Hyères in the Cote d’Azur, southern France has it all – sun, sea, sand, stunning architecture, superb restaurants, delicious local wines and the chance to go island hopping says local Aaron James.

A sunny ‘Belle Epoque’ town of the French Riviera, this beautiful coastal hub boasts 2,400 years of history and is home to remarkable natural heritage such as the National Park of Port-Cros and the Ile d’Or Archipelago.

History lovers will adore the intricate medieval quarter and ancient Greek archaeological site. There are perfect conditions for water sports and remarkable wildlife for those who love the outdoors. And if you want to relax by the sea, you’re totally spoilt for choice with numerous coves and glorious soft sand beaches spread along the Presqu’île de Giens and its islands.

Few foreign tourists choose to holiday in Hyères, opting instead for the town’s glitzy neighbour St Tropez. While this won’t mean that hotels and restaurants are empty (it’s a favourite with the French), it certainly means that the area possesses a more authentic, ‘unspoilt’ feeling.

Here’s what to see and do in Hyères and it’s islands…

A little bit of history

As the oldest resort on the French Riviera, it is hardly surprising that the town is steeped in history. You can’t help but marvel at the remains of the Hellenic city of Olbia, established in 4BC, or at the ancient Greek archaeological site near Almanarre beach. Meanwhile, just up the road, there was a Romans settlement at Pomponiana.

Pass through the Porte de la Rade, erected in the late twelfth century, and you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped back in time as you stroll the town’s medieval winding streets and ogle the centuries old houses. Don’t miss the Tour de Blaise as you check out the delicious delicatessens and lively fishmongers, artisan shops and booksellers en route. Also known as the Tour des Templiers, this tower is the last vestige of a larger chapel constructed by the Knights Templar some eight hundred years ago. Nowadays, it serves as a cultural space and hosts many theatrical shows.

Although in ruins, the castle which overlooks Hyères has not lost its majesty. Gazing across the Provençal countryside, and out towards the peninsula, it’s easy to imagine how it looked in the 16^th century.

Hyères has long attracted artists and writers, including Victor Hugo and R.L. Stevenson, and the 100-year-old this year Villa Noailles, now open to the public, was a magnet for the avant-garde artists of the early 20^th century from Jean Cocteau to Pablo Picasso.

Gastronomy

Being by the sea means that seafood favourites like moules frîtes and bouillabaisse are popular on menus and there are many great restaurants in and around the old town and the Port d’Hyères. Afternoons whiled away here, with a glass of perfectly chilled wine in the sun, is true Riviera living.

 There are lively weekly markets at both Hyères and on the Giens Peninsula where you can find the very best of Provence’s fruit and vegetables, cheeses and plenty of baked goods too.

The Presqu’île

The Presqu’île – a much more romantic way to say peninsula – stretches its reach into the deep blue Mediterranean and is home to several seaside resorts and wild flamingos.

To the west, marvel at kite surfers floating their colourful kites along the 4km long Plage d’Almanarre. And, on especially clear days, you can see the harbours at Toulon and Carqueiranne. The saltmarshes, with their famous flamingos, provide the perfect paths for exhilarating bike rides under pure blue skies. On the eastern side, the unspoilt Badine beach offers the perfect conditions for both thrilling water sports and relaxed sunbathing as well as yoga on the beach.

The island of Porquerolles

At the tip of the Presqu’íle is Tour Fondue, a small port named after its 16th century fort. From here ferries leave daily to the islands off the coast of Hyères. The most famous of them is Porquerolles – often compared to the Caribbean due to its relaxed atmosphere and clear blue waters. Since cars aren’t allowed here, the best way to see the island is by bike – you’ll find plenty of bike hire companies along the harbour.

Although there are restaurants, bars and a hotel on the island, the Plage de Notre Dame is best enjoyed with a hearty picnic of fresh baguette, sundried tomatoes and the cheese you bought from the morning market – and a glass of local rosé.

Get there: Flights operate from Gatwick to Toulon (20 minutes by car), from June to September.

Stay at: Domaine de la Mer, offers hotel rooms, apartments, villas and cottages on the edge of the beach, a little corner of Paradise: domainedelamer.com

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Endless beaches that feature silky sand beaches, shimmering bays, secret coves, and dramatic clifftops. Glorious countryside peppered with welcoming inns and crisscrossed by hiking paths and cycling routes. Fishing, horse riding, water sports and fabulous golf courses. National parks, gorgeous gardens, and historic marshlands. The Pas-de-Calais region is perfect for fans of nature and lovers of the great outdoors and the ideal place to unwind, re-energise, reinvigorate…

Nirvana for nature lovers

Pas-de-Calais is a land of wide-open countryside, uncrowded roads, colourful hillsides, speckled with wildflowers, and a mosaic of fields which run down to the Opal Coast where jagged clifftops overlook beaches where seals relax and frolic in the mineral-rich seawater.

Caps et Marais d’Opale Regional Nature Park

Around 40 minutes by car from Calais lies the market town of Saint-Omer. Well worth a visit for its soaring Cathedral, a Gothic masterpiece full of art including a painting by Rubens, and a vast wooden door which marks the entry of King Louis XIV. It’s a cobble-streeted town of many charms and a fabulous Saturday morning market. It is also home to one of the natural wonders of France – the Audomarois, historic marshlands, part of the Caps et Marais d’Opale Regional Nature Park.

Spread over 22,300 hectares, watered by 700km of canals and home to an abundance of animal species including rare and endangered birds and insects, and hundreds of wildflowers and fauna, the area is a UNESCO listed biosphere reserve.

