CroisiEurope has launched a selection of brand new fly/cruise packages taking in the enchanting world of the Alsace Christmas markets. Visit Strasbourg, AKA the capital of Christmas. Tour postcard-pretty villages where centuries-old traditions come alive amidst the picturesque Rhine and Alsace canals. And experience the magic of Christmas market cruises of Alsace – at a price that is seriously tempting and includes flights from the UK to Strasbourg or Basel.

Strasbourg Christmas markets & fairy tale pretty villages of Alsace cruises

Four-day: Christmas Markets in Alsace cruise round trip from Strasbourg. Visit the famous Strasbourg Christmas markets and illuminations, the famous Alsatian Wine Route and its picturesque villages. You’ll also get to tour the beautifully decorated streets of captivating Colmar.

Departures between 29th November and 20th December 2023 with fly from UK/cruise prices from £749 per person.

Four-day: A Bountiful Christmas in Alsace & The Black Forest cruise. A round trip from Strasbourg that takes in the famous Strasbourg markets and illuminations and the Christmas Market in Freiburg – one of the most beautiful in Germany. You’ll visit the Eco Museum of Alsace to learn how Alsatians celebrated Christmas in the past. And you’ll visit the beautifully-decorated streets of Colmar.

Departures between 4th and 17th December 2023 with fly from UK/cruise prices from £895 per person.

Four-day: Alsatian Christmas Traditions & Navigation Through the Heart of Strasbourg. Starting and ending in Strasbourg the trip includes excursions to delicious Alsatian Christmas bakeries, you can almost smell the aroma of spicy gingerbread just thinking about it! You’ll visit Christmas Markets in Eguisheim, voted favourite village of the French for its stunning pickled-in-the-past beauty. And you’ll visit the lovely village of Obernai and Christmassy Strasbourg. Plus you’ll be taken to the secret wine cellars in the Hospices de Strasbourg – the oldest wine store in France!

Departures on 7th and 11th December 2023 with fly from UK/cruise prices from £959 per person.

Four-day: Christmas in Alsace and take in as Show at the Royal Palace. This roundtrip cruise from Strasbourg includes the famous Strasbourg markets and illuminations. You’ll take a tour of the traditional Potter Villages in Soufflenheim and Betschdorf – perfect for unique Christmas gifts. And this cruise also includes an incredible musical performance at the famous Royal Palace Music Hall in Kirrwiller.

Departures between 2nd and 20th December 2023 with fly from UK/cruise prices from £795 per person.

Four-day: Alsatian Christmas Traditions & Navigation Through the Heart of Strasbourg. This hotel barge cruise round trip from Strasbourg follows the Alsatian Wine Route and visits the festive Alsatian capital and surrounding villages. Highlights include excursions to delicious Alsatian Christmas bakeries. It also includes the Christmas Markets in the lovely billages of Eguisheim and Obernai as well as Strasbourg. You’ll also visit the secret wine cellars in the Hospices de Strasbourg.

Departures on 7th, 11th and 15th December 2023 on the 22-guest MS Madeleine with fly from UK/cruise prices from £755 per person.

All prices include return flights from London Gatwick to either Strasbourg or Basel. Also included are private overseas transfers. The cruises include all meals, some excursions, port fees and repatriation insurance. You can find all the Christmas market, Christmas and New Year cruises here: croisieurope.co.uk/christmascruises

For reservations and further information call CroisiEurope on 01756 691269 or visit www.croisieurope.co.uk

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France is brimming with romantic villages and castles and with medieval gems that have somehow managed to withstand the passing of time. Janine Marsh joined a barge cruise from Sens in Burgundy to the heart of Paris and visited some of the most amazing and romantic sites of France en route…

Sens, Burgundy

I have to be honest, I didn’t know much (ok nothing) about Sens in Burgundy, but this was my starting point for a CroisiEurope cruise to Paris on a beautiful barge called the MS Deborah. Sens is incredibly just an hour from Paris by train, but oh so different from the capital. It’s a sleepy sort of place on the edge of the Yonne River, an important waterway since the middle ages when boats carried Burgundy wines and wood from the forests to Paris as the Yonne flows into the Seine.

Sens isn’t a big tourist attraction, but it is a pretty little town and is known in France for two things. First, its ancient cathedral which is even older than Notre-Dame in Paris, begun in 1130 AD. And second, it was from here that the warrior Brennus, chieftain of the Gallic Senon tribe, departed for Rome – and conquered it around 390 BC. The Gauls only left after being paid off.

Sens was an important religious centre since the 3rd century, and its Cathedral was the first to feature vaulting in its design and is considered to be the very first of the great Gothic Cathedrals in France. Opposite the Cathedral is a lovely covered market, and there is a museum next to the Cathedral which has an eclectic collection including the hat Napoleon Bonaparte wore at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. Apparently it was damaged by rain so he gave it to his hat makers in Paris to repair, but was exiled to St. Helena before he got it back.

Provins – a medieval wonder

From Sens we cruised to the medieval town of Provins. The boat holds just 22 passengers, and everything is inclusive from food to wine and spirits, plus all excursions. The Yonne is a working river, we pass pleasure ships and cargo barges and watch silos filling bulky holds with a backdrop of pretty villages, vineyards, and lovely houses that sit at the edge of the river. Wild birds swoop overhead and swans glide regally as we float gently and admire the glorious countryside, and sometimes we stop at locks and watch the action from the sun deck sipping the cocktail of the day.

The fabulous food and wine and the relaxed ambiance soothe your soul. By day three you won’t remember what day it I, and you won’t care either, it’s totally relaxing.

We docked at the lovely medieval town of Moret-sur-Loing, a designated “remarkable heritage site” and “Destination Impressionism”, a favourite of painter Alfred Sisley who lived here for 20 years. I was torn between taking a bike from the boat to cycle in the local countryside and discover the Chateau de By, once the home of painter Rosa Bonheur, but I went for a tour of Provins instead. All the guides for trips speak both French and English.

Provins in the department of Ile de France, is one of those places that you think simply can’t exist – but it does. This fortified town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, once under the rule of the powerful Counts of Champagne. Its cobbled, flower-filled streets and medieval buildings cover a huge area and there’s a lot to see from towers and turrets to ramparts, dungeons and underground tunnels. Once a hugely important commercial centre, goods came from around the world to be sold at one of the town’s famous grand fairs which lasted for weeks. There’s also a fabulous rose garden and shop/tea shop where everything comes up roses from sweets to ice cream!

Fontainebleau

Onwards we sail, past a pair of courting black swans and fishermen sitting patiently on pontoons, and yet, we’re only 55kms from Paris. Our next stop is the magnificent Chateau of Fontainebleau. If walls could talk then those at this enormous castle of some 1500 rooms would have plenty to say.

500 years older than Versailles. The original chapel was consecrated by Thomas Becket (whose secretary incidentally lived for several years in Sens), AKA Saint Thomas of Canterbury and Thomas à Becket. This is the only royal and imperial chateau in France that was continuously inhabited for eight centuries. From the 12^th Century, what was a royal hunting lodge in a vast forest was renovated, extended and embellished by various Kings, Queens Emperors and Empresses until it became the extraordinary, enormous castle you see before you.

