Joanna Leggett explores the fascinating history of the river Seine and some of its most magical ports of call…

The River Seine is France’s second largest river, from Source-Seine to Le Havre is 780 kms and, with its tributaries, it drains an area of almost 79,000 square kilometres. And, of course, it flows through the Île-de France, the nation’s heartland and major metropolitan region. Much of the river is navigable, for the tidal section of the Seine Maritime is followed by a canalised section where locks lift river boats up to the level of the river in Paris, and then it continues towards Champagne and Burgundy.

River Seine in art

The Seine has long had fans – the Impressionists painted it time and time again. Impressionism was born from a painting of Le Havre harbour by Monet which he named ‘Impression, Sunrise’ in 1874. The list of names is almost a roll call of some of the greatest in the world, from earlier works by JMW Turner to Van Gogh, Renoir, Sisley, Monet, Manet and, of course, Renoir then there were the Post Impressionists from Boudin to Matisse. They portrayed changing seasons, river and port activities, Seine-side pastimes and places where artists stayed or sometimes someone just rowing along the river (as magically captured by Caillebotte) while perfectly attired in top hat, cravat, waistcoat and striped shirt! Then there is Seurat’s ‘Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte’ set on an island in the Seine with everyone formally attired with hats, parasols with dresses boasting some very impressive bustles.

The start of the River Seine

The Seine actually rises a long, long way southeast of Paris (it takes a good three hours flat out on motorways just to get there) in the commune of Source-Seine northwest of Dijon. The spring here is just a trickle, however there is an artificial grotto which includes a statue of a nymph, dog and naturally for good measure a dragon! Apparently on the same site are the buried remains of a Gallo-Roman temple (of course the Romans were here first!) while small statues of the ‘Seine Goddess’ and other votive offerings found here are now housed in the museum at Dijon. The name of the river actually comes from the Latin Sëquana, who was goddess of the river.

The route of the Seine

As its path meanders seawards, it leaves the region of Burgundy and enters Champagne above Troyes while other rivers join along the way, perhaps the most well-known of these the Marne which joins just as it enters Paris!

Troyes is a delightful medieval town awash with half-timbered buildings, the heart of the city coincidentally has the characteristic shape of a Champagne cork. Here there are narrow streets, grand 16th century mansions and beautiful churches.

From here the river winds onwards, past woods around Fontainebleau until it reaches Paris. Dividing the city in two, in fact it borders 10 of Paris’ 20 arrondissements and is the city’s chief commercial waterway. People are either on its Left or Right Bank. There are 32 bridges in Paris – the oldest being the Pont Neuf. Another popular bridge is the pedestrian Pont des Arts which was once smothered with locks attached by trysting lovers – by 2014 these had got so heavy part of the parapet collapsed so now lovers have to take a selfie instead, though it’s said if you kiss someone as you sail under the Pont Neuf – you are bound to return to Paris! There are floating restaurants, discos, expensive cafés and all sorts of wonderful places to explore along the banks in Paris.

From Paris the river runs seawards in great loops through Normandy, past châteaux and Giverny where Claude Monet lived and gardened. Onwards it flows through a series of locks to the heart of Normandy and its capital, Rouen (read about Rouen here in The Good Life France Magazine). It was here Joan of Arc met her sad end, and it’s said that what was left of her ashes were tipped into the Seine.

The river passes through the ancient and truly charming town of Honfleur. Seated at a café with a glass of pommeau (the apple-based apéro traditional to Normandy) beside the Vieux-Bassin lined with ancient townhouses watching the sun set, is one of those memorable moments that stay with you forever.

Then it flows under the  Pont de Normandie in Le Havre, one of the longest cable-stayed bridges the world, high and wide enough to allow ocean going vessels to pass beneath to travel onwards. By this time the Seine has become a wide, mighty confluence and here it empties out into the Channel, it’s journey ended.

Joanna Leggett is marketing director at Leggett Immobilier – you can view their full portfolio of properties for sale in all the areas mentioned as well as the rest of France at www.leggettfrance.com

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There are a whole host of pretty villages to visit in Spring in France and we’ve picked just a few of our favourites.

Gerberoy, Picardy

Famous for its roses, Gerberoy is best visited in late spring when every street is awash with colour. Claiming to be the “smallest town in France” Gerberoy in Picardy, close to the Normandy border, is stunningly pretty. In June there’s a festival of roses but generally it’s a rather sleepy little place with a few shops, restaurants and places to stay. The mainly 17th and 18th century houses are beautifully preserved. The artist Henri-le-Sidaner lived here, introduced to the village by his friend the sculptor Rodin in 1903. Sidaner’s house and gardens are truly gorgeous, not as big as Monet’s garden but the artistry, the use of colour is certainly there. Go during the week when the village is quiet and discover a tiny but memorably beautiful little corner of Picardy.

