Annecy is the capital of Haute-Savoie, a department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of south-eastern France, bordering both Switzerland and Italy. To the north is Lake Geneva; to the south and southeast are Mont Blanc and the Aravis mountain range. Known as the “Venice of the Alps,” because of its network of canals, it sits at the head of Lake Annecy whose crystal-clear turquoise waters are surrounded by lush greenery and snow-capped peaks. Hiking in the Annecy mountains is reinvigorating says Rupert Parker…

Nights in the Annecy Mountains

The town’s proximity to the Alpine landscape makes it the ideal gateway for exploring the network of trails leading upwards towards the skies. True mountain lovers never stay in the valleys but climb the slopes and spend the night in one of the many refuges, often perched precariously on remote ridges.

These all offer typical mountain food of the region and fairly basic facilities, but you can be rewarded with spectacular sunsets and sunrises. For my first night, I’m going to be staying at the Pointe Percée – Gramusset Refuge. It takes around an hour to drive up to the Col des Annes, the start of the trail up to the refuge.

When I arrive the mist is down and the rain has set in, so there’s no option but to don waterproofs, put my head down and start climbing. It’s fairly steep but then levels out, and unfortunately visibility is zero. It therefore comes as a pleasant surprise, after a couple of hours, to suddenly find myself climbing the steps to the refuge.

In fact there are two buildings here, the older one the original and now acting as more of a shelter. The other was built recently and all the facilities are completely new. The dormitories upstairs are fairly spacious with bunk beds and there’s a bar with draught beer. I arrive just as the food is being served and most of the other guests are climbers.

After discarding my wet clothes, there’s a welcome spinach soup to warm me up, with chunks of homemade bread. After that comes a large tray of Tartiflette – potatoes, local Reblochon cheese, smoked bacon and cream, all baked in the oven. It’s good hearty mountain food and as I eat, my fellow diners are discussing the climbing options for tomorrow.

Aravis Mountain range

Next morning the mist begins to lift, revealing the cathedral-like summit of Pointe Percée at 2752m, the highest point of the Aravis mountain range. There are also glorious views of the Pic du Jalouvre and the Bargy range. Already the other guests are setting off for their ascent, attired in complete climbing gear, but I’m on my way back down. I can soon see my destination of La Clusaz lying in the valley down below and after a couple of hours I’m there.

After my night on the mountain, I’m going to be staying in a hotel this evening. There’s an authentic Alpine atmosphere here, the streets lined with traditional chalets, bars and restaurants and outdoor shops. Gondolas whisk you up high above the town, great for sampling mountain fare at one of the restaurants.

Balade au Clair de Lune

I’ve timed my visit so I can attend an annual event, the Balade au Clair de Lune, a walk. by the light of the moon. Everybody is encouraged to turn off their lights and use candles instead. And it’s not just inside the bars and restaurant, the streets are also lit in the same way. There are processions of drummers and dancers through the town and live bands play for dancing. Although it’s slightly damp, everyone enters into the spirit, and the place is packed with families enjoying this unique interlude.

Fabulous Faverges

Next day, for another mountain experience, I travel west to Faverges, just at the foot of Lake Annecy, and make my way up the valley of Saint-Ruph. From here it’s a steep climb up through forest to the Chalet de la Servaz at 1434m. On my way I spot wild strawberries in the grass so help myself to a quick woodland snack. I’m in the trees for most of the hike, but when I emerge on the ridge and spy the refuge, I’m rewarded with fantastic views over Lake Annecy.

Chalet de la Servaz is a fairly basic establishment with the dormitory one big space on the upper floor, crammed with mattresses. Christophe, the guardian, makes up for the lack of comfort with his enthusiasm and excellent cooking. There’s just me and three French women and we all dine together.

The memorable meal includes Diots, local 100% pork sausages, cooked in white wine and Crozets, little squares of pasta, in a cheese gratin. After a selection of local cheese, there’s a wonderful dessert of fresh fruit to finish. Then we’re in for a big surprise – outside there’s a hot tube which Christophe has been warming all evening. Everybody jumps in for communal soak, with the twinkling lights of Annecy below.

Annecy

Next morning I make my way back down and head to Lake Annecy for a wonderful lunch at La Cuillère à Omble. Of course they serve fresh fish from the lake and, as well as Trout Rillettes, I get a whole Omble, Arctic Char, to myself. Then it’s a short drive to Annecy itself and I’m staying in the old town (read our guide to Annecy). Even though it’s just the start of summer, the crowds are out in force.

Still that doesn’t detract from its charms. The narrow cobblestone streets, with their pastel-coloured buildings and flower-decked balconies, are lined with designer boutiques, restaurants, cafes, and bakeries. Water is everywhere, with hump backed bridges crossing the winding canals. It’s market day and stalls selling fresh fruit and vegetables display their wares.

I can’t resist taking a dip in the lake so follow the lakeside promenade, past the boats offering cruises and the sailing and rowing clubs to Plage des Marquisats. This effectively acts as the town beach, with a grassy foreshore full of sunbathers. In front of me is the wide expanse of the lake with the Alpine peaks rearing up behind.

As I jump into the water, in the distance I can just about make out the refuge where I spent the night. Of course I’m staying in a pleasant hotel in Annecy, but deep down inside, I can’t help hankering for the peace and quiet of the mountains. Not forgetting the filling wholesome food and that wonderful hot tub.

Useful information

Annecy Mountains website has information about the region.
Pointe Percée – Gramusset Refuge has 49 dormitory beds.
La Ferme is a comfortable hotel with good local mountain specialities in La Clusaz.
Refuge de la Servaz has 19 dormitory beds.
Hotel Auberge du Lyonnais in Annecy is right in the old town and has an excellent restaurant.

Rupert Parker is a writer, photographer, cameraman & TV Producer. His special interests are food & travel & he writes about everything from wilderness adventure to gourmet spa tours. Read about his latest adventures on his website Planet Appetite.