Monks and Mariners

Uncover the ancient history of the marshes of Saint Omer at the Maison du Marais interpretive centre. Monks in the 7^th century carved channels into the rich, peaty soil of the marshlands so that the land could be cultivated, and there’s still a thriving market garden in this horticultural wonderland. You can tour the marshes by boat (O’Marais by Isnor) and spot a wealth of waterfowl and other wild creatures. This area served as a near-impregnable hideaway for the wartime French Resistance and is the only place in France where the post is delivered by boat! And it’s here that you can visit the workshops of the last traditional wooden boat makers of the marshes

Follow all or part of the 120km long walking route of the Audomarois which takes in the marshlands as well as the forest of Eperlecques, the valley of Aa, the countryside and Arques where there is a famous glass factory. Or relax and hire a boat, float along the peaceful canals, admire the vegetable gardens and stop off for a local feast at La Baguernette – where they serve the best, sweetest, beer tart. Ever.

Two steps from Saint-Omer, the Romelaëre Nature Reserve is a small corner of paradise where you can discover 3 trails, in the heart of a preserved nature, where boarded walkways take you through lily ponds and lakes.

The Opal Coast

The Caps et Marais d’Opale Regional Nature Park also takes in the Opal Coast. A Regional Nature Park is different from a National Park, as the area is inhabited, and it’s aims are to showcase natural, cultural, and human heritage and convert them into tangible factors in the sustainable development of the local area. Along the Opal Coast the area includes the Deux Caps, cliffs known as Blanc-Nez and Gris-Nez (White Nose and Grey Nose) which have Grand Site de France status and jut out over the English Channel opposite their cousin the White Cliffs of Dover which you can clearly spot on a clear day. Below these two cliffs lie 10km of sandy beach, and along the top a coastal path offers jaw-dropping views over the sea and countryside.

Visit the Maison du Site des Deux-Caps where you can hire bikes and discover the history and heritage of the area, the culture, and traditions. You can leave your luggage in lockers here, pick up maps for the area and saddle up for a 118km loop of the route of the Velomaritime which runs along the coast all the way from Dunkirk to Roscoff.

Or take your time and meander the coastal paths of the GR120 alongside dunes and sandy beaches, or head inland to discover unspoiled countryside criss-crossed by a network of thousands of miles of maintained and sign posted trails and traffic free roads.

Seals and seaside delights

At the seaside resort of Berck-sur-Mer, head down to the water’s edge on the south side of the beach on the Baie d’Authie, to see a huge colony of more than 100 wild seals splashing about in the water, lazing about on the sandbanks, and calling out to each other.

Cosy up under a blanket on the hills of the Deux Caps, the Two Cliffs, which overlook the White Cliffs of Dover and enjoy a picnic. Nothing says France more than a baguette with a chunk of cheese or some tasty charcuterie with a glass of wine – or a flask of coffee.

Take in the coastal scenery that inspired the great painter JM Turner and see where Charles Dickens lived in Hardelot where you can visit a castle, Elizabethan-style theatre, and gorgeous gardens. Follow the ‘Painter’s Path’ at Wissant or the ‘Fisherman’s Trail’ at Audresselles. Head to Le Touquet Paris-Plage, where little has changed since the heady days of the early 19^th century, when this little resort was the place to go for the jet setters of the world. Climb the great dunes of Slack, ride an e-bike along the coastal roads and suck in the invigorating sea air. Stop off for some heavenly grub – a fishy dish at a traditional fishermen’s café, a rich and robust stew at a Flemish Inn, or a local beer.

Explore the countryside

Explore the steadily expanding network of Voies Vertes cycling trails criss-crossing Pas-de-Calais’s countryside. Take it easy pootling along Béthune and Aire-sur-la-Lys’s gentle canal towpaths; or combine nature and history on the Véloroute 32 Remembrance Trail, which winds its way past key memorial sites, war cemeteries, monuments, and museums from Arras to the city of Amiens in the neighbouring Somme department.

Wherever you’re headed, keep your eyes peeled for the Accueil Vélo© signs flagging up bike-friendly accommodation and restaurants, charging points and rental and repair shops.

For somewhere a bit different, Lens’ UNESCO listed slag heaps, left behind after the demise of the mining industry are now a haven of nature. You walk, cycle, explore nature and inspect the vines – yes vines are growing on these inky rockscapes, and even ski! Perched 129m atop one of Noeux-les-Mines’ slag, it may not rival the Alps’ powdery pistes, but it is the only run in Europe open year-round.

Fresh air and forests

Meanwhile forest fans will enjoy the wooded wonders of Pas-de-Calais from the immense forest of Desvres where ash trees, oaks, beeches, and hornbeams thrive (and legend has is that the Romans planted the garlic that carpets the forest floor), to the Rihoult forest in Clairmarais, Saint Omer where with luck you’ll spot the deer and herons who drink from the ponds. The national forest of Guînes is an Instagrammer’s joy with its colourful flowerbeds dotted with chestnut trees make it perfect for beautiful photos, as is the great forest of Hesdin which is at its best in autumn – full of vibrant jewel-like colour.

In the wooded hills behind Calais and Boulogne, tinkling brooks course through the picturesque Seven Valleys, a rural idyll where cows graze in lush meadows and are driven down the narrow lanes to the milking parlour while roses seem to grow around every cottage doorway and rolling fields are seasonally filled with blood red poppies in one of Mother Nature’s most spectacular displays.

The countryside of Pas-de-Calais is just perfect for picnics and country walks and cycling.

Relax and unwind on the golf course

This region is great for golfers with a dozen golf courses to choose from. Crowd-free fairways, stunning coast, glorious countryside, sea views that stop you in your tracks, or deep in the forest and valleys. Golf course La Mer in Le Touquet (18 holes) is rated in the top one 100 courses in continental Europe. It has fabulous views over the sea, plus a great clubhouse. Also along the coast you’ll find La Forêt (18 holes), Le Manoir (9 holes) and Wimereux (see the website golfencotedopale.com), while at Arras, just a few minutes from the historic city, the French Women’s Open has been hosted on numerous occasions at the 18-hole La Vallée, plus there is also the 9-hole Les Aubébines.

Pick up a Golf Pass which covers a round of golf at five of the seven 18-hole courses along the Opal Coast (€290, valid for 15 days, 2023).