It’s chock-a-block full of tapestries, frescoes, paintings, and carvings – opulently furnished, truly dazzling. Napoleon Bonaparte lorded it up at this chateau, saying it was his favourite above all others. He commissioned a team of builders and gilders to bling it up and make it more to his taste. And it was from that horseshoe shaped staircase that he bade farewell to his guides before going into exile (and leaving his hat behind).

Here King Francois I of France hung the Mona Lisa over his bathtub, Louis XIV fed the giant carp in the pond and Marie-Antoinette commissioned a gorgeous bed for her pretty boudoir, though she never laid her head there, she lost it in Paris instead. She did though recreate what she loved about this countryside Paris at her hamlet in Versailles.

Barbizon

For a complete contrast we next head to Barbizon, a little village on the edge of the Forest of Fontainebleau. Once a tiny hamlet (it was upgraded to village status in 1903), a colony of artists formed here in the early 1800s. There was then a tiny groceries shop and artists on their way from Paris to Fontainebleau would stop to buy supplies and noted how beautiful the scenery was. They started to linger longer, enraptured by the beauty of the countryside and rural life, and the canny shop owner converted the shop to an inn which became the Hotel Ganne. Then the artists stayed for even longer period.

More and more came, Rousseau, Millet, de Penna. They were the precursor that led to impressionism and Monet and Renoir themselves also visited – but they wanted bigger landscapes – cities and coasts. The artists left Barbizon. They also left their mark. The Hotel Ganne is now a museum, where the furniture and walls are covered with the etches and sketches of the artists who stayed here. Caricatures, saints, fairies, soldiers, whatever inspired them – they left a little of their work and soul behind.

The town is pickled in the past and very lovely. It continues to attract artists and the shops, bars and restaurants look like set pieces from your dream of a French village.

Vaux le Vicomte

Next up is the ravishing castle of Vaux-le-Vicomte, one of the largest privately owned residences in France with gorgeous gardens. Commissioned by Nicolas Fouquet, Louis XIV’s minister of finance it was almost completed in 1661 but Fouquet invited the boss to visit and that was his undoing. It was so beautiful that Louis was enraged with jealousy, and, egged on by other scheming ministers, he had Fouquet thrown into prison, where the unfortunate minister died in 1680. Louis had the furnishings, ornaments and even the curtains and plants put in his own castles and then hired the team who created Vaux-le-Vicomte, to work on Versailles. Moral – never upstage a king.

Paris

From here we cruised to Paris, the riverbank villages giving way to warehouses, apartment blocks, restaurants, and office buildings. The sounds of the city filter through the air coupled with the sounds of music as people tango and cha cha cha on the quaysides, people sit reading books, lazing in the sun and going about the life of a city. Meanwhile on the barge it remains tranquil. We pass under historic bridges and dock between the Statue of Liberty on the little man-made island called Île aux Cygnes, facing its big sister in New York, and the Eiffel Tower.

That night we had a gala dinner as the Eiffel Tower sparkled nearby and we bid farewell to new friends. We were joined by an accordionist and Edith Piaf tribute singer; the haunting notes carried across the water and drew a small crowd on the quayside as the sun set and metros passed over the Bir Hakeim Bridge – it was a perfect snapshot of Paris and the perfect way to end a most fabulous barge cruise in the world’s most popular city. I looked at my fellow bargers as the words “j’ai deux amours” ring out, it’s clear they are as enchanted as I am.

Slow tourism at its best

This is cruising at its slow tourism best. The boat holds just 22 passengers, and everything is inclusive from food to wine and spirits, plus all excursions. The Yonne is a working river, we passed pleasure ships and cargo barges and watched silos filling bulky holds with a backdrop of pretty villages, vineyards, and lovely houses that sit at the edge of the river. Wild birds swoop overhead, and swans glided regally as we floated gently and admired the glorious countryside, and sometimes we stopped at locks and watched the action from the sun deck, sipping the cocktail of the day. And the Seine river is a joy to travel with so much to see on either side as well as a sometimes surprising amount of wild life.

You can book this cruise and find out more about CrosiEurope’s cruises at croisieurope.co.uk

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The summer sun is lovely, but it’s in mid-winter, when those long dark nights really take their toll, that we need a getaway the most. An escape to Provence in off-season is perfect for enjoying great food, great wine, blue skies, gorgeous villages, historic towns, castles, culture and more. Your Private Provence’s Truffles, Wine and Provencal Cuisine Tour is the ultimate gourmet and cultural retreat we all need come February!

This 8-day excursion is exquisite, so many feel good activities are packed into this winter jaunt. Prepare yourself for gastronomic delights, including an artisanal truffle lunch with truffles freshly picked by your own hands. And moments of pure relaxation such as on a boat ride in the sunny fishing port of the Calanques national park. Visit markets and participate in cooking classes. Indulge in wine and olive oil tastings, all the while soaking up the extraordinary landscape of Provence.

If you feel like your winter is missing some much-needed beauty and adventure, then this fabulous Provence tour will thrill you.

Provencal gastronomy

Let’s start with the heart of the tour… What could be more tempting than sampling one of the most luxurious foods in the world – truffles.

Winter in Provence is the perfect time to indulge in the highly sought-after black truffle – the ‘black diamond of Provence’. France produces more truffles than any other country, and the legendary truffles of Provence make up 80% of the exports. The winter season is time for truffle-harvesting, and on this tour, you’ll join truffle farmer Nicolas who will take you through the orchards with his truffle-loving dog to hunt for fresh black truffles. Wrinkled and gnarly, these French truffles are the finest on the market, and you get to eat them for lunch! Pull up a chair at the farmhouse kitchen for a spread of delicious food, all prepared and flavoured to complement the freshly picked black truffles.

Get ready to learn about the terroir of the region. Truffles aren’t the only gourmet ingredient you will sample as your host Emily arranges wine tastings across the famous wine region of Côtes-du-Rhône AOC. Descend upon the wineries of historic Chateauneuf-du-Pape, gorgeous Gigondas and lovely Vacqueyras to taste the wines of the Rhône, famous for its production of full-bodied red wines. Not just wine tastings, you’ll also enjoy an olive oil workshop and sample the piquant flavours of the south of France.

Cooking classes

This tour isn’t named Provencal Cuisine for nothing as the gastronomy doesn’t end there. In the medieval city you’ll take a stroll with the chef through Les Halles in Avignon – the city’s market. You’ll select the best produce for the day’s lunch and then spend time in his kitchen to make a sumptuous meal. It’s an ideal opportunity to try your hand at making authentic Provencal cuisine.

The figurative and literal cherry on top of the cake is the patisserie workshop in beautiful Aix-en-Provence. Fling on an apron, wield a piping bag and a rolling pin, and create your own delicate French patisserie and croissants!

Stunning villages and a glorious landscape

The names of villages and cities have been thrown around, but let’s take a closer look at where you will visit and stay. First stop is Gordes, a picturesque medieval village perched on a hilltop. Officially one of the most beautiful villages in France, Gordes looks as though it has dropped out of a fairytale with its rambling buildings of creamy stone. At this time of the year, without crowds of tourists, its labyrinthine cobbled streets are begging to be explored and the views of the Luberon countryside are exquisite. For three nights, your home is in a luxury B&B, a 6-minute walk from the village. The incredible variety of landscapes that surround it are magnificent, simply crying out for country walks.

