple of hours, to suddenly find myself climbing the steps to the refuge.

In fact there are two buildings here, the older one the original and now acting as more of a shelter. The other was built recently and all the facilities are completely new. The dormitories upstairs are fairly spacious with bunk beds and there’s a bar with draught beer. I arrive just as the food is being served and most of the other guests are climbers.

After discarding my wet clothes, there’s a welcome spinach soup to warm me up, with chunks of homemade bread. After that comes a large tray of Tartiflette – potatoes, local Reblochon cheese, smoked bacon and cream, all baked in the oven. It’s good hearty mountain food and as I eat, my fellow diners are discussing the climbing options for tomorrow.

Aravis Mountain range

Next morning the mist begins to lift, revealing the cathedral-like summit of Pointe Percée at 2752m, the highest point of the Aravis mountain range. There are also glorious views of the Pic du Jalouvre and the Bargy range. Already the other guests are setting off for their ascent, attired in complete climbing gear, but I’m on my way back down. I can soon see my destination of La Clusaz lying in the valley down below and after a couple of hours I’m there.

After my night on the mountain, I’m going to be staying in a hotel this evening. There’s an authentic Alpine atmosphere here, the streets lined with traditional chalets, bars and restaurants and outdoor shops. Gondolas whisk you up high above the town, great for sampling mountain fare at one of the restaurants.

Balade au Clair de Lune

I’ve timed my visit so I can attend an annual event, the Balade au Clair de Lune, a walk. by the light of the moon. Everybody is encouraged to turn off their lights and use candles instead. And it’s not just inside the bars and restaurant, the streets are also lit in the same way. There are processions of drummers and dancers through the town and live bands play for dancing. Although it’s slightly damp, everyone enters into the spirit, and the place is packed with families enjoying this unique interlude.

Fabulous Faverges

Next day, for another mountain experience, I travel west to Faverges, just at the foot of Lake Annecy, and make my way up the valley of Saint-Ruph. From here it’s a steep climb up through forest to the Chalet de la Servaz at 1434m. On my way I spot wild strawberries in the grass so help myself to a quick woodland snack. I’m in the trees for most of the hike, but when I emerge on the ridge and spy the refuge, I’m rewarded with fantastic views over Lake Annecy.

Chalet de la Servaz is a fairly basic establishment with the dormitory one big space on the upper floor, crammed with mattresses. Christophe, the guardian, makes up for the lack of comfort with his enthusiasm and excellent cooking. There’s just me and three French women and we all dine together.

The memorable meal includes Diots, local 100% pork sausages, cooked in white wine and Crozets, little squares of pasta, in a cheese gratin. After a selection of local cheese, there’s a wonderful dessert of fresh fruit to finish. Then we’re in for a big surprise – outside there’s a hot tube which Christophe has been warming all evening. Everybody jumps in for communal soak, with the twinkling lights of Annecy below.

Annecy

Next morning I make my way back down and head to Lake Annecy for a wonderful lunch at La Cuillère à Omble. Of course they serve fresh fish from the lake and, as well as Trout Rillettes, I get a whole Omble, Arctic Char, to myself. Then it’s a short drive to Annecy itself and I’m staying in the old town (read our guide to Annecy). Even though it’s just the start of summer, the crowds are out in force.

Still that doesn’t detract from its charms. The narrow cobblestone streets, with their pastel-coloured buildings and flower-decked balconies, are lined with designer boutiques, restaurants, cafes, and bakeries. Water is everywhere, with hump backed bridges crossing the winding canals. It’s market day and stalls selling fresh fruit and vegetables display their wares.

I can’t resist taking a dip in the lake so follow the lakeside promenade, past the boats offering cruises and the sailing and rowing clubs to Plage des Marquisats. This effectively acts as the town beach, with a grassy foreshore full of sunbathers. In front of me is the wide expanse of the lake with the Alpine peaks rearing up behind.

As I jump into the water, in the distance I can just about make out the refuge where I spent the night. Of course I’m staying in a pleasant hotel in Annecy, but deep down inside, I can’t help hankering for the peace and quiet of the mountains. Not forgetting the filling wholesome food and that wonderful hot tub.

Useful information

Annecy Mountains website has information about the region.
Pointe Percée – Gramusset Refuge has 49 dormitory beds.
La Ferme is a comfortable hotel with good local mountain specialities in La Clusaz.
Refuge de la Servaz has 19 dormitory beds.
Hotel Auberge du Lyonnais in Annecy is right in the old town and has an excellent restaurant.

Rupert Parker is a writer, photographer, cameraman & TV Producer. His special interests are food & travel & he writes about everything from wilderness adventure to gourmet spa tours. Read about his latest adventures on his website Planet Appetite.

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Summer’s over and it’s la rentrée in France – the time to return to work and school after the long, hot summer holidays and to harvest the grapes for wine. There’s plenty going on this season!

National events in Autumn

Rugby World Cup: 8 September – 28 October 2023

Semaine du Gout – Taste Week: 10-16 October. 2022. Discover the art of gastronomy with cooking classes, tastings, and entertainment. Details: www.legout.com

1st November La Toussaint – All Saints’ Day. All over France, pots of chrysanthemums are placed on graves as loved ones who have passed on are remembered.

11th November Armistice – commemorative services will be held all over France in honour of those who lost their lives in World War I and other wars.

Beaujolais Nouveau: the new season’s wine arrives on the third Thursday of November each year and the festivities start at midnight on Wednesday. Cafés, bars, and restaurants all over France encourage a taste!

Beaune: Wine Auction (Burgundy). 17-19 November 2023. Founded in 1443, the former charitable hospital Hospices de Beaune is now a museum. During its long existence, many donors bequeathed vineyards to the Hospices. In 1859, for the first time, the wines of the new vintage from these holdings were sold at auction. Now the hospices de Beaune wine auction is a major moment of Burgundian pageantry and the focal point for launching the new vintage plus tasting events. Book online at www.beaune-tourism.com

What’s on?

