Between the magnificent vineyards of Macon in Burgundy and Bourg-en-Bresse Rhone-Alpes, around 50km north of Lyon, lies Vonnas. It’s a small town, with some 3000 residents. But – it is no ordinary small town. It’s here that an extraordinary chef, Georges Blanc, has created an entire gourmet village.

A village dedicated to food. And not just any old food. The best food in France. Two restaurants, one which has 3 Michelin stars, that serve the most delicious dishes accompanied by superb wines. A 5 star hotel and a holiday residence. Plus a magnificent boulangerie/patisserie, wine store and shops dedicated to all things French cuisine – including tableware. Village Blanc in Vonnas is the place to go for foodies.

Village Blanc – a foodie paradise

Chef Georges Blanc is world famous. Visit his 5 star Hôtel Relais & Châteaux Parc & Spa Georges Blanc and you can’t help but notice the walls are  decorated with photos of past guests and those he’s cooked for – presidents, prime ministers, royalty, Hollywood celebrities. But visit the village and you’ll quickly see that it’s not just the rich and the famous who adore his dishes – the village caters to everyone who loves food.

Chef Blanc, who was born in Bourg-en-Bresse in 1943, comes from a chef dynasty – three generations of famous women cooks. His great grandparents 1872 started a lemonade production in Vonnas. Grandmother Elisa Blanc was known as “La Mere Blanc” and voted the best cook in the world by the famous French food critic Curnonsky and was the first in the family to achieve a Michelin star. His mother Paulette was also a great chef who held two Michelin stars. Through a generation of talented cooks, Maison Blanc has been Michelin starred since 1929. Georges Blanc is also a Meilleur Ouvrier de France, an award that recognises the outstanding and extraordinary skills of craftsmen and women. He’s won multiple awards and has held 3 stars since 1981.

Chef Georges Blanc

When I stopped off in Vonnas, you can’t take a gastronomic odyssey of the Vallée de la Gastronomie and not visit this famous foodie town, he invited me into his office for a chat.

“When I was young, I wanted to be a pilot more than anything” he said. I looked around his office, the shelves packed with books, awards, certificates line the walls, his own books are in a pile – he’s written many – recipe books, memories, the sayings he admires collected into a volume of “thoughts”, and more.

“As you can see, it didn’t work out that way – I went into the kitchen instead. J’adore mon metier, I love my job. When people come here I want them to love it,” he said. “Visitors come from all walks of life, but share a common love – good food.”

I asked him what makes a great dish and without hesitation he replied “sauce. Without a good sauce the dish is nothing. Sauces are my signature. Oil, tomatoes, olives, a mix of Mediterranean flavours are essentials. A sauce depends on the time you have, the circumstances you’re cooking in, whether you want something sophisticated or authentic.”

I left his office to wander the village and build up an appetite for lunch. You can’t go to Vonnas and not eat. It would be a sin!

The art of gastronomy

The village hosts a traditional holiday residence and a 42-bed 5 star hotel. Aside from the boulangerie/patisserie, wine store and tableware shop, there’s also a chocolaterie, a butchers shop, cinema and park with, of course, outdoor eating area. Chef Blanc bought his first building here in 1990 and then kept going, with some 30 properties now included as his dream to create a gourmet village kept growing. This place is astonishing. A real tribute to his ancestors, to great gastronomy, to the products of Burgundy. “I’m not done yet” he says “I’ve got a 20-year project (at least) that I want to fulfil!”

L’Esprit Blanc, the Michelin starred restaurant is very refined and sophisticated with a glass cellar that is simply breathtaking. The restaurant holds around 140,000 bottles of wine, the oldest dates to 1845. It’s one of the greatest restaurant cellars in the world, “of course the most popular wine is from Burgundy” I’m told.

L’Ancienne Auberge is quite different. This was the family restaurant and it’s oh so French with red and white check table cloths and vintage furnishings. It has an olde worlde air of authenticity, like stepping back to the days of Chef Blanc’s great grandmother. Until you see the kitchen which is big and open, clearly visible to diners, revealing chefs beavering away at state of the art preparation stations creating traditional and classic dishes.

L’Ancienne auberge of Vonnas

He may be 80 years old, but Chef Blanc shows no signs of slowing down and is as passionate as ever about food and about his gastronomic village. I sat at a table in the auberge, and watched as he arrived, a flurry of excitement ran through the restaurant as guests craned their necks to watch the legendary chef make his way to the kitchen. He beckoned me over and I trotted behind him to the sacred area where the theatre of cooking was in full flow. The whole kitchen was a flurry of activity, heavenly smells and fast working chefs.

“You must have the Bresse chicken, it’s the signature dish here,” Chef Blanc said as I watched wide-eyed as he inspected each station and watched as chefs chopped, grated, sliced, fried, squeezed pipes filled with cream, dripped oils and created plates for the large, full restaurant. “Maybe you would like some frogs legs and escargots too” he said with a smile, before wandering around the restaurant to say hello to guests and pose for photos. People flock from all around the world to spend a night in Village Blanc and experience the gourmet wonders, the ambiance of the hotel and the residence. This pretty little gastro-village is THE place to go for true foodies.

And the sauce served with the Bresse chicken? Divine. You can eat yourself to a standstill here.