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QBE adventure sailing holidays for teenagers along the Breton coast aren’t ordinary – they are life-changing experiences…

Jessica Anderson and her husband are both healthcare professionals who live in Montana (USA), near Yellowstone National Park. Nichola Waygood is an artist in Edinburgh. And Francesco Stella is a successful businessman in Milan. Different countries, different vocations, different circumstances. But they all share one thing in common: in 2022 they all elected to send their teenage son or daughter sailing with Will Sutherland in Brittany, one of France’s premiere sailing areas and a world away from home.

The captain and his crew

QBE director Will Sutherland is an experienced sailor and inspiring mentor who has taught outdoor and life skills his entire professional life. QBE, the company he founded more than 30 years ago, stands for “Qualified By Experience,” and that is the philosophy at the heart of his singular maritime expeditions.

These are no ordinary holidays – they are extraordinary adventures on the waves, where friendships are formed and lives are changed as sailors are made, with or without any previous yachting experience.

It’s an opportunity for teenagers to expand their horizons while interacting with a team of peers to undertake challenging tasks in a safe but unfamiliar environment. And it all takes place on two gaff-rig sailing vessels that are based in the historic port of Saint-Malo.

Crews live aboard for two to three weeks and sail the boats for up to 1,000 nautical miles, visiting the Channel Islands and journeying around the Breton peninsula. Learning to sail is the main aim, but it’s much more than just a sailing course. All the teamwork skills learned by living and working together – leadership, decision-making, personal communication, confrontation management, planning and managing – are transferable ashore.

An adventure that stays with you

“The transformations in self-confidence and self-knowledge are often remarkable. Quite often it can be a bit of a culture shock being in France, on a traditionally rigged boat and in charge of their own destinies,” says Will. “But at the same time, the kids are having a lot of fun on a memorable holiday. They make friends for life over a few weeks, and they go home knowing that they have achieved something to be proud of.”

Sailing since he was six years old, British-born Will taught yachting in Antibes, spent seven years coaching a high school J24 racing team at Cowes Week and taught at the Royal Yachting Association Sea Schools in the UK. He was also a teacher and expeditions master at Aiglon College, in Switzerland, famous for its ambitious expeditionary-learning programme. That extensive experience makes him uniquely qualified to lead QBE’s sailing holidays. He and his professional team teach the student crews to do everything (instruction is primarily in English, though the team also speak French). They take most of the decisions whilst ensuring safety at all times and giving the teenagers every opportunity to tackle the responsibilities entailed in sailing 46-foot yachts. The sailing school has been going for more than 30 years, and QBE’s team have enjoyed tremendous success in teaching, coaching and mentoring.

“Mixed crews work best for getting the most out of the experience,” says Will. “Every individual counts, everyone is a significant participant. If the crews don’t manage to work together, the boats do not sail well. And because we have identical boats, there is always a bit of competition and a desire to be out in front.”

The boats

The yachts are head-turning replicas of Alouette, a 19th-century French pilot cutter. The crew must take on board that these classic yachts require teamwork and effort to sail, and from that comes a sense of achievement. In fact, they’re the perfect boats to teach teens the skill and art of sailing – big enough to be very seaworthy but small enough for novice sailors to learn the ropes quickly.

It’s fun

A QBE expedition is a fantastically fun holiday: Crew members not only enjoy the thrill of coastal sailing, but they also get to observe millions of stars visible in clear night skies and discover a surprising variety of wildlife, including bottlenose dolphins, seals, and a vast number of seabirds. The boats routinely call at little-known ports that are steeped in history and regional culture. There are also visits to historic sites, museums, and cultural events. And everyone enjoys sampling the local taste sensations, including Brittany’s favourite – crêpes.

This is an exceptional adventure where those who sail these extraordinary boats create memories that last a lifetime.

Jessica Anderson’s son was so taken with his QBE experience that he’s coming back again this season – in both July and August! “It was more than an amazing adventure,” he enthuses, “it was a life-changing experience.”

Find out more about QBE’s holidays for teenagers in June, July, and August, and also for adults (on application), at www.elsleaders.com

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Swoosh down the pistes, go fat biking, snowmobiling, sledging or snowshoe hiking, take a horse-drawn carriage ride and enjoy the snowy mountain peaks. In the evening, pop off your skis and have some fun! There’s so much to do in the French Alps in winter and for New Year celebrations you’re spoiled for choice.

Warm up in your cosy chalet, admire the magical scenery from a hot tub, chill out in a sauna, take a dip in a heated pool – your accommodation in the French Alps is part of the fun…

Courchevel

In Courchevel the skiing is glorious but there’s plenty more to do. Why not go ice diving at the lake of Courchevel Le Praz (1,300m above sea level). Or try your hand at driving a ski groomer in a 470-horsepower piste caterpillar, accompanied by a professional. And in the evening enjoy the festive winter nightlife. For New Year there are three days of events with entertainment including theatre, music, dance and fireworks – great for friends, couples and families (29-31 December).

Meribel

In picturesque Meribel, New Year’s Eve brings a special torch lit descent, where skiers head to the slopes by candlelight as fireworks explode overhead. This is followed by a giant party on the piste with free hot drinks, music and more fireworks. When the party’s over, winter is the ideal time to go snowboarding, snowshoeing and husky-dog sledging in the Mottaret Mountains, while the ice skating rinks in Meribel town centre will keep the whole family entertained.

Val Thorens

Like Meribel, Val Thorens ski resort hosts a torchlight parade, suitable for all ages, followed by a fireworks display to say goodbye to the old year while Place Caron rocks to the beat as DJ’s play the funkiest sounds. In the Saint-Martin-de-Bellville commune, Val Thorens is a fun winter destination with plenty of events including a rather unusual Australia Day (26 January) – with fancy dress, a giant barbecue and all things Australian!