Travel from town to city in Emily’s comfortable Mercedes people carrier. After a stopover in Avignon to cook your Provencal lunch, it’s onwards to Aix-en-Provence. Here you will soak up the incredible history and wonderful sites. Known as ‘The City of a Thousand Fountains’, the Roman city is built on natural springs and its numerous fountains date back over several centuries. Your home from home will be a beautiful boutique hotel in the city’s centre. Perfect for strolls to explore your surroundings.

Cassis is one of the prettiest coastal villages in France. Here you’ll wander the pretty streets lined with boutiques and cafés. Then hop on a boat to explore the magnificent Calanques, soaring limestone cliffs, a haven of nature and outstanding natural beauty.

Without the summer crowds, the beautiful landscape is hauntingly empty and untouched. Winter in Provence is a break-taking sight.

Culture and Art

Art is a crucial part of the history of Aix-en-Provence. 19^th century artist Paul Cézanne had Aix-en-Provence in his blood and was deeply attached to his birthplace’s landscape. His muse was not, as it turns out, a person, in fact it was the mountain of Sainte-Victoire . Over the course of 30 years, the artist produced 44 oil paintings and 43 watercolours of this iconic spot. You’ll visit the mountain and surrounding countryside. You’ll also get to visit the Granet Museum in Aix which houses paintings by Picasso, Monet and Van Gogh, as well as Cezanne. And you’ll visit Cézanne’s own workshop, where he painted during the last years of his life. It’s an atmospheric place. It really feels as if the artist has just popped out to admire the wonderful views from his garden.

Your Private Provence’s Truffles, Wine and Provencal Cuisine Tour is exactly the winter break that will help you start the year in style and with sparkle! Book a spot on this small group tour for February 2024: yourprivateprovence.com/truffles-wine-cuisine

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For at least 100 years, the sophisticated and wealthy have descended upon the French Riviera, bringing with them sparkling glitz that is perfectly reflected in the sea’s azure waters. Thanks to this demand, the region has developed the reputation as Europe’s most glamourous summer destination. Visit Nice and you’ll find the summers balmy and the restaurants and bars plentiful. Beyond that though, the Cote d’Azur has so much more to offer, namely day trips by the tour operator Ophorus to explore the exquisite towns and villages, the wine tours, harbours, and historic monuments that have been admired by tourists over the centuries.

French Riviera Day Trips

Forget planning your own sightseeing excursions, plotting the route and organising transport and activities. Ophorus has you covered. This passionate tour operator is proudly in love with the French landscape and loves to share it with everyone! Your English-speaking Ophorus tour guide will collect you from your hotel and you’ll then travel in style in an air-conditioned minivan to villages, towns and cities along the coast and through the mountains. Each trip lasts either half a day or a full day, so once you’re dropped back at your hotel, you will have plenty of time to enjoy your evening!

So, if you’re visiting Nice or Aix-en-Provence this summer, here are some of the fantastic excursions Ophorus can offer you to discover the culture and history of the French Riviera.

French Riviera Day & Half-Day Trips from Nice and Aix-en Provence

Many villages across the south of France are difficult to access with public transport. But you don’t have to miss out. Take a day or half-day trip with your Ophorus guide and driver to discover the best of the French Riviera and secret places that are off the beaten track. Ophorus offers a great range of destinations for you to choose from.

Towns and Cities to Visit

Arles

Arty Arles is home to several major Roman buildings including the incredibly well preserved and still active 2000-year-old arena. Van Gogh found inspiration here, falling in love with the vibrant colours and painting many of the locations you can still see today, including the mausoleum where the artist stayed after cutting off his ear.

Cassis

Captivating Cassis is quintessential Provence on sea, a historic former fishing village of winding streets and glorious beaches. From here you also have access to the majestic calanques, white soaring cliffs that contrast with the turquoise waters – an area of outstanding natural beauty (a boat tour is included on a day tour with Ophorus).

Antibes

Just along the coast from Cannes, Antibes has the largest marina in the Mediterranean. This town has so many charms. Ogle the majestic mega-yachts alongside pretty fishing boats sitting in the harbour, Visit museums housing impressive collections of Picasso’s art. And sigh over the  crumbling historic forts and the red roofs of the town silhouetted against the soaring backdrop of the Alps.

Cannes

Cannes is famed for its international film festival. Yet it is also the perfect destination to visit gorgeous sandy beaches and elegant boutiques. The hotels are a sight to behold, a snapshot of the Riviera’s golden age. Your tour guide will take you around the picturesque old town and show you the glamorous venue for the annual film festival.

Monte Carlo

The jewel of the French Riviera is of course Monte Carlo. Enter Monaco, an independent principality, and step back in time to the roaring twenties of casinos and car racing. Monte Carlo’s history defines an era of glamour! And with Ophorus you will see it first-hand as you explore Casino de Monte-Carlo, the first casino built in the city. Visit St Nicholas Cathedral where Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier III are buried. And, best of all, you will be taken down to the famous Formula 1 racetracks where you can even go for a drive!

Picturesque Villages of Provence

Gordes

Gordes is officially one of the most beautiful villages in France. Its far-reaching views are something to behold thanks to its skyscraper position atop the mountains. Full of historical architecture, the white-stone buildings and fortresses are a snapshot of the medieval past of southern France. Gordes is close to many other gorgeous villages and a day trip will take you to some of the very best.

Saint Paul de Vence

The beauty of the south of France is captured in the village of Saint Paul de Vence, another historical landmark dating back to the 11^th century. Your Ophorus guide will take you beyond the town’s ramparts and along cobbled streets to explore the buildings, museums and art galleries. The panoramic landscape has long inspired famous artists who visited over the centuries. And it’s sure to inspire you too.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape

The south of France is famous for its wines and renowned amongst the wine making villages is Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The vineyards were first planted by the Romans and in the 14^th century the Popes of nearby Avignon chose this village to be the location for their summer palace. Discover the vineyards, the village, the history and culture and of course, the wines on a fabulous day trip.

Lavender fields

Take a half day Journey through the picturesque landscapes of Provence, where the air is filled with the aromatic essence of lavender. The Plateau de Valensole is the largest and most renowned lavender area in Provence. And as you ogle the purple landscape, indulge in numerous stops that allow you to immerse yourself in the beauty of lavender fields.

Shore Excursions

If you are visiting the Mediterranean by cruise ship and are on land for the day, Ophorus can whisk you away on a shore excursion to truly explore the region. Day trips from Nice, Cannes, St Tropez, Antibes and Monaco are all available. Each offers different destinations – beautiful villages and towns along the Cote d’Azur. Meet your guide at your cruise’s port. They will drive you along the coast and through the mountains for both private day and half-day trips. Go wine tasting in Provence. Stretch your legs on a walking tour around Antibes. Sniff the lavender fields. Walk in Van Gogh’s footsteps. Visit the perfume factories in Grasse. Discover southern France like a local.