Discover loads to see and do, the authentic, unusual and wow factor places of the great outdoors in Pas-de-Calais: visitpasdecalais.com

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Between the magnificent vineyards of Macon in Burgundy and Bourg-en-Bresse Rhone-Alpes, around 50km north of Lyon, lies Vonnas. It’s a small town, with some 3000 residents. But – it is no ordinary small town. It’s here that an extraordinary chef, Georges Blanc, has created an entire gourmet village.

A village dedicated to food. And not just any old food. The best food in France. Two restaurants, one which has 3 Michelin stars, that serve the most delicious dishes accompanied by superb wines. A 5 star hotel and a holiday residence. Plus a magnificent boulangerie/patisserie, wine store and shops dedicated to all things French cuisine – including tableware. Village Blanc in Vonnas is the place to go for foodies.

Village Blanc – a foodie paradise

Chef Georges Blanc is world famous. Visit his 5 star Hôtel Relais & Châteaux Parc & Spa Georges Blanc and you can’t help but notice the walls are  decorated with photos of past guests and those he’s cooked for – presidents, prime ministers, royalty, Hollywood celebrities. But visit the village and you’ll quickly see that it’s not just the rich and the famous who adore his dishes – the village caters to everyone who loves food.

Chef Blanc, who was born in Bourg-en-Bresse in 1943, comes from a chef dynasty – three generations of famous women cooks. His great grandparents 1872 started a lemonade production in Vonnas. Grandmother Elisa Blanc was known as “La Mere Blanc” and voted the best cook in the world by the famous French food critic Curnonsky and was the first in the family to achieve a Michelin star. His mother Paulette was also a great chef who held two Michelin stars. Through a generation of talented cooks, Maison Blanc has been Michelin starred since 1929. Georges Blanc is also a Meilleur Ouvrier de France, an award that recognises the outstanding and extraordinary skills of craftsmen and women. He’s won multiple awards and has held 3 stars since 1981.

Chef Georges Blanc

When I stopped off in Vonnas, you can’t take a gastronomic odyssey of the Vallée de la Gastronomie and not visit this famous foodie town, he invited me into his office for a chat.

“When I was young, I wanted to be a pilot more than anything” he said. I looked around his office, the shelves packed with books, awards, certificates line the walls, his own books are in a pile – he’s written many – recipe books, memories, the sayings he admires collected into a volume of “thoughts”, and more.

“As you can see, it didn’t work out that way – I went into the kitchen instead. J’adore mon metier, I love my job. When people come here I want them to love it,” he said. “Visitors come from all walks of life, but share a common love – good food.”

I asked him what makes a great dish and without hesitation he replied “sauce. Without a good sauce the dish is nothing. Sauces are my signature. Oil, tomatoes, olives, a mix of Mediterranean flavours are essentials. A sauce depends on the time you have, the circumstances you’re cooking in, whether you want something sophisticated or authentic.”

I left his office to wander the village and build up an appetite for lunch. You can’t go to Vonnas and not eat. It would be a sin!

The art of gastronomy

The village hosts a traditional holiday residence and a 42-bed 5 star hotel. Aside from the boulangerie/patisserie, wine store and tableware shop, there’s also a chocolaterie, a butchers shop, cinema and park with, of course, outdoor eating area. Chef Blanc bought his first building here in 1990 and then kept going, with some 30 properties now included as his dream to create a gourmet village kept growing. This place is astonishing. A real tribute to his ancestors, to great gastronomy, to the products of Burgundy. “I’m not done yet” he says “I’ve got a 20-year project (at least) that I want to fulfil!”

L’Esprit Blanc, the Michelin starred restaurant is very refined and sophisticated with a glass cellar that is simply breathtaking. The restaurant holds around 140,000 bottles of wine, the oldest dates to 1845. It’s one of the greatest restaurant cellars in the world, “of course the most popular wine is from Burgundy” I’m told.

L’Ancienne Auberge is quite different. This was the family restaurant and it’s oh so French with red and white check table cloths and vintage furnishings. It has an olde worlde air of authenticity, like stepping back to the days of Chef Blanc’s great grandmother. Until you see the kitchen which is big and open, clearly visible to diners, revealing chefs beavering away at state of the art preparation stations creating traditional and classic dishes.

L’Ancienne auberge of Vonnas

He may be 80 years old, but Chef Blanc shows no signs of slowing down and is as passionate as ever about food and about his gastronomic village. I sat at a table in the auberge, and watched as he arrived, a flurry of excitement ran through the restaurant as guests craned their necks to watch the legendary chef make his way to the kitchen. He beckoned me over and I trotted behind him to the sacred area where the theatre of cooking was in full flow. The whole kitchen was a flurry of activity, heavenly smells and fast working chefs.

“You must have the Bresse chicken, it’s the signature dish here,” Chef Blanc said as I watched wide-eyed as he inspected each station and watched as chefs chopped, grated, sliced, fried, squeezed pipes filled with cream, dripped oils and created plates for the large, full restaurant. “Maybe you would like some frogs legs and escargots too” he said with a smile, before wandering around the restaurant to say hello to guests and pose for photos. People flock from all around the world to spend a night in Village Blanc and experience the gourmet wonders, the ambiance of the hotel and the residence. This pretty little gastro-village is THE place to go for true foodies.

And the sauce served with the Bresse chicken? Divine. You can eat yourself to a standstill here.

Find out more at: georgesblanc.com/en

Discover the hundreds of scrumptious experiences offered along the Vallee de la Gastronomie: valleedelagastronomie.com/en

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

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Nip across the Channel and discover real Pas-de-Calais, a land of authentic fishing villages with a timeless beauty, Belle Epoque seaside resorts, historic towns, and world class cultural attractions…

The Opal Coast – perfect for beach lovers

Strung like pearls, tiny fishing villages and seaside resorts dot the shoreline of the Opal Coast. These hidden gems have long lured tourists, celebrities, royalty, and jet setters, as well as artists drawn to its light-filled beauty. Le Touquet Paris-Plage was once the jet set capital of Europe. It was home to the biggest hotel the world had ever seen in the early 20th century. Impressed by the town’s glamour, Ian Fleming wrote Casino Royale based on Le Touquet’s casino. The Scottish actor Sean Connery signed his first Bond contract there. Charles Dickens loved this area saying, “if only it were but 300 miles further off… how the English would rave about it.”