Aravis resorts

Magical Manigod with its Narnia-like scenery, Le Grand Bornand and La Clusaz with their fabulous pistes and vibrant village life and lovely St Jean de Sixt – each part of the Aravis Massif resorts offers something different. On New Year’s Eve there’s an unmissable masked ball in Le Grand Bornand!

Go night skiing. Ogle the majestic Mont Blanc from the beautiful Beauregard Plateau. Take a cheese tasting in the village of Manigod. Go ice bumping in La Clusaz – yup,  bumper cars on ice! Whizz down the sledge run at St Jean de Sixt – suitable for all ages! Relax in a hot tub (photo La Grange a l’Ours, Manigod).

Dreamy chalets

And when you’re not outdoors having fun, you can be indoors having fun, chilling out and enjoying your best life in a gorgeous chalet. OVO Network has over 300 beautiful chalets and apartments to choose from, each hand picked for their location, style and facilities. Where you stay is as much a part of your French Alps winter holiday as the snow. There are plenty of restaurants but self-catering is also a great experience with bakeries, fromageries, epiceries and supermarkets in the towns and villages. Plus stock up at the regular markets where you’ll find great cheeses and charcuterie, and make fondue, raclette and tartiflette – perfect fuel for your Alpine adventures.

Browse OVO Network’s fabulous collection of chalets and skidaddle to the French Alps this winter for a brilliant holiday.

Be the first to hear about special offers, new chalets and new from the Alps with the OVO Network newsletter – sign up here

If you have holiday rental accommodation in the French Alps, find out more about how OVO Network can help you achieve year-round bookings.

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When booking your ski trip, there is often a trade-off between convenience and charm. Samoëns, in the Grand Massif ski area, just 1 hour and 10 minutes’ drive from Geneva airport, is a beautiful alpine village, ancient and very French…

It’s a tale of love at first sight for travel writer Rachel Ifans, whose guide to family skiing in Samoëns reveals why this resort is a winner…

What’s great about skiing in Samoëns?

I’ve been to a range of ski resorts in the French Alps over the last decade – from Les Gets to Flaine and back again, but the one that stays in my memory the most is Peisey Vallandry, a wonderfully inaccessible village perché on the side of a mountain, seemingly unsullied by tourists, inhabited by families who’d lived there for generations, who farmed the land in summer and who piste-bashed their way through the winter months. Always a hint of wood smoke in the air, always a weather-worn smile of welcome at the local shops.

But after a trip to Samoëns, I’ve got a feeling I’ve fallen for it in much the same way. The skiing is great and well connected (part of Grand Massif) but, to be honest, it’s a bit clunky getting from town to the slopes. It’s not insurmountable but the convenience of newer resorts is lacking. Hang on, though, I’m talking about falling in love here – and common sense never played a part in that!

Booking a ski trip is a head/heart situation. If you’re choosing with your head, sure, go for the high-rise, ski-in-ski-out resorts – there are plenty of them! But, if you want to fall a bit in love with your ski resort, you’ll need to go to Samoëns.

Un coup de coeur in Samoëns

It’s hard to explain why some things tug at your heart strings while some things don’t do it for you at all. And, bold francophile that I am, I’m going to give you a few illustrations of why I loved it so.

It’s really French. Many ski resorts, some of which I also love dearly (yes, that’s you, Les Gets) feel culturally homogenous, just a bit international, in comparison to Samoëns. It’s like a stubborn French lady who refuses to chuck out her stale bread, or an obstinate fromager who would not allow a crumbly cheddar over his threshold. It really is just so French there.

It’s old. The name Samoëns dates from the early 12th century and is said to derive from a word meaning ‘the seven mountains’. The locals here are known as ‘septimontain(e)s’ and the boulangeries in town do a fantastic cake that is reminiscent of a bakewell tart that is called just that.

It’s the only French mountain resort classified as a national heritage site (Caisse Nationale des Monuments Historiques) and its church, according to records, dates from the 12th century, although was finally completed in 1555. The village has a long history of stonemasonry; many of the buildings survive today, like the pillared and covered marketplace in the main square. Older still is Le Gros Tilleul, an ancient and imposing lime tree, planted in the square in the mid-1400s.

A friendly ski resort

It has character. We saw it all. From oompapa bands in the town square, swing music serenades at the bottom of the gondola in the mornings, chunky wooden games in the marketplace, crazy people on stilts leading a NYE parade around the streets.

It’s so friendly. Never has that stereotypically rude-French rep seemed so wrong-footed. We couldn’t believe how nice everyone we met was. No sign of frustration at the tourist-heavy queues, no annoyance at the lack of language skills, the people in shops, manning lifts, running ski schools, serving in cafés and restaurant were unfailingly friendly.

It’s not chic. It doesn’t have schmanzy bars serving Apero Spritz and sharing platters. To give you an idea, we were regulars at two bars on the main square: Bar Le Samoëns and Bar Le Savoie. All you hear are French voices (even during a school holiday peak week). Think standard French bar, lots of seats, big TV playing sport, waiter zooming around, tray aloft.

A bit of a drag

No-one and nowhere is perfect, and I’ve hinted already that it’s a bit of a drag (‘scuse the pun) to get to the slopes from Samoëns town. So, the key is to make things as easy as possible for yourselves. In terms of planning, I recommend prioritising your accommodation and hiring ski kit wisely too.

So, for lodging. If you don’t want to walk even a little bit, I advise getting somewhere close to the gondola.

At the end of a great day’s skiing, if we didn’t feel like walking there were free ski buses. We would peel off on foot to the town to buy the evening meal and have an après-ski drink – or two – on the way. Poulet roti and baguettes tucked under our arms, the walk back is just lovely.

Getting kitted out

We hired our kit from a wonderful family business – called Roland Gay – with branches in town and on the plateau too. Roland himself is hands on and works alongside his impeccable team of experts. The kit is top notch. We also took advantage of one of Roland’s heated lockers on the mountain. Just 30 metres down a short slope from the top of the Grand Massif Express (GME) cable car, our locker meant we could leave skis, boots, helmets, bags, poles overnight, making the walk and the cable car (almost) effortless.