Find out more at: georgesblanc.com/en

Discover the hundreds of scrumptious experiences offered along the Vallee de la Gastronomie: valleedelagastronomie.com/en

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Gillian Thornton combines town and country on a short break to Lyon and the Beaujolais

World beating grub and heavenly wines

‘Now stir the mushrooms into the spelt mixture…’ Chef Sébastien Mathieu hands me a bowl of fresh girolles, painstakingly diced earlier by my own fair hand, and I add them to the fragrant risotto. An irresistible aroma wafts up from the simmering pan.

Magical things happen when you book a cookery lesson at the Institut Paul Bocuse in the heart of historic Lyon. Over the last two hours, our little band of six eager students has chopped vegetables, made garnishes, and generally hung on to Sébastien’s every word as we watch him prepare our dinner, all the time passing on techniques perfected in some of the world’s best kitchens.

France’s “capital of gastronomy”

Lyon has long been acknowledged as the capital of French gastronomy, largely thanks to the presence of legendary chef Paul Bocuse. The great man died in 2018 but his influence lives on through his restaurants and through the city’s indoor food market, renamed the Halles Paul Bocuse in his honour. Don’t miss the twin temptations of top quality food stalls and informal eateries such as Les Bouchons Lyonnais where locals love to shop and eat.

Heritage fans have always loved this UNESCO-listed city for the fabulous Renaissance architecture of Vieux Lyon, the wealth of first-class museums, and the twin Roman theatres overlooking its two rivers, the Rhône and Saône. But now there are even more delicious reasons to visit this atmospheric city.

Lyon lies at the heart of the Vallée de la Gastronomie, a major tourism initiative that promotes the huge range of regional wines, produce and cuisine found between Dijon and Dole in the north, and Marseille and Cassis on the Mediterranean coast. Think picnics in the vineyards or a visit to a truffle market; eating at chef’s table or tasting with a wine producer. The range of foodie activities on offer is growing all the time and bookable via local tourism websites.

The flavours of Beaujolais

I took a short break to combine the foodie delights of Lyon with the liquid pleasures of the Beaujolais, starting my adventure in the vineyards of Château de Juliénas, around an hour’s drive north of Lyon. Here Thierry Condomine is the fifth generation of his family to grow vines on these gentle slopes and transform them into AOC Juliénas within the 18^th century stone buildings of his atmospheric winery.

With so many different rocks influencing the terroir and taste of the wines here, Beaujolais is proud to be the first wine region awarded Global Geopark status by UNESCO. Book a two-hour tour on Thierry’s Wine Tasting Truck and you get the unique experience of riding in a 1964 VW Combi and tasting wines in the exact spot where the grapes were grown, accompanied by cheese and charcuterie.

Many a local dish is enhanced not just by a glass of appropriate wine, but also by the produce of the Huilerie Beaujolaise in Beaujeu, medieval capital of the Beaujolais. Sample their twelve virgin fruit oils and nine fruit vinegars before making your choice from their well-stocked shop.

Taste, tour and take it easy

Some flavours are unmistakeable; others are not as easy to discern as you might think. Test your palate on the Sensory Wine Trail, a fun activity at Chateau de Pizay, a 4-star hotel and spa in the middle of its own vineyards at Belleville-en-Beaujolais.

After all this hard work, I relaxed over local food and wine at Hotel Villa Alexandre, a delightful 18^th century country house turned boutique hotel at Régnie-Durette near Beujeu. And after a blissful night’s sleep, next morning, I strolled the picturesque streets of Oingt in the ‘golden stones’ area of southern Beaujolais. For panoramic views of the vineyards and village, classified amongst the Plus Beaux Villages de France, climb to the flat roof of the bell tower before sitting down to authentic local fare at La Table du Donjon.

Living it up in Lyon

Lunch over, I set off for Lyon, checking in at the Hotel de Verdun, a surprisingly tranquil small hotel between Perrache Station and the vast square of Place Bellecour, home to the Institut Paul Bocuse, location for the evening cookery lesson. But first there was time to explore the grand 19^th century basilica of Notre Dame de Fourvière, the adjacent Roman theatres, and the narrow streets of Vieux Lyon.

By the time I donned my navy monogrammed apron at the Ecole de Cuisine Gourmets, I had worked up an appetite. On our menu was Braised Endives with sour carrot juice, pomelos and hazelnut crumble, followed by Veal Scallop with porcini mushrooms, spelt risotto and siphon comté – a delicate foam flavoured with comté cheese and applied through a siphon. Who knew?

Happy to watch Sébastien tackle the tricky bits, we merrily diced and decorated as instructed before sitting down to share the fruits of our labours, plus a delicious dessert that our English-speaking Chef had thoughtfully prepared earlier.

Winemaking experience

Next day, I tackled a very different kind of creative gastronomic experience, the chance to blend my own bottle of wine at Chai Saint Olive in the city centre, one of a growing number of urban wineries around France. Here I blended different proportions of local grape varieties until I eventually arrived at something pleasing to my palate, a bottle I proudly labelled Clos de Gillian for a very personal souvenir.

Lyon’s world class grub

No food tour of Lyon would be complete without sampling the traditional fare of a Lyonnais bouchon. Food can be hearty but I enjoyed a light lunch of delicate fish quenelles at Daniel & Denise Saint-Jean, awarded Bib Gourmand status by Michelin. Foodies should also explore the restaurants and bars of the Hôtel-Dieu, a 17^th century hospital overlooking the Rhône, now repurposed as a dining and entertainment complex. This elegant building is also home to the newly revamped Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie, an interactive food discovery centre.