Oh and that claim! It goes back to 1202 when King Philippe August granted Gerberoy the title “smallest town in France”.

Veules – les Roses, Normandy

This small village is chocolate box-lid pretty. Nestled in a forested valley in Seine-Maritime, Normandy this little seaside town has inspired many artists. It’s fame spread in the 19th century thanks to an actress of the Comedie-Francaise in Paris. When her heart was broken she fled Paris and arrived in the village and fell in love with its beauty and authenticity. She invited friends there, and they too loved it and invited their friends including Victor Hugo was became a big fan. The Impressionists captured it on canvas over and over.

With thatched roof cottages straddling France’s smallest river – the Veules, at 1.94 km, ancient restored mills and every house and street overflowing with flowers and floral displays – it’s an absolute delight in the spring.

Porto-Vecchio, Corsica

With mild weather and plenty of sunshine, the island of Corsica is lovely in spring – especially from May onwards. With abundant flowers and plants bursting into life the floral island is stunning. It’s a great time for hiking, cycling – even a dip in the sea if you don’t mind it a little bit cold! In summer, French holiday makers descend on Corsica but in the spring it’s uncrowded. The whole island is beautiful and a great way to see it in spring is with a CroisiEurope cruise. The boat departs from Nice, sails around the island taking in the most famous and beautiful parts and returns to Nice. Read our review

There are no large cities on the island. There are several towns and numerous little villages and hamlets. Porto-Vecchio which has fabulous beaches including the islands most famous beach Palombiaggia. Vineyards cover the hills that rise up around the town, which was founded in 383 BC. Below the city the salt marshes glitter in the sunshine and in spring the restaurants and shops seem to burst into life alongside the flowers.

La Couvertoirade, Aveyron

The little villages of La Couvertoirade is in Aveyron, southeast France. Visit here for a glimpse into a long-gone past. This is one of the best preserved Templar Knights villages in France, and it’s a classified plus beaux village – officially one of the prettiest villages in France. Perched above the plateau of Larzac, a land of fertile valleys which in spring are lusciously green and flowery. Wander cobbled streets in this mini-Carcassonne, just an hour’s drive from Montpellier. And breathe in the fresh spring air. Bliss.

Read more about La Couvertoirade in our free Magazine The Good Life France (issue 29)

Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert

Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert in Occitanie,  just 40km from Montpellier, is a Plus Beaux Village de France (an official classification for the prettiest villages in France). The village is arranged around a main central square which is home to the biggest plane tree in France. Winding cobbled streets radiate from the square likes spokes of a wheel lined with picturesque houses, tiny little boutiques and art galleries and tinkling fountains. It’s a little off the beaten track but oh so pretty – well worth the effort to find it.

Read more about Saint-Guilhem-le-Dessert in our free Magazine The Good Life France

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Paris is always a good idea! There’s so much to see and do, so many museums, galleries, the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe and so much more. But, with the Loire Valley just a short distance away, close enough for a day trip – you really don’t want to miss out on seeing some of the most beautiful castles in the world. And the good thing is, it’s easy to to it without a car. Just hop on the train to Tours, and join a tour.

Day trips to the Loire Valley

To make your day trip to the Loire easy and doable – we recommend Ophorus Tours. Hop on a train from Paris to Tours, the quickest way to reach the Loire Valley 200km away. Trains take from just one hour 8 minutes – and there are 20 trains a day. From the Tourist office in Tours, a 5-minute walk from the station, Ophorus organise tours to the most beautiful Loire Valley Chateaux and to the vineyards where a wine tasting is included.

These are small group tours with transport to the parts of the Loire Valley that are not so easy to reach by public transport or take too much time to get to. You’ll get skip the line access. And a local English speaking guide will accompany you to make your visit the very best it can be. You’ll then be dropped back at Tours to take the train back to Paris.

Chateau de Chambord

The Chateau de Chambord is monumental. It was intended to reflect the almighty power of the King of France, Francois I. It worked then as it does now. Unique architecture, the memorable rooftop with its many towers and turrets. If you only have time to visit one chateau in the Loire Valley – this one is the grandest (and Chenonceau, below, is the prettiest). Chambord boasts 440 rooms. Numerous staircases including a famous double-helix staircase said to have been inspired by Leonardo da Vinci who lived close by in Amboise. The grandeur of this castle is quite breath-taking. And, since it’s so easy to reach from Paris – don’t miss out! Find out more and book the tour: ophorus.com/chambord

Chateau de Chenonceau

Visit one of the most beautiful, elegant and enchanting castles in France. The Chateau de Chenonceau, in the heart of the Loire Valley, is approached by a majestic tree-lined drive. At the end of the walkway, before you lies some of the most incredible architecture in the world. The splendour is quite overwhelming with towers and turrets and a unique arched gallery that crosses the river Cher, where Kings and Queens once danced.

