“Fashions fade, style is eternal” Yves Saint Laurent

At the internationally renowned Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais, northern France, a major exhibition dedicated to the late great French couturier Yves Saint Laurent is eye-poppingly fabulous. Transparences, the name of the exhibition, is an absolute must-see, especially for fashion fans, and a fascinating and unique look at the work of one of the fashion world’s greatest designers.

A little bit of French fashion history

The French have been famous for dressing well for centuries. As long ago as the 17th century – not long after the Mayflower carried pilgrims to North America and Isaac Newton published one of his most important scientific works Philosophiae Naturalis Principia Mathematica (1687) – the French were turning fashion into an industry.

The modern fashion show dates to the Paris in the 1860s, though it was a pioneering Englishman, fashion designer Charles Frederick Worth, who kicked it things off by using live models instead of mannequins to present his creations. 130 years later, on July 12, 1998, the great French designer Yves Saint Laurent created a monumental runway show at the Stade de France ahead of the Football World Cup final between France and Brazil. Lasting 15 minutes, the event involved 300 models, 900 backstage hands and 4,000 stadium staff. It was televised live to about 1.7 billion people.

Yves Saint-Laurent was a showman and fashion visionary whose legacy lives on.

Yves Saint Laurent  – Transparences, Museum of Lace and Fashion, Calais

The Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris has teamed up with the Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais for an exhibition that focuses on transparency – the way Yves Saint Laurent used nude effects in his designs. It will run until 12 November 2023. A second exhibition (which will not be the same as this one), will open in Paris in February 2024.

Seductive, sensuous, and shocking

Born in Algeria in 1936, Yves Henry Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent was destined for fashion. Whilst still at school he won a prestigious international design contest and when a Vogue magazine executive showed Christian Dior some of the schoolboy’s sketches, Dior hired him immediately as his assistant. He was 17 years old.

Dior died in 1957 and Yves Saint-Laurent was named head of the House of Dior at just 21 and exploded onto the fashion scene. In 1962 he opened his own fashion house and became one of the most influential Paris designers. He made trousers and the tuxedo (Le Smoking in France) fashionable for women, created Mondrian-inspired shift dresses and many more looks that defined the fashions of the 1960s until he retired in 2002 and which continue long past his demise. One of his most enduring themes was that of transparency.

Transparent fabrics were prominent in his late 1960’s collections. Sometimes his designs were seen as scandalous and shocking as he pushed couture to new extremes but ultimately influenced fashions of the late 20^th century and into the 21^st century. A flick through images of gowns worn by Hollywood glitterati at big events this year reveals just how much the transparent look is still a big theme.

An astounding collection

The exhibition is astounding – some 60 original outfits (10 of which belong to the Museum), original sketches, collection boards, swatches of material and invoices give an intimate window to the designs. Wonderful photographs of models and clients such as Catherine Deneuve wearing Saint-Laurent, together with anecdotes plus catwalk film footage bring to life the designer’s creations in a way that still shocks at times. But you it’s clear just how incredibly sophisticated the designs were and how the exquisite tailoring that made him the King of fashion for decades. I could easily imagine Lady Gaga or Dua Lipa wearing just about anything and everything in the show. From topless blouses to barely covered bottoms in gorgeous evening gowns using lace and sheer materials.

“Nothing is more beautiful than a naked body,” the late couturier once declared.

Demure – and decadent

“Transparences” presents an incredible window into the world of one of France’s top designers showing how he worked to ‘reveal’ the body of the woman wearing his costume with both elegance – and audacity.

Dresses that look demure from the front, astonish when you see the back, the derriere barely covered by sheer Chantilly lace. Sublimely cut robes with bodice inserts, evening and day wear that pushed the boundaries of design and required a daring customer, though these outfits were impactful, you were unlikely to see many women wearing the more daring costumes out in public. The Nude Dress of 1968, made entirely of transparent chiffon provided ‘modesty’ in the form of ostrich feathers. Even in 2010 when French model/actress Laetita Casta wore a transparent 1968 Saint-Laurent dress – it caused a sensation. Yves Saint Laurent wrote: “A nude woman’s body, that I have to dress without hindering the freedom of her natural movements. In short, my profession is a loving dialogue with this naked woman, using all the magic of my rolls of fabric.”

This is an outstanding exhibition, an astonishing collection and a fascinating window into French haute-couture and fashion history.

Calais Museum of Lace and Fashion

Calais became famous for its lace making in the 19^th Century when English lace makers, famous for their lacemaking, smuggled one of their new-fangled looms into France and set up shop at Saint-Pierre just a stone’s throw from the museum. The Anglo-French collaboration was immensely successful and completely transformed the French lace making industry which had previously been handmade only. Calais lace and tulle became renowned, desired by the rich, famous and royalty, and the lace making industry in Calais employed some 40,000 workers in its heyday.

Calais Lace

Today Calais is still an important centre for the production of lace and is much sought after. Clients of Calais lace include Valentino, Jean Paul Gaultier, Lacroix and Calvin Klein, and the majority of the lace produce is exported to countries around the world to be used in the production of wedding dresses and lingerie.

The museum is located in a 19^th Century lace factory renovated by the architects who designed Jean-Paul Gaultier’s HQ and the Champollion Museum in Figeac. In the vast museum galleries, you can discover the history of lace making. From the handmade lace of the 16^th Century right up to modern times. Gorgeous antique dresses with lace collars, bodices, and petticoats and up to the minute designer haut couture, brocade gowns, velvet frock coats and rolls of exquisite, delicate lace in all colours are on show.

The museum also has a unique collection of nine huge 19^th century industrial looms. Five of them are still working – and making lace to this day.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Exhibition Yves Saint Laurent: Transparences – From June 24th to November 12th, 2023

Cité de la dentelle et de la mode (Museum for Lace and Fashion) 135 quai du Commerce – 62100 Calais (about 10 minutes from Calais car-ferry port – well worth a detour.
Open every day from 10am to 6pm (5pm from 1 November/closed Tuesdays)
On site: restaurant, fabulous shop, and resource centre.
See the Museum website for opening times: cite-dentelle.fr
Find out more about this unique exhibition at: calais-cotedopale.co.uk/yves-saint-laurent
Discover Calais and the Opal Coast: calais-cotedopale.co.uk

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If ever there was a real sleeping beauty castle, then the Chateau d’Ussé is it. A stone’s throw from the river Indre, sitting atop a ridge, this pretty castle is part renaissance, part Gothic – totally fairy tale.