There’s a real buzz to Lyon by night, especially on board the Wagon Bar, a bus turned mobile restaurant where guests relax on the upper deck over a 5-course gastronomic dinner as they are driven over illuminated bridges and past floodlit monuments, through buzzing squares and past lavishly painted walls. A fitting finale to any city break.

So, back home have I made the smooth carrot sauce delicately flavoured with ginger? Or the mushroom sabayon that added a definite je-ne-sais-quoi to the spelt risotto? Well let’s just say not yet. But I have perfected a neat technique for slicing onions without crying, and when I don that Paul Bocuse apron, even my cheese on toast seems worthy of a Michelin star!

FACT FILE

Lyon and the Beaujolais both lie within the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region www.auvergnerhonealpes-tourisme.com.Further inspiration from www.valleedelagastronomie.com .

Beaujolais

Tourism: www.destination-beaujolais.com
Foodie activities: chaeaudejulienas.com; www.huilerie-beaujolaise.fr; www.chateau-pizay.com
Eating out: www.latabledudonjon.fr
Sleeping over: www.hotelvilla-alexandre.fr

Lyon

Tourism: www.lyon-france.com
Foodie activities: www.ecoledecuisine.institutpaulbocuse.com; www.chaisaintolive.com; www.lewagonbar.com
Eating out: www.danieletdenise.fr; www.garconsboucherslyon.com
Sleeping over: www.hoteldeverdun1882.com

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France is home to some spectacular painted caves, each one with its own USP. But there’s nowhere quite like the Grotte Chauvet-Pont d’Arc, discovered in 1994 by three cavers deep beneath a limestone plateau in the rural department of Ardèche, Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes. Tumbling rivers and spectacular caverns, ancient villages and chestnut orchards… Gillian Thornton takes a leisurely journey through the heart of Ardèche.

Grotte Chauvet-Pont d’Arc

More than 1000 animals gallop and graze across its textured walls, skilfully painted 36,000 years ago by people who hunted them for food but revered them enough to depict them on the cavern walls. Why? We can only guess. Though experts these days tend to believe that it’s for the pure art, rather than for spiritual reasons.

I’m standing in front of a group of horses with bristly manes, each head in a different position. One animal has its mouth open in surprise, another its eyes shut in pain, and another has ears back in anger. In front of them is a rhinoceros, his huge horn a warning to any would-be combatants. On another wall, I spot a massive bison that seems to have eight legs until I look closer and see there’s a second beast behind him. Everywhere I look I sense movement. I can almost hear the pounding of hooves, the snorts of breath, and grunts of animals in fight or flight mode.

Unique cave art

The hundreds of paintings in Grotte Chauvet depict 14 different species, some never or rarely seen in other paintings from the period. Fierce creatures like lions and leopards, mammoths and cave bears, but an owl too, unique in Palaeolithic art. It’s spine tingling stuff and bizarrely all the more so when I remind myself it isn’t real.

The original cave, designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, is too fragile to open to the public. So I’m standing in front of an extraordinary copy, the world’s largest replica of a decorated cave that is perfect in every minute detail.  Grotte Chauvet 2 enables all of us to get up close and personal with Humanity’s first masterpiece, and to discover the whole back story through the excellent Aurignacian Gallery that completes this unmissable visitor attraction.

Be Amazed by Ardeche

But then there’s a lot about Ardèche that’s unmissable. ‘Be Amazed by Ardèche’ is the buzz line from the tourist board and they’re not wrong. One of France’s most sparsely populated departments, this unspoilt rural area nestles up to the west bank of the river Rhône for 135 km south of Lyon, part of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region.

And yet many people pass by at speed, bound for the holiday spots of the Mediterranean. Turn off the Autoroute du Soleil however at Tournon-sur-Rhône or further south towards Privas and you’re in for a treat. Named after the river that flows east from the Ardèche Mountains before turning sharply south near Aubenas, this is a department for anyone who loves outdoor adventure – soft or challenging – and an authentic rural lifestyle that’s in tune with the environment.

Big Sky Country

First major town that you come to travelling south is Annonay, renowned for the colourful July festival that celebrates the invention of the hot air balloon. But ‘major’ is a tad misleading. Despite being the department’s largest town, Annonay has fewer than 17,000 people. Tournon-sur-Rhône, some 35 km to the south, is even smaller but well worth a stopover for its castle museum, riverside frontage and lively café culture.

Further south and west, the land begins to rise as you approach the county town of Privas, gateway to the Monts d’Ardèche Regional Natural Park and UNESCO-listed Géopark. This is Big Sky Country where the lands ripples towards the distant horizon in huge folds.

Highest point at 1753 metres, close to the border with Haute-Loire, is Mont Mézenc, but most iconic is Mont Gerbier de Jonc, source of France’s longest river. It’s a popular tourist attraction, but don’t expect to see a gush of water springing neatly out of the earth. The Loire’s inauspicious start is formed by the joining together of small streams that flow down from the top of the plug topping this ancient volcano.