If you’re sporty – you’ll be in your element. There are activities galore from sailing and horse riding to sand yachting and golf.

If you’re more into culture and history, you’ll be spoiled for choice with festivals and events. Don’t miss the annual crab festival at tranquil Audresselles (June), and the herring festival at historic Etaples (November). Plus there are loads of markets and museums, there’s always something going on.

One of the most beautiful coastal roads of France

And for those who want to relax, the endless sandy beaches are perfect for the whole family. Follow the D940 road around the coast, up and down hills, a route that’s lined with stunning scenery. You’ll pass through authentic fishing villages where you can buy the freshest of just-caught fish from the front gardens of fishermen. Stop off to discover memorials and museums like the Todt Battery, Museum of the Atlantic Wall in Audinghen. Then take in the glorious clifftop scenery as you drop into the lovely seaside town of Wimereux.

Napoleon I was responsible for Wimereux’s development. He commissioned the foundation of a town and a port for his Grand Army. It was from this part of Pas-de-Calias that the Emperor intended to conquer England, clearly visible on clear days from the Opal Coast.

Nearby Merlimont-Plage, once a small fishing village, that became a seaside favourite with Parisians thanks to the arrival of the rail, is ideal for families. You can climb the dunes, visit a nature reserve, and go fishing the French way – on foot with a bucket or net at low tide. There’s also the Bagatelle theme park that’s bags of fun and suitable even for the youngest.

And at Le Portel, along the coast of Boulogne-sur-Mer, there is a feeling as if time has stood still with the little fishing cottages, wooden fishing boats parked on the beach, and fabulous views over the English Channel.

Perfect for history buffs

Boulogne-sur-Mer – A city by the sea

Boulogne-sur-Mer is where you’ll find a beautifully preserved old town. At it’s heart is the Basilica Notre Dame which has the biggest crypt in France (dating back to Roman times). Cobbled stone streets, ancient buildings, a chateau museum, quirky shops, and scrumptious restaurants – and don’t miss the UNESCO listed Belfry where you’ll see cannon balls fired on the town by King Henry VIII.

There’s also the biggest aquarium in Europe here. Nausicaá has sharks that swim around you in a glass tunnel, fish, sea lions, penguins, turtles, crocodiles, and many species of the marine world. With several events each day, including feeding the penguins, sea lion training sessions, and backstage tours – it’s an unmissable stop in the town. Plus, there’s a fabulous market which takes place on a Saturday morning. And nearby you’ll find one of the best cheese shops of northern France – Philippe Olivier – just follow your nose!

Montreuil-sur Mer – the town that inspired Les Misérables

Or, head to Montreuil-sur-Mer, a picture-perfect town perched on a hill. Go in the Summer to watch the townspeople dress up for a show stopping performance of Les Misérables. It’s performed on the ramparts in homage to Victor Hugo’s famous story which was inspired by his visit to this town. Wander the cobbled streets lined with ancient houses. Enjoy the stunning views over the countryside from the ramparts encircling the town. And pop to the old citadel with its fascinating little museum.

Agincourt – the Legend

The totally revamped Agincourt museum (2021) aims to tell the true story of the great 15^th century battle and provides new detail about the Anglo-French conflict dubbed The Hundred Years War. The Agincourt museum gives a lot of information in an easy and digestible way – in French and in English. Try games like Sovereigns of the Hundred Years’ War. Discover what soldiers ate and words from the Middle Ages. You’ll discover details of daily life, the clothes of the period, the illnesses, and medieval medical treatment.

Perfect for Culture Vultures

Museums and Unesco listed belfries

The world class Louvre-Lens museum is a branch of the Paris Louvre. There are hundreds of artworks covering 5000 years of history. The museum itself is an architectural marvel and with regularly changing exhibitions, it’s a cultural giant of France.

Look out for the UNESCO-listed belfries of the region. They were built in the Middle Ages as a symbol of the freedom of local communities. There are six remaining in Pas-de-Calais (with many more in the Nord department and in Belgium). You’ll find them in the historic towns of Aire-sur-la-Lys, Arras, Bethune, Calais, Boulogne and Hesdin, now a tranquil little market town but once a stronghold of the Spanish crown.

Cite de la Dentelle et de la Mode de Calais – Calais Lace and Fashion Museum of Calais hosts a permanent exhibition including fashion designs, lace samples and lingerie. Each year the museum hosts a world class exhibition. 2023 showcases a unique and astounding collection of designs by one of France’s greatest couturiers, Yves Saint Laurent. The City of Lace puts on events every week including lace making demonstrations, sewing workshops, weaving, silkscreen printing and more for children and adults throughout the summer see their website for more details

With so much to do year-round, any time is the perfect time to visit Pas-de-Calais.

Discover heaps of things to see and do in Pas-de-Calais: visitpasdecalais.com

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Flea markets and antiquing are a way of life in France. And they’re not just about finding hidden treasures – it’s also a way to absorb the culture and traditions of France. Provence has a full agenda of flea markets all year round. But, when it comes to the best places for antiquing in Provence, there is one place that simply mustn’t be missed – the year-round capital of antiques in the south of France – L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.

In 1966, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a little town of immense charm that sits alongside several branches of the Sorgue River, held its first antiques fair. It was such a success that they decided to do it again. And again. Nearly 60 years later, the town is renowned for its antique shops, flea markets, and annual fairs. In fact, it is the second biggest antiques centre in France, and the third largest in Europe.