Teeming with towers and turrets of white tufa stone, spanning architectural styles from the 1400s to the 1600s, view it from the bridge across the river and you’ll think you’ve dreamed yourself straight into a Sleeping Beauty scene. So it may come as no surprise to discover that Charles Perrault (1628-1703), the great French writer of fairy tales, used this castle as the setting for his tale la Belle au bois dormant – Sleeping Beauty.

History of the Chateau d’Ussé

There’s been a castle here for more than 1000 years though nothing of that early Viking fortress remains. The castle we see was begun in the 15th century and completed in the late 1600s. It’s in a fabulous location, atop a hill overlooking the countryside, backed by the forest of Chinon and surrounded by parkland.

The castle was bought in 1807 by the Duchess of Duras, a novelist. She managed to keep her head during the French Revolution though her husband lost his. She fell in love with the writer and politician Chateaubriand. Her love was not reciprocated and when he openly took a mistress, the poor Duchess was heartbroken and stopped all the hands on the clocks in the castle saying that she did not wish to be ‘reminded of the hours that passed and marked his not coming to her side…’ Not a sleeping beauty ending for her.

What to see at the Chateau d’Ussé

To this day the castle is lived in, passed through generations of the Duchess of Duras’ family, and the current owner and resident is the Duke de Blacas d’Aulps, grandson of the man who began the Egyptian Department at the Louvre in Paris.

The 17^th century Mansard staircase is stunning and the rooms are beautifully decorated including a ‘royal’ bedroom. Prepared for King Louis XVI it is dominated by a voluptuous 5-poster bed though alas – the King never arrived. There are tapestries, 18th century furnishings, and porcelain on display in several rooms though you don’t get to see most of the rooms as they are of course inhabited by the residents. An interesting chapel in the grounds features the history of the castle.

You also can’t help but fail to notice the mannequins in many of the rooms or poised on the staircase. Strangely lifelike, their costumes are changed each year and they are the passion of the Duchess I’m told. I have to say, they are somewhat spooky though the original costumes dating back centuries are superb!

Fairies in the attic

And head up into the attic for a raft of rooms presenting a sleeping beauty scenario featuring the Wicked Queen, Aurora – the sleeping beauty, her prince and a whole host of fairy tale favourites. The stairs and corridors are narrow at times and it’s definitely not Disney, but kids love it.

From the top of the castle the views over the terraced gardens below are outstanding. Some of the orange trees are more than 100 years old. The gardens were originally designed by the great le Nôtre who also designed the gardens of Versailles.

Allow a couple of hours for this visit including the gardens. There’s a terraced cafe opposite and a cute shop next door full of trinkets, textiles and things that are hard to resist and make great souvenirs!

Chateau d’Ussé website: chateaudusse.fr

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In a former German submarine base in Bordeaux, a most spectacular sensory digital art venue now resides: the Bassins des Lumières.

The base was built from 1940-1943 to house multiple U-boats and submersibles. This is a truly vast concrete space, some 600,000 cubic metres was used to construct it. And it is now the largest digital art centre in the world – hosting astounding immersive exhibitions.

Tailor-made sound and light experiences are created to fill the voluminous space using state of the art technology to bring the art of the greatest artists in history, as well as contemporary artists, to life. Extraordinary displays drench the huge walls with light and colour, it is all around you, and reflected in the water that fills the pools.

What to see at Bassins des Lumières

A nice walk to reach the venue is via Qaui Lawton from the Cite du Vin, another major attraction in the city. The tram stop for Cite du vin is the nearest stop to the Bassins des Lumières (or take bus no 9 from the city centre). You’ll walk through an area which has also been transformed in recent years. Once somewhat neglected, it’s now an arty area with bars, restaurants and hotels opening up. And there’s a spaceship! The 55 feet wide ‘life-sized’ UFO was created by British artist Susanne Treister. It makes you stop in your tracks as you wander past. The walk takes around 30 minutes. You’ll see the colossal submarine pens pretty much the whole way from the start of the waterways (Bassins a Flot No. 1 where the spaceship sits in the water and No.2).

You enter the exhibition space via the original, heavy door. Step into an isolated and soundproofed area, and find yourself in a dark echoey space. As you walk along the former gangways and along the quays you almost feel that you are virtually in the artwork. The shows take place throughout the day, with art portrayed in six different parts of the base.

Immense, immersive, incredible…

It is a surprisingly sensory and almost spiritual experience. It’s haunting even, emotional at times as you are cocooned in the dark surrounded by extraordinary beauty as music plays, the notes surround you, bouncing from the walls, ceiling and pools. Suddenly you find yourself immersed in the heart of art you may have seen in books or museums. Images of people you’ve seen in paintings are somehow made more human in their larger than life size appearance. Faces look more real. You see details that are easy to miss in a small image as the art is revealed in this huge scale space. Sometimes the art is full of motion, making it feel more like a video. More than 100 powerful projectors create an astounding spectacle.

I stood before a portrait of Mary holding Jesus and it seemed so much more tangible. Suddenly it wasn’t just a religious painting, you can see the look of love a mother has for her baby. It was a powerful, mesmerising image. Immersive art like this holds your focus. It makes you feel that these were real people in a way a painting doesn’t always achieve.

The art is immense in every sense. The light flows over and around you. Paintings, portraits, scenes of life lived long ago or somewhere else, buildings and people, come to bright vivid life.

The exhibitions change regularly and feature the most famous and artists in history, as well as contemporary artists like Klimt (see video below).

The Bassins des Lumières is one of the top sites to visit in Bordeaux – spectacular, unique and unmissable.