Volcanic hills and glorious nature

If, like me, you can’t resist a dramatic landscape, the Monts d’Ardèche deliver at every turn. This once turbulent landscape still bears the evidence of ancient eruptions and not just in its volcanic hills. At the Cascade du Ray-Pic, water tumbles 200 feet over basalt columns that solidified more than 30,000 years ago. Look too for signs indicating the invisible Ligne du Partage des Eaux, the natural watershed that slices north-south through the west of the department. Rain falling on one side flows to the Mediterranean, and on the other, to the Atlantic, though how people prove this, I’m never quite sure!

Many artists, sculptors and crafts people have studios in this inspirational landscape and eight eclectic outdoor artworks have been installed along the 100-km Watershed Trail. I particularly loved Mazan Abbey, a Cistercian ruin nestled in a deep valley and location for ‘Un Cercle et Mille Fragments’, an innovative installation by artist Felice Varini. The roof, walls and adjacent bridge are painted with arcs of gold leaf, arresting in themselves but if you stand in the right spot, complete circles appear to balance on the church roof. Clever stuff!

Beautiful villages

With no urban population exceeding 17,000, Ardèche is a region of villages with 21 of them awarded the Villages de Caractère label. Two of them are also listed amongst the elite band of Plus Beaux Villages de France. Walk the medieval streets of Vogüé, dominated by a 16^th century chateau, and explore the vaulted passageways and ancient fortifications of Balazuc, perched – like Vogüé – above the Ardèche river.

The artistic gem of the Grotte Chauvet once stood beside the river, but over the millennia the course has changed and today the Ardèche cuts deeper through the limestone. But whilst the original Grotte Chauvet may be out of bounds to visitors, there are stalagmites and stalactites aplenty at the magnificent Aven d’Orgnac, classified Grand Site de France. Also at the Grotte de Saint Marcel, where you can book an underground wine tasting without the sensory distractions experienced above ground.

Activities galore

Caving, climbing and canoeing enthusiasts flock to Vallon-Pont-d’Arc, riverside hub of the local outdoor leisure industry. Don’t miss the natural rock arch that spans the river, an Instagram moment for the many kayakers who cruise beneath, as well as for those who drive the Corniche above the spectacular, winding Ardèche Gorges.

Cycle tourism is big in Ardèche too. Not just for lycra-clad enthusiasts, but family groups too through initiatives like La Dolce Via, a level cycle and walking route that runs for 75km along a former railway track in the Eyrieux valley. Many small hotels and guest houses offer bikes to guests or you can hire locally, including e-bikes. And many are part of the Acceuil Vélo network that offer bike storage and cleaning facilities to pedal-powered tourists.

You’ll find every kind of accommodation from chateau B&Bs to farmhouse hotels in Ardèche. Even treehouses at Peaugres Safari Park. But the most popular style of holiday accommodation ere is the humble tent. Or sometimes not quite so humble. Here you can be one with nature without roughing it, given the choice of camping or glamping, yurts, bubbles and log cabins.

Gastronomy of Ardèche

All this fresh air makes you hungry, but Ardèche is justifiably proud of both its gastronomy and its less formal ‘bistronomy’. Chefs are passionate about local produce, in particular the AOP Ardèche chestnut. Staple food of the area for centuries, Ardèche is France’s No 1 chestnut producer, cultivating 65 different varieties that are sold fresh, dried, and as chestnut flour. Gen up at the Castanea discovery centre in Joyeuse.

And of course good food deserves good wine. Ardèche is home to many high quality vintages that combine full flavour with minimal food miles. Famous names include Crozes Hermitage and Saint-Joseph, Cornas and Saint-Péray, Côtes du Rhône and Côte de Vivarais. Look out for the Vignobles et Découvertes wine tourism label for vineyards that offer tours, tastings and various innovative experiences to enthusiasts.

Then raise a glass or two to Ardèche – underground or overground, this rural department really will amaze you.

For more information, visit www.ardeche-guide.com

More on Ardèche

Take to the silk road in Ardèche

How to explore the Gorges of Ardèche

Why the Ardèche is the perfect cycling destination

This article was first published in The Good Life France Magazine

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Explores the beauty of the Côtes du Rhône on a road trip through the Rhone Valley. Follow the wine route with us to discover enchanting villages, glorious countryside and the steepest vineyards in France…

A road trip along the Rhône River is a great way to discover this lesser-known region of France. Bound by picturesque villages, sweeping roads and spectacular scenery, vineyards cling to the hillsides and delicious wines and warm hospitality await.

I decided to drive along the idyllic Côtes du Rhône to get a flavour of its wine route and remarkable beauty which follows the course of the Rhône River. 125 miles takes you southwards along three regions including the Rhône, the Drome and Ardeche in the southeast of France. Starting just south of Lyon I drove its length from Saint-Cyr-sur-le-Rhône almost to the Mediterranean Sea as far as Avignon.

The Rhône is one of the classic French wine regions. It’s been a hub of wine culture since ancient times and is amongst the oldest vineyard regions on the planet. Greeks, Romans and Medieval Popes fell under the spell of the native-grape rocky-soil flavours. Today it is just as popular with more than 5,000 producers. There are more than 100 villages making wines over a whopping 86,000 acres. It’s the second-largest wine region in France.

The Côtes du Rhône is a region wide appellation, the official title given to wines made on the hillsides and communes along the Rhône River. Here, the winemakers of the Côtes du Rhône experiment with blends and vineyard techniques nurturing the ancient grape varieties into quality wines. Dedicated artisans and producers offer an exceptional range of red wines (and some whites) that are easy to drink. The classic Côtes du Rhône wine is a delicious fruity middleweight red blend based on Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre grapes.