Book an Authentic Day Trip in the French Riviera

There is no better way to explore the south of France than with a knowledgeable English-speaking guide taking the wheel, driving you through the magnificent panoramic scenery, and stopping off in some jaw-dropping locations. Soak up the beauty and culture of the Cote d’Azur and leave everything to your personal Ophorus guide – let them turn back time for you to explore the bygone eras of the French Riviera!

Ophorus have tours that visit all these dazzling destinations, find out more and book your French Riviera tour at: ophorus.com

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Janine Marsh explores lagoons and canals and falls head over heels for barge travel…

The French have a word for those who like to stroll without a goal other than to enjoy the adventure and unexpected joys and beauty encountered en route – to flâner. I’m not sure there is a word for wandering by barge, but I can tell you that the experience of travelling slowly on a CroisiEurope cruise on the Rhone Canal in the sun-kissed south of France is one you’ll never forget

During my trip I would step back in time some 2,500 years. Encounter extraordinary wildlife. Visit some of the most beautiful towns and villages I’ve ever seen. Make new friends, and explore the heritage, culture, gastronomy and wine of southern France. And I, like the rest of the guests on CroisiEurope’s MS Anne Marie barge, would be thoroughly spoiled, utterly pampered and totally enthralled by the entire experience.

Barging on an extraordinary waterway

Sète was the starting point for our journey. A sunny, vibrant city that sits between the Mediterranean Sea and the Etang de Thau, a biodiverse saltwater lagoon (you can read more about Sète and the local area on page 80). Fresh fish is sold along the quays and oyster tasting is de rigeur – washed down with a glass of local Picpoul, a very old French wine, made in the Languedoc for at least 400 years. There’s even a museum dedicated to oysters and those who fish for them, reached by a mulberry tree lined avenue that’s brimming with cafes and bistros, overlooking the sparkling, azure blue lagoon.

By the end of the first night on board, all the guests were chatting as if friends, rather than strangers who met just a few hours before. A mix of Swiss, American, British, Norwegian, Belgian and French, though everyone spoke English including the staff who are brilliant, consummate professionals. The bedrooms are comfy, charming and air conditioned. The food and wine is amazing; bikes are provided and there’s a hot tub on deck.

A channel carved from the sea

Our journey from Sète to Arles took us along the famous Canal du Rhône. This perfectly tranquil waterway runs through the middle of a lagoon. It looks like a channel carved from the sea. It’s extraordinary, beautiful, otherworldly even. At times we were followed by shoals of fish sparkling in the crystal clear blue green water and watched by flocks of pale pink flamingos. Cyclists passed by on the paths that run alongside the canal peppered with herbs. And plants that thrive in the salty sea air and hot sun whose scent carries onto the deck.

Oysters cling to the walls and seabirds float on the calm surface waiting for fish to pop up. Relaxing on deck with a book, watching the wildlife, listening to the gentle lapping of the water and stopping at some of the most beautiful and fascinating places in southern France – well it doesn’t get much better.

Brutal but brilliant

At Palavas-les-Flots we joined holiday makers and locals for a dip in the Med. It’s an unusual town, established as a customs fort and a fishing village late in the 18th century. Its fortunes changed in the 1950s when President Charles de Gaulle decreed holidays should be available for all people in France. Then he had several purpose-built resorts created along the south coast – including here.

“Brutalism” is what they call the architectural style of the concrete apartment blocks that were rather hurriedly slung up. But no one cares, you don’t come here to sit indoors. The silky soft sandy beaches are endless, and the water is warm. A woman walked along the beach selling sticky, sweet donuts like something out of a 1960s French film and I half expected Brigitte Bardot to come trotting along.

Sunbathers were stretched out in rows. One of the Norwegian ladies from the barge whispered to me “I’m an undertaker and looking at all these bodies lying on the beach makes me want to tie a label to their toes” which made all of us laugh out loud. Old folk were sat sensibly under colourful parasols. The sea was full of people swimming and splashing. Seagulls hovered overhead ready to swoop on anything that looked like it might taste good. Little kids made sandcastles. It is easy to see why this place is popular despite the brutalist blocks.

The Camargue

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is the capital of the Camargue. It’s the highest point in the area at just 3m above sea level. 80% of the land is less than 1m above sea level and so lots of dikes and dams have been built to prevent flooding and the salt water of the Rhône flows into the canals that cross the land. It’s a fertile area. Rice is grown in the marshy lands which helps to combat the salinity in the soil. This in turn helps the vineyards to flourish. Everywhere there are vast fields of sunflowers, grain and vegetables.

The town of Saintes-Maries is all about the yellow-stone church in the centre in which resides a famous statue. Legend has it that some disciples of Jesus, including Mary Jacobi and Mary Salome and a servant called Sarah, fled Palestine in a boat and landed on the beach here. They are said to have been buried in the crypt. The town has since become a place of pilgrimage for gypsies whose patron saint is Sarah. The statue of her in the crypt is covered in sparkly cloaks placed there by worshippers. It’s a festive and very colourful place.

We stopped off at a ranch nearby to meet some of the famous black bulls and white horses of the Camargue and the guardians, like French cowboys and cowgirls, who herd them. Read more about the Camargue here. Along the drive, flamingos, which live here year-round, were a common sight paddling in the shallow water of canals that run beside the roads. It’s a sight that lifts your soul.

A bucket list of southern France

This trip ticked off several bucket list destinations for me. The first being Aigues-Mortes. We moored up under the shade of a tree, a stone’s throw from the great arched entrance to the walled city. Medieval Aigues-Mortes is surrounded by 11m high ramparts and dominated by the 33m high Tour de Constance. From the tower you can spot Nimes – 40 km away. The town is criss crossed by winding cobbled streets lined with boutiques, restaurants and ancient houses.

It was built in 1240 on the orders of Louis IX. A strange choice you might think since its name literally translates to “dead waters”, derived from the tidal salt flats on which the town sits. But it was an ideal position for trade in the south of France. It’s a perfectly preserved, pickled in the past Provençal town, with 10 gates and 14 towers. And in its heyday, it was a major port, though it’s now marooned three miles from the sea.

The flower-filled streets spread out around a central plane tree filled square. In the middle is a statue of King Louis atop a fountain in which children play. Not only is it a beautiful little town, it’s on the edge of the famous pink salt lakes which feature the largest colony of flamingos in Europe.

An extraordinary pink sea

We hopped aboard a little tourist train for a guided tour of the lakes and the salt museum. The sight of miles and miles of pink sea and in the background, shimmering like a mirage, the walled town of Aigues Mortes is astounding. You almost feel as if you’re on another planet. Mountains of salt are harvested here, just as it has been since the days of antiquity.

It’s a tall order to live up to that visit. But Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert, another bucket lister for me, stepped up to the plate. Officially one of the prettiest villages in France, it is tranquil even in peak summer months as it’s rather off the beaten track. Read more about Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert here.

Dazzling Arles

And finally, another bucket list destination – Arles. The ancient city is nothing short of magnificent. Romans remains, ancient churches, winding cobbled streets, art galleries, street theatre, incredible restaurants. Van Gogh’s vision of Arles is evident. The scenes he painted here including Café Terrace at Night and Starry Night Over the Rhône, are marked with information boards in the town. And the hospital where he was admitted after cutting off his ear is now a lively and bustling cultural hub, lined with small boutiques and restaurants set around a colourful inner courtyard. I’d been told that everyone who sees Arles falls in love with it – and I did too.