Find out more at: bassins-lumieres.com

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Home to numerous impressionist and post-impressionist painters over the 19^th century and the beginning of the 20^th century, the Orangerie museum is in the Jardin des Tuileries, just steps from the Louvre museum, next to the Place de la Concorde. You’ll find masterpieces by Paul Cézanne, Henri Matisse, Armedeo Modigliani, Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso, Pierre-Auguste Renoir and many other artists of the period.

History

The Museum is installed in an old orangery, hence the name. Commissioned by Napoleon III, it was built in 1852 to overwinter citrus fruit trees that were displayed in tubs in the Jardin des Tuileries. The building underwent several transformations in the 20th century. It functioned as a warehouse, military accommodation and as a performance centre for sports and musicals. Eventually it came under the control of the Beaux Arts administration. They turned it into a museum and the building was expanded to accommodate artworks.

Monet and the Orangerie Museum

Claude Monet had become wealthy and famous by the early 1900. He was also by then obsessed with water lilies which he grew in the pond in his garden at Giverny Normandy. On 12 November 1918, the day after the Armistice, he offered a series of his water lily paintings to the state, as a symbol of peace. He began them in 1914, then 73 years old. His friend, George Clemenceau, then President of France was delighted with the offer. The Orangerie Museum was chosen to showcase them. Monet even created more paintings specifically to fit the specially constructed, curving walls of the building. It took almost a decade for the paintings to be completed and shown, with Monet involved in the decoration of the rooms in which his work was hung. He died, holding Clemenceau’s hand, just a few months before the paintings were installed.

The paintings are extraordinary, immersive and a truly monumental achievement.

Art and exhibitions

Over the years the Orangerie has grown its collection and now contains a permanent exhibition: Les Arts à Paris. There are twelve works by Picasso, ten by Matisse and ten by Utrillo. And there are many more incredible artworks of the 19th and 20th centuries.

The museum holds regular temporary exhibitions throughout the year as well as music and dance performances, workshops and tours. There’s also a gift shop/book shop and modern café.

Entry is free on the first Sunday of the month.

Tickets, opening times and details: musee-orangerie.fr

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Castles you can visit easily in a day trip from Paris include Chenonceau, the gorgeous Castle of Flowers, enchanting Chantilly and fabulous Fontainebleau. If you’re in Paris, we know you’ll have plenty to do and see, but the chateaux of France are super special and when it’s this easy to  visit, it really adds something to your French holiday.

What’s more we’ve focused on the most beautiful, historic castles you can visit by taking public transport – no need to hire a car.

Castles to visit on a day trip by train from Paris

Chateau de Chenonceau, Loire Valley

The exquisite Chateau de Chenonceau is the closest of the beautiful Loire Valley castles that’s easy to reach by train from Paris. Just one hour from Paris-Montparnasse to Saint-Pierre-des-Corps (Tours). And then 25 minutes by local train to Chenonceaux train station which is a 400m walk from the castle ticket office.

The chateau is famous for its flowers. A master florist creates magical floral displays in every room, many of the blooms grown in the castle’s own gorgeous gardens. It’s a fairy tale pretty castle, beautifully furnished, and has the most amazing onsite restaurant – L’Orangerie. For a taste of the Loire Valley castles, it’s perfect. But, be warned, you’ll want to go back and see more of the Loire Valley once you’ve been here…

More on the Chateau de Chenonceau and its gardens.

Chateau de Versailles, Ile de France

Versailles is France’s most famous palace and it really does live up to the hype. It’s an easy 40-50-minute train ride from Paris. Note that there are two stations in Versailles. The closest to the Palace is Versailles Rive Gauche (RER Line C) 12-15 minute walk. The Gare Rive Droite is a 20-25 minute walk.

The palace is huge, you’ll need an entire day for it. I once spent 3 days there and still didn’t see it all. Sumptuous, ridiculously opulent, breath-taking for its history and beauty, the castle is packed with wow factor. The gardens are equally gorgeous. Book tickets online before you go and try to go as early as possible to avoid the queues to get in. There are restaurants on site but the gardens are fabulous for a picnic and there are plenty of restaurants in the town which is also well worth a visit.

More on Versailles:

Versailles chateau visit
10 things to do in Versailles

Chateau de Chantilly, Picardy

The Chateau de Chantilly, in Picardy, is one of the most beautiful Renaissance castles in France and very easy to reach from Paris. Take a 23 minute TER train ride from Gare du Nord, then take the free shuttle bus or take the 30 minute walk if you fancy seeing the pretty town en route. Enjoy the opulent interior, an incredible art collection, stunning horse show, the gorgeous gardens with a beautiful hamlet which inspired Marie-Antoinette. And, not to be missed in the chateau restaurant – dessert with famous Chantilly cream.

More on the Chateau de Chantilly

Chateau de Vaux-le-Vicomte, Seine-et-Marne

In the TV series Versailles, it was the chateau of Vaux-le-Vicomte which was featured, not the chateau of Versailles. Vaux-le-Vicomte has a more authentic interior in keeping with the time of Louis XIV. Elegant and exquisitely beautiful, Vaux le Vicomte was the inspiration for the Palace of Versailles and made Louis XIV mad with jealousy when he saw it. Stunning gardens and interior make this a must-see chateau. From Paris Gare de l’Est, take the train to Verneuil l’Etang train station (35 minutes) and hop on the “Châteaubus” shuttle to to the Château. There’s a lovely restaurant too.

More on Vaux-le-Vicomte: Visit to the Chateau of Vaux-le-Vicomte

Chateau de Fontainebleau, Ile de France

UNESCO listed Fontainebleau has a long and interesting history going back to the 12th century. In the middle of a forest it was originally a hunting lodge used by the French Kings. Its gold plated gates and iconic horseshoe shaped staircase (where Napoleon stood to announce his abdication in 1814) are legendary. The castle has a rather intimate feel inside despite the fact that it’s enormous. With 1500 rooms it’s one of the largest in France. Take the train from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon, which takes about 40 minutes. And, from there it’s a bus ride of about 15 minutes (Bus No. 1 behind the station).