Paris – Le Carousel du Louvre Art Fair, 20-22 October 2023. Shop for art in the heart of Paris and see the extraordinary artworks of artists including Ragnhild Monsen, tapestry maker.

Paris Nuit Blanche is held annually on the first Saturday night in October. Museums, public buildings, monuments, swimming pools, cinemas, parks, universities, and historic sites are open to the public all night – an art and culture party! Details: quefaire.paris.fr/nuitblanche

Paris – Fetes des Vendanges, 11-15 October 2023. This is one you definitely should not miss if you’re in Paris at this time. A celebration of the wine made in the secret vineyard of Paris, with dance, food, fireworks, and a lot of fun. This event has been going since 1934! Read our review of the Fetes des Vendanges here.

Picardy, Amiens: Grand Rederie Amiens – the second largest flea market in France held first Sunday every October. www.grande-rederie-amiens.com

Special offer

Book a 2024 CroisiEurope cruise before 30 September and get 15% off all Europe cruises – use code “EARBOOTRAVEL” at www.croisieurope.co.uk

Exhibitions

Catch the extraordinary Eva Jospin exhibition at the Palace of the Popes. Monumental cardboard installations including a “palazzo” that’s strangely dreamlike, and utterly mesmerising. Until 7 Jan 2024. Working with cardboard, the monumental sculptures are beautiful and astonishing.

Cultival and the Musée de l’Armée – will open a new immersive night-time sound and light experience in the heart of the 17^th century Dôme des Invalides September 22, 2023. Places are limited, tickets at: aura-invalides.com

The Chateau de Chantilly (Oise) Plant Days event brings together nearly 200 nurserymen and exhibitors from all over France and Europe. October 6-8, 2023

America celebrates Halloween – in Moselle they celebrate Rommelbootzennaat – the night of the grinning beets! This traditional festival with Celtic origins which takes place all over the department. Traditionally celebrated on October 31, the eve of All Saints’ Day, it marked the end of the luminous season and the beginning of the dark season. For one night, it was believed, the door between the world of the living and that of the dead was open…

Now celebrated from October 21 to November 5, some people light candles and place them in a hollowed-out beet or pumpkin!

Christmas is coming…

Christmas lights to be switched on in Paris 17 November 2023

We’ll bring you lots more Christmas info in the Winter issue of The Good Life France Magazine (subscribe here for free).

The post What’s on in France Autumn 2023 appeared first on The Good Life France.

The summer sun is lovely, but it’s in mid-winter, when those long dark nights really take their toll, that we need a getaway the most. An escape to Provence in off-season is perfect for enjoying great food, great wine, blue skies, gorgeous villages, historic towns, castles, culture and more. Your Private Provence’s Truffles, Wine and Provencal Cuisine Tour is the ultimate gourmet and cultural retreat we all need come February!

This 8-day excursion is exquisite, so many feel good activities are packed into this winter jaunt. Prepare yourself for gastronomic delights, including an artisanal truffle lunch with truffles freshly picked by your own hands. And moments of pure relaxation such as on a boat ride in the sunny fishing port of the Calanques national park. Visit markets and participate in cooking classes. Indulge in wine and olive oil tastings, all the while soaking up the extraordinary landscape of Provence.

If you feel like your winter is missing some much-needed beauty and adventure, then this fabulous Provence tour will thrill you.

Provencal gastronomy

Let’s start with the heart of the tour… What could be more tempting than sampling one of the most luxurious foods in the world – truffles.

Winter in Provence is the perfect time to indulge in the highly sought-after black truffle – the ‘black diamond of Provence’. France produces more truffles than any other country, and the legendary truffles of Provence make up 80% of the exports. The winter season is time for truffle-harvesting, and on this tour, you’ll join truffle farmer Nicolas who will take you through the orchards with his truffle-loving dog to hunt for fresh black truffles. Wrinkled and gnarly, these French truffles are the finest on the market, and you get to eat them for lunch! Pull up a chair at the farmhouse kitchen for a spread of delicious food, all prepared and flavoured to complement the freshly picked black truffles.

Get ready to learn about the terroir of the region. Truffles aren’t the only gourmet ingredient you will sample as your host Emily arranges wine tastings across the famous wine region of Côtes-du-Rhône AOC. Descend upon the wineries of historic Chateauneuf-du-Pape, gorgeous Gigondas and lovely Vacqueyras to taste the wines of the Rhône, famous for its production of full-bodied red wines. Not just wine tastings, you’ll also enjoy an olive oil workshop and sample the piquant flavours of the south of France.

Cooking classes

This tour isn’t named Provencal Cuisine for nothing as the gastronomy doesn’t end there. In the medieval city you’ll take a stroll with the chef through Les Halles in Avignon – the city’s market. You’ll select the best produce for the day’s lunch and then spend time in his kitchen to make a sumptuous meal. It’s an ideal opportunity to try your hand at making authentic Provencal cuisine.

The figurative and literal cherry on top of the cake is the patisserie workshop in beautiful Aix-en-Provence. Fling on an apron, wield a piping bag and a rolling pin, and create your own delicate French patisserie and croissants!

Stunning villages and a glorious landscape

The names of villages and cities have been thrown around, but let’s take a closer look at where you will visit and stay. First stop is Gordes, a picturesque medieval village perched on a hilltop. Officially one of the most beautiful villages in France, Gordes looks as though it has dropped out of a fairytale with its rambling buildings of creamy stone. At this time of the year, without crowds of tourists, its labyrinthine cobbled streets are begging to be explored and the views of the Luberon countryside are exquisite. For three nights, your home is in a luxury B&B, a 6-minute walk from the village. The incredible variety of landscapes that surround it are magnificent, simply crying out for country walks.