(Read more about Arles here)

On our last night, as the sun set over Arles, its golden rays sparkling on the water, a singer/guitarist arrived to perform for us on deck. His voice carried across the water and passers-by stopped to sit and listen to the impromptu concert. I couldn’t help but feel what a privilege it was to be there. It was more than a holiday. I made friends. Explored the most beautiful corners of France. And was thoroughly spoiled by Hans, the super host, and his daily cocktails, plus the chef’s fabulous meals.

Find out more and book your trip at: crosieurope.co.uk

This article was first published in The Good Life France Magazine

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

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Take a memorably mouth-watering and captivating cultural tour of the south of France with four-time James Beard Foundation award-winning cookbook author Cheryl Alters Jamison.

The tour will take place in gorgeous Occitanie, formerly known as Languedoc-Roussillon, one of the most beautiful areas of France, as well as the largest wine-producing. You will be based in the enchanting coastal town of Marseillan on the edge of the Mediterranean near sun-kissed Montpellier. And you’ll make memories to cherish forever.

Like a house party

Excited about food – and cooking it? Half the pleasure of eating is preparing new dishes and learning how to use local ingredients. During the week, Cheryl oversees three workshops suitable for every level of culinary skill, where everyone cooks together to create the evening’s dinner from area specialties. It’s like a house party.

You’ll be staying in one location, a family-owned demeure, a private inn nestled in the village’s historical center. No unpacking and packing, no moving about settling into different hotels, just one charming, inviting and welcoming home from home in southern France.

Other highlights of the trip are

The medieval fortified citadel of Carcassonne, a UNESCO heritage site
Pont du Gard, an architectural wonder and another UNESCO heritage site.
Oyster farm tour in catamaran and ocean-side lunch
Wine tasting and garden tour at a Renaissance château
Cocktail workshop at world-renowned Nouilly Prat
Caviar tasting at a sustainable hatchery
Roquefort cheese caves tour
Fish market in the canaled city of Sète
A Montpellier kitchenware shop dating back to 1867
Camargue safari to see black bulls, white horses, and pink flamingos
Stunning town of Uzès on market day

Your hosts

Cheryl made her first trip to France nearly five decades ago whilst at college. Since then, she has spent as much time as she could in France including a decade of leading culinary tours to Dordogne. Her twenty cookbooks, many written with her late husband Bill – including Smoke & Spice, American Home Cooking, and The Big Book of Outdoor Cooking & Entertaining – have been widely recognized as standard setters and have sold some 2 million copies. Her latest book (Summer, 2023) Global Smoke will be published in Summer 2023.  She’s appeared numerous times on TV, including the Food Network and NBC’s Today Show. And she hosts a weekly food radio show and podcast. Cheryl lives just outside of Santa Fe, New Mexico with a small flock of hens all of whom have outsize personalities.

Wanting to share her love of France’s South with other food and wine obsessed travelers once again, Cheryl has paired up with Nancy McGee of Absolutely Southern France. Born and raised bilingual in the province of Quebec, Nancy seized a work opportunity for a one-year trip to the south of France after graduating from university. It led to a love story that has lasted ever since.

Nancy has owned Absolutely Southern France Travels for more than a dozen years and been a resident of southern France for twice as long. With her in-depth knowledge of the region, her personalized experiences for small groups create the kinds of trips that make lifetime memories.

The partnership between Nancy and Cheryl is a match made in heaven. They love to travel together and love to share their passion for culture, food, wine, and travel. Their culinary and cultural tours of the south of France are legendary.

An unforgettable cultural and culinary tour of France

‘Why do women travel together? 82% mention cultural experiences, 69% the beauty of the destination, and 58% the country’s reputation’ says Nancy. ‘Our Excited about Food tour to the south of France has it all!’

An incredible gastronomic and cultural tour that has been designed for a small group of women with maximum 10 participants.

Register now using the code THE GOOD LIFE to receive a 150-euro discount. If you bring along a friend, sister, mother, or daughter, you’ll be entitled to another 150 euros off (valid to May 15).

Dates: September 2 – 10, 2023
Duration: 9 days / 8 nights

For full tour details pop to: absolutelysouthernfrance.com. To grab your spot, email nancy @ absolutelysouthernfrance.com

The post Captivating Cultural & Culinary South of France Tour appeared first on The Good Life France.

One of the best ways to visit the majestic castles, verdant vineyards, pretty little villages, historic towns and gorgeous gardens of the UNESCO-listed Loire Valley is by bike. Loire Brakes guided tours offer a brilliant, relaxing slow travel experience (e-bikes provided) for those who want to discover real France. Immerse yourself in the culture and lifestyle of France. Enjoy superb wines and fabulous gastronomy. Stay in a fabulously renovated charming farmhouse, and discover the very best of the Loire Valley with local guides Denise and Kevin.

Explore the Loire Valley by e-bike

This is not one of those cycling holidays where you’ll slog it out. This is a holiday where you can relax and really enjoy the ride at your own pace. It doesn’t matter if you haven’t been on a bike in years. You don’t need to worry about being out of practice. E-bikes give you all the benefits and pleasure of cycling but take the hard work out, and put the fun into a cycling tour.

Explore the French Valley of the Kings, a land of majestic Chateaux. A landscape that’s verdant with luscious vineyards, peppered with historic towns and villages and countless historic treasures. You’ll discover the history and culture of the region as you go. And you’ll visit off the beaten track parts of the Loire Valley that most visitors miss.

Depending on which tour you choose, you’ll visit the royal fortress of Chinon and the stunningly pretty historic town that lies at its feet. Wander the gorgeous gardens of Villandry. Visit the town and castle of Langeais, the fairy tale castle of Ussé and the exquisite chateau Azay le Rideau. Discover the romantic allure of the Loire Valley and visit the homes of the great sculptor Rodin and his Camille, and of Edward and Mrs Simpson. Explore lovely Saumur, home to a majestic castle and cobbled streets lined with ancient buildings. And the royal Abbey of Fontevraud, an incredibly atmospheric place with an equally incredible history.

And you’ll stay in a beautifully renovated Loire country house, where you can take a dip in the pool and relax with a glass of local wine in the gorgeous gardens.

A taste of the Loire Valley

You’ll also do wine tastings of the finest wines the Loire Valley can offer with tours at superb vineyards. And there are visits to cheesemakers where you can taste the local favourites like Sainte Maure de Touraine. Plus you’ll get to visit some of the Loire Valley’s most vibrant markets. Enjoy delicious picnics that present the finest specialities – traditional rillettes and paté washed down with one of the region’s famous wines like Chinon. And maybe top it off with some poires tapées (pressed pears). Or an apple tart made with red wine jam – a speciality of Chinon. You’ll be stopping off at the most incredible locations for your picnic break, and you’ll dine at authentic, hand-picked restaurants that offer a true taste of the Loire Valley.

Slow travel in the Loire Valley

The Loire Valley is criss crossed by cycling trails, velo routes on quiet country roads and green routes which makes for tranquil riding. And many routes lead you straight to the doorsteps of the beautiful castles. But you won’t be cycling all day, every day. 4-wheeled transport is also included as some sites in the Loire Valley are easier to get to that way. You’ll be chauffeured so that you can relax and enjoy the visit – and the wine tastings – without worrying.