More on Fontainebleau

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Gardens of Fontainebleau

Chateau de Compiègne, Picardy

The city of Compiègne is dominated by its monumental Chateau. Louis XIV declared: “At Versailles I am the King, at Fontainebleau a Prince but at Compiegne I am a country man”. It has beautiful gardens and the chateau is now home to the National Car Museum. And the Museum of the Second Empire. And historic apartments. It really is that big! Take the train from Paris Nord to Compiegne and then it’s about a 20 minute walk (1.8km) to the castle.

More on Compiègne

Château de Pierrefonds, Picardy

Travel back in time to the days of King Arthur and Merlin the Magician when you visit the Castle of Pierrefonds. In fact the castle was the location for the BBC series of Merlin. The original castle was built in the 14^th century and restored in the 19th century. Teeming with turrets and towers, the building is magnificent and the unfurnished rooms make it easy to see the castle’s bones. It’s a 1 hour, 30 minute train fried from Paris Gare du Nord to Compiègne. Then take bus 27 or 28 to the château; or a taxi. (Bus details can be found on the destination-pierrefonds.fr website).

Chateau de Malmaison, Ile de la France

While Napoleon was away on his Egyptian Campaign in 1799, his wife Josephine, expecting him to win, spent a fortune on a new home – the Chateau de Malmaison. She also spent a fortune doing it up. Napoleon lost and was furious with her. But she loved this chateau and continued to spend time and money making its gardens ever more beautiful. When the couple divorced, Malmaison became hers. She died here, in the bed that you can see in her boudoir. It’s a beautiful castle with glorious gardens and rich with history. To get to Chateau Malmaison, take bus 258 from La Défense and alight at La Château stop (25 minutes) or take 20 minute train journey from Gare de Lyon to Rueil-Malmaison and hop on the 258 bus to La Chateau (8 minutes).

Château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye

Opposite the station, on the oldest railway line from Paris (inaugurated in 1837), the castle of Saint-Germaine-en-Laye is an imposing sight. It’s witnessed 8 centuries of history including the birth of Louis XIV. Today this beautiful chateau is home to the National Archaeology Museum. It also has lovely gardens you can wander in and roof gardens which offer astounding views over the Seine Valley. The town has a museum dedicated to Claude Debussy who lived here. There’s also an ancient apothecary and umpteen glorious buildings to oggle at. Take RER Line A from Charles de Gaulle Étoile to Saint-Germain-en-Laye, just 20 minutes away.

Château de Vincennes

The chateau of Vincennes was a royal residence from the 12^th to the 18^th century. With a vast medieval tower, the highest of its kind left in Europe, it’s an imposing sight. This seat of the royal court was abandoned when the royal court moved to Versailles. The castle became a factory, an arsenal prison and bakery. Today it the headquarters of the Historical  Defense Service library and archives which are open to the public as are the castle keep and the 14^th century Sainte-Chapelle which has beautiful stained glass windows. Vincennes is on RER Line A (station Vincennes, just 15 minutes from Gare du Nord).

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The Louvre is the world’s most famous and largest fine arts museum. It’s home to the one of the most impressive art collections in history. It’s also the most visited museum of the world with a stonking 10 million visitors a year – but it wasn’t always this way. Once it was only for royalty and aristocrats. The history of the Louvre museum is fascinating…

The origins of the Louvre

The Louvre was originally built as a fortress in the late 12^th century. By the 14^th century it had become more of a residence for the French royal family. In the 16^th century, Francis I, known as the French Renaissance King, had major works carried out to turn it into a Renaissance palace. Every time a new monarch was appointed, there was expansion and change until the Louvre reached a monumental size. Today, it covers a total area of 652,300 square feet (60,600 square metres).

In 1682, Louis XIV moved the Royal residence to Versailles, 17km from Paris. He wanted to distance himself from the Paris populace and exert more control over his court. After that the royal family lost interest in the Louvre. It was left to fall into disrepair though some parts of the monumental building were taken over by cultural groups including artists and writers.

The Louvre was once called the Napoleon Museum

Following the French Revolution, the National Assembly ruling body opened the Louvre as a museum in August 1793 with a collection of 537 paintings. When Napoleon Bonaparte came to power he had the Louvre renamed “Musée Napoleon” and vastly expanded the collection, adding art from his military campaigns, private donations and commissions.

In 1814, when Napoleon’s rule came to end, almost 5,000 artworks were returned to their countries of origin. The Louvre reverted to its original name.

What to see at the Louvre

The world’s most visited fine arts museum was once a fortress.  The history of the Louvre Museum is fascinating. So enormous is the Louvre, that it would take three months to view every piece of art contained in it. And that’s if you spent just 30 seconds looking at each artwork all day, every day without a break. There are more than 7,500 paintings and the displays cover nearly 15 acres, and are divided across eight quite separate departments…

Artworks range from the 600 BC to the 19^th century and range from Egyptian antiques to Old Masters. Thousands visit to see the armless beauty of the Venus de Milo, and Winged Victory, an ancient Greek sculpture. Other popular works include a stele inscribed with the Code of Hammurabi, da Vinci’s tragic sculpture The Dying Slave and Antonio Canova’s 18th-century sculpture Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss. Eugene Delacroix’s, Liberty Leading the People, which depicts a bare-breasted Liberty goddess leading a charge in the French Revolution, thought to have inspired Victor Hugo’s Les Misérables, is popular with French visitors.

The Mona Lisa at the Louvre

Without question, the Louvre’s most famous work is Leonardo da Vinci’s, Mona Lisa. She enchants hordes of visitors with her enigmatic smile, creating very long queues. This iconic painting is much smaller than people realise. It’s just 21 by 30 inches, covered with bullet-proof glass and flanked by guards. This protection is the result of the painting being stolen in 1911 but was thankfully recovered in 1913.

The Louvre’s pyramid

In 1983, the Louvre underwent a renovation plan known as the Grand Louvre. Part of the plan was to create a new main entrance and Architect I.M. Pei was awarded the project. The modern glass pyramid and underground lobby he designed was inaugurated in 1988 followed by the Inverted Pyramid, a skylight dipping into the underground lobby in 1993. The pyramid wasn’t always popular. As with the Eiffel Tower, there wasn’t universal approval. There was even a rumour started that the pyramid has 666 panes of glass, the sign of the devil clearly. It’s not true – there are 673!