This is a masterpiece of Renaissance architectureEvery room is filled with gorgeous floral displays, produced by the onsite florist, awarded title of the best florist in France. The rooms are sumptuously decorated. The gardens are magnificent. This is a must-visit castle if you’re in Paris! Find out more and book the tour: ophorus.com/chenonceau

Day trip to the Loire Valley Vineyards and Chinon

If you long to see the famed Loire Valley vineyards, taste the wine where it’s made, and visit an ancient town with a majestic fortress – then take a day trip from Paris! After you arrive in Tours, meet your guide at the tourist office and you’ll be whisked away in comfort to visit a Loire Valley domaine and enjoy a wine tasting. No need to worry about driving!

Then you’ll go to the city of Chinon, dominated by its royal fortress. Wander the ancient cobbled streets lined with medieval houses, a favourite resort of French Kings and their nobles. You’ll have time to stop for lunch in the gorgeous  town before heading off back to the vineyards for another wine tasting at a different winery. Wine tastings include red, white and sparkling wines. And you’ll be back in Paris in time for dinner! Find out more and book at ophorus.com/loirevalleywinetour

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Explore three contrasting coastal communities near Nice. Take it easy in Eze, enjoy laidback Villefranche-sur-Mer and chill in Cap-Ferrat – three truly pretty villages of the French Riviera..

Stand amongst the cacti and exotic blooms of Les Jardins d’Eze and you’re treated to one of the most glorious views on the French Riviera. From this hilltop garden high above the Mediterranean, I’m looking westward over the stone walls and terracotta roofs of medieval Eze towards Nice. On a sparkling morning like this, breath-taking doesn’t even come close. And with 300 sunshine days a year, it’s a view that can be enjoyed all year round.

Villas tumble down the steep hillside in front of me and beyond a wooded headland. The slim peninsula of St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat marks the eastern boundary of Villefranche Bay, the pretty resort tantalisingly hidden from view. The city of Nice is out of sight too behind the southern tip of the Alpes Maritimes. But its coastal airport is clearly visible in the far distance, a reminder that UNESCO’s ‘Winter Resort of the Riviera’ is only a bus ride away.

Take a city break in Nice and it’s easy to spend your time exploring the quaint streets of Vieux Nice, the Baroque churches, tempting boutiques and eclectic mix of museums. But the Greater Nice area includes a huge variety of picturesque locations from the mountain villages of the Mercantour to a clutch of coastal communities that lie east of the city. A stunning combination that just begs to be explored.

Take it easy in Eze

Classified as an elite ‘Jardin Remarquable’, the Exotic Garden of Eze features succulent plants from arid areas across the globe. The cacti, aloes and agaves sit besides sculptures in terracotta and bronze. This magical plot stands at the highest point of the medieval village, 1400 feet above the modern town centre at sea level. Today, the steep streets of the showpiece medieval village are beautifully maintained and manicured. This is a popular place with cruise ship passengers.  And there is atmospheric accommodation that includes three  5-star hotels.

For a special occasion, treat yourself to a meal at La Chèvre d’Or restaurant with its two coveted Michelin stars. But it’s still easy to feel the atmosphere of ancient stones in Eze, especially if you can visit early or late in the day, or in low season. There’s a real sense of time gone by as you pass beneath medieval gateways. Walk beside walls that date back to the Bronze Age.  And contemplate the Riquier Mansion, home to the powerful Lords of Eze from the 12^th to 15^th centuries.

It’s also easy just to soak up the view over a refreshing glass on a café terrace. But to see a different side of the village, take one of the marked hiking routes along winding paths fringed with bougainvillea and jasmine. There’s plenty of Riviera fragrance to be had too on a free tour and workshop at Parfumerie Gallimard and at the Fragonard factory. Plus a wealth of small craft boutiques for that special present to give away, or even keep yourself.

Laidback in Villefranche

With its sheltered harbour and calm waters, Villefranche-sur-Mer is one of the major cruise ports of the Côte d’Azur, despite numbering just 5,000 residents. In the 13^th century, local people preferred to live in the hills away from the threat of pirates. So in 1295, Charles Duke of Anjou and Count of Provence, established a ‘free port’ – ville franche. It offered various tax privileges in a bid to persuade them to relocate to sea level, concessions that largely remained until the 18^th century.