Tournon and Tain L’Hermitage

This superb region provides some of the best vineyards, wine routes and magnificent landscapes in France. In the northern Côtes du Rhône, explore the captivating medieval towns of Tournon and Tain L’Hermitage for a great introduction to the region. Situated either side of the Rhône they form the gateway to the Route des Vins. This excellent driving route takes through the heart of the hillside vineyards, going from cellar to cellar to help you discover and taste the appellations of the region: the Hermitage, Crozes Hermitage and St. Joseph. Uncovering this wine route is nothing short of spectacular with its epic views, winery visits and quality plonk.

Beyond the vineyards, both these towns are great places to visit. You can relax and take a boat trip along the river from Tain L’Hermitage. Or wander the embankments for great riverside views. I hiked up to the watchtowers above Tournon for spectacular panoramas of the surrounding vineyards and Rhône River meandering below before admiring the Marc Seguin footbridge. Don’t miss a visit to the historic centre and Chapel Hermitage for some unique cultural heritage.

Seguret

A week is ample time to unearth the best parts of this rural journey. After three nights in the north, I headed to the southern part of the Côtes du Rhône, following the Rhône River to the incredible hilltop villages of Seguret and Sablet. Elevated above the vineyards, Seguret is classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Inside the old town you will find characterful cobbled streets, historical stone houses and a traditional stone archway and a charming bell tower.

Sablet

Nearby Sablet is the jewel in the crown. Breath-taking picture postcard views await, framed by vineyards and the magnificent Dentelles de Montmirail mountains beyond. This rocky outcrop is a geological masterpiece, eroded by time to form the chiselled mountains that span 8 kilometres. These mountains are a paradise for nature lovers. The scenic beauty is best explored on foot, by mountain bike or rock climbing. You will be rewarded with spectacular views over of a seemingly infinite sea of vineyards and forests.

For more places like this, visit nearby Vaison-la-Romaine with its Roman ruins and old town or the highly esteemed architectural delights and Roman monuments at Orange.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The last historic place I recommend visiting in the southern Rhône Valley is Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It’s nestled between the historic towns of Avignon and Orange. Famous for its powerful, full-bodied red wine the village of Chateauneuf-du-Pape offers great cellars or wine shops seemingly every few metres. It’s the perfect place for a wine tasting. It is simply the best place to source true and original tasting, top quality wines along the southern Rhône River. Visiting the winding lanes, medieval tower and Place de la Fontaine with its outdoor cafés and restaurants is equally sublime.

Gorges de l’Ardeche

Don’t miss the scenic Gorges of the Ardeche. It’s a visual feast of winding gorges and the snaking Ardeche river, a tributary of the Rhône. It zigzags for 29 kilometres and is peppered with scenic twists and turns as you drive along the canyon’s rim. You’ll definitely feel compelled to stop for the jaw-droppingly spectacular views of the limestone Gorges at every corner. If you’re feeling energetic, take to the waters and canoe beneath the impressive natural stone bridge Pont d’Arc for close-up views.

Wherever you decide to drive along this enchanting route, take your time, savour the views, sip the wine and simply enjoy the spectacular journey…

Jeremy Flint is an award-winning professional photographer and writer specialising in travel, landscape and location photography. His work is published extensively in National Geographic Traveller Lonely Planet and Country Life amongst others. He is a five-time finalist in Travel Photographer of the Year, Association of Photographers Discovery Award Winner and National Geographic Traveller Grand Prize Winner.

This article was first published in The Good Life France Magazine

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Winter in France has charm by the bucketload, from snow-capped mountains perfect for skiers to festive wintry markets, and big dose of sunshine.

Haute-Savoie – snowy sojourns

Landscapes that look like they are straight from fairy-tale Narnia. And the twinkling lights of enchanting mountain villages in a sea of snow. Horse and carriage rides snuggled under a blanket. Robust and rustic alpine delights like tartiflette and raclette, fondue and reblochon pie. We’re talking Haute-Savoie in winter.

With trains taking from just 3 hours 40 minutes from Paris to Annecy, a mountain break is hard to resist.

The city of Annecy, nicknamed the Venice of the Alps for its pretty canals, watery arteries that criss-cross the city, is gorgeous year round. With winding cobbled streets lined with ancient buildings, nestled on the edge of the translucent turquoise lake Annecy, this is a town to fall head over heels for. And in winter, with an average of 32 days of snowfall, then Annecy really takes on a magical glow. Fabulous restaurants, museums, a great farmers market three times a week, plus a wonderful Christmas market. Winter walks are plentiful around the lake, including the not to be missed Chateau de Menthon-Saint-Bernard.

Plus there are superb ski resorts close by. They’re easy to reach by bus year round with snow-covered roads cleared quickly. Annecy Mountains really is an out and out winter destination extraordinaire…

Mountain high

Close to the lovely city of Annecy there are several ski resorts of the Aravis Massif and lots of lovely alpine villages. You can ski the whole of the Aravis ski area on one ski pass – 220km of perfect pistes linked by pistes and ski buses. La Clusaz is a traditional ski town with great restaurants and bars, quirky shops and stunning scenery. Le Grand Bornand, another stunning alpine town is close by and the smaller Manigod is within easy distance by free shuttle bus. Meanwhile the lovely market town of Thones has a fabulous Saturday morning market and excellent gourmet food shops.