Take a break

Head to Le Café Marly which is in the Richelieu wing of the Louvre. It’s not cheap but the food is good, the cocktails are delicious and it does offer wonderful views over the courtyard of the Louvre and the Pyramid. Great for people watching from the arcades.

Wander in the Tuileries gardens, between the Louvre and the Champs Elysées. It’s one of the biggest outdoor museums in France. Run by the Louvre it contains artworks from the 17th to 20th century. It’s also great for relaxing, people watching and

Finally, if you visit the Louvre, book your tickets in advance to avoid long queues. And, if you’re a night owl, visit on Wednesday and Friday when the museum closes at 9.45pm. There are less crowds then, which is great if you’re keen to see the Mona Lisa.

Virtual visit to the Louvre

The Louvre collection is now visible on line – in its entirety. Almost half a million pieces of art ranging from paintings and sculptures to textiles and furnishings are being made viewable. And you can also take a virtual visit to the museum through an interactive map – it’s a little clunky but if you crave a Louvre fix you can get it at the Louvre Collections map. The histories of the pieces is fascinating. In the jewellery section for instance the history of the famous Regent Diamond includes details of who owned it and how Napoleon had it embedded in his sword.

Louvre website in English: www.louvre.fr/en/homepage

More Paris Museums

Musée d’Orsay is just across the road from the Louvre
Yves Saint Laurent Museum
Fragonard Perfume Museum
Espace Dalí museum-gallery 
Picasso Museum
Cluny Museum

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Though France has plenty of Chateaux that impress, wow and take your breath away – some are more special than others. The Chateau de Chantilly in Picardy, a short journey from the centre of Paris, is one of them…

Potted history of the Chateau of Chantilly

Castles have stood for many centuries on the site where the current Chateau de Chantilly stands today. Surrounded by lakes and forests, it’s surprising to know that it’s just 55km from the centre of Paris. Several prominent families have been the owners including Constable Anne de Montmorency, companion to Francois I, the Renaissance King of France, creator of the Chateau de Chambord. Montmorency, like many nobles of the day, followed the King’s Renaissance style and had the medieval castle updated, constructing the Petit Chateau, today the oldest part of the castle.

Eventually it passed to Charlotte de Montmorency, wife of Henri II de Bourbon, Prince of Condé. Their son, Louis II de Bourbon, known as ‘the Grand Condé’, organised a courtly life in Chantilly that rivalled Versailles, with magnificent balls and huge fireworks displays. The dinners he held were legendary. In 1671 he organised a three-day extravaganza to honour Louis XIV managed by his steward Francois Vatel. When a delivery failed to arrive, the second disaster during the feast, the overwrought steward committed suicide thereby creating one of the best known dinners in French history.

Grand stables and updates

The Great Stables were built in 1719 for the hunt-loving Duke de Bourbon. The town of Chantilly got an upgrade by the same architect. The Grand Chateau was destroyed in 1799. The last of the Bourbon-Condé family was beheaded on the orders of Napoleon Bonaparte in 1804 and the castle passed to Henri d’Orleans, Duke d’Aumale and son of King Louis-Philippe in 1830.

He rebuilt the Grand Chateau in 1857 to house his vast collection of art and treasures. He was known to the be greatest collector of his time. When he died he left the entire domaine to the State. The Condé museum opened to the public in 1898. And little has changed since then. And that makes this Chateau an absolute treasure.

Inside the Chateau of Chantilly

Some of the world’s great paintings can be seen at Chantilly from works by Botticelli to Raphael, Van Dyke and Watteau, Delacroix and Titian. Royal portraiture, Italian, Dutch, French and Renaissance paintings vie for attention. Wonderful stained glass, tapestries and books including a copy of the famous Tres Riches Heures of Jean, Duc de Berry are held here (though you can’t see this precious, fragile book but a digital version is available).

Visit the apartment of the Duke and his wife, filled with paintings, furnishings and artefacts. It’s incredible to think that if the Duke, who died in 1897, was to return he would recognise the rooms, the places where the paintings are hung, the furniture, his favourite reading chair. The Chateau is a snapshot of a long gone time, exquisitely and sumptuously decorated and beautifully preserved.

In Vatel’s former kitchens there is now a restaurant. Another restaurant is open in the grounds during spring to autumn months. At both you can try the famous Chantilly cream, said to have been invented in the castle kitchens. Take it from me – it tastes better there than anywhere!

The Gardens of Chantilly

The gardens cover a stonking 115 hectares. Several themes can be seen from the French-style garden created by Andre Le Notre in the 17th century to the Anglo-Chinese Garden in the 18th century and the English Garden in the 19th century. There are statues and grottoes, lakes and a hamlet reminiscent of Marie Antoinette’s hamlet at Versailles. In fact it’s claimed this is what inspired the queen. It’s a brilliant garden for strolling with shaded walkways and secret paths.

You can take a boat ride, see peacocks, take a Segway or electric cart ride and watch the horses exercising.

The Great Stables of Chantilly

The Great Stables of Chantilly are mind-bogglingly beautiful. They are a chateau in their own right with stunning architectural details. Today the building houses the Museum of the Horse – surely the horse-loving Duke de Bourbon would have approved. Paintings, artwork, books and horse paraphernalia fill the rooms.

Visit the stables and meet the horses in their seriously impressive rooms. Equestrian shows are held year round. Combining poetry, acrobatics and humour, the horse team put on an awe-inspiring dressage display beneath a 28 metre high majestic dome in the Great Stables. It is a magnificent performance of horsemanship and the bond between man and horse.

I’d recommend you allow a whole day for the visit – there’s a lot to fall in love with.

How to get to the Chateau Chantilly from Paris

The Chateau de Chantilly is in the department of Picardy, region Hauts-de-France. From Gare du Nord take an overland regional train to Chantilly-Gouvieux. It takes a little over 20 minutes. From here it’s a 25-minute stroll to the château through the pretty town. Or you can take the no. 15 bus towards Senlis and get off at the “Chantilly, église Notre-Dame” stop or wait for the free, but infrequent shuttle bus DUC (Cantilian Urban Service). The bus stop is outside the station. Taxis take about 5 minutes and you can also hire bikes at the station. Check the Chateau de Chantilly website (below) for access details year round.