Travel from town to city in Emily’s comfortable Mercedes people carrier. After a stopover in Avignon to cook your Provencal lunch, it’s onwards to Aix-en-Provence. Here you will soak up the incredible history and wonderful sites. Known as ‘The City of a Thousand Fountains’, the Roman city is built on natural springs and its numerous fountains date back over several centuries. Your home from home will be a beautiful boutique hotel in the city’s centre. Perfect for strolls to explore your surroundings.

Cassis is one of the prettiest coastal villages in France. Here you’ll wander the pretty streets lined with boutiques and cafés. Then hop on a boat to explore the magnificent Calanques, soaring limestone cliffs, a haven of nature and outstanding natural beauty.

Without the summer crowds, the beautiful landscape is hauntingly empty and untouched. Winter in Provence is a break-taking sight.

Culture and Art

Art is a crucial part of the history of Aix-en-Provence. 19^th century artist Paul Cézanne had Aix-en-Provence in his blood and was deeply attached to his birthplace’s landscape. His muse was not, as it turns out, a person, in fact it was the mountain of Sainte-Victoire . Over the course of 30 years, the artist produced 44 oil paintings and 43 watercolours of this iconic spot. You’ll visit the mountain and surrounding countryside. You’ll also get to visit the Granet Museum in Aix which houses paintings by Picasso, Monet and Van Gogh, as well as Cezanne. And you’ll visit Cézanne’s own workshop, where he painted during the last years of his life. It’s an atmospheric place. It really feels as if the artist has just popped out to admire the wonderful views from his garden.

Your Private Provence’s Truffles, Wine and Provencal Cuisine Tour is exactly the winter break that will help you start the year in style and with sparkle! Book a spot on this small group tour for February 2024: yourprivateprovence.com/truffles-wine-cuisine

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Nestled in the heart of the French countryside, between Bordeaux and Bergerac, Château Masburel has a long and illustrious history of winemaking. From the moment it was built in 1740, it was destined to be an elegant and comfortable home as well as a working vineyard. The accommodation today is every bit as luxurious as you would expect from such a historic location. It also forms an excellent base from which to explore this fascinating and beautiful part of southwest France.

Accommodation fit for a king

In addition to four sumptuous en-suite bedrooms with vineyard views in the château itself, the newly refurbished Tapestry Gîte combines modern luxury with eighteenth century charm. Built using local stone and with softly painted wooden shutters, the gîte offers peace and tranquility in the historic surroundings of the château’s grounds. It has a sleek and functional stainless steel kitchen, which opens onto a fresh, pretty dining area. Traditional tapestries adorning the walls, which give the gîte its name. Combined with Louis XVI-style furniture in the bedrooms and comfortable leather sofas in the generous sitting room – it’s an elegant stay.

As the estate includes a working vineyard it isn’t suitable for younger children. But with two comfortable double bedrooms and a modern shower room, this is the ideal base for two couples or for a family with teenagers. The setting is idyllic. The gîte has a private patio with an outside dining space overlooking the vineyards and woodlands beyond.

It really is the perfect place to soak up the peace and quiet of the Dordogne countryside. Whether you listen to birdsong over a leisurely breakfast at the beginning of the day, or linger over a last glass of the Château’s delicious wine under the spreading canopy of stars before retiring for the night, from dawn until dusk the peaceful surroundings offer a real chance to relax and unwind.

Wine-tasting tours

While you stay at Château Masburel, you will also have the opportunity to tour the estate. And of course to taste the appellation-controlled wines made on site. Since they bought the estate in 2018, Chris Walker and Irma Lazickiene have breathed new life into it. And, since 2021, their vineyards have been certified organic for the grape harvest. Over 33 hectares of land, the 19 hectares of the vineyards are extensive. Seven varieties of grapes are grown: four red varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec) and three white varieties (Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Muscadelle) for use in wine production on site.

Harvesting here is left deliberately late in the season to really concentrate and deepen the flavour of the resulting wines. In fact, the château has won awards for its AOC Côte de Bergerac red wine. And it is renowned for its rich and complex red and white wines, earning a mention in prestigious publications such as Hachette’s wine guide.

Explore the Dordogne

Tapestry Gîte makes an ideal base for exploring the rolling countryside and historic towns and villages nearby. With historic architectural gems, open gardens, vineyards and even caves dotted across the countryside around Château Masburel, there is no shortage of things to do. The honeyed hues of Bergerac’s medieval buildings are a delight within a city steeped in history. It has a museum of wine, religious cloisters to explore, a heritage centre, castle and museums. If you are looking for activities to work up an appetite for lunch or an evening meal, the picturesque and shallow Dordogne River is a real playground. You’ll find water sports, boat hire and plenty of swimming spots nearby.

When it comes to food, you’re spoiled for choice with numerous restaurants – three with Michelin stars – all within reach. If you prefer to buy food and cook in the gîte, there are local markets almost every day of the week. The nearby town of Sainte-Foy-la-Grande has a charming Saturday morning market. Bergerac boasts food markets on a Wednesday, Friday and Saturday.

Good connections

Bergerac Airport is only half an hour away from Château Masburel. There are direct Ryanair flights from London, Bristol, East Midlands, Liverpool and Bournemouth. The larger airport at Bordeaux is well-served by a number of airlines. By train, the nearest station is Sainte-Foy-La-Grande with connections to Bordeaux and fast trains to Paris. The chateau is approximately six hours drive from the ferry port at Saint-Malo.

Find out more

To find out more about Château Masburel, visit Château-masburel.com 

Book your stay at Tapestry Gite or one of the chateau’s gorgeous B&B rooms here: via.eviivo.com/chateaumasburel

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“Fashions fade, style is eternal” Yves Saint Laurent

At the internationally renowned Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais, northern France, a major exhibition dedicated to the late great French couturier Yves Saint Laurent is eye-poppingly fabulous. Transparences, the name of the exhibition, is an absolute must-see, especially for fashion fans, and a fascinating and unique look at the work of one of the fashion world’s greatest designers.