Off the beaten track in the Loire Valley

The Loire Valley holds over 1,000 chateaux, is known as the ‘Cradle of the French Language’, has some of the country’s best wines and has a wealth of historic towns that could send anyone into their own fairy tale. And it has plenty of secrets too. You’ll get to explore some of them including a fascinating troglodyte village. You’ll get to play Boules de Fort, a boules game unique to the Loire Valley (and huge fun). And you’ll enjoy a traditional wooden, flat-bottomed boat ride along the river Vienne.

Loire Brakes go the extra mile to make your tour special, memorable and unique.

Book your unforgettable slow travel cycling discovery in the Loire Valley at: loirebrakes.com

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France has a long and rich history with a past that is full of legends and tales. Some are so old and lost in the mists of time that it’s often impossible to confirm fact from fiction. One of the most enduring tales of southern France involves the story of Mary Magdalene, a disciple of Jesus who it is said took refuge in France after his death. A unique tour seeks to discover more about the saint whilst also discovering the most beautiful parts of southern France…

The spiritual side of the south of France

Long, long ago stories began to circulate in France and beyond that following the death of Jesus, his disciples dispersed. Some said that France became a haven for some of them. The details have been lost in time. But generally the legend is that three women named Mary, or sometimes two women named Mary, along with Martha, Lazarus and a servant named Sarah had been set adrift in an open boat from Palestine after Christ’s death. They arrived in the south of France and landed either at Marseille or Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. The Marys were said to be Mary Magdalene, Mary Salome and Mary Jacobi.

The Divine Destination Collection tours aim to create life-changing travel adventures, combined with wellness, luxury accommodation, great food and wine, plus uncover the magic and spirituality of a destination. They run tours all over the world. And in June 2023 they will head to the south of France to follow the path of Mary Magdalene’s journey. She became a much-revered saint in France with many churches dedicated to her. The unique trip isn’t about Mary Magdalene as a religious figure but as an archetype of the divine feminine. And as you explore her story, you’ll also be immersed in the beauty of France.

Carcassonne

The journey starts in UNESCO-listed Carcassonne where you’ll stay at the famed Hotel de la Cité. The ground floor of the hotel is a listed historic monument. If you leaf through the guest book you’ll find the signatures of Winston Churchill, Princess Grace of Monaco and Colette the great French writer. The hotel is seriously special and very luxurious. As you sip the local sparkling wine on the terrace of the hotel and watch the sun set over the citadel while soaking up the stunning views, it’s a goosebump, memorable moment as you learn about the mysteries and history of this ancient place.

Carcassonne is surrounded by beautiful villages and tiny hamlets like Rennes-le-Chateau and Alet-les-Bains, Rennes-les-Baines and Cathar Castles. So many of the local sites are off the beaten track, authentic and missed by most visitors. You’ll visit private gardens, enjoy a live piano recital at a castle and get to learn more about Mary Magdalene and her journey in the area.

Aix-en-Provence

Aix, as the locals call it, is one of those places that steals your heart. It is an elegantly cultured city, mellow and laid back, sun-kissed and sensuous. One of its most beautiful hotels is the 18^th century mansion, 5* Le Pigonnet which has gorgeous gardens with 20 fountains, a grand pool, and glorious rooms – fit for nobility, and your second home on this tour. It’s a stone’s throw from the famous and picturesque Cours Mirabeau main thoroughfare which splits the city into two halves. On one side of this Champs-Elysées of southern France is the Renaissance district. One the other side is the Medieval district. Both areas are home to streets lined with glorious mansions, café terraces, galleries and boutiques. On Saturdays a lively market spreads along the Cours Mirabeau, tempting you to fill your case with souvenirs.

This is the former home of artist Cezanne. Traces of him are everywhere, from the museums to his former atelier a short walk from the city centre. Smocks, hats and still-life props, recognisable from his paintings, clutter the place where Cézanne captured his obsession with Mont Sainte-Victoire mountain on canvas, and completed his last Grandes Baigneuses.

Saint-Maximin-la-Saint-Baume

From Aix it’s a short journey to Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume and the Basilica of Saint Mary Magdalene. It’s said that she was buried here in the 1^st century though the earliest part of the church, the crypt dates to the 4^th century and it is famous for being said to hold the skull of Mary. A grotto nearby is where the saint is said to have meditated. Surrounded by glorious countryside, castles, monasteries and vineyards, this is a very special, not well-known part of southern France.

Along the route you’ll have the chance to meet “Mary experts”, trace the path of Mary Magdalene or simply relax and enjoy this luxurious adventure.

From the ancient marble-paved streets of the Bastide of Saint-Louis, the lower town of Carcassonne, and the upper towns cobbled streets, to the winding lanes of Aix, the countryside of southern France, it’s monuments, castles and churches, its spiritual places, this is a unique tour that reveals a little-known and extraordinary side to France. This small group tour (limited to 22 maximum) will be hosted by Deb Niven and Allison Frame who have decades of travel industry experience between them. You’ll enjoy fine dining, private unique venues, visits to wineries and the finest hotels.

Find out more about this unique and seriously special tour (suitable for couples, friends, solo) at: divinedestinationcollection.com

The post A tour of the spiritual side of the south of France appeared first on The Good Life France.

Bordeaux is the capital of the Gironde department which borders the Dordogne department in the southwest of France. Both areas are very different from each other though they are so close that it’s easy to visit the best of each of them. Bordeaux city is vibrant, bustling, history and arty. Famous for its fabulous restaurants, museums, galleries and wine bars. UNESCO-listed for its architecture and surrounded by vineyards. One of the most beautiful cities of France.

The Dordogne Valley is known for its gastronomy and for the the authentic beauty of its countryside and ancient villages, like Sarlat and Rocamadour.

Julia Girard-Gervois of TripUSAFrance who run tours that combine both areas, shares some of her favourite places in Bordeaux and Dordogne.

Incredible art in a WW2 U-boat base in Bordeaux

Experience a unique art display inside a former WW2 U-boat base in Bordeaux… Les Bassins des Lumières is an art center in a former U-boat base. Explore massive digital displays dedicated to the most influential artists of all time, as well as contemporary art.

The Germans built the former military facility during WW2 from 1941 onwards. It was only ever used as a training base for German submarines and never saw active combat action. It’s one of the few U-boat bases constructed on land rather than floating, like most others were.

Connected to Garonne River in Bordeaux, France, this unique, immersive experience has become one of the city’s most in-demand attractions.

Get lost in Sarlat on Market Day

Sarlat is a stunning little medieval town in the Dordogne region of France. Make sure to visit Sarlat on Saturday, market day. The large market is considered one of the most captivating markets in France. The architecture, colourful market stalls, friendly people, and mouth-watering food make it a unique experience.

Sarlat market is the perfect place to buy your lunch, with delicious local specialties like truffles, foie gras, and local wines. You’ll find a wide variety of local produce, fresh vegetables, and delicious cheeses.

A guided tour reveals the town’s history, which adds charm to its cobblestone streets and old buildings. We’re pretty sure you’ll like Sarlat so much that you’ll want to come back again and again.