Top tip: pick up a round trip ticket from Gare du Nord covering travel and entry to all of Chantilly’s attractions at a special price. At Gare du Nord purchase the “Pack TER Domaine de Chantilly” ticket.

Parking is available at the castle.

More details at: www.domainechantilly.com and discover more things to do in the area with www.french-weekendbreaks.co.uk

Get my free road trip book to discover the best of the Hauts de France region from beautiful beaches to historic cities, medieval villages and glorious castles: www.french-weekendbreaks.co.uk/motorbike-touring-france

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Dijon, capital of Burgundy, is a city of culture, history and exquisite architecture, a living museum in itself. There are so many cultural venues to visit, it’s hard to know where to begin. Surrounded by vineyards and stunning countryside, it really is an absolute jewel of a French city. Plus there are fabulous restaurants and wine bars and one of the best markets in France – this is one city you really do need to put on your list. It’s just an hour and a half from Paris by train so if you must, a day trip is easy to do, but a longer trip is recommended. It’s the sort of place you go to once and you know you’ll have to come back, once just isn’t enough.

Culture vultures will adore the many brilliant museums in Dijon, most of which are totally free…

Best Museums in Dijon

Musée de Beaux Arts

The Palais des Ducs is now home to the magnificent and monumental Museum of Fine Arts. Founded in 1787, it’s one of the oldest museums in France. Like all public museums in Dijon it’s free to enter. You reach it via the lavish hall of the tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy (top photo), formerly the guards room, and that is your first inkling of just what a treat you’re in for. Jewels of 15th century funerary art, the tombs of Philip the Bold and John the Fearless are extraordinary with their namesakes represented by lifelike statues held up by incredibly detailed Mourners. I could stare at them for hours – the more you look, the more you see.

The museum has around 50 rooms of priceless treasures dating from antiquity to modern day with some fabulous works by Yan Pei-Ming, Monet, Manet and so many renowned artists it’s incredible. I loved the religious artworks, the detail is astonishing and so well preserved, they look as they did hundreds of years ago.

The museum has undergone a major renovation and reopened in May 2019. Director David Liot told me that the renovation was a challenge “it’s a heritage space so we had to be very careful but it was dingy before and we needed to make it accessible to all”. The flow of the exhibits is vastly improved, there are two new spaces and the rooms are filled with light so you can truly appreciate the artworks. The walls are coloured to enhance your experience, I loved the Pinot Noir colour – it really made the paintings pop. Put this museum on your must-see list, if you don’t, you’ll be missing out on an incredible opportunity to see one of the finest museums in France (for free).

Plus…

You could easily spend an entire day at the museum (and then some). So, take a break at the Brasserie des Beaux Arts restaurant within the museum complex. You’ll find seriously good eats, a fabulous menu of local, seasonal dishes, and a great wine list. It makes visiting even more fun! (Open for lunch only).

Afterwards pop to the pretty courtyard behind the museum and relax in the tranquil Place des Ducs. A statue of Philippe Le Bon looks over what was once the garden of Marguerite of Flanders, wife of Phillipe le Hardi (bold).

Musée Rude

His name might not ring a bell but you almost certainly know of his work. Francois Rude, son of Dijon (1784-1855) was the sculptor of La Marseillaise on the Arc de Triomphe amongst much else. You can see some of his main works in the form of casts in the museum dedicated to him in the former Saint Etienne Church (free to enter). It is a quite beautiful place and totally deserves its place in the best museums of Dijon list.

Musée de la Vie Bourguignonne

Just one more museum you mustn’t miss though there are several more. If you can, squeeze in a visit to the quirky Museum of Burgundian Life (free). The reconstructions of 19th and early 20th century Burgundian shops are brilliant – hat shops, photography, chemists, filled with bits and pieces from the day. Read our full review here.

Visit a gingerbread museum

Channel your inner Hansel and Gretel and head to Mulot & Petitjean’s gingerbread museum and factory. It’s just outside the city centre, a 20 minute walk or take the bus which takes a few minutes. The presentations take you through the history of the firm, founded in 1796, and gingerbread with some innovative museography. Portraits which come to life and a collection of artefacts. You also get to see the gingerbread being made (unless you’re there on a machine cleaning day).

Afterwards enjoy the gorgeous vintage shop and if you want to take home a truly memorable treat, take a trolley as the 6kg gingerbread cake is not easy to get in your handbag I discovered. Details: www.mulotpetitjean.com

Le Consortium

Art lovers will adore this contemporary art venue in a former cassis factory. More than 400 pieces in an ever growing collection which dates mainly from the 1970s. It’s a beautiful space and a thought provoking selection. Don’t miss the book shop with its innovative moveable bookshelves and reading area. Le Consortium publishes around 50 art books a year. And if you’re lucky enough to be there on a day when they have a cinema showing in their private cinema or a music event – you’re in for a treat. www.leconsortium.fr/en

Bibliotheque Patrimoniale

Hogwarts fan? You’ll love the city library. Once a Jesuits College, it became a library in the 17th century. Groups can take a tour of the whole building with its beautiful wood panelled rooms and painted ceilings.

Game of Thrones writer George RR Martin visited and loved the enormous 18th century globe. There are more than 500,000 books, the earliest of which date back to the 9th century. There’s also a specialist collection of food books and menus, more than 30,000 of them.

Anyone can access the reading room.  I felt as if I would spot Harry Potter under the twinkling lights, studying for his wizard’s exam.

Musée Magnin

Housed in a stunning 17th century mansion house in the heart of the city, the Magnin Museum houses a beautiful collection. Paintings, sculptures, furniture and more. Plus there are regular temporary exhibitions.

Dijon Parliament

The former Parliament building of Dijon is now a working law court. It was from here that the Parliament of Burgundy sat. Though the Palais de Justice, as it now is, is in use as a court of appeal, you can still enter. There’s not much to see inside, the grand hall is accessible but the side rooms are closed to the public. But it’s worth seeking out for that extraordinary door.