Today the pretty fishing port is also home to a flotilla of yachts and traditional fishing boats known as pointus. Yet Villefranche still manages to retain an air of laidback loveliness with its seafront cafes, colourful facades and quaint 16^th century back streets. It’s hard not to smile in a place where every narrow street has houses painted in a palette of lemon and apricot, russet and terracotta. And I loved the stylish, upbeat feel of the baroque bell towers, painted shutters, and wrought-iron balconies overlooking the harbour.

Cultural and delicious

Even my lunch at Le Cosmo bar was ablaze with Mediterranean atmosphere. Fresh white fish, scarlet tomato salsa, bright green rocket, and a wedge of lemon, all presented with a swirl of balsamic vinegar on a speckled blue and white plate. Just add a glass of chilled local rosé and some crisp baguette for the perfect light lunch. I even had a front row view of the 16^th century Chapel of Saint-Pierre. It was used as a storeroom for fishermen until artist Jean Cocteau restored it in 1957. He adorned the interior with murals of St Peter and local fishermen.

Stroll through the citadel built in 1554, eleven years after the town was burned to the ground following the siege of Nice by combined French and Ottoman forces. With sweeping views over the harbour, it served as a military base after Nice and Savoie became part of France in 1860. It was bought by the city council in 1965 and transformed into a City Hall and cultural centre.

Chilled in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat

If I had money – lots of money – a holiday home in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat would be high on my wish list. This slim peninsula between Villefranche-sur-Mer to the west and neighbouring Beaulieu-sur-Mer fans out into a wooded Y-shape where luxury homes nestle discreetly in the pine trees behind high fences.

But there appears to be no envy on the part of less well-off residents. They insist that the wealthy don’t flash their cash here unless it is to support local businesses, albeit on the way to their luxury yachts in the harbour. But compared to many wealthy enclaves around the Mediterranean, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is amongst the most discreet.

This once small fishing village flourished as a resort in the Belle Epoque era. The first luxury hotel opened in 1904 – now the Hotel Royal-Riviera. In the 1950s, it attracted artists like Jean Cocteau and Henri Matisse, as well as movie stars such as Roger Moore and Elizabeth Taylor, Charlie Chaplin and Tony Curtis. Today you can still spot famous faces sipping coffee by the quayside.

My tip is to follow one of the marked trails with a free leaflet from the Tourist Office. Explore the village centre and the hidden beaches and monuments around the headlands. You could even walk the 9km-trail to Nice and catch a No 15 bus back.

Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

But don’t leave without visiting the outstanding Villa and Gardens of Ephrussi de Rothschild. Another Jardin Remarquable as well as a Monument Historique. This extraordinary property with sea views on both sides offers nine themed gardens, musical fountains, and an opulent interior, plus the irresistible story of the extraordinary Béatrice de Rothschild who created it. Well, maybe not all local residents have been low key, but she did leave something for us all to enjoy!

Getting Around

Catch a train from Nice to the seafront station at Villefranche, or hop off the Nice Grand Tour sightseeing bus. Eze is also accessible by train – sea level station beneath the medieval village – or by public bus from Nice (Line 82) or by train. www.nicetourisme.com

The French Riviera Pass gives free access to a wide range of attractions and activities in Nice, as well as Villefranche, Eze and Cap-Ferrat. Choose from 12, 48 or 72 hours (www.frenchrivierapass.com).

Alternatively, do as I did and take a bespoke tour by car with Villefranche resident Sandra Ottaviani. Particularly good if time is short or you are travelling in a small group. (www.inspiring-cotedazur.com).

Gillian Thornton is a writer who specialises in France and lifestyle.

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Can there be anywhere more magical than the snowy French Alps at Christmas? We think not!

There’s a ton of choice for festive Christmas markets but we’ve picked our top 5, plus where to stay to make the most of your magical time in the French mountains…

Annecy

Nicknamed the “Venice of the Alps” Annecy – a year-round delight – positively sparkles in winter and its Christmas Market is irresistibly enchanting. There are 80 pop-up chalets where artisans offer a range of handmade goods, and local produce. There’s an open air ice skating rink, concerts and cribs, plus seriously tempting food stalls – rustic, scrumptious raclette and tasty tartiflette – and twinkling fairy lights galore. Annecy’s festive market runs from 19^th November to 1 January 2023 and really channels the true spirit of Christmas.