Feel like royalty at the summit of Beynac’s Castle

A visit to Beynac Castle, also in the Dordogne valley, is an absolute must. Sitting atop a rocky outcrop, it’s an impressive sight which offers breath-taking views of the surrounding countryside.

The 12^th century castle has grand halls, chambers and inner courtyards. The architecture is beautifully preserved and offers a unique glimpse into medieval life. Climb the winding staircase up to the summit and take in the magnificent views from the battlements.

Dordogne is famed for the sheer number of castles that grace the region, earning it the nickname: “Land of 1001 Castles.” It’s heaven for history buffs and architecture lovers. Take a journey back in time and explore hundreds of unique castles, each with a remarkable story and captivating charm such as the Chatea de Castelnaud, and Château des Milandes.

Taste amazing wine – in the wine capital of the world

Bordeaux has earned an international reputation as the premier destination for wine, with the most sumptuous varieties found within its borders. It’s a fantastic destination for those interested in discovering more about wine. There are numerous wineries and vineyards offer tours, tastings, and educational experiences. Wine regions like Medoc and Saint Emilion offer plenty of opportunities to learn about the region’s winemaking history.

And if you don’t wish to make a trip to the countryside wineries there are countless wine bars in town serving quality wine by the glass such. Try Le Bar a Vin, Le Vertige, Aux 4 Coins du Vin or Le Métropolitain – just a few of the amazing wine bars available.

Not to be missed in Bordeaux is La Cité du Vin. In 2017 National Geographic ranked it 7th best museum in the world! La Cité du Vin is a unique facility dedicated to wine as a living heritage. An interactive and sensory experience that will take you on a journey around the world, through the ages, in all cultures.

The architecture of the 30,000 sq feet museum is a journey in itself. With a belvedere bar on the 8th floor (a glass of wine is included in your ticket!) with 360 views of Bordeaux and the Garonne river. And there’s a panoramic restaurant on site you could easily spend all day at La Cite du Vin.

Explore sensational Saint-Emilion

Discover the mysterious underground galleries, catacombs and monolithic church of St Emilion…

While in Bordeaux, make time to visit nearby St Emilion. This is the perfect village for a meal out or a glass of wine at one of the many welcoming bars and restaurants in town.

The entire town and its surroundings has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its rich history. As you wander the cobblestoned village, you’ll see beautiful stone arches and houses with wooden shutters and flower boxes in the windows. Every turn brings something new to explore.

But what you might not know about St Emilion is that it has some very mysterious underground constructions. Accessible only with a guide, you can explore four historical monuments. The hermitage of Émilion is said to have been carved out by monk Emilion in 8AD. The 13th century Trinity Chapel and its medieval paintings. The catacombs and the underground monolith church. This is one of the largest monolithic churches of Europe. Carved out of a single rock it is an amazing feat of engineering and architecture.

The village also hides an intensive network of over 100 miles of tunnels and caves besides the surface. Since the 9th century man has extracted the precious limestone used to build St Emilion itself as well as nearby towns like Libourne or Bordeaux. Over-extraction through galleries built over four levels below the vineyards, resulted an order to end mining in the 19^th century.

Once used by the French resistance or local kids riding their bikes, today, most of these dark and humid tunnels are gated and locked. Now they protect the valuable wine stored by winemakers. A few wineries include a visit down in the galleries, along with the wine tour. A must do!

Indulge in heavenly French food

France is known worldwide for its gastronomy, and Bordeaux does a fantastic job at confirming this fact.

You’ll find every type of eaterie from high end restaurants such as La Tour d’Argent or Le Quatrième Mur to hole-in-the-wall restaurants offering local specialties and regional delicacies. You’ll also find plenty of bakeries, patisseries, and chocolateries to satisfy your sweet tooth.

Neighbouring Dordogne – also called Perigord – is famous for its hearty cuisine. Périgord’s gastronomic delights have long been associated with peasant cuisine. It typically features simple regional ingredients: Périgord truffles, wild mushrooms, strawberries, walnuts, and chestnuts. Recipes are traditional, rustic and authentic. Add duck, cheese and wine for a perfect traditional Perigord meal!

Gaze at prehistoric drawings in Lascaux IV

Lascaux IV is an amazing archaeological site in the Vézère Valley, home to some of the most famous prehistoric drawings in the world. The original site, Lascaux I, was discovered in 1940. It is now closed to the public due to the rapid deterioration of the art. Multiple replicas have been created since, but the final and most complete version of the reproduction, Lascaux IV, which opened in 2016, is undoubtedly a work of art in itself.

The Vezere valley, which stretches from Montignac to Les Eyzies, is filled with over 200 Paleolithic sites. It’s a beautiful and peaceful area with many outdoors activities such as hiking, biking, and canoeing.

Shop at Rue Sainte-Catherine, the longest pedestrian shopping street in Europe

Located in the center of Bordeaux, Rue Sainte-Catherine is said to be the longest pedestrianised street in the whole of Europe! Spanning over two kilometers, it hosts some 500 shops and boutiques. You can find everything from designer clothing stores to souvenir shops on this lively street.

Another spot not to be missed in Bordeaux is Le Passage Sargent, a 19th-century covered passage filled with small shops and cafés. It’s an excellent spot to get away from the bustling streets and to discover some one-of-a-kind products.

Rue Notre Dame, in the Chartron district, steps away from downtown, is also great for shopping. Independent boutiques and vintage stores abound alongside cafés and restaurants. The perfect little French village neighborhood inside the big metropole.

Bordeaux, with its ‘small Paris’ vibes, is the perfect place to enjoy the city life for a few days after relaxing in the magical countryside.

Bird’s eye view of the Dordogne Valley from a hot air balloon

There is no better way to explore Dordogne than from a hot air balloon. Soar high above the lush green landscape, taking in the stunning views of the chateaux, villages, and rivers.

Gently glide across the valley and enjoy the peace and tranquillity. The pilots will point out interesting sights and share stories about the area as you take in the breath-taking views.
At the end of your flight, enjoy a Champagne toast to celebrate your adventure, an unforgettable experience.

Go on a romantic sunset walk in Bordeaux at night

The quays of Bordeaux are the perfect place to go on a romantic walk at night. As the sun sets, the city takes on a different atmosphere. Its cobblestone streets and old buildings take on a golden hue. Stroll along the riverbank and admire the stunning views of the illuminated bridges and boats gliding past.

Stop for a glass of wine or a bite at one of the many cafes and restaurants dotted along the quayside. The atmosphere is magical and the perfect place to spend quality time.

Bonus: Walk in the steps of pilgrims in Rocamadour

The small village of Rocamadour, perched high on a cliff in the Dordogne Valley attracts many pilgrims. As you walk through the cobblestone streets and pass the ancient churches, you can feel the history and spiritual atmosphere preserved here for centuries.

It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the 3rd most visited place in France after the Eiffel Tower and Le Mont St Michel.

Neighbours Bordeaux and Dordogne offer thrilling, unique, historic, gastronomic and experiences – simply irresistible.

Find out more about TripUSAFrance’s small group, week-long, fabulous Bordeaux-Dordogne tours

The post The best of Bordeaux and Dordogne’s highlights appeared first on The Good Life France.