Musée Archeologique

The main wing of the former Benedictine Abbey of Saint-Bénigne now houses the collections of the archaeological museum. It’s a small but impressive collection, especially the Roman artefacts and the building is worth a visit in its own right.

Maison Millière

Not strictly a museum, but Maison Millière, a half timbered house dating to 1483 is historic and well worth a visit. “It was built 9 years before Christopher Columbus discovered America” says the charming owner Phlippe Bernard (above right). Some might recognise it from the film Cyrano de Bergerac with Gerard Depardieu. It has a lovely courtyard filled with plants and frescoes, a tea room and wine bar downstairs, upstairs restaurant reached by an impressive wooden staircase and shop selling local products and souvenirs. Find it at 10, rue de la Chouette, right by the magic owl of Dijon!

Now all this culture and fabulous sites are sure to make you hungry. Lucky for you, you’re in the perfect city to indulge – Dijon is a feast for the senses in every way: Where to eat out in Dijon

More on Dijon

What to see and do in Dijon
Dijon Market – one of the best markets in France
en.destinationdijon.com; UKFrancefr

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Strasbourg, the capital of Alsace, has a dozen museums. Many of them are in historic buildings like the Museum of History which is in a 16th century former slaughterhouse and a voodoo museum (yes you did read that right), in a water tower! There’s a varied range of exhibitions from antiquity to contemporary – something to suit all tastes.

Palais Rohan

The Palais Rohan de Strasbourg was built between 1732 and 1742 to plans by Robert de Cotte, Principal Architect to the King, for Cardinal Armand-Gaston de Rohan-Soubise, Prince-Bishop of Strasbourg. Designed to resemble one of the great Parisian mansions, this magnificent residence has remained virtually unchanged since it was built. Many visitors miss this one as the building, although huge, seems tucked away in a corner on a large square overlooking the river.

It’s now home to the Musée des Beaux-Arts with a major collection of European paintings which includes Botticelli, Rubens and Canaletto.  The Musée Archéologique is in the basement. And there’s a Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

Musée des Arts Decoratif

It’s a fascinating museum composed of sumptuous apartments of the former cardinals with artefacts from the 17^th to the 19^th century from tapestries to tableware, furniture and paintings. There’s a real atmosphere here, it feels as if nothing has changed in hundreds of years and you get a feeling for how public and private lives of the wealthy inhabitants differed. Extraordinarily rich architecture and decor, beautiful furnishings – it’s one you shouldn’t miss if you love history and beautiful things…

Musée de l’Ouevre Notre-Dame | Medieval Museum

Next door to Palais Rohan, this is another museum that’s absolutely stunning. I could have spent several hours in the Medieval Museum, there’s so much to see. Located in a former stone masons house and buildings from the 14^th -16^th centuries, it houses masterpieces of sculpture from the middle ages, and from the Cathedral.

There is a superb collection of stained glass windows, including the Wissembourg “Tête de Christ” window, one of the oldest known stained-glass windows. Religious statuary, wood carvings, paintings and more are on show. This is one of the most beautiful collections of medieval art I’ve ever seen. It really is a must-see.

www.musees.strasbourg.eu/musee-de-l-oeuvre-notre-dame

Musée Alsacien

Discover the life and past of rural Alsace at the Musée Alsacien. Some rooms are faithful reproductions of rural interiors of homes and shops. And there are thousands of objects from furniture, ceramics and everyday artefacts from the 17th to the 19th century. It’s very charming and a great way to get to know more about the city.

www.musees.strasbourg.eu/musee-alsacien

Museum of Contemporary and Modern Art

If you’re a modern art fan the contemporary and modern art museum will make you very happy. Just the other side of the Vauban Dam in a huge glass building, currently covered in black and white street art, it is huge and fascinating. It mixes a number of mediums including a very famous Monet poppy painting in the landscape themed area, alongside very modern art. Wassily Kandinsky is heavily featured including a room created from one of his Cubist check creations.

This is a museum that presents art by theme. It juxtaposes modern alongside contemporary and modern could mean Monet or Sisley. It’s home to art that’s altogether more quirky and completely fascinating. I saw a giant plastic spider with a cats face which walks across the room! The Art café on the first floor has a great outdoor terrace. From here you’ll get breath-taking views over the city whilst you get your breath back from the exhibitions. Here you can take a break with tea, pastries or lunch.

Chateau Musée Vodou

Rather unusually, Strasbourg has a voodoo museum. It’s that sort of city, full of surprises. The museum in a 19^th century water tower, is home to the world’s largest private collection of West African voodoo artefacts. Exhibits cover ancestor worship, medicine, divination, witchcraft and more – it’s magic!

www.chateau-vodou.com/en/vodou-museum-strasbourg/

Find details of all museums on the Strasbourg Tourist Office website: www.otstrasbourg.fr/en/discover/monuments-museums-and-other-sites-to-visit/museums

More on Strasbourg

Where to eat out in Strasbourg – seriously delicious tips for visitors who like food!
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What to see and do in Strasbourg

The post Top Museums in Strasbourg appeared first on The Good Life France.

When Louis XIV was pondering over how to create the most magnificent palace the world had ever seen, one that truly showed off his glory and absolute power, he can’t have had any idea just how many people would tread in his footsteps and gaze in wonder at his legacy. The Chateau de Versailles is world famous. But, I promise you, nothing you see on the TV or in photos prepares you for the sheer absolute golden glitz and glamour of the real thing.

Visit to Versailles

The Chateau de Versailles been on my bucket list for years, decades even. So, when I got the chance to visit on a four-day guided tour, spending three days at Versailles and ending with a day at the chateau of Vaux le Vicomte, the inspiration for Versailles, I was over the moon. I went with Martin Randall cultural travel company, well known for their gifted guides. It was without a doubt everything I’d hoped for and more. Three days is just about enough to get a really in depth, insider view of the palace, gardens and town. And, with this tour I got access to areas that the general public don’t.