A little bit of French fashion history

The French have been famous for dressing well for centuries. As long ago as the 17th century – not long after the Mayflower carried pilgrims to North America and Isaac Newton published one of his most important scientific works Philosophiae Naturalis Principia Mathematica (1687) – the French were turning fashion into an industry.

The modern fashion show dates to the Paris in the 1860s, though it was a pioneering Englishman, fashion designer Charles Frederick Worth, who kicked it things off by using live models instead of mannequins to present his creations. 130 years later, on July 12, 1998, the great French designer Yves Saint Laurent created a monumental runway show at the Stade de France ahead of the Football World Cup final between France and Brazil. Lasting 15 minutes, the event involved 300 models, 900 backstage hands and 4,000 stadium staff. It was televised live to about 1.7 billion people.

Yves Saint-Laurent was a showman and fashion visionary whose legacy lives on.

Yves Saint Laurent  – Transparences, Museum of Lace and Fashion, Calais

The Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris has teamed up with the Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais for an exhibition that focuses on transparency – the way Yves Saint Laurent used nude effects in his designs. It will run until 12 November 2023. A second exhibition (which will not be the same as this one), will open in Paris in February 2024.

Seductive, sensuous, and shocking

Born in Algeria in 1936, Yves Henry Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent was destined for fashion. Whilst still at school he won a prestigious international design contest and when a Vogue magazine executive showed Christian Dior some of the schoolboy’s sketches, Dior hired him immediately as his assistant. He was 17 years old.

Dior died in 1957 and Yves Saint-Laurent was named head of the House of Dior at just 21 and exploded onto the fashion scene. In 1962 he opened his own fashion house and became one of the most influential Paris designers. He made trousers and the tuxedo (Le Smoking in France) fashionable for women, created Mondrian-inspired shift dresses and many more looks that defined the fashions of the 1960s until he retired in 2002 and which continue long past his demise. One of his most enduring themes was that of transparency.

Transparent fabrics were prominent in his late 1960’s collections. Sometimes his designs were seen as scandalous and shocking as he pushed couture to new extremes but ultimately influenced fashions of the late 20^th century and into the 21^st century. A flick through images of gowns worn by Hollywood glitterati at big events this year reveals just how much the transparent look is still a big theme.

An astounding collection

The exhibition is astounding – some 60 original outfits (10 of which belong to the Museum), original sketches, collection boards, swatches of material and invoices give an intimate window to the designs. Wonderful photographs of models and clients such as Catherine Deneuve wearing Saint-Laurent, together with anecdotes plus catwalk film footage bring to life the designer’s creations in a way that still shocks at times. But you it’s clear just how incredibly sophisticated the designs were and how the exquisite tailoring that made him the King of fashion for decades. I could easily imagine Lady Gaga or Dua Lipa wearing just about anything and everything in the show. From topless blouses to barely covered bottoms in gorgeous evening gowns using lace and sheer materials.

“Nothing is more beautiful than a naked body,” the late couturier once declared.

Demure – and decadent

“Transparences” presents an incredible window into the world of one of France’s top designers showing how he worked to ‘reveal’ the body of the woman wearing his costume with both elegance – and audacity.

Dresses that look demure from the front, astonish when you see the back, the derriere barely covered by sheer Chantilly lace. Sublimely cut robes with bodice inserts, evening and day wear that pushed the boundaries of design and required a daring customer, though these outfits were impactful, you were unlikely to see many women wearing the more daring costumes out in public. The Nude Dress of 1968, made entirely of transparent chiffon provided ‘modesty’ in the form of ostrich feathers. Even in 2010 when French model/actress Laetita Casta wore a transparent 1968 Saint-Laurent dress – it caused a sensation. Yves Saint Laurent wrote: “A nude woman’s body, that I have to dress without hindering the freedom of her natural movements. In short, my profession is a loving dialogue with this naked woman, using all the magic of my rolls of fabric.”

This is an outstanding exhibition, an astonishing collection and a fascinating window into French haute-couture and fashion history.

Calais Museum of Lace and Fashion

Calais became famous for its lace making in the 19^th Century when English lace makers, famous for their lacemaking, smuggled one of their new-fangled looms into France and set up shop at Saint-Pierre just a stone’s throw from the museum. The Anglo-French collaboration was immensely successful and completely transformed the French lace making industry which had previously been handmade only. Calais lace and tulle became renowned, desired by the rich, famous and royalty, and the lace making industry in Calais employed some 40,000 workers in its heyday.

Calais Lace

Today Calais is still an important centre for the production of lace and is much sought after. Clients of Calais lace include Valentino, Jean Paul Gaultier, Lacroix and Calvin Klein, and the majority of the lace produce is exported to countries around the world to be used in the production of wedding dresses and lingerie.

The museum is located in a 19^th Century lace factory renovated by the architects who designed Jean-Paul Gaultier’s HQ and the Champollion Museum in Figeac. In the vast museum galleries, you can discover the history of lace making. From the handmade lace of the 16^th Century right up to modern times. Gorgeous antique dresses with lace collars, bodices, and petticoats and up to the minute designer haut couture, brocade gowns, velvet frock coats and rolls of exquisite, delicate lace in all colours are on show.

The museum also has a unique collection of nine huge 19^th century industrial looms. Five of them are still working – and making lace to this day.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Exhibition Yves Saint Laurent: Transparences – From June 24th to November 12th, 2023

Cité de la dentelle et de la mode (Museum for Lace and Fashion) 135 quai du Commerce – 62100 Calais (about 10 minutes from Calais car-ferry port – well worth a detour.
Open every day from 10am to 6pm (5pm from 1 November/closed Tuesdays)
On site: restaurant, fabulous shop, and resource centre.
See the Museum website for opening times: cite-dentelle.fr
Find out more about this unique exhibition at: calais-cotedopale.co.uk/yves-saint-laurent
Discover Calais and the Opal Coast: calais-cotedopale.co.uk

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If ever there was a real sleeping beauty castle, then the Chateau d’Ussé is it. A stone’s throw from the river Indre, sitting atop a ridge, this pretty castle is part renaissance, part Gothic – totally fairy tale.