If you love skiing you’ll find everything you could possibly want here. A wide range of pistes that cater to skiers of all levels and snow sports galore. There are friendly towns and fabulous après ski. And even if you’re not a skier there are plenty of activities from snowshoeing to dog sledging and even go-karting on ice.

Annecy Mountains resorts

In La Clusaz: This lively ski resort buzzes with bonhomie throughout the winter with shows, concerts and events including Savoyard folk dancing, which all are welcome to join in with, on the main piazza. One of the most beautiful walks in the area is around the glacial lake at the Plateau des Confins. It’s 1450m high, alongside the Nordic skiing pistes. And who can resist floating in the village’s heated outdoor pool as the snow falls around you…

In Le Grand Bornand: This is proper ‘Heidi’ country. Alpine chalets galore, mountain views that make your soul soar, as well as museums and superb restaurants. Don’t miss the Restaurant les Rhodos, a cosy mountain bistro on the Aravis Pass.

In Manigod: Off the pistes, visit the Paccard cheese cellars and taste local favourites including Manigodine, Reblochon and Chevrotin. Don’t miss The Garage Concept Café, ‘Lo Garajo’, which has a deck overlooking the mountains. Indulge in a gastronomic experience at the Chalet-Hotel La Croix-Fry. Their Reblochon pie is mouth-wateringly good. And try out Paret’s sledge! The emblematic ride is a one-shoe’d wooden sledge with a vertical handle. You can borrow one for free from Manigod tourist office.

In Thones: When it’s a full moon enjoy a ski tour adventure in a fairy-tale like landscape. Every Thursday, at the end of the day, just as most ski areas close for the evening, Glières Plateau comes awake as skiers don headlamps for a magical guided tour.

Useful sites: annecymountains.com; manigod.com; www.thonescoeurdesvallees.com

Where to stay

Where you stay is part of the adventure when it comes to Haute-Sauvoie. Gorgeous chalets, roasty toasty wood fires, sitting in a hot tub as the snowflakes fall all around you and views that make your soul soar. OVO Network’s exclusive, hand-picked holiday homes in the Alps are nothing short of irresistible….

Chalet Riparian is just 200m from the centre of La Clusaz but feels like it’s in the middle of nowhere. Ski-ski out, cosy fireplace, gorgeous décor, walking distance to the ice rink, shops, bars and restaurants and child friendly. There’seven a sauna and a hot tub on the terrace from where you can watch the skiers whizz through the trees.

Chalet Manoe in Manigod with a hot tub and ‘bubble’ sauna, open fire and balcony with breath-taking views is a little bit of heaven. Fabulous décor, electric boot warmers and zero pollution for outstanding star gazing – this cosy retreat is superb.

Chalet Alti in Le Grand Bornand sleeps 14 and is utterly enchanting with its traditional feel whilst making the most of green technology with solar panels and geothermal heating.  The ski bus stop is just 200m away though experienced skiers can ski right down to the Rosay gondola in the centre of town. A gorgeous kitchen, magnificent views, and a large jacuzzi. Winter has never been more fun.

Find more brilliant accommodation in the Alps at ovonetwork.com

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Spring in the French Alps offers not just a late season ski-fest, but a whole load of sports. Hiking, walking, road biking, mountain biking, abseiling, white water rafting, mountain climbing and heaps more activities await the adventurous – guaranteed to blow the winter cobwebs far away.

And if you want to recharge your batteries, rejuvenate and relax, the French Alps are the perfect place in the spring to slow down. Enjoy the dazzling scenery, spas, walks to make the most ardent nature lover sigh at the beauty, fabulous gastronomy and a big dose of alpine culture.

After the winter season, everything slows down just a little as the alpine pastures bloom. With a backdrop of dazzling snow-capped peaks and azure blue sky, and the longer, sunnier days bring bucket loads of feelgood factor to your stay.

Ski in the French Alps in spring

There’s still snow in the spring in the Alps with March and April the best months for a late snowfall, especially on the high peaks. It’s a great time to go for beginners as it’s less busy, and for families it’s ideal. Less lift queues, uncrowded pistes, still great apres-ski.

Feel good French Alps

The mountains aren’t just for skiing and sports addicts though, and for those who seek a more relaxing break the French Alps are ideal. Long walks in the fresh air, lingering over a delicious al fresco lunch soaking up the sensational sights, spa treatments and feel good, wellness activities to suit all. Spas and altitude are a match made in heaven.

Book a yoga session in the mountains, or take a mat and follow a class online. Enjoy a picnic in the mountains surrounded by meadows full of colourful wild flowers. Take a cooking class, drawing class, go horse riding, watch the shooting stars in the velvet black sky as you soak in a hot tub or, try paddleboarding. The tourist offices have a slew of fabulous activities to recommend and help you organise and wind down.

OVO Network, the French Alps accommodation specialist, has some great tips for pampering yourself in the French Alps.

Family fun in the French Alps

Spring is an ideal time to visit with the family. Head to the local tourist offices to discover potteries, cheese makers, and farms like child friendly goat farm La Chevrerie d’Antan in Manigod where you can walk with the goats and then buy fresh milk and cheese to take back to your chalet. Cheese lovers will enjoy Manigod’s Caves d’Affinage Paccard where you can learn all about cheese making. Head to local markets to buy fabulous seasonal products – perfect for fondue, tartiflette and raclette, robust cheesy dishes that pair well with mountain air.