If you want a heated locker, you have to book well in advance for peak weeks.

There are many ski hire options everywhere. Extreme Glisse, for instance, is another good option right at the bottom of the gondola that is worth a look.

What’s the skiing like in Samoëns?

You take the GME cable car from just outside Samoëns village. It takes a few minutes to get up through the fluff before you float to an eyeball-burning winter wonderland that’s inconceivable below the cloud level. It’s a mecca for beginners with loads of nursery slopes, easy Blues and drag lifts.

If you’re an experienced skier, there’s not much on this plateau – you’ll need to take an express chairlift called the Charmiande Express which hoists you out of Samoëns and into the realms of Les Carroz, Flaine, Morillion and Sixt. This connecting lift is quick but it creates a potential bottleneck; there is probably a 10-minute queue when things are at their busiest.

So, you need to wise up and time your approach. Get there early and take advantage of myriad pistes over the hill. You have to return to Samoëns1600 if you’re dropping kids at ski school in the afternoon and then it’s hard to avoid queues as bibbed infants and liberated parents descend on the Express at the same time after drop off. My advice: drop your kids bang on time and flee before the rush.

Coming back in time for the last cable car down to town is another pinch point, as there are certain lifts you HAVE to use to get home and everyone is doing it at the same times. Not only once did I yearn for the option to ski down to town at the end of the day. The queue to get back to town at 16:45 was the part of Samoëns ski that we didn’t enjoy. Tired children, cold children, long waits, stamped-on feet, passive aggressive behaviour, the distant lure of vin chaud.

Impressive ski area

Niggles aside, the ski area is impressive – great for beginners and early intermediates. In school holidays, the blue runs got busy and it was sometimes a bit of a bunfight, especially at the top of pistes before people dispersed. Reds were a different experience, and when we got to grips with the slopes on offer we found fantastic snowparks and off-piste potential.

There are plenty of pistes above the tree line but we also enjoyed Les Carroz with its tree-lined pistes. I skied down a very long blue with a divine scent of Boeuf Bourgignon in my nostrils, wafting up from a restaurant at the base. Considering there was no snowfall while we were there (and a lot of sun), the pistes held up well and were entirely skiable every day.

Ski lessons for kids at Samoëns

We booked our kids’ ski lessons which consisted of small groups for 2.5 hours, well-judged levels and fab instruction. Our two were working for their Gold and Diamond badges so there was a mix of technique and fun through the week. They were the kind of lessons that have you looking at your kids and marvelling at how confident they’ve become.

Eating out in Samoëns

Down to brass tacks now, here are my notes on nosh, starting with a general point on piste eating: there aren’t many cafés on the slopes in this ski area compared to other places we’ve been, so you need to time pitstops and toilet trips well.

Restaurant Lou Caboëns. It’s on the right slightly back on yourself coming out of the GME – there’s a restaurant with a good rep (but you need to book ahead) and a popular outdoor snack bar. Good price too – but get there early for lunch as the queues get long!

La Gamelle is a snack bar on the plateau. A nice spot, out of the way of passing skiers, and you catch the late afternoon sun. Basic, but decent and good value. Seating is mostly outside.

Croc Blanc. Beautiful views but no loos – that rhymes! This is the only lunch spot at the top of the Charniande Express/Tete des Saix lifts. The spaghetti carbonara was delicious and beautifully decorated with artistic carrot shavings, and we also had good croque monsieur and fries here.

Shopping for self-caterers

As for the food options in Samoëns village, these are our stand-out spots:

Boulangerie Tiffanie. There are at least two branches – one at the bottom of the GME and one right in the village centre. They do excellent baguettes and fantastic cakes from the Exotika passion fruit pud, to the local septimontain tarts, and not forgetting the oreillettes, wafer-thin, crunchy bread sheets sprinkled with icing sugar.

Traiteur Le Pied de Poule. Restaurant-quality meals for tired people who don’t want to go out to eat – on various days we ate their lasagne, regional cooked sausage called diots, a gorgeous canard, dauphinoise potatoes and, of course, poulet roti

AltiPizz – lovely thin base and excellent toppings. Take away or eat in – just off the main square

The supermarkets in town can get packed, particularly on weekends. There is a Carrefour 2km away: a quick drive or a lovely walk through a lakeside park and frosty woodland.

More on Samoëns

Summer fun – Samoëns  is not just for skiers
5 springtime activities to try in Samoëns 
Why Samoëns is perfect for adventurers
Samoëns tourism: www.samoens.com/en

Rachel Ifans is a British journalist and editor, covering a wide range of lifestyle and travel subjects, but she always returns to her first love, France.

The post Guide to family skiing in Samoëns, French Alps appeared first on The Good Life France.

Not everyone who loves mountains and snow, likes to ski all day long. So what is there that doesn’t involved racing down those snowy white slopes? Here are our top tips for non-ski activities that will make your cheeks rosy and mean you can really enjoy the snow without the skis! From adrenaline-fueled to totally chilled…

Fabulous and fun things for non-skiers to do in Les Arcs

Snow-shoeing and hiking

In my search for off piste adventure, I headed into the forest to give snow shoeing a try. Snow-shoeing is diverse, brilliant fun and not as hard as you may think. You need a good pair of boots and a guide who will supply you with snow-shoes and poles.

My first guide was Antoine who offers a whole host of snow-shoeing and hiking activities (www.baladesducolporteur.com). You can snow-shoe for as little as an hour or for a whole week. There’s a wonderful day long snow-shoe hike which involves a fondue lunch at an Alpine chalet. Plus, there’s night snow-shoeing. And, an overnight option to sleep in a log cabin in the mountains.

Antoine’s style is pretty relaxed. He clearly knows these mountains and their heritage well, and he’ll soon have you snow-jumping, and bouncing down steep descents which you never thought you’d be capable of. Although perhaps his most impressive feat is producing a large and delicious cake from his backpack along with hot tea at 2,000m!