Not just one but 6 antique ‘villages’

More than 300 antique dealers are gathered year-round in 6 ‘villages’ dedicated to antique shops. You’ll discover everything from furniture – including industrial and venerable antiques, to lamps, paintings, and rugs. Find vintage handbags, lace dresses and haute-couture. Browse through piles of vintage, linen, old comics and ancient books. Find unique sculptural busts, antique tools, large jardinières and urns. There’s even contemporary art. The villages d’antiquaires (antique villages) of l’Isle-sur-la-Sorge are the place to go for lovers of antiques, art and preloved treasures.

An awesome weekly antiques market

With its waterside cafés and restaurants, and little bridges criss-crossing the canals dotted with ancient mossy wooden waterwheels which once powered the local industries of weaving and paper making – L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is full of charm. The town is nicknamed the” Venice of Provence” for its watery arteries and beauty. It’s not just antiques shops that make this one of the top places in France for finding treasure.

Every Sunday between 8 am and 6 pm (except Jan 1 and December 25), the Avenue des 4 Otages is transformed into a vast open-air antiques market. And – the icing on the cake, a traditional street market is held on Sundays too. Shop for fabulous food – olives, cheeses, charcuterie, and quintessential Provencal produce on one side of the river. And browse for antiques on the other side of the river! Take time to relax at a gorgeous café. Stroll the historic streets and along the canals. Enjoy a glass of local wine, and even pop into one of the many museums. There’s no better way to spend a Sunday, though it can be really busy in July and August – you’re likely to be able to browse easier outside those peak visitor months.

Annual antiques fairs

If you are in any doubt that l’sle-sur-la-Sorgue takes antiques seriously – the town also boasts two huge international antiques fairs each year. They are held over the easter weekend and in mid-August. Hundreds of sellers set up stall in the streets and thousands of people from around the world flock to the famous fairs to browse, bargain and buy.

More antiquing destinations in Provence

If you’re a real fan of antiques and flea markets – then Provence has more to please you. Head to Villeneuve-lez-Avignon, across the river from the papal city of Avignon. At the bottom of this beautiful village, each Saturday a brocante, a flea market, is held in Place Charles David from 7 am to 1.30 pm – great for the bargain hunters and for finding a unique souvenir.

And in historic Carpentras, les puces brocante (flea market) is held every Sunday from 9 am to 6 pm in Allées Jean Jaurès.

Find details of more antiques and flea markets in Provence at provenceguide.co.uk/events/antiques

Find loads of great information on what to see and do in Provence at provenceguide.co.uk

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The Vermillion Coast is in the Pyrénées-Orientales, in the Occitanie region, where the craggy Pyrénées mountains descend into the Mediterranean Sea. The view seen from high above the coast encompasses a rich landscape of geometrically captivating vineyards and jagged shoreline. Inextricably anchored between France and Spain, Collioure is considered the pearl of the Côte Vermeille, the Vermillion Coast. It takes its name from the iron ore present in the local rock, which gives it a rusty red colour.

Known since the time of the seagoing Phoenicians, this charmingly romantic, picture postcard village was the trading port for Roussillon during the middle ages and the home of Fauvism in the very early years of the 20th century.

What to see in Collioure

Collioure’s strategically built castle, which juts out to the turquoise Mediterranean, was once home to the Kings of Majorca and became the scene for many battles for possession fought between France and Spain which France finally won in 1793. Just minutes from the Spanish border, Collioure is contentedly French with characteristically Catalan influences.

Breathtaking scenery and delectable local cuisine bring connoisseurs of the senses to this, as yet, undiscovered part of the Mediterranean. Though its beaches are jammed during the summer like its famous anchovies packed in a can, you’ll rarely see an American tourist. For serious wine lovers, Collioure is home to a variety of rich, red wine including Banyuls vin doux. First used as a sacramental wine in churches throughout France, Banyuls was made popular by the Knights Templar during the crusades of the middle ages.

A favourite with artists

Enchanting Collioure is a feast for the eyes, mixing Spanish flair with a French sensibility. The incandescent light which bathes the village drew artists to its shore. In 1905, Henri Matisse visited Collioure and was inspired by the lovely scenery and vibrant colors. His paintings ignites a new movement in art called Fauvism that revolutionized the concept of colour.

Never a strict art movement it, nonetheless, became the first avant-garde wave of the early twentieth century. Picasso, Chagall, Derain, Dufy, and Braque followed. They often stayed at and met to discuss art at the Hotel des Templiers bar, paying for their drinks with art. The hotel is open to this day and boasts an astonishing collection of over a hundred original paintings and sketches. The Fauves (wild beasts) shocked the art world with their “orgy of pure color”.

Painting with pure, unmixed colors, they disregarded the reality of their subjects shapes and natural palette. To honor their contribution to the cultural landscape of Collioure, reproductions of their works appear in an open air museum on the “Chemin du Fauvisme.” Through twenty bronze frames scattered along the route you can see what they saw and painted. Incredibly the view has not changed, in some cases, in over 6 centuries.

Matisse said, “My choice of colours does not rest on any real scientific theory. It is based on observation, on feeling, on the very nature of each experience.”

Within easy reach of Carcassonne, Perpignan and Montpellier, Collioure on the Vermillion Coast is worth experiencing.

Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of southwest France where she runs French Country Adventures which provides private, personally-guided, small-group food & wine adventures into Gascony, the Pays Basque, Tarn, Provence and beyond…

What to see and do nearby

Top things to see and do in Carcassonne
What to see and do in Montpellier

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Calais is the perfect destination for a weekend, day trip and city break. There’s plenty to do and see from museums to memorial sites. The beach is beautiful. Calais la Plage, Calais by the sea, has had a massive makeover and is now one of the finest seaside destinations on the already gorgeous Opal Coast of northern France. The food is fabulous – from refined dining restaurants to seafood sensations, cosy little cafés, and atmospheric estaminets (traditional Flemish-style inns). And. There be dragons here. The colossal Calais dragon is a astounding sight, carrying passengers and creating one of the strangest and most captivating free street art performances in Europe…

Calais Dragon walks around the city!