Festive in the French Alps

Spring is also a time to celebrate the end of winter in the Alps. There are festivals galore from DJ sets to live concerts on the slopes. A a few of our favourites include: ‘Rock the Pistes’ at Portes du Soleil (March). Live in Tignes by Francofolies (April). Families and freestylers love the LCZ Freestyle show in La Clusaz (February or March). The free event (with a ski pass) ‘Sublicimes’ in La Plagne (April) features a roller disco, spa, ski jumps and a diving board.

Meanwhile ‘Le Septi Contest’ in Samoëns (April) has a great festive vibe. And ‘Glisse au Coeur’ at Le Grand Bornand (March) features a race with a heart. It’s the premier charity event of the French mountains and features 24 hours of non-stop skiing and challenges.

Easter in the Alps

Easter is a great time to fit in a last blast on your skis or enjoy the other activities of the mountains, with longer days and plenty of sunshine! This year Easter Sunday falls on 9 April, and you’ll find a range of gorgeous chalets and apartments available with OVO Network, who have the best range of holiday homes in the French Alps. And of course the chocolate shops and boulangeries of the Alps will be full of temptingly delicious things.

Where to stay

Staying in a gorgeous chalet is part of the holiday in the French Alps. Take a look at properties such as the stunning Chalet Pativerdan in La Clusaz, Chalet Paralpin in Manigod, Chalet Bellanis in Morzine, Chalet Mevi in Crest-Voland, and many more on the OVO Network website.

Be the first to hear about special offers, new chalets and news from the Alps with the OVO Network newsletter – sign up here

If you have holiday rental accommodation in the French Alps, find out more about how OVO Network can help you achieve year-round bookings.

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France’s largest wetland is much more than just marshland – it’s a land of white horses and pink flamingoes, of Roman remains, rose coloured sea and picturesque villages. Gillian Thornton explores this diverse landscape on foot and by boat, four wheels and four legs.

Where white horses roam and pink flamingos flock…

Sunset over the Camargue and the still water of the lagoon turn slowly silver as the sky morphs through a palette of pastel blues and pinks, deep yellows and burning orange. Rose-tinted flamingos sift the shallows in search of supper, whilst a sturdy coypu watches intently from the bank for an unsuspecting fish.

It’s a magical moment for any lover of wildlife and open spaces, but particularly when seen from the back of a horse. Our leader turns his mount into a shallow lagoon and we trustingly follow in his wake, an enthralled band of riders mounted on the surefooted white horses of this legendary wetland.

Situated at the heart of the Bouches du Rhône department in western Provence, the Camargue forms a triangle between the ancient Roman city of Arles to the north, and the two liquid arms of the Rhône delta. Le Petit Rhône to the west is a protected nature reserve that joins the Mediterranean at Les-Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, whilst Le Grand Rhône carries commercial river traffic from Lyon and Avignon to the west.

Fly into Marseille – less than an hour’s drive from Arles – and the flat landscape of the delta doesn’t look overly inviting from the air, but seen from ground level, it’s a different story altogether. Covering more than 100,000 hectares with 75km of coastline, the Camargue embraces a wide variety of eco-systems that include salt plains and freshwater marshes, salt marshes and lagoons, sandy beaches, paddy fields and dunes. Bird-watchers can find an incredible 237 species here, one-third of all those seen in Europe, and the closer you look, the more surprises are in store.

The wild wetlands of France

Listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and famous for its white horses, black bulls, and pink flamingos, this glorious wetland is a must-do for anyone who likes big skies, wide horizons, and a wealth of soft-adventure activities. You can take a guided nature tour in a 4×4 or take a leisurely look from a horse-drawn carriage; book a birdwatching tour or enjoy the landscape from water level with a boat trip on the Petit Rhône. Visit the Arles Tourism website and Camargue Tourist Guides for inspiration and online booking.

For a lifelong rider like me, the chance to explore on horseback was top of my priority list, but you don’t need to be a gardian – or camarguais cowboy – to access this stunning landscape on horseback. Simply settle yourself in the comfortable saddle, take up the reins, and proceed at a leisurely pace. I shared the 2-hour Sunset Lovers experience from L’Auberge Cavaliere du Pont des Bannes in a mixed-ability group. Those of us with experience were able to enjoy a gallop behind the dunes, whilst the other mounts proceeded obediently at a stately walk, but most of the ride was conducted at a stately walk with eyes wide open. Speed doesn’t matter in a natural environment like this and the slower you go, the more you see.

Wild birds and wonderful wild life

Take those famous flamingos. Pass any stretch of shallow water in the Camargue and you’ll almost certainly spot small groups of these improbable birds with their downturned beaks and ‘back to front’ legs. But for the full-on flamingo experience, book onto a guided tour to see Europe’s largest breeding colony – some 10,000 pairs who hatch their young every year at the protected Etang du Fangassier. Tours run from April through September, bookable through Camargue Nature Guides along with a wide range of environmental excursions, all available in French and English.

Expert guides Frédéric Bouvet and Christophe Giraud gave me a fascinating insight into local agriculture and wildlife, as we made our way by Land Rover and then on foot across salt plains dotted with tree stumps bleached by sun and salt. Finally we arrived at a viewing platform erected at a ruined 17^th century customs post and, through powerful binoculars, were treated to a unique view of the quivering mass of pink feathers. An unforgettable Attenborough moment in anyone’s book! On the way back to base, there was another colourful bonus as Frédéric drove us past a sandbank to watch multi-hued bee-eaters flying in and out of nesting holes.