With Mont Blanc in the distance, you can walk in the Mont Blanc forest, in the Beaufortain mountains opposite Les Arcs and up the Petit St Bernard pass along the French Italian border. Antoine caters for varying levels of fitness and stops often – to point out a bird, a particular tree or a mountain. And nothing beats the fact that you’re high up and off the beaten track, in amongst the pines, listening to the silence of the snowy mountains.

Nordic Walking

My second guide, Marie was much more spiritual (Facebook: Marie.Randos). A botanist, Marie’s style of snow shoeing resembled Nordic walking as she taught us to use our poles and ensure we got a full body work out. Marie explained the energy of the forest, the detail of the botany and we stopped to practice Qigong, yoga and meditation along the way. It was just as enjoyable as snow-shoeing with Antoine but a very different experience.

Visit La Passerelle

With its peak at over 3226m, the Aiguille Rouge is the highest peak in the Paradiski valley, and they’ve just installed a breath-taking viewing platform, La Passerelle.

To get there, you just take the Varet cable car from Arc 2000 – although check the weather first because it’s not always open. At the peak, you feel like you’re stepping into air as you enjoy 360-degree views across the top of the mountains. But beware, it’s cold at the top – even if it’s warm and sunny below!

Dog sledding

If you’re not sure you want to spend a whole week in the peaceful serenity of the mountains on foot, don’t despair, you can still get your adrenalin fix. From December to April, you can go dog sledding with a team of Alaskan Huskies, including a discovery trip and night rides. en.paradisled.com/

Tobogganing galore

And how does 3 km of toboggan track with banked turns, alternating fast and sliding sections sound? Impossibly hard for the beginner (I seemed to do most of it backwards), you do need a valid lift pass but it makes an interesting change to skiing! www.lesarcs-peiseyvallandry.ski

Relax at the Nama Springs

Tucked away in Eden Arc 1800m, is the Nama Springs spa. It has a hammam, four different saunas, a salt flotation pool and two outdoor pools. On a cold day, be warned that while swimming in the snow is wonderful, you’ll need nerves of steel to strip off and dance through the ice to get in and out of the pool.

Club Med

The Club Med Les Arcs Panorama resort opened in December 2018. It seems to melt into the mountainside of Les Arcs 1600. The inclusive resort has got pretty much everything you could expect and beyond. Snacks and drinks waiting for you as you ski off the piste. There’s food and drink of every description and an endless supply of jollity and entertainment. And, of course, kids’ ski classes and a locker service that’ll have your kit ready to hit the slopes the moment you arrive. If you’re here with your family, they really have got all bases covered! And off piste there’s an open-air jacuzzi and spa facilities.

Lunch with a view

Chalet de l’Arc (Arc 2000). The joy of Les Arcs is that it’s largely pedestrianised and you can walk to this altitude restaurant across the slopes. It’s set in an original farm building and oozes local charm. The portion sizes are gigantean. And, the local speciality “Le Chausson du Boulanger” (particularly Le Savoyard one made with cabbage, sour cream, Beaufort cheese and sausage) is a must. Although, you will never fit into your salopettes again!

By the time you feel ready to roll down the mountain, it’ll be time to head back to Club Med for a 4-course dinner! But at least with all the activities you’ve done, you feel like you’ve earned it!

Apres-ski

Arc 1800 is the liveliest village for night life and bars. For something a bit different head to the Village Igloo at Arc 2000. Open from 09.00-17.00 a unique ice grotto, bar and restaurant plus mini hotel where you can enjoy an icy aperitif. Complete with ice sculpture and carvings it’s a fun visit. From 19h they offer evening activities including an overnight stay and fondue dinner. Wrap up warm for this one – it’s chilly in the igloo!

And, for those who can’t resist a ski session, Les Arcs’ slopes are seriously varied. Whatever level you’re at from beginner to expert, there’s something to suit all. Les Arcs is part of the huge Paradiski area, with stunning views to Mont Blanc and all villages are ski-in/ski-out.

You can find out more about Les Arcs at: www.france-montagnes.com; UKFrancefr

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Take a tour of France that doesn’t involve a bus or multiple hotel room changes. Discover the most beautiful beaches of France and go sailing without millionaire prices. Have an adventure on your own, with friends or with family. A sailing holiday is a lot of fun and a great way to make new friends…

The answers to all your sailing holiday in France questions.

Are sailing holidays affordable if you have a budget? What is included in the booking price?

There are several different types of sailing holidays. The sort where you relax and cruise or holidays where you get more involved and become part of the crew. Some ships offer an individual berth or cabin, meaning guests can share their sailing holiday with like-minded people, and in doing so, share the cost. Some companies add on general boat expenses such as fuel and mooring fees. Each holiday is unique – you can even find experiences with a hostess and a dedicated chef.

Do I have to share a cabin with someone on a sailing holiday?

Many holidays offer the option to book a single spot (or berth), a whole cabin, or the entire boat! So, depending on whether you’re travelling solo, as a couple, a family, or group of friends – there is a form of reservation to suit you! Many solo travellers do share cabins. But, if you’re looking for a little more privacy, and would like a cabin to yourself – simply let the organising skipper know, and he will propose a cabin price.

As a total novice and travelling solo, where is best for me to learn sailing in France?

The French coast is diverse and rich, which makes it a privileged playground for sailing. In fact, depending on the region you choose, your cruise will be very different!

For beginners who want to acquire some basics, and maybe discover a passion, I would recommend the South of France and more precisely the French Riviera. The calm waters of the Mediterranean Sea are ideal for beginners who have always dreamed of hoisting the mainsail, tucking in the genoa and learning to steer! In addition, the picturesque ports of the region allow you to practice your manoeuvres.