Teeming with towers and turrets of white tufa stone, spanning architectural styles from the 1400s to the 1600s, view it from the bridge across the river and you’ll think you’ve dreamed yourself straight into a Sleeping Beauty scene. So it may come as no surprise to discover that Charles Perrault (1628-1703), the great French writer of fairy tales, used this castle as the setting for his tale la Belle au bois dormant – Sleeping Beauty.

History of the Chateau d’Ussé

There’s been a castle here for more than 1000 years though nothing of that early Viking fortress remains. The castle we see was begun in the 15th century and completed in the late 1600s. It’s in a fabulous location, atop a hill overlooking the countryside, backed by the forest of Chinon and surrounded by parkland.

The castle was bought in 1807 by the Duchess of Duras, a novelist. She managed to keep her head during the French Revolution though her husband lost his. She fell in love with the writer and politician Chateaubriand. Her love was not reciprocated and when he openly took a mistress, the poor Duchess was heartbroken and stopped all the hands on the clocks in the castle saying that she did not wish to be ‘reminded of the hours that passed and marked his not coming to her side…’ Not a sleeping beauty ending for her.

What to see at the Chateau d’Ussé

To this day the castle is lived in, passed through generations of the Duchess of Duras’ family, and the current owner and resident is the Duke de Blacas d’Aulps, grandson of the man who began the Egyptian Department at the Louvre in Paris.

The 17^th century Mansard staircase is stunning and the rooms are beautifully decorated including a ‘royal’ bedroom. Prepared for King Louis XVI it is dominated by a voluptuous 5-poster bed though alas – the King never arrived. There are tapestries, 18th century furnishings, and porcelain on display in several rooms though you don’t get to see most of the rooms as they are of course inhabited by the residents. An interesting chapel in the grounds features the history of the castle.

You also can’t help but fail to notice the mannequins in many of the rooms or poised on the staircase. Strangely lifelike, their costumes are changed each year and they are the passion of the Duchess I’m told. I have to say, they are somewhat spooky though the original costumes dating back centuries are superb!

Fairies in the attic

And head up into the attic for a raft of rooms presenting a sleeping beauty scenario featuring the Wicked Queen, Aurora – the sleeping beauty, her prince and a whole host of fairy tale favourites. The stairs and corridors are narrow at times and it’s definitely not Disney, but kids love it.

From the top of the castle the views over the terraced gardens below are outstanding. Some of the orange trees are more than 100 years old. The gardens were originally designed by the great le Nôtre who also designed the gardens of Versailles.

Allow a couple of hours for this visit including the gardens. There’s a terraced cafe opposite and a cute shop next door full of trinkets, textiles and things that are hard to resist and make great souvenirs!

Chateau d’Ussé website: chateaudusse.fr

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When it comes to our summer holidays, we can all be indecisive. Would we prefer the summer sun at the beach or in the rolling countryside? How about historical sight-seeing and museums for the children? If you’re struggling to choose, you’re in luck because the Charentes – Charente-Maritime and Charente are the French departments that have it all! With more than 90 beaches to choose from, picturesque market towns, forests and fields full of sunflowers, the Charentes are your calming escape.

So, if you’re someone who enjoys variety during your summer holidays, look no further, here are 15 brilliant things to do in Charente-Maritime:

Stay at No. 22 Cognac

First, you need somewhere comfortable to return to after days of exploring, and nothing could fit that description better than No. 22 Cognac. Hidden amidst fields of rippling sunflowers is this beautifully converted 4-bedroom farmhouse. Complete with a fully-equipped kitchen, comfortable bedrooms, and a private garden, No. 22 Cognac is the ideal hideaway, particularly for families. Enjoy the use of all the amenities including wifi, a barbecue and outdoor eating area, and splash around in the heated indoor pool.

No. 22 Cognac is based in the quiet village of Louzignac. Its location is perfect – embrace a slower pace of French life during your stay, and meanwhile take day trips to the nearby river, historic towns and beaches.

Sample French cuisine

Louzignac may be peaceful, but that didn’t stop celebrity chef Jean-Yves Corvez opening a restaurant nearby! Take a 20-minute walk from No. 22 Cognac and you’ll find La Table du Chef Corvez. Dine amongst vineyards in his renovated 19^th century barn, and feast on the lunch or evening tasting menus. All the dishes are made in-house and celebrate the local region’s terrain. Only two years since opening, the restaurant has been honoured by the prestigious Gault & Millau awards, and – the icing on the cake – Corvez’s daughter sells her adorable chocolate creations there!

La Roche Courbon

Enjoy a family day out at Château de la Roche Courbon, a 15^th century castle in the grounds of elegant walled gardens. Prior to its conversion by Jean-Louis de Courbon in the 17^th century, the castle was steeped in history from ancient times, as prehistoric dwellings are exhibited as part of the castle’s tours. Abandoned after the revolution, the castle became overgrown and dilapidated, leading to its nickname ‘Sleeping Beauty’s Castle’. Now the castle is full of activities and events, including educational games and tours for children.

Saint-Jean d’Angély

The ancient town of Saint-Jean d’Angély is a must-see destination in Charente-Maritime. Its abbey, a UNESCO heritage site, dates all the way back to the 9^th century and houses the relics of St John the Baptist. Its towers, which were once used as a prison, loom over the roofs yet remain unfinished. The town is a quaint labyrinth of alleys, while the buildings are a mish-mash of white stone and ancient half-timber. There is also the famous Musée des Cordeliers displaying the collection of Andre Citroën’s explorations of Africa and Asia.