Explore Bordeaux – from the city to the vineyards by boat, it’s a great way to see not just the main sites, but off the beaten track places…

Bordeaux is a truly great city – rich in history, architecture, culture and gastronomy. Beyond the city, the region is famous for its wines and vineyards, many of which lie along the rivers which made Bordeaux great. The half-moon sweep of the river Garonne in the city made for an ideal port and the Romans build a great trading centre here. Centuries later, the English made it a central trading port, shipping out vast quantities of wood, wool and local wines.

Bordeaux City

In the mid 1700s, the governor of Bordeaux, the Marquis de Tourny did for Bordeaux what Haussmann was later to do for Paris – he regenerated the city. He knocked down the crumbling medieval houses and commissioned elegant buildings that faced the river and that area is now the largest urban UNESCO-listed world heritage site, encompassing some 1810 hectares. The Port of the Moon has been regenerated and the former warehouses transformed into shops, bars and restaurants. The quaysides are busy with runners, cyclists and walkers drawn to admire the Miroir d’Eau, a water sculpture in front of the impressive Place de la Bourse.

Bordeaux has continued to evolve and develop. The city is a mix of old and new, glamour and avant-garde, wine and water. There are futuristic trams, stellar restaurants, wine bars and an ever growing number of museums and art venues. For visitors to Bordeaux there is so much to see and do, it’s hard to know where to turn.

Bordeaux for wine lovers

Push the boat out and take a river cruise to see more of Bordeaux and discover some of the finest vineyards in existence.

CroisiEurope are a French family-owned cruise company who run 5, 6 and 7 day river cruises from Bordeaux’s beautifully named Port of the Moon, and back. Cruise along the Garonne, the Dordogne and the Gironde, Europe’s largest estuary. You’ll pass fishing huts on stilts, birds of prey floating on the breeze, castles and vineyards that sweep down to the water. The ship docks at riverside towns where you can explore the best of the region.

You’ll enjoy wine tastings on board and in renowned wine domaines (and no worries about being a designated driver). You’ll visit castles and some of the region’s most historic and beautiful towns. And you’ll be spoiled rotten with fabulous 3 and 4-course meals created by expert chefs using the best local and seasonal produce.

I joined the 5-day cruise to get to know some of the highlights of the city and the region…

Highlights of a Bordeaux cruise

In the mornings the ship sails. In the afternoons there are excellent excursions (all guides speak English and French, as do all staff on the ship). It’s a laidback cruise at a relaxed pace. And you’ll get to visit some of the most exquisite parts of Bordeaux, many of them off the beaten track, which  most visitors miss.

You’re taken on a tour the vineyards of Bordeaux. It’s a superb way to explore the stunning landscape punctuated by chateaux, mansions, and pretty villages. You’ll enjoy wine tastings at a famous domaine in the Medoc. And there’s a stop at the chateau de Beychevelle where rumour has it they cut the grass with scissors. It’s certainly pristine in a sort of Zen meets French parterre way. Ogling the gorgeous 18^th century mansion and snooping in the garden is very satisfying! It was once the home of the Duc d’Eperon, Grand admiral of France. Ships passing the estate would dip their sails in salute: “baisse-voile”, which became Beychevelle.

Blaye

The  UNESCO-listed Vauban built Citadel of Blaye is a big surprise. It’s almost a secret and yet this mini-Carcassonne is extraordinarily beautiful and well-preserved. It dominates the pretty town below and has its own vineyards, shops and restaurants. But it’s the gorgeous historic buildings that steal the show. The guided tour is a show stopper.

Bourg

In Bourg, wine is stored beneath the city in a maze of caves. It was once a busy port town but is now a sleepy place with wonderful views from the top of the town. If you’re feeling fit you can climb the 500 steps of the King’s staircase. It was named for Louis XIV who stayed in the upper town as a child. Apparently he liked to sneak down the stairs to the old town below says the guide. It’s one of the things that makes the cruise so good, the expertise of local guides telling anecdotes and snippets of history that make the past come to life.

Saint-Émilion

Saint-Émilion is also on the itinerary. When you go to this most famous wine village, you have to do a wine tasting – it’s practically the law! First at a chateau and then in the picturesque, cobbled village of Saint-Émilion. The vineyards (as well as 8 municipalities of Saint-Émilion) were the first to be listed by UNESCO as a world heritage site as ‘a remarkable example of a historic wine-growing landscape which has survived intact’

You’ll also spend a whole day Bordeaux, with a guided tour or free time. It’s a really fabulous way to get to know both the city and the surrounding area. Find out more about CroisiEurope’s Bordeaux cruises: Croisieuroperivercruises.co.uk There’s also a 5-day Christmas and a 5-day New Year cruise of Bordeaux

Bordeaux for culture lovers

CroisiEurope’s Bordeaux cruise includes a guided tour or free day in Bordeaux. There are some 21 museums and art galleries with themes including history, architecture and fine arts. One of the most well-known is the extraordinary Cité du Vin – dedicated to wine and housed in swirly topped building that resembles wine being poured in a glass.

The latest venue to open is the absolutely stunning Bassins des Lumières. This is the largest digital art centre in the world. It’s housed in a Former German submarine base built from 1940-1943 to house multiple U-boats and submersibles. This vast concrete space, constructed from 600,000 cubic metres of concrete, now hosts extraordinary and spectacular immersive exhibitions.

More on what to see in Bordeaux

This is a city for walking and admiring. Explore the old town with its many wonderful sites including the Grosse Cloche, 13^th century gate and the stunnning  Place du Parlement created in 1754 by Tourny. Don’t miss the Porte Cailhau constructed in the late 1490s. And of course the masterpiece of the neo-classic rebuild, the Grand-Theatre. The grand staircase was the model for the Opera Garnier in Paris. I highly recommend you add on a couple of days to see more of the city!

Bordeaux for food lovers

Darwin: Cross to the right bank to experience Darwin. A former military barracks turned eco-rehabilitated area with street art, performances and great places to eat.

Locals love: Le Bordeaux restaurant is popular not just with visitors but with locals, it’s part of the city’s history in its oh-so-memorable location opposite the Grand-Theatre. The Bordelais (people of Bordeaux) grow up knowing this restaurant, celebrating good times with dishes made to perfection…

More on where to eat out in Bordeaux

Find details of all Croisieurope’s brilliant cruises in France: croisieurope.co.uk

Bucket list Hotel Bordeaux

InterContinental Bordeaux – Le Grand Hotel Presides over Place de la Comedie. It’s plush and luxurious with a big dollop of old school glamour and a glorious, theatrical tearoom. Indulge in the spa which has one of the most unusual and stunning pools I’ve ever seen. Like swimming in your front room – complete with curtains and paintings! There’s a Michelin Starred Gordon Ramsay restaurant, Le Pressoir d’Argent, named after a pure silver lobster press created by renowned Maison Christofle. They actually use it in the restaurant if you order lobster. And you can enjoy a glass of Bordeaux’s finest wines on the stunning roof top bar overlooking the famous opera house. bordeaux.intercontinental.com

Combined with a cruise on the river to tour the best of Bordeaux – it’s an unbeatable visit to this sunny, historic city.

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