Wrap up warm and wander the frosty cobbled streets of the old town. From the castle at the top of the town you’ll have great views over the surroundings. Whizz about the ice skating rink that’s set up for Christmas. Enjoy the sparkling lights. Stop for a hot chocolate at one of the many cosy cafés. Enjoy an aperitif at an outdoor café when the dusk turns velvet blue. With the snowy mountains backdrop this is an irresistible place for a festive holiday.Find out more about Annecy and the Annecy Mountains resorts at: www.annecymountains.com

Stay at: There’s plenty of choice in Annecy from apartments in the city to chalets around the lake – for couples, groups or families but we find it hard to resist the rather lovely SwansDoors. A gorgeous apartment that’s part of the old city walls with a view from the window over the Pont Perrière which crosses the Thious Canal. And it’s just steps from the stunning Palais de l’Île, one of the most stunning landmarks in a city full of unforgettable sites.

Les Gets, Portes du Soleil

They say that Santa Claus lives with his elves in Les Gets! Well it might not be true but this lovely resort does have a very festive vibe at Christmas. There’s a Christmas market, shows and fireworks. Superb pistes are suitable for skiers of all ages, including a Snow Garden for little ones. There’s also ski-joering, electric snow mobile and much more.

But it’s at dusk when this town reveals its unique magic. Alta Lumina is a sound and light show in an enchanted forest. If you ever read a fairy tale as a kid and wondered what it would be like to be “in” a land of fairy tales, this is probably how it would look, sound and feel. Trilling bird song, thousands of lights, and state of the art projection sees a hot air balloon lift off in in the forest and lead you through a story. It isn’t Disney, it has a gentle, soft, authentic vibe, drawing you into the heart of the forest, whispering of magic and bewitching tales.

Stay at: Chalet Joux Verte, a traditional style chalet with sauna and hot and glorious views, it simply adds to the magic of a stay in Les Gets.

Megève

At around 1.2km above sea level, Megève was once a medieval farming village. It’s now a charming, incredibly pretty ski destination with several Michelin starred restaurants. In winter the town puts on its Ritziest look and sparkles with thousands of lights. The central Christmas tree will be illuminated from 3 December until the end of the year and there’s a fun-filled calendar of events throughout the month including a Christmas market, parades, concerts, Reindeer visits, aperitifs in an igloo and much more. Find all the details:  megeve-tourisme.fr/en

Where to stay: It’s hard to pick as there are just so many fabulous chalets here but hard to resist Chalet Goville in La Giettaz, ticks all the boxes when you want a bit of luxury, glorious views, room for family and friends, a sauna, hot tub with a view, ski room, boot warmer and even a wine cellar. Yes, it may be hard to leave this place but just outside the door are stunning slopes…

Val d’Arly

Lying between Megève and Albertville, the Valley of Arly comprises four village ski resorts with superb skiing and snow sports, including electric moon bikes. Traditional Christmas markets take place in each of the different resorts from 18-21 December. Views of the majestic Mont-Blanc, mugs of mulled wine – the steam making patterns in the air, gingerbread and dazzling snowy peaks. It’s got the lot. Find out more at the Val d’Arly Tourist office website valdarly-montblanc.com

Combined with a stay at the rather gorgeous Chalet Sabaroc you’ll make memories to cherish forever.

La Clusaz Aravis

There are plenty of gorgeous postcard pretty Alpine villages close to Annecy for a festive and feel good visit. But don’t miss out on La Clusaz’s incredible Christmas Festival, the Pesticales du Pere Noel. The lovely resort has been celebrating this fun event for more than 20 years – the biggest family street theatre in the winter in the Alps! It’s all about celebrating in this Christmas wonderland. It’s completely free and takes place 19-31 December 2023. Find out more: en.laclusaz.com

Stay at: It’s just so hard to pick just one stunning place for a super holiday in lovely La Clusaz, but Chalet Timan is pretty unbeatable. Ski-in/ski-out, sauna and fitness area, and magnificent views. You’ll feel like you’re in the middle of nowhere but lucky you, the ski bus stops just 150m away and its only a 15 minute walk to the centre of the village – you don’t need a car here!

OVO Networks superb range of chalets in the French Alps is second to none…

Be the first to hear about special offers, new chalets and new from the Alps with the OVO Network newsletter – sign up here

If you have holiday rental accommodation in the French Alps, find out more about how OVO Network can help you achieve year-round bookings.

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There are hundreds of gorgeous little French villages, historic cities, off the beaten track beauties and iconic landmarks. We look at ten of the most unmissable places in France …

Champagne

Our tour de France wouldn’t be complete if we didn’t mention the birthplace of bubbly in the list of the best things to do. The Champagne region, which lies about 1.5 hours from Paris in the north-eastern part of France, is a must-visit destination for anyone who appreciates wine. Viewing the setting sun over rolling vineyards and a dreamy landscape is more than enough reason to visit the region. It is possible to tour one of the Champagne houses if you wish to learn more about Champagne – an unforgettable experience.