The mechanical beast that lives in a glass fronted lair on the seafront is no ordinary dragon.

A whopping 82 feet long and 40 feet high – this dragon of the sea is majestic and monumental. It’s a mesmerising sight to see him sauntering along the seafront with happy passengers on his back.

Yes, this dragon, fire-breathing though he is, hosts up to 50 passengers at a time for a 45-minute guided tour along the beautiful seafront taking in the sites! With a panoramic platform on his back giving views over the English Channel towards the White Cliff of Dover, and the city, this is a ride to remember.

It is without doubt, also one of the most incredible free art shows in France, a head-turning spectacle that makes kids stare in wonder and adults smile at the magic of a mobile 72-ton wood and steel architectural marvel.

Enter the Dragon

Designed by François Delarozière, the genius behind the Machines de l’ile de Nantes, the Dragon of Calais, this is the most imposing of the company’s famous mechanical menagerie to date. The Dragon doesn’t just breathe fire, he spits water, sneezes, snorts, swings his considerable tail, roars out loud and flaps his wings. He’s not exactly a speedy mover, at 4km per hour there’s plenty of time to watch him wander past, operated by skilled ‘machinists’ (puppet masters).

Every performance the Dragon gives is unique because he reacts to his environment. He might bat his long eyelids at you in a surprisingly cute way! Or he might stop and stare into your eyes – and you can’t look away I promise you. He might spot a ferry in the Channel and lift his 57 feet long wings in a show of strength – this is his territory. He’ll roar and breath fire. If you’re really lucky – and under 12 years old or else you might think it not such a good idea – he’ll sprinkle dragon snot over you (AKA water!).

The Dragon is not alone…

The Dragon is the cheer leader for a vast artistic urban project planned for the town. And, he’s unforgettably, incredibly weird and wonderful.  With a dozen mad, magical, mechanical companions mooted to join him – the first, a 13 feet long iguana lives close by.

The Sentinel Iguana sits astride a shipping container from where it spits water, stands up, moves around and wags its tail! Rumour has it that, based on his colour, the iguana is a male, though no one knows for sure. And vets estimate he’s a youngster, just 13 years old! Unlike his cousin the Dragon, this captivating creature doesn’t give rides. He’s available to all who want to weave their own magic and play at being a machinist for themselves. Kids fall head over heels for him.

The creative Calais regeneration project will see more lizards join the gang. In total 10 machines will roam,  carrying passengers to and from iconic sites, whilst three will stay and rule the roost like the Sentinel Iguana. Their spellbindingly prodigious presence puts Calais firmly on the map as one of the most incredible theatrical street art rich cities in Europe.

Book online for your ride on the dragon at: compagniedudragon.com/en

Dragon food!

Ogling dragons is hungry work. Pop to the Dragon’s restaurant next to his lair. Enjoy  breakfast, lunch and aperitifs (including cocktails such as the Dragon des Mers which packs a Tequila Punch, and Dragon des Airs, a fruity alcohol free delight), at L’Antre du Dragon, restaurant, café, bar. It’s also the perfect place for Sunday brunch! Book in advance and see the menu at:

Find heaps of things to do and see, places to eat and more at: Calais-cotedopale.co.uk

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There is an area of the Loire Valley known as Touraine, one of the traditional provinces of France. One of its most important cities was the Royal City of Loches. During the political reorganisation of French territory in 1790, Touraine was divided between the departments of Indre-et-Loire, Loir-et-Cher, Indre and Vienne. It’s a land of castles, picturesque villages, historic towns and a tapestry-like landscape of vineyards, forests, apple and pear orchards and fields of flowers.

A medieval time warp

Strangely, the Royal City of Loches which sits on the bank of the River Indre, isn’t at the top of Loire Valley must-sees – and yet it is utterly enchanting. Most people are swept off their feet by the Renaissance glories that pepper the Loire Valley such as Chambord and Chenonceau, so the older Chinon and Loches tend to be overlooked. But do that, and you’re really missing out on a gloriously cultural and historic, not to mention delicious, part of the Loire Valley.

The castle of Loches

An imposing 1000-year-old castle is perched atop a hill dominating the pale stone medieval town spread at its feet. There are no modern buildings here, it really is pickled in the past, even the town hall is in a 500-year-old building that looks like a castle. And there is a medieval city within the city.

It was here, in the great hall of Loches Castle, that, after her victory against the English at Orleans, Joan of Arc persuaded the Dauphin to go to Reims to be crowned King Charles VII. A defining moment in French history. The King’s mistress, the beautiful Agnes Sorel died at Loches aged just 28, and her alabaster tomb in the castle is exquisite.

Famous inhabitants of Loches Castle

Agnes Sorel was a great beauty and the King adored her. But she moved to Loches to keep out of the way of the King’s son who hated her, some say he poisoned her.  She had a great influence on the fashion of the time, and wasn’t averse to creating a scandal with her open bodices. She left her wealth to the Church of Saint Ours in the town, where she wanted to be interred. Though the church leaders abhorred the ‘immoral woman’ and didn’t want her there, they overcame their distaste enough to take the money. And the tomb. It was moved some years later to the castle of Loches.

It was at Loches the nasty King Louis XI, son of Charles VII, hung small iron cages from the ceiling. Then he would lock up those who displeased him for years on end. The overflow of prisoners ended up in the dungeons including Ludovica Sforza. He was the Duke of Milan and one time patron of Leonardo da Vinci, who lived the last years of his life not far away in Amboise, a guest of Francois 1er.

What to see in Loches

The upper town is reached by a chest-thumping walk up a hill. But it’s worth it. It’s a town for wandering, with sloping cobbled streets, walled gateways and elegant squares. Wednesdays and Saturdays are market days.