You can for example, head to Hyères and the Porquerolles Islands for a sailboat cruise. Here you’ll discover one of the most beautiful natural paradises on the French Riviera. Imposing cliffs interspersed with creeks, turquoise waters, warm southern sunshine, the sweetness of the Mediterranean and the charm of Provence are combined to offer you a superb holiday. While teaching you the basics of navigation, your skipper will help you discover the charm and glamour of the colourful villages of the Côte d’Azur’s seaside. Always attentive, the skipper will be delighted to share his knowledge with you and answer your questions.

Where would you recommend for a sailing trip in France for two friends who like adventure?

For the more experienced sailors, Brittany’s coast can be an attractive destination for those with a taste for adventure and for those looking for a challenge.  The tide, currents, numerous rocks and islands add a spice of complexity. You can enjoy excellent sailing conditions with wind, a temperate climate and landscapes that change with the rhythm of the tides. For example sail in the Gulf of Morbihan and its many islands and islets, the island of Groix, Belle Ile, the islands of Houat and Hoëdic. Or choose the Finistère, with Concarneau, the island of Sein, the bay of Audierne, the Crozon peninsula and the Glénan archipelago. On these two magnificent water bodies, all the elements are gathered for technical learning in complete safety, in an iridescent landscape of changing lights and colours.

I’m a mum with two teenagers – is a sailing holiday a good idea?

One of the positives of sailing holidays is the flexibility.

• Choosing to travel alone, or share the boat with another family
• Having the freedom to adapt and tweak the itinerary with your skipper to suit your needs and wishes
• Being able to drop anchor or stop in a harbour and go ashore to explore the coastal towns at your leisure
• Enjoy time as a family, allow the kids to explore beaches, snorkel, or do water-sports

It is this personalisation of sailing holidays that makes them original family adventures. They can be tailored to the style and characteristics of you and your family.

What different kind of sailing experiences are available?

There are many different formats of sailing trip available, and in hundreds of different destinations, in every ocean around the world! As well as holidays that are centred around relaxation, exploring destinations and cultures, there are also flotillas (groups of boats sailing together), regattas and races, adventure-centric trips, sport & wellness infused sailing trips (that include activities such as yoga, water-sports, and hiking), and trips that are focused on learning how to sail.

I want a sailing holiday where I can learn a little bit about sailing. But really I want to relax – is that possible? Where should I go?

There are plenty of stunning sailing destinations in Brittany and along the French Riviera.  Great areas if you can combine learning to sail with some heavy relaxation in a beautiful setting. The French island of Corsica that lies to the south east of the French mainland also has some idyllic locations. Bonifacio and the Lavezzi Islands that face Sardinia and the Maddalena Archipelago being particularly popular for family holidays!

Want to pick up some sailing knowledge, or sharpen your skills? Send the skipper organising the trip you are interested in a message and let him know. Skippers are truly passionate about sailing and are usually delighted to share their expertise!

Are there sailing holidays suitable for a group of 10 friends?

Groups of this size have a couple of exciting options! You can make a whole boat reservation on a boat that is big enough to host 10 travellers. On each holiday listing, there is a section towards the bottom that shows some information about the boat. In this case, a catamaran would be perfect. Most catamarans have at least 4 large cabins. There’s often plenty of communal space, including a netting on the front of the boat. Perfect for those looking to relax!

Another option for a group of this size would be joining in a flotilla trip. Flotillas usually contain between 2 and 10 boats, all following the same itinerary. This sort of trip is great if you are looking to have an adventure with friends. It’s also good for making new friends.

Happy sailing!

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Bobbing about on the sea was never more fun than now. Never more accessible either. And never as easy to find the perfect sailing holiday off the coast of France for you. And, there are prices to suit every budget.

You’ll find every sort of sailing holiday in France. From Corsica to the Mediterranean, from Normandy and Brittany to the Arcachon basin. You might be amazed at the many types of sailing holidays there are. Learn to sail breaks for a weekend or longer to relaxing tours, wellness, flotilla, catamaran and more!

France is the perfect place for those wanting to learn to sail with thousands of miles of coastline. Maybe you’re a complete beginner and just want to learn the ropes, set sail and then relax. Or you may want to take your skipper exams. The key to happiness is choosing the sailing course that’s right for you. Whether you’re travelling solo, a couple, friends or family – there’s a sailing holiday to suit you. You’ll be coached by professionals and have fun as well as learning. There’s also lots of time to swim, snorkel and explore on land.

Learn to sail holidays in France

Soak up the ambiance and sublime scenery from on board your boat – priceless but it doesn’t have to be expensive (even in the summer months) …

Family sailing holidays in France

What’s an ideal family holiday for those with teens? You guessed right – sailing holidays are just about perfect. It’s a great way to bond as you get engrossed in learning about sailing and enjoy working as a team whilst having a real adventure. If your teens like to capture those perfect moments and send selfies to their friends – they’re going to be happy onboard. There’s not much that beats relaxing on the deck of “your” boat and diving into the clear blue waters of the Med. You’ll be stopping at ports along the French Riviera, snorkelling along the coast of Brittany… You get the picture, and so will your kids. With safety first, experienced and patient skippers, the stunning coastline of France and a wide range of experiences to choose from, you’ll make memories to cherish.

Corsica Sailing holidays

Join the ranks of the international yachting crowd who sail around the gorgeous island of Corsica and indulge in a holiday you’ll never forget. Corsica sailing holidays range from relaxed cruising for a week or more, one day discovery tours, wellness break, marine life. There’s even the chance to participate in the famous Calvi on the Rock Festival with its moonlit beach concerts.

Dive into the glittering waters, laze in secluded coves on silky white sand and explore secret grottoes. Wander the little streets of Corsica’s most beautiful seaside towns and dine on rustic fare flavoured with herbs and the freshest fish, washed down with local, chilled wine.

What’s not to love!

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If the idea of a sailing holiday in France floats your boat and you thought it might be too expensive or only for couples and groups – think again. No longer are sailing trips the preserve of the rich and famous. And, if you’re travelling solo you don’t have to share a cabin with a stranger. France offers a huge range of sailing holidays, from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic.