The best bit though for me, was having a guide who really knew the history and details of Versailles so well. In this case it was Tony Spawforth, the editor of a fascinating book about Versailles, TV presenter, historian and terrific storyteller. His anecdotes of life at the castle and knowledge of history married to day to day life, the ordinary things that people did during extraordinary times, made the visit come to life in a truly special way.

The Chateau de Versailles

700 rooms, 1250 chimneys, 67 staircases and 2000 windows. The chateau of Versailles is monumental, a colossus of a building. It was originally six storeys high, but the top layers were levelled off in the 19th century.

Versailles has two facades – the Paris side and the garden side. The Paris side is approached by three wide avenues. They converge on Places des Armes which, once a parade ground, was paved over in the 19th century. We all know it for its shimmering view of the castle through golden gates. However, in Louis XIV’s time it was an important military palace and he loved to review troops here. Underneath the courtyard are the barracks where the guards lived in a whole other underground world. It was said that the smell from the soldiers latrines was so bad that a layer of mastic was smothered under the cobble stones. It was apparently only partially successful. The whole place was bristling with troops. This was the seat of government and monarchy, security was paramount. Though, as we all know, it wasn’t up to the job.

Inside the Chateau

During the French Revolution the famous golden gates were ripped down. It might surprise you to know that they were only replaced with accurate reconstructions in the 1980s. You can see an original gate still though – at the Potager du Roi, the king’s vegetable garden. It’s a short walk from the palace and a must see if you’re in Versailles.

Read more about The Potager du Roi here

The gates were important, they defined different areas, administration, residential and the inner court. “If you didn’t have the right clothes on, you didn’t get in, though you could rent outfits at the palace” says Tony. Guards as fashion police – forward thinking Versailles style.

If you’re lucky you’ll get to see the guts of the castle in rooms where there is ongoing work, the brick walls and ancient beams behind the glitzy facade. It’s a reminder of the reality of this place and how what you see is a façade. The beautiful wood panelling on the walls is detachable. During WWII it was removed and hidden in a coal mine in the Pyrénées.

Life at Versailles

When Louis XIV made Versailles his home, he wanted the aristocracy and nobles of France to join him there. It was a way to keep them from plotting against the royal family as much as anything. But it wasn’t a life of luxury. Rules for how to dress, where to sit, what to say and where to be at certain times were rigidly adhered to.

Even with more than a thousand fireplaces, the castle was bitterly cold in winter. It was recorded in 1695, that the King’s glass of wine froze on the table as he sat dining alone, watched by hundreds of courtiers. I was amazed that the room where this dinner ritual took place was quite small. You can really imagine everyone squashed in, eyes on the king and his heavily laden table, stomachs rumbling, hot and bothered in summer, shivering in winter!

We pretty much know what Louis XIV every day of his life, as courtiers kept copious records detailing the minutiae of life at court right up until the king’s death from gangrene.

It was rare for courtiers to have their own kitchens so they would send their staff out for food. A sort of shanty town grew around the castle and there were food booths and tuck shops on site.

The Chateau de Versailles was a massive apartment block!

The wings of the palace were essentially apartments which were home to more than 7000 people. Lots of records have survived from the days when courtiers lived there, there are logs of repairs and renovations and plenty of complaints, a princess without a bathroom, moaning about the cold and the fact there was nowhere to cook.

While in the winter it was wildly cold, in the summer it was roaring hot. In the King’s bedroom, sheets would be soaked in water and hung over the windows to try to cool it down.

The palace is a labyrinth of rooms and for the royal family it was almost prison. It was said that Marie Antoinette, desperate for privacy would roam the palace, going through room after room locking doors behind her. One time a lock broke and it took hours to find and rescue her. Louis XVI liked to sit on the roof of the chateau with a telescope watching the comings and goings in the town.

Etiquette and snobbery ruled the lives of all who lived there until the day when a mob turned up demanding access to the King and Queen. When they stepped onto the balcony, Marie Antoinette curtsied to the crowd, it was an extraordinary thing to do. Within hours the famous etiquette was destroyed.

The Trianons and the Queen’s Hamlet

The grand Trianon was commissioned by Louis XIV in 1670 and built by architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart in 1687. Today it’s more 19th century in style than it was at the time of the Bourbon royal family, after being renovated by Empress Marie-Louise, wife of Napoleon I and Marie-Antoinette’s great-niece.

The Petit Trianon was built in the park of the Grand Trianon was a gift to Marie Antoinette from Louis XVI but was originally built for Madame de Pompadour, the mistress of Louis XV. It later became a favourite with Marie Antoinette, bolthole to escape the rigours of court life. She redesigned the Trianon gardens and created a model village round an artificial lake.

The gardens of Versailles

The gardens at the chateau provided time out from the restrictions of courtly life. A series of lockable garden rooms and grand spaces with huge vistas were created. Fetes could go on for several days at a time in Louis XIV’s younger days. All in all there was a mind boggling 25 square miles of walled hunting park.

The King’s famous gardener André Le Nôtre had an army of gardeners. There were thousands and thousands of pots of flowers which were constantly being moved about so that there were always flowers in bloom. Deadheading was done vigilantly as the king wanted only to see blooming, healthy plants. Sometimes the scent was so overwhelming it drove people inside.

Today those gardens can keep you busy for hours and walking for miles – literally.

Versailles after the French Revolution and now

After the French Revolution, the furnishings were sold off at knock-down prices, the British royal family being keen buyers. The castle was saved when locals petitioned to keep it thinking that the royal family might return one day. It was turned into a rather innovative museum for the day and was meticulously restored to look just as it did on the morning of October 6, 1789. Huge amounts of research have been carried out. “It is, says Tony, “a work of extraordinary zeal and a miracle of conservation”. In fact work is still ongoing, when I visited, the bedroom of Louis XV, in which he died of smallpox, was being renovated.

It’s still in some ways a working palace. Queen Elizabeth II stayed at the petite Trianon when she visited Versailles, and high profile government meetings still take place here.

Versailles is one of those places you have to see for yourself, truly astonishing and unforgettable…

If you visit the chateau, don’t miss the town of Versailles too, there’s loads to see and do: 10 things to do in Versailles

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