Don’t miss: The Lansyer Museum, former home of artist Emmanuel Lansyer (1835-1893, considered to be one of the best landscape painters of his time. The museum feels as though he still lives there, and presents many of his paintings. There are great views over the city and the Royal Gate Terrace from the romantic gardens.

Dine out: Arbores et Sens. Pass through a bijou terrace with a magnificent wisteria canopy to a stunning restaurant with a tree in the middle. As you listen to birdsong, feast on tiny amuse bouches like works of art, and seriously, I mean seriously, delicious food.  Refined but not stuffy. A very talented chef, local-born Clément Dumont was awarded a Michelin Star in March 2023.

Locals love: Restaurant Les Racines dans les assiettes. This is where the locals go if they want a slap-up meal and a good glass of wine. 12 Place de l’Hotel de Ville.

Aperitifs at: Terrace bar of the Best Western Hotel. This was the former Palais de Justice, and there are stunning views over the royal city.

Stay at: Hotel Le George in the centre of town. Beautifully decorated big rooms, there was a huge fireplace in my room. legeorge.com

What to see near Loches:

Nip to neighbouring Beaulieu-les-Loches to explore the tiny town which was once more important than Loches. Home to the 11^th century Holy Trinity Abbey, now the town hall. You can reach the village by bike or on foot, via the Prairies du Roy (King’s meadow), an eco-tourism site. It’s an enchanting village where you’ll spot Maison Agnes Sorel and the gorgeous allotment gardens kept by the locals.

Vineyards are being reintroduced to the area around Loches – at Montrésor for instance, a plus beaux village de France. This little gem has an ivy-covered castle with gorgeous gardens. In July and August as dusk falls, wander along the river to enjoy the free light show – the Nuits Solaires.

Smell the roses at the lovely village of Chedigny, famous for its display. Read more about it.

Off the beaten track in the Loire Valley

Have a picnic in the forest of Chinon. Or wander the pretty village of Saint-Benoît-la-Forêt where Louis XI kept his falcons.

Take a detour along the route de Trogladytes. The tufa stone that was dug out to create castles, abbeys and mansions left behind a labyrinth of underground passages. Some of them have been turned into homes, workshops and wine caves.

In the village of Rivarennes you can taste the famous local Poire tapée – dried and flattened pear.

In spring don’t miss the beautiful village of Crissay-sur-Manse and the Vallée de la Manse, famous for its host of golden daffodils.

This area is so rich in history you come across one gem after another.

Visit Loches in the Loire Valley

Loches can be reached from Tours by train in around 60 minutes. Tours is easily reached from Paris by train (from one hour).

Take a guided tour of the area by e-bike with Loire Brakes to discover off the beaten track gems and have a slow travel experience that takes you to the heart of the Loire. Loirebrakes.com

Find details of events, accommodation, what to see and where to go at: touraineloirevalley.co.uk

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

Janine Marsh is Author of My Good Life in France: In Pursuit of the Rural Dream,  My Four Seasons in France: A Year of the Good Life and Toujours la France: Living the Dream in Rural France all available as ebook, print & audio, on Amazon everywhere & all good bookshops online. Her new book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle, is out in October 2023 – a look at the French way of life.

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Several years ago, I saw a black and white photo of a run down but enormous building in a small town called Guise, not far from St Quentin, in the Aisne department of Picardy. The building looked palatial, and also a little bit like a Victorian factory. It was the Familistère, a 19th century social housing project for workers at the Godin factory which made the famous French cast iron stoves that are still sought after to this day. I was intrigued by it, but at that time, it was closed to the public. The article I read said this place wasn’t just about housing – it was an entire city with facilities for some 2000 inhabitants. I dreamed of one day visiting…

Well, it is now open to the public following a restoration that’s taken several years. And it makes for a truly fascinating visit.

Who was Godin

The “Familistère”, a “social palace” was built to house the employees and their families of the Godin cast-iron stove factory. Godin fires are still made in the region and assembled at the Guise factory, just a few miles from Fresnoy-le-Grand where Le Creuset create their iconic cast-iron cookware.

Jean-Baptiste André Godin was born in Aisne in 1817. He was the son of a locksmith and left school at the age of 11. An ordinary beginning to his life, but his legacy is anything but ordinary.

Aged just 17 he moved near Paris, and a year later began to travel. On the road for three years, he taught himself about architecture as he went. On his journey he became acutely aware of the plight of workers and of the poor conditions they worked and lived in. In 1840 aged 23, he married and opened his own workshop. He filed his first patent that year when he designed a revolutionary iron stove known to this day as a Godin fire. It was an enormous success.

He outgrew his workshop and in 1846 moved the business to Guise, creating a foundry with about 20 employees. But that was only the start.

A few years earlier he discovered ‘Foureierism’ – the concept of social science put forward by Charles Fourier. The concept profoundly affected him. As his business grew substantially, he used some of his new found wealth to fund a project to start a colony in Texas. It was based on Fourier’s teaching – that wealth and prosperity should be shared with the labourers, social reform that didn’t please the French ruling classes. 150 colonists left France – teachers, doctors and intellectuals. There was not a single agriculturist among them to help start the new colony.

Palace for the people

The project in Texas was an abject disaster. Many of the colonists died and the colony was abandoned. Godin lost a small fortune  and returned to France.

However, he didn’t give up on his dreams but instead moved them to France. In 1857 he bought a large piece of land in Guise. On it he created a workers ‘paradise’ – a residential building to house 1500 people – factory workers, employees and their families. The design of the building was based on the palace of Versailles. Residency was voluntary, and by 1870 almost 1000 people lived in the palace. There wasn’t a better, bigger apartment for the bosses or the administration workers, everyone was housed according to their needs, not their position.

On site was a laundrette, swimming pool, stores and a 600 seat theatre. It was essentially a small town within a town. And it was within easy walking distance of Godin’s now huge factory. He also built schools for workers children and even designed a wooden platform to make the pool suitable for children.