Gorges du Verdon

Why not visit the French equivalent of the Grand Canyon! Found in France’s south-eastern region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur the Gorges du Verdon, a 700 metres deep landmark is a must-see. The largest limestone canyon in Europe, carved by the Verdon River. A big attraction for those who love adrenaline-styled water sports and activities.

Corsica

Visit the stunning Mediterranean island Corsica, and you will soon forget that you’re on French land. Sitting between Italy and France, this island celebrates the best of each culture. The island is famous as the birthplace of Napoleon. And it is easy to see why it is known as the island of beauty. The stylish coastal towns, pristine forests, and rocky peaks are wild, unspoiled and beautiful. There are around 1,000 kilometres of picturesque turquoise coastline to explore, plus Corsica is a hotbed for scuba diving and snorkelling. If activities are not your thing and you want to relax, the pristine sandy beaches are irresistible.

Provence

Provence is one of the most beautiful destinations in France especially for its seemingly endless expanse of lavender farms. The area is almost completely covered with aromatic crops during the summer. The Valensole Plateau, the Sault Plateau, and the Luberon Valley are among the most beautiful places to visit. For a photo that captures the beauty of Provence perfectly, nothing beats the flower meadows surrounding the Notre-Dame de Sénanque Abbey. Every June and July, tucked away in the peaceful countryside near Gordes, the beautiful 12th-century church is bathed in purple hues.

Dune du Pilat

The top of the Dune du Pilat, Bordeuax, which boasts stunning 360-degree panoramic views of the region, is a must-see for nature lovers. The breath-taking natural wonder, which is one of the most well-known sites in France, is located in La Teste-de-Buch on the Arcachon Bay coast. Every year, over one million people come to climb to the top and stroll along the 2.7km ridge.

Rocamadour

The wonderful hilltop hamlet of Rocamadour is France’s second most visited attraction, after Mont-Saint-Michel. The sacred village perched high on a limestone cliff overlooking the Alzou canyon in the Dordogne region is nothing short of spectacular. The UNESCO-protected mediaeval town was once a notable pilgrimage site renowned for its religious buildings. A famous statue known as the Black Madonna, which dates from the 15th century, is housed in the Chapel of Notre Dame.

Mont Saint-Michel

Mont Saint-Michel is a magnificent mediaeval monastery perched on an island 600 metres off the coast of Normandy. The stunning ancient building looks like something from a fairy tale. The sheer natural beauty of this ancient city is enhanced by the tiny, twisting lanes and picturesque timber-framed homes that climb up to it.

Auvergne

It is the world’s largest volcanic ensemble and a prehistoric-era relic nestled within the heart of central France. There are four volcanic massifs in the park which cover 395,000 hectares. As the highest volcano in the region, the Puy de Dôme stands at an altitude of 1,465 metres. There are thousands of visitors from around the world who come to see these long-dormant sleeping giants. Hot-air ballooning, cycling, and hiking are popular on the peaks.

Saint-Tropez

There are many opportunities in Saint-Tropez for you to immerse yourself in the luxury lifestyle the town is famous for. Along the French Riviera, this gorgeous resort is home to countless designer boutiques, immaculate beaches, and yacht-hopping celebrities. It originally started out as a sleepy fishing village but was transformed into a luxury resort in the late 19th-century with the arrival of artists such as Paul Signac and Albert Marquet.

The Loire Valley

Formerly the home of French royalty and nobility, the Loire Valley is known as the garden of France. It is one of France’s most iconic tourist destinations today and a UNESCO-lisetd World Heritage Site. Castles date back to the 9th century, but the Renaissance castles are the most famous like Chambord and Chenonceau. There are more than 300 elaborate chateaux open to the public, and each has a different story to tell.

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Yvoire, in Haute-Savoie, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, was founded in 1306 when Amédée V, Count of Savoy began fortifying the former fishing village. It’s officially one of the most beautiful villages in France (Plus Beaux Villages de France). Sitting on the shores of the grand Lake Geneva, known as Lac Leman in French, it’s nicknamed the “pearl of Lake Geneva.”

The colourful streets of the medieval village have won it numerous and prestigious floral awards. The village overflows with flowers in bright colours. The displays are seasonal and make visits a constant pleasure. And the Garden of the Five Senses, featuring 1500 varieties of plants, makes for a sensory walk accompanied by bird song and the sound of a tinkling stream.

Artists have long flocked to the village. The lake is always a pure blue, small fishing boats, yachts and pleasure boats offer a different view of the town from the water.