Marais Poitevin

If you love exploring the outdoors, the marshy Marais Poitevin in the north of Charente-Maritime is where you’ll find your natural habitat! This stunning nature reserve is full of criss-crossing waterways along which you can travel by boat, some even with a personal gondolier! It’s not called Green Venice for nothing. Discover the huge variety of flora and fauna, the 250 species of birds, and watch the dragonflies float lazily over the water.

La Palmyre Zoo

For another exciting day out with children, visit La Palmyre Zoo. Home to over 1600 animals across 18 hectares of pine forest, a vast range of species await your visit including lions, cheetahs, flamingos, and 30 species of primates! The zoo is also heavily involved in the conservation of endangered species. Thanks to its breeding programmes, La Palmyre records 200-300 births every year.

Food markets

This region is proud of its markets, and so it should be! In total, there are 125 scattered across the region. There’s an incredibly popular covered market in Saint-Jean d’Angély and another spilling out onto the streets of La Rochelle. Pick up fresh fruit and vegetables and local seafood, or simply go to dine on regional delicacies. Don’t miss the market in Matha for a remarkable range of sweet oysters and mussels.

Jarnac

For a relaxed day of sight-seeing, Jarnac is a more peaceful town than the famous Cognac, yet still boasts a gripping history. Within the region of the ‘cognac appellation controlée’, the town is famous for its cognac production, none more so than that from the famous Château Courvoisier distillery. Book a tour of this fascinating museum and enjoy the available tastings! Afterwards, explore Jarnac – stroll along the river and discover the Roman-style church which dates back to the 11^th century.

Beach days

Charente-Maritime’s coast stretches over 460km of soft fine sand, so pack up the car for a day at the beach. If you are a lover of the sea, then this coast is the summer destination for you. It has everything – water sports, naval bases, migrating birds, and oyster beds. Spot the Cordouan Lighthouse at the mouth of the Gironde Estuary or hop between the four islands along the coast – Ré, Oléron, Aix and Madame – each with their own beautiful landscapes.

Boat trips

The Charente river meanders its way through the department and its waters just beg for serene boat trips. Choose available cruises or boat hire from local towns including Jarnac, Cognac, and Angoulême. For other watery adventures, visit the amusement park Port Miniature de Saint-Savinien-sur-Charente. Here, children can have a go sailing their very own miniature warships and galleys!

Rochefort

On the bank of the Charente river is Rochefort – not to be mistaken for Roquefort! This city is famous for its nautical history in which over 550 ships were launched from the former Royal Dockyards built in the 17^th century. Visit the charming, reimagined early-20^th-century village at Le Musée des Commerces d’Autrefois and climb aboard the replica of the frigate Hermione berthed in the dockyard. The real Hermione was launched in 1779 before sailing to America to play her part in the American War of Independence (also called the Revolutionary War).

Distilleries and vineyards

Charente is famous for its huge variety in wine thanks to its incredible terrain of clay and limestone. Tastings and tours are available, and at Le Cep Enchanté, activities such as treasure hunts and escape games keep children and adults alike entertained. Of course, this is the region of cognac, so you must visit the distilleries. Cognac Painturaud Frères is a family-run distillery in Segonzac, and their tours include the vineyards and aging cellars, and end with a delicious tasting session.

Angoulême

Nicknamed ‘the balcony of the southwest’, Angoulême overlooks the Charente river, its tree-lined ramparts surrounding the city. This is Ville de l’Image, named after its love of the comic arts. As such, 30 cartoon murals decorate the city which you can visit by downloading an app for a self-guided tour. Most importantly, of course, is its Marche des Halles selling delicious food and specialities from all over the region.

Cycling and hiking

Discover the beautiful cycling and walking routes of  Charente and Charente-Maritime. La Flow Vélo is a 350km cycle path curving through the major towns. Between each stop, traverse along the river and through vineyards and forests, soaking up the spectacular scenery. If that wasn’t enough, the hiking trails stretch to 5,000km! Walk along the estuary or immerse yourselves deep in the countryside – The Haute-Saintonge combines 30 trails and, if you’re feeling adventurous, hike to the magnificent pearly blue Lake Guizengeard.

Cognac

Last but certainly not least, is Cognac. Here, as the name suggests, is where the popular brandy originated, so with over 200 producers in the area, there are plenty of distilleries to discover. To learn more about the drink, visit the Musée des Arts du Cognac. Beyond the city’s namesake, there is the beautiful old town to explore. Full of charming narrow streets, the history of this merchant town is truly charming.

Want more things to do in the area? Check out Cognac No. 22’s free guide to the Charente and Charente-Maritime on their website and book your stay at: cognac-no22.com

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France hosts the Rugby World Cup in 2023. From 8 September  to 28 October: 7 glorious weeks of sports in stadiums across the country. 48 matches, 660 players, 20 teams from 5 continents, and 45 days of rugby – and festivities.

A whopping 450,000 fans are expected to visit France and millions will watch the games on television all around the world.

The matches take place in 9 host cities each with their own unique character and charm:  Bordeaux, Lens, Lille, Lyon, Marseille, Nantes, Nice, Paris, St Denis, Saint-Étienne and Toulouse. See our top tips for where to go and what to do in each of the host cities.

Paris – Saint-Denis

The Rugby World Cup 2023 kicks off – and ends in Paris.

The city of light, of romance, of love – a lot of clichés and yet, Paris really is such an incredible city that the clichés don’t matter. From the Eiffel Tower to Notre Dame, the Arc de Triomphe and the Louvre – the world’s most popular tourist destination offers a myriad of fascinating places for visitors to fall in love with.