Godin called it a social palace.

Godin’s vision

Godin set a 10 hour working day when the norm at the time was 13-15 hours. And gave his workers Sunday off though there was no church in his town.

Workers generally earned around 150 francs per month and their rent was just 8-12 francs, a fraction of their wages leaving them more money to spend on other things.

He set up a workers union.The workers decided the rules in the factory via a series of committees.

The accommodation was spacious and hygienic, though it has to be said, some residents likened it to a prison.

It seemed like utopia.

But when he died in 1888 having tragically lost his only son just 15 days before, the running of the factory fell to the committees. Without his influence, it all fell apart as infighting and disagreement took over. Ultimately the experiment failed without him.

The German army occupied the site from 1914 to November 1918. They turned the theatre into a jail, the central palace became military hospital and they destroyed some of the buildings.

What can you see now?

The Utopia Project began in 2002 to restore the palace and remaining buildings. It is a triumph. You can tour some of the apartments, including Godin’s own apartment. Take a guided tour, visit the theatre (which has an active schedule of events), school and pool and discover the extraordinary story of a man of vision. There is a permanent exhibition as well as temporary exhibitions. Take a break in the lovely cafe on site (with a pretty garden terrace). And don’t miss the shop where you can buy Godin products – the famous fires, plus kitchen products including wonderfully heavy iron pans. The town of Guise is worth a detour, pretty little streets and a ruined castle you can visit.

Almost 200 years after it’s creation, the Familistère is mind boggling both in its architecture, and as a concept that was way ahead of its time.

Read more about what to see and do in Aisne in the free to read: The Good Life France Magazine 

Details of the visit at: familistere.com/fr

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

Janine Marsh is Author of My Good Life in France: In Pursuit of the Rural Dream,  My Four Seasons in France: A Year of the Good Life and Toujours la France: Living the Dream in Rural France all available as ebook, print & audio, on Amazon everywhere & all good bookshops online. Her new book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle, is out in October 2023 – a look at the French way of life.

All rights reserved. This article is the property of thegoodlifefrance.com and may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

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The Archipel de Thau lagoon in the south of France is a bit of a secret place. Around 20km long, and separated from the Mediterranean by a sandbank, the L’Étang de Thau as it’s also called, is the largest salt lake in the Occitanie region. It’s a breeding ground for oysters and mussels. Bordering the lake are pretty villages surrounded by lush vineyards. From the commune of Agde to the town of Sète, on the Mediterranean side there are miles and miles of wide sandy beaches known as Marseillan Plage.

Rising out of the sea, and the dominant landmark of the lagoon, is the hill of Mont Saint-Clair. At its base lies Sète, known as the Venice of the region thanks to its canals and busy port. This lively town has a plethora of restaurants all around the port and almost all serve freshly caught fish. Dishes reflect a strong Italian influence due to the immigrant workers who helped create the canals in the 17^th century.

Sète is a cruise destination as well as France’s leading port for blue fish, sardines, anchovies and tuna. During the summer months, the banks of the main canal are filled with spectators watching water jousting, a form of entertainment dating back to the town’s inception in 1666. Teams dressed in white, board long boats and compete against each other to topple their adversary’s jouster with a 2.8m long wooden lance! In July, the open-air theatre with its enchanting backdrop of the Mediterranean, hosts a Jazz Festival that attracts top name artists.

Around the lagoon are little villages, each with its own charms.

Pretty villages

At Balaruc-les-Bains the Antique Mediterranean Garden is well worth a visit, laid out as it would have been in Roman times. Discover the  agriculture and horticulture of the Mediterranean, and the diverse use of flowers and plants in medicine, cooking, and cosmetics. The village is known for its therapeutic thermal waters.

At Bouzigues the secrets of the fishermen of L’Etang as well as oyster cultivation are explained at the Museum of Ethnographique.

And at the 12^th century Abbey of Valmagne you can take a wine tasting. Its architecture is based on the great cathedrals of Northern France. Original paintings are displayed on the stone walls of the cloisters, and there are regular exhibitions. Converted into a wine storehouse after the French Revolution, and thanks to its vineyards, it is known as the wine cathedral.

Marseillan

Make your way to Marseillan and en route you may spot pink flamingos in the shallow waters of the lagoon. Marseillan Port is a preserved heritage site with pretty cafés bordering the inlet. The town is the home of Noilly Prat vermouth, a favourite ingredient of James Bond for his famous “shaken not stirred” Dry Martini! Its history can be traced back to 1813, and a visit to the Noilly Prat museum will reveal many secrets including the spices and herbs in the ingredients list. Tours end with a tasting – perfect.

Marseillan’s market takes place on Tuesday morning. Its arrival turns the village from a quiet, sleepy town into a vibrant place. In a row of shacks where the boats come to off-load their catch from the Etang, you’ll find La Cabane Brasucade, a tiny family run eaterie facing onto the lagoon. Here, they marinate the oysters and mussels which are grown just offshore. You can’t miss the sight of row upon row of what look like huts on stilts in the lagoon. The freshly harvested, marinated molluscs are cooked over an open fire. Served with the local wine, such as Picpoul de Pinet, this is one of life’s finest pleasures!

Activities galore

There are numerous water sports including kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, sailing and kitesurfing. Bicycle paths are everywhere, including the 18 miles of Marseillan Plage. Beaches offer somewhere to relax, play and eat with numerous restaurants and bars.

There are also many walking paths in the area, some circumnavigating vineyards where you can enjoy tastings. This is an area of small, independent wine growers and often, it’s a matter of ringing a bell at the front door to access the tasting room.

This little part of paradise is authentic and irresistibly pretty, a well-kept secret to fall in love with.

www.archipel-thau.com

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

Natasha Blair is a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers. She became a Francophile after studying French Civilisation for Foreigners at the Sorbonne University in Paris. When possible, she loves to travel with her pet passport carrying dog, Poppy, a Coton du Tuleur.

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