Photographer Jerome Palacios from Mougins in the south of France loves to capture it’s medieval beauty. His partner Manuella Houssais says “Yvoire is full of history. There is a 14th century castle, ramparts, fortified gates and beautiful medieval houses. Stroll through the streets. Discover the labyrinth of the Jardin des Cinq Sens which offers a green escape in the heart of the village. Browse the quaint shops. And sample the delicious restaurants. There are many pleasures to be found here…”

In the heart of the village, be sure to visit the Jardin des Cinq Sens. Classified as a Remarkable Garden by the Ministry of Culture, this little paradise of greenery invites you to a poetic discovery of plants though the 5 senses.

See more of France on Jerome’s Instagram page: Instagram.com/jeromepalcios

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Enjoy the good life with oodles of Gallic style in Charente-Maritime when you stay at Cognac No. 22 , a gorgeous gite farmhouse. Located in beautiful countryside, close to the stunning Atlantic coast, surrounded by vineyards and fields in a quintessentially French region. Enjoy the freshest seafood, seasonal local produce and of course the world famous Cognac, combined with days out on the beach and visits to historic towns and picturesque villages.

Farmhouse Gite

Cognac No. 22 is a beautiful, fully renovated 4-bedroom farmhouse in the rural village of Louzignac near Cognac. It’s surrounded by fields, vines and in the summer, sunflowers. Close to the tranquil Charente River, it’s just minutes from the historic market towns of Rouillac and Matha. Louzignac is ideally situated for trips to Cognac, St Jean D’Angely, La Rochelle, Ile de Ré, Saintes and Angouleme. Bordeaux and even Saint-Emilion, or Riberac in Dordogne, are within easy reach.  It really is in the most superb location.

Owners Carolyn and Paul have thought of everything to make a stay here idyllic for families, friends or couples. It’s family-friendly, stylish and well equipped with wi-fi and satellite tv. There’s a heated indoor pool overlooking the gorgeous landscaped gardens, towels and robes provided, and a barbecue on the sunny terrace. Enjoy freshly-baked croissants from the local boulangerie – and don’t leave without a delicious brioche Suisse advises Carolyn. There are bikes available for exploring the area and even a hamper with everything you need on arrival.

Highlights of the area

Close to Cognac No. 22, the gentle Charente River is ideal for water babies and sailors. Head to nearby Cognac to take a slow cruise, including a Cognac tasting session if that floats your boat!

The name cognac is synonymous the world over with the finest French spirit. While you’re there, wander the pretty cobbled streets, enjoy the fabulous restaurants and take a guided tour of the town’s major cognac houses including Chateau Royal de Cognac. It’s here that King Francis I was born in 1494, though it’s now the domaine of Baron Otard, a cognac producer founded in 1795. There’s also a fascinating  Musée des Arts du Cognac and Cognac Country Discovery centre.

You’ll find more big name producers in nearby Jarnac. Follow the five themed Cognac Trails to meet smaller producers of both cognac and delicious local pineau aperitif, as well as traditional craftsmen.

And when it comes to gastronomy and wine – you’re truly spoiled for choice here. There’s a plethora of restaurants – from authentic cafés to Michelin starred. Within walking distance, top chef Jean-Yves Corvez has his own restaurant. Chef Corvez, a legend in France, creates dishes that make memories  – and you can also stock up on his daughter’s home-made chocolate at the restaurant.

Countryside

Enjoy a hike or cycle ride through glorious countryside with uncrowded roads, shaded by trees as you pass fields full of sunflowers and vineyards. Stop off for a spot of fishing or tour the hidden gems of the area – ancient water mills and sleepy villages, Romanesque churches and heritage towns.

Beaches

Or head to the beaches. Charente-Maritime has 100km of Atlantic coast silky-sand beaches and fabulous Fouras and charming Chatellailon Plage are only an hour from Louzignac.

Go island hopping! There are four to choose from: Oléron, Ré, Aix and Madame. They are all quite different and make for a great day out.

Don’t miss La Rochelle, just a little over an hour from Cognac No. 22. Head for the Vieux Port, the charming and historic quarter with its market, shops, restaurants, bars, museums, aquarium and seafood.

Kids of all ages will love Puy du Fou. It is an incredible, multi-award winning theme park where historical shows are performed, the like of which you will never forget. Think burning viking ships, Roman gladiators in a full-sized coliseum and much more, it really is magical. And then there’s Futuroscope. There the attractions are based on multimedia, cinematography and audio-visual techniques, with 3D and 4D attractions, some of which are unique in the world

Market days

Markets are a way of life and part of the culture of France and there are plenty to choose from in the area. St Jean D’Angely, originally the site of a Roman Villa, now an enchanting town of cobbled lanes and medieval houses, holds markets twice a week. When your basket is filled, stop and indulge in a café crème at Rum Runners and watch the world go by. In Saintes (above) the weekly market is home to one of the best bread stalls in France. There’s a big monthly market in Rouillac. And in Aulnay, famous for its church on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela, there is a bustling Sunday morning market. Plus there are markets in Cognac and Jarnac, and many more of the local towns.