Learn to sail in France – or just cruise and relax

France is spoilt for choice when it comes to beautiful seaside cities and towns and stunning beaches. Plus there are islands galore from the picturesque islets which pepper the Gulf of Morbihan to the larger sunshine island of Corsica. Taking a tour by water is one of the most fun and exhilarating ways to experience the coastal beauty of the legendary French coastline from the French Riviera to Brittany and Normandy, Corsica and the Cote d’Azur.

Hiring a boat with or without a crew is expensive. However, lots of holiday companies offer trips where join like-minded travellers on a boat with a skipper and crew or join a skipper and be part of the crew and it really isn’t going to blow your budget.

Sailing holidays for solos, couples and families

Most sailing holidays require you to share a cabin. But, some do offer single berth breaks – check the details when you’re searching. It’s an ideal way to have an adventure. Some companies also offer you the chance to check in advance who your fellow passengers will be. It’s a great way to make new friends.

It’s also a perfect holiday for couples and families, especially teens, as there’s so much to do. Take part in the navigation and running of the boat if you want. Relax if you don’t. Sailing holidays range from a day, perhaps cruising the Bay of Arcachon, to a weekend, a week or longer. And for some holidays you can even book the whole boat.

Enjoy lazy hours on deck soaking up the sun. Swim and snorkel in secluded coves and relax on remote beaches which you’ll have all to yourself. Discover a new location every day from the well known hotspots such as Antibes and Saint Tropez or less well known destinations such as gorgeous Porquerolles. Time to explore the places where you dock is built into many tours according to what sort of sailing holiday you want and where. You’ll get the chance to enjoy fabulous lunches and dinners ashore or on board.

Learn to Sail holidays

You don’t need sailing qualifications to join a trip. But, if you want to learn about sailing, there are loads of courses available. From Normandy to the French Riviera you can join a boat holiday where you’ll lean to read maps, navigate the tides, deal with strong currents, address sail settings and steer the boat.

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If you crave beautiful Alpine runs, dramatic mountain backdrops, sun, fantastic ski conditions and lovely wide pistes – then you’ll certainly be in your element if you follow in our snowy footsteps to Meribel.

Meribel – Picturesque resort

As a seasoned skier, and regular visitor to the Alps over the last decade, I’m no stranger to the vast beauty of this stunning, snow-capped mountain range. But what I wasn’t expecting, on my family’s latest winter visit here, was to be so taken with the ski resort of Meribel.

Located in the middle of the largest ski area in the world, The Three Valleys boasts a ski area four times greater than the surface area of Paris. We enjoyed the best week of ski-ing we’ve ever had in the French Alps at this picturesque resort. It ticked so many boxes for my family-of-four – both on, and off-piste.

Boasting a global reputation for being one of safest places in the world to ski, the resort’s been such a hit with Brits – a third of its visitors are British – it’s even earned the nickname of “Little England on the Alps”.

Skiing at Meribel

Ski conditions here are so great because 85% of the resort is based at 1800 metres above sea level, with its 150k of pistes, accessible on a local area pass, reaching its highest peak at 2952m. But, if you plump for a Three Valleys pass, then you’ll be able to reach runs at an even higher 3230m peak and explore an impressive 600km of beautiful pistes across 335 runs.

This includes runs on the other side of Meribel, within easy reach at Courchevel, and if you have got time to venture slightly further afield, you can also ski at Val Thoren and Les Menuires.

It’s easy to see why Meribel is such a hit with families and intermediate skiers. The bulk of its 68 runs are either blue or red –  6 green, 30 blue, 25 red and 7 black. And, it’s extremely easy to traverse the slopes by tackling just green and blue runs if you’re ski-ing with young children, or beginners, in tow. There are even “Family Cool” signs indicating safe and easy pistes for families with a mix of abilities.

Off piste at Meribel

Meribel also has dedicated sledging experiences, fun snow parks, secured freeride areas, reserved racing areas and dedicated ski touring slopes.

When it comes to sledging there’s a rather exhilarating run called Mission Black Forest (you pay per run here, including sledge hire, so it can be a pricey option). Or there’s a weekly evening sledge ride, (rent a sledge and get a ticket at Coombes lift) which is great value for money, and more to the point, fabulous fun. To make life even easier, the sledge run, which was also a green ski run in the day, even ran past the hotel where we were staying – which was virtually ski in ski out (a one minute walk from the ski room to the piste’s edge).

If you’re a foodie, you’ll be in your element here. There are some great options for lunch on the piste, including the fantastic Le Plan des Mains at Les Allues. We enjoyed fabulous homemade delights here including homemade breads and cakes, and mains included succulent steaks to power us on for an afternoon of ski-ing.

There’s a choice of a host of activities to indulge in such as igloo building. At the resort leisure centre, Parc Olympic, you can enjoy a range of activities from a relaxing massage to sooth those achy legs to swimming and skating on its Olympic-size ice rink. A completely new experience for us was ski-joring. It’s basically ski-ing while you are being pulled by a horse (or it could be by dogs) that you have to steer (or try to!). It was fast, exhilarating, and I’d definitely do it again as would my teenaged son and husband, who were fans of this newfound activity. While we enjoyed an introductory lesson in the safety of a penned in snowy paddock with Le Coeur Equestre Des 3 Vallees, once you’ve honed your skills you can even venture onto selected pistes, for extended fun.

Driving to Meribel

Getting to and from Meribel, was straight forward. We enjoyed a smooth sailing with DFDS from Dover to Calais with priority boarding and very comfortable priority lounge access, which included free drinks, snacks, and day beds to put your feet up on. And, while there are airports nearer to the resort of Meribel, travelling by ferry and car, even adding on the tolls you’ll need to pay en route, driving is still, more often than not, the cheaper option.

But facing a near nine-hour car journey is a daunting one, so I would recommend breaking the journey up with an overnight stay somewhere near the half way mark, which is exactly what we did. I can highly recommend a stay in the beautiful city of Dijon, and a meal at Maison Milliere restaurant based in one of Dijon’s oldest houses.