The Stade de France is a gigantic stadium, located in the historic commune of Saint-Denis, a suburb of Paris, 10km from the city centre. It has a seating capacity of 80,000 and is in fact France’s biggest stadium. Reach it by Metro (line 13) to Saint-Denis – Porte de Paris or by RER (train line D) to Stade de France – Saint-Denis.

Must-sees

In Saint-Denis: The Royal Basilica of Saint-Denis was the world’s first monumental masterpiece of Gothic art. The royal necropolis houses the tombs of 75 French kings and queens, and 63 princes and princesses through the centuries

In Paris: Where do we start?!

The flower market close to the great Gothic cathedral of Notre Dame, it’s like a little oasis in the city and has been trading since 1808 (4th Arrondissement). Musée d’Orsay, the former train station turned museum is an incredible building with the world’s largest collection of impressionists masterpieces, plus furniture and sculptures, far easier to get round than the Louvre. If you’ve never done it before, climb the Eiffel Tower for a view over the city like no other. Visit Montmartre for its arty, villagey feel and Sacré-Coeur. Sainte Chapelle – the chapel that’s older than Notre-Dame and feels like standing in a jewel box on a sunny day… Paris has so much to offer, we’d have to write a book to fit it all in!Walk everywhere, it’s the best way to see it all…

Paris’s Gastronomic scene

44,000 restaurants, well over  100 of them are Michelin-starred, and thousands of bars.

In a city where food is elevated to art, Paris offers so many opportunities that the best thing to do is find your own favourite by trial.

Traditional: Brasserie means brewery in France, but the food is the real star, traditional, classic French dishes are the order of the day. Try Bouillon Chartier, one of the most perfectly preserved restaurants of old Paris. Perpetually popular with tourists and Parisians (7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre).

OTT dining experience: The Train Bleu restaurant located inside the Gare du Lyon takes some beating; with a spectacular interior it’s a memorable station buffet!

The Inside Track – Paris

For serious bling and a dip into the royal past of Paris, Versailles is easily reached from Paris via train (from Montparnasse or Saint Lazare stations) or RER Line C. You’ll need a whole day to explore this immense and magnificent palace and gardens.

Unusual: Take a backstage visit of the Opera Garnier. This famous opera house was the setting for the “Phantom of the Opera” story and is a monument to Belle Epoque Paris.

Lille

An hour by train from Paris, the capital of Hauts-de-France, Lille’s old town, is vibrant, exuberant and flamboyant. 17th century buildings, cobble stone streets, intimate courtyards, elegant squares and a thriving café culture. Like a miniature Paris but easier to discover and with a great vibe thanks to a young population.

The match takes place at Stade Pierre Mauroy is located in the Lille suburb of Villeneuve d’Ascq about 6km south-east of Lille’s city centre and main railway station. It’s in a quietish area with not much to do and is located between a motorway, golf course and shopping centre with a few food outlets in the shopping centre. Reach the stadium by metro. It is just a short walk from Metro station Cité Scientifique and 4 Cantons Grand Stade, both on metro line 1. You can take the metro from Lille city centre and at Gare Lille Europe where the Eurostar trains arrive, and from Gare Lille Flandres which is a short walk away.

Must-sees in Lille

Hop on the tram or tube to Roubaix and visit the art deco La Piscine museum in a converted public swimming pool

The old Stock exchange building – the courtyard now hosts a second hand book market which is stunning.

Lille’s Beer and Gastronomic scene

Lille is one of the top gastronomic cities in France and you’ll find a huge array of restaurants. Try the local speciality carbonnade – beef stewed in beer and sugar. Another local favourite,  potchvleesche, may be a bit more of an acquired taste, three cold meats in aspic. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, pop to Meert the superb cake shop in rue Esquermoise where they sell mouth-watering local waffles!

Top tips on where to eat out in Lille

When it comes to bars – it’s all about the beer here – the champagne of the north! There are dozens of microbreweries in the city and surrounding areas. So much choice but don’t miss Le Capsule. Locals will tell you this is THE bar to go to for beer lovers. Knowledgeable staff, comfy chairs and an outstanding, constantly updated range of beers. Bar-lacapsure.fr

Stade Pierre Mauroy is located in the Lille suburb of Villeneuve d’Ascq about 6km south-east of Lille’s city centre and main railway station. It’s in a quietish area with not much to do and is located between a motorway, golf course and shopping centre with a few food outlets in the shopping centre. Reach the stadium by metro. It is just a short walk from Metro station Cité Scientifique and 4 Cantons Grand Stade, both on metro line 1. You can take the metro from Lille city centre and at Gare Lille Europe where the Eurostar trains arrive, and from Gare Lille Flandres which is a short walk away.

Read our guide to Lille

Bordeaux

Elegant and smart – sunny Bordeaux lives up to its nickname “The Pearl of Aquitaine”.

In recent years a major rejuvenation of the Capital of Wine has left it looking very buff indeed. The buildings have been cleaned, a futuristic tram system whizzes people around the city, and the cruise ships that stop here mean that businesses have prospered. All of which mean Bordeaux is one of the finest destinations in France for a visit – especially if you like great wine, fine food, fabulous architecture and vineyards (St Emilion is just 45 minutes away by train).

The match takes place at Stade de Bordeaux 8km from the city centre, it can be easily reached by tram line C, Parc des Expositions/Stade stop; line B, Porte de Brandenburg stop. Or by train, 20 minutes from Bordeaux St Jean Station

Must-sees in Bordeaux

The exceptional Bassins des Lumieres immersive art venue in a former WWII German submarine bunker.

The Cité du Vin wine museum

Read our top ten in Bordeaux

Bordeaux’s wine and gastronomic scene

Let’s face it, this town has more wine bars than you can shake a stick at so, take your pick. From the old wine warehouse district, the Quartier des Chartrons in the old town to the trendy bars in the newer parts of the city.

Gastronomy and wine go hand in hand here. Wander through the atmospheric streets of the old town to discover many enticing cafés, restaurants and bars.