Historic towns

Spend a day in Saintes to visit its outstanding Roman remains and see its elegant Renaissance town houses. And don’t miss Angoulême, home to the unique Comic Strip Museum. Rochefort – the cradle of French naval history and maritime culture and home to Hermione, the replica ship of Lafayette. Bordeaux city centre and wine town Bergerac are a little over two hours away by car. Limoges, Oradour-sur-Glane and Nontron are easy to reach.

A truly brilliant gite holiday in Charente-Maritime

Cognac No. 22 is in an idyllic location. Close to so many of France’s most wonderful sites and destinations. And with so much to do on the doorstep, simply unwind, relax and let the world pass by when you take a break here.

Find out more and book your stay at: cognac-no22.com

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Every year since 2012, there’s a flurry of excitement in my house when the TV Show “Village préféré des Français” – Favourite village of the French – announces the list of candidates. Often they are places you may not have heard of, so it’s a great introduction to off-the-beaten-track France. The winner is chosen by public vote. This of course means that the most loyal inhabitants of a village or region can often sway the result by enthusiastic clicking for their local candidate. That said, every village featured is always beautiful. And here’s the proof – a look back at the winners since the start…

2012: Saint-Cirq-Lapopie (Midi-Pyrenees)

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie in the Lot department, was the first village to be crowned the favourite village of the French (top photo). Perched above the River Lot, the medieval town – which is also one of the “Most Beautiful Villages of France”, it has many historical monuments. Cobbled streets lined with ancient houses, cafes, arts and crafts shops and restaurants, wind their way up the cliff. It was a well deserved win. Read more about Saint-Cirq-Lapopie

2013: Eguisheim (Alsace)

Another one from the list of “Most Beautiful Villages of France”, Eguisheim is famous for its flowery good looks and quintessential Alsatian charm. It also hosts a beautiful Christmas market.

2014: Cordes-sur-Ciel (Midi-Pyrénées)

Cordes-sur-Ciel touches the clouds and legend says it was created by the stars. Its steep streets  are full of treasures – picturesque wooden doors, medieval facades, old-fashioned signs, fantastic sculptures. Read more about Cordes-sur-Ciel

2015: Ploumanac’h (Brittany)

Ploumanac’h, in the town of Perros-Guirec, Côtes-d’Armor is one of the most beautiful seaside towns in Brittany. Picture-postcard good looks, sandy beaches, the famous Mean Ruz lighthouse and its magnificent pink granite rocks make this a standout location. Read more about the  Cotes d’Armor

2016: Rochefort-en-Terre (Brittany)

A second consecutive win for Brittany with the village of Rochefort-en-Terre, in Morbihan. With its medieval castle, half-timbered and grey stone houses and flowery central square, it’s easy to see how this town could steal your heart.

2017: Kaysersberg (Alsace)

Small but perfect Kaysersberg is near Colmar. The village stands out thanks to its imperial castle, half-timbered houses and fortified bridge spanning the Weiss River. At Christmas it hosts one of the prettiest markets in France. Now there’s an idea – favourite Christmas market of the French anyone?

2018: Cassel (Hauts-de-France)

Cassel in the Nord has Flemish good look, traditional inns, known as estaminets, and a famous carnival. The town’s museum is dedicated to Flemish art since the fifteenth century. And don’t miss the gorgeous gardens du Mont des Recollets – like walking into a Breugel painting. Read more about Cassel

2019: Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue (Normandy)

Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue, on the north-eastern tip of the Cotentin peninsula, has a pretty fishing port and authentic little town. Just 30 minutes from Cherbourg, the village is famous for its oysters and, at low tide, the oyster beds provide a link between the mainland and Tatihou Island. Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue is also home to the Vauban de la Hougue tower, which stands at the entrance of the small harbour and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with its sister tower on the island opposite.

2020: Hunspach (Alsace)

Hunspach is in Wissembourg, at the end of the Vosges du Nord Regional Nature Park, which borders Germany. Home, like so many little villages in Alsace, to a beautiful Christmas market and a perfect base to explore the area.

2021: Sancerre (Centre-Val de Loire)

Sancerre sits atop a rocky hill overlooking the Loire Valley. A tranquil and authentic little village surrounded by the vineyards. It’s full of charm, and there’s a great wine museum where you can enjoy a terrace tasting overlooking the vineyards. Read more about Sancerre

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