Situated behind the Cathedral of Notre Dame – make sure you follow the lucky carved owl trail around it – the food here is fantastic, the service was excellent and the historic building intriguing too. On the way back we stopped off at Hotel Les Remparts in Rue de Verdun, Chaumont, Haut-Marne, Champagne, which was full of character.

All in all, Meribel is now our favourite French ski resort!

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Dropping “my last ski trip was a short break in Arêches-Beaufort” into any ski based conversation is a bit of a polarising moment. The enlightened will beam from ear to ear, talk about the charm of the village, the enviable quality – and quantity – of the snow. And, inevitably, the wonderful cheese cooperative in the centre of the town. Others, however, will either assume they have misheard, or that you are making it all up and you’ve never skied in your life. Beaufort is a cheese. Or possibly a wind scale. But – a ski resort?

So why bother? If you want pumping techno, Jaeger bombs and general carnage each evening, just don’t. This quiet, year round village community is categorically not for you. If you appreciate a genuine welcome from the locals, good French food (followed by home-made Genepi, of course) and picturesque skiing, then book your trip without delay.  The topography means Arêches has an excellent snow fall record. We were skiing in fresh powder in the last few days before the resort closed. On our last morning we saw less than 10 other skiers enjoying pristine conditions and it really felt like the mountain was ours.

Skiing – the next small thing…

Arêches is a relatively short transfer (usually under two hours) from Geneva. At the time of writing, the only UK tour operator featuring the resort, Ski Weekender, will pick you up from Arrivals and take you there, door to door. In line with their (unofficial) strapline “Just leave your brain in Geneva”, a full area lift pass will be waiting for you in the hotel, with dinner, bed and breakfast included and ski hire on site. It’s a well thought through package, designed to get you skiing as fast as possible, with the minimum of fuss.

Time on the slopes is all the more precious on a short break. To get the most from your limited stay in an unfamiliar area I would strongly suggest booking an instructor/guide through the local ESF (Ecole Ski Francais). Again, Ski Weekender can help organise this for you. They will show you the best runs on the mountain for your ability (and the conditions). And they will make sure you end up at the best restaurant or lift at the end of the session. It may also give you unofficial access to the warm ESF locker room at the top of the main lift. This means you don’t have to carry your skis, poles and boots up every morning (and back).

Ski, snowshoe and mindfulness in the mountains

Our ski guide, Michel, was Arechois through and through. A farmer during the summer, a ski guide in winter and one of the original founders of the cooperative that now produces the wonderful Beaufort cheese. He took my family and I, both on skis and snowshoes (Raquette), on a veritable tour of the mountain during our short stay. He stopped to point out notable viewpoints and where his cattle grazed in the summer. We experienced crisp, clean air, amazing views, interesting flora and fauna and, at times, almost total silence. If mindfulness and being close to nature is your route to relaxation then Arêches-Beaufort should undoubtedly be on your list.

Where to stay in Arêches-Beaufort

Ski Weekender offer a couple of accommodation options for their short breaks in Arêches Beaufort including the Hotel Christiania in the heart of the village. Our rooms were spacious, very comfortable and offered views on to the wooded lower slopes. Inclusive evening meals were taken in the hotel’s restaurant. It’s a traditional and very welcoming place, well populated with locals eating out (always a good sign). Breakfast was a hearty pre-ski array of meats, cheese, fruit salad, breads and pastries. Thereafter it’s a five minute walk to the lifts. Arêches is an Alpine village, not a purpose built ski resort. There are shops, restaurants, small bars and bakeries, with prices for the basics more realistic as a result. But you don’t have ski in/out convenience.

There’s a lot happening in Arêches-Beaufort at the moment. In addition to a planned new lift linking both sides of the ski area opening for the 19/20 season, there is a new self-catering accommodation complex and a spa. It will never claim to be the next big thing, but it definitely could be the next small thing. A really worthy destination for a relatively exclusive ski short break.

View from a non-skier

I love the mountains in winter, but I’m not a skier. Personally, I can’t think of anything worse. But in Arêches-Beaufort there is plenty of scope to enjoy the beauty of unspoiled mountains at a much more leisurely pace.

Or so I thought. Anyone who thinks snowshoeing is an easy option hasn’t tried it. It’s a real workout, quite literally breath-taking (maybe it was the altitude?) and gives a whole new perspective on the mountains. We used the surprisingly empty green runs, as well as cross country routes. The whole experience took a magical turn when Michel pointed out an eagle circling overhead. Even he doesn’t see them that often so we felt incredibly lucky.

Cheese and lots to do

The following day, while the others returned to the slopes, I enjoyed the small, but very lovely spa in the village. Feeling relaxed, refreshed and reunited with the clan, we went for an afternoon in the cheese factory. It’s fascinating, with a film show and displays explaining how farmers, like Michel, adapted to change by joining together to keep their traditional way of life alive.  Beaufort cheese is delicious, with a flavour that varies slightly according to the time of year and what the cows are eating. Despite its delicate flavour, the room in which the cheeses are matured is overpoweringly, eye wateringly, pungent.

Arêches Beaufort village is a year round French community, without the international, sometimes transient feel of a large resort. As such there really is so much more than skiing available on a ski holiday there, even for the skiers themselves.

Fact Box

Tour operator Ski Weekender (www.skiweekender.com) offer long weekend and mid-week short breaks, as well as week-long holidays and double domain specials, to a range of French resorts, mostly within one hour transfer of Geneva. Transfers, accommodation, lift pass and meals are included in the price, with equipment hire available in house. Other resorts available include Le Grand Bornand, La Clusaz, Samoens, St Gervais and Les Contamines.

By keen skier Paddy Daly and non-skiing wife Sarah Daly who blogs at mychtilife.wordpress.com

Find more inspiration to visit this lovely area of France at: areches-beaufort.com

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