Get the whole low down on Bordeaux for rugby fan with tips on the best restaurants, the top things to do and nearby Saint-Emilion – unmissable.

Lyon

Sophisticated, lively and classy this is a foodie’s paradise, perfect for culture vultures, a shopper’s delight – there’s something for everyone here. The old town is definitely the place to head to for a flavour of Lyon… literally. Pretty much every other building houses a restaurant or Bouchon, a traditional Lyonnais eatery, and the atmosphere is fun, fab and funky. Lyon cossets its visitors and it’s easy to fall in love with this elegant city.

The newly renovated, 59,000 capacity football stadium Stade de Lyon is located around 12km from the city centre. It will house a brasserie Bocuse and entertainment complex. It has been voted the most beautiful football stadium in France by FranceFootball fans. Reach it via tramline 3.

Marseille

Marseille is a city with a split personality: huge modern metropolis/Mediterranean beauty with pockets of tranquillity and outstanding natural allure. Vibrant, sunny, exotic, cultural, gastronomic – Marseille has it all…

The state-of-the-art State Vélodrome reopened in 2014 and is a modern highlight in France’s oldest city. To get there: from the main train station Saint-Charles, take metro line 2 to either Rond-Point du Prado or Sainte Marguerite Dromel (both located at different sides of Stade Vélodrome). The stadium is located in the business district of the town so it’s not great for going out but it’s only a short journey back to the city centre.

Must-sees

Les Calanques, Mucem, day trip to Aix-en-Provence

Marseille’s gastronomic scene

Marseille has lots to keep foodies happy and if you like seafood, then you’re going to be truly indulged here. Splash out on the local speciality bouillabaisse, a spicy fish stew (it’s expensive).

Locals love: Visitors tend to stick to the restaurants around the port – understandable as the views are stupendous. But it is more expensive there and locals tend to go to less touristy areas like the fabulous Cours Julien.

There are loads of bars, the most famous perhaps being La Marine Bar which featured in the film Love Actually.

Nice

One of the most glamorous cities of France, Nice has everything – sun, sea and sparkle. Ever popular with tourists there’s plenty to do and see and it’s not for nothing that this vibrant city is called “the jewel of the Cote d’Azur”.

The old town, Vieux Nice is lively, colourful and vibrant. Stylish streets, marvellous markets, sophisticated shops, boho boutiques and plenty of bars, cafés and restaurants mean there’s something to please everyone here. Nice enjoys the most sunshine of any city in France (300 days a year), has the longest urban seafront in Europe and is the most visited city in France after Paris.

Stade de Nice is about 3 km from the city centre. It is a 6-minute train ride from Nice-Ville to Saint-Augustin station, then take a free shuttle running every 3 minutes in front of Stade Méarelli or take a 10-minute signposted walk.

Toulouse

Toulouse is known as ‘la Ville Rose’ (the Pink City) due to the terracotta bricks used in many of its buildings. It is a sunny, vibrant, elegant city – a curious and fascinating mix of old and new. It’s renowned for its technological track record – it’s the capital of the European aeronautics industry and is home to Europe’s largest space centre.

The 33,000 capacity Stadium de Toulouse where matches will be played is 3km from the city centre, situated on an island. Reach it by metro to either Empalot or St. Michel stations from where it is a 15-minute walk or a free shuttle bus transfer.

Must-sees

Toulouse loves its 18th Century Capitole, a magnificent and grand building that houses the town hall (and the opera house amongst much else). Check out the Salle des Illustres, with spectacular 19th century paintings on the ceiling and walls. Enter via a door in the arched passage of the Capitole – it’s free.

Toulouse is a compact maze of meandering cobbled streets that lure to you to wander and enjoy the colourful buildings, the shops, bars and sites – and there are plenty of them. Museums, churches and huge mansion houses galore (pick up a free booklet from the tourist office for details). See our guide to secret Toulouse…

Gastronomic scene

The old town has a great atmosphere; Place St Georges is the place to go for a taste of local life and lovely terrace cafés. Encircled by classical style buildings and charming shops this is where those in the know hang out.

Saint-Etienne

Not far from Lyon, Saint-Etienne isn’t so well-known but it’s a great city and surrounded by glorious countryside.

There are more than a dozen museums and sites of interest. Saint-Étienne proudly bears the label UNESCO City of Design due to its contemporary style and Le Corbusier designed urban area – considered one of the best examples of the renowned architect’s work in Europe. Everywhere you go here you’ll come across vibrant, quirky and very modern architecture.

The Cité du Design is a centre of creativity and research into design – this is where you’ll see the future! The Musée d’Art et d’Industrie pretty much represents the renaissance of Saint-Étienne from its industrial past and present to a city that today also embraces culture and art with gusto.

Tip: Collect a map and guide book from the tourist office – everything is spread out in this town so you’ll need to check travel details.

Stade Geoffroy-Guichard is located in a business and industrial area. It’s not greatly appealing and offers little in the way of bars and restaurants, so stay in the main city centre for more options. To get to the stadium around 3km away, take tram T1 or T2 and alight at stop G. Guichard. From there it is a 5 to 10-minute walk to the stadium.

Nantes

Nantes is buzzing, vibrant, creative, with districts that vary considerably.  There are elegant buildings around the Place de l’Opera as well as the dazzling shopping centre. The quirky island of the machines on Nantes Island is a must-see – giant mechanical animals that are truly spectacular. You can take boat rides on the river Erdre to see the glorious countryside on Nantes’ doorstep. Visit the vast Chateau of the Ducs de Bretagne, hand out in the old district of Bouffay with its maze of streets and welcoming bars. Nantes is a sprawling city so pop to the tourist office to get a guide to all the sights. There’s a tram system so it’s easy to get around.

Matches take place at Stade de la Beaujoire, take a tram from the city centre, Line 1, and get off at Beaujoire from where its a very short walk.

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