The bulls of the Camargue

The Camargue’s resident bulls may not be as eye-catching in colour but they’re certainly full of character. Smaller than their Spanish cousins, Camargue bulls have horns that point upwards rather than forwards and are used in the local course camarguaises or bull games, a popular family entertainment that is played out at arenas across the Camargue throughout the summer months.

After a rousing parade through the streets, bulls and all, the human contestants on horseback – the raseteurs – attempt to pluck a rosette or cockade from between the bull’s horns. Each contest lasts 15 minutes and at the end of the day, the bulls are taken back home for a quiet night at the ranch. A good cockardier – or competitive bull – is a much-prized beast and there’s a vibrant statue of one fine specimen outside the bull ring in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, a jolly, whitewashed seaside resort with an intriguing backstory.

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer

The town takes its name from the three Marys who were the first witnesses to Jesus’s empty tomb after the Resurrection. Legend has it that that Mary Magadalene, Mary Salome, and Mary Jacobe arrived here in a boat after being expelled from Jerusalem around AD40, together with their black servant Sarah who became patron saint of the gypsies. Every May, gypsies from all over Europe gather in town for a religious festival in Sara’s honour. See her statue – dressed in layers of gypsy clothes – in the vaulted crypt of the Romanesque church where the air is heavy from the heat of candles.

Then head from the depths of the church up the narrow spiral staircase to the roof, once used as a lookout post against maritime invaders. Take in the views to the marina then head past the boats towards the beach, backed with a line of whitewashed cabanes. Thatched with reeds, they were traditionally used by fishermen and farm workers.

Aigues-Mortes – and the pink sea

With waterways in every direction, it wouldn’t seem right not to take a duck’s eye view of this extraordinary wetland. Some 10km inland from Saintes-Maries, I enjoyed a nature discovery cruise by Zodiac with Kayak-Vert Camargue, who also offer excursions by kayak, paddle board, or mountain bike. But if all this sounds too energetic, there’s yet another way to enjoy this unique area at water level.

As well as exploring the Camargue independently, I have cruised the Petit Rhône on  board a leisurely hotel barge operated by CroisiEurope, Europe’s biggest river cruise operator. The 7-night trip travels from Sète on the Mediterranean coast to Arles – or the reverse – and includes visits to a traditional manade or camarguais ranch, as well as Les Saintes-Maries and the walled town of Aigues-Mortes.

With no strategic port on the western Mediterranean coast, French king Louis XIV commissioned Aigues-Mortes in the 13^th century, six kilometres inland and surrounded by malaria-infested swamps. But today, this enchanting town is a mix of historic buildings, shady squares, and rampart walks without the inconvenience of malaria. Visit the commercial salt pans beneath the city walls and buy a bag to enjoy at home with some camarguais rice – an authentic taste of one of Europe’s most inspiring wetlands.

Gillian Thornton is a writer who specialises in France and lifestyle.

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Amy McPherson finds beauty and adventure in unspoiled territory…

Before I went, I had no idea where Vercors was, but I did know it was famous for its outdoor activities. A two hour car journey from Lyon Airport brought me to a small range of pre-Alps mountains that straddles the departments of Isère and Drome in south-eastern France. As we turned off the dusty highway into the valley, I was greeted by a heavenly view. The hills were a crisp lime green and the sky a brilliant blue. Vercors makes a great first impression.

I came here seeking an adventure. Vercors, a utopia for outdoors enthusiast, was ready to indulge me.

Hiking in Hauts Plateaux Nature Reserve

One of the great things about hiking is that all you need is a good solid pair of shoes. It is so easy to simply walk into nature and feel miles away from civilisation. Being a mountainous region, Vercors has plenty of hiking options on offer.

In the Hauts Plateaux Nature Reserve,  the largest land-based metropolitan reserve in France, there are no roads or houses, apart from refuge huts providing shelter for hikers. The 17,000 hectares of wild land with its forests of oaks, beeches, firs, spruce, pines is home to much wildlife including marmots, black grouse, Alpine ibex, vultures and golden eagles.

Paths that crisscross the reserve are rocky with limestone which has been sculpted by water and weather, covered with pine needles and tree roots, lined with mountain flora. The moist undergrowth of the forest is full of ferns, fungi and fabulous fauna. I spotted Lady’s Slipper orchids, Edelweiss, Gentians, as well as the rare scabiosa columbaria ‘Vercors’ in various shades of purple. Other than the crunch of my footsteps, the only other sounds were the whistle of the wind and the rustle of leaves. So quiet, not even the birds stirred. The air was fresh, the surrounding nature energising, and the sound of silence meditating.

Gentle cycling along Via Vercors

No respectable ‘outdoor destination’ would be without the offer of some great cycling. Here in Vercors, while the lycra-wearers rule the spectacular balcony roads that are dramatically carved onto the rock face with breath-taking views of gorges beyond, cliffs above and alpine meadows below, there is an alternative leisure option to exploring on two wheels.

‘Don’t worry’ guide Olivier from Velectrip, which specialises in nature sports, assured a group of us keen to explore the area. ‘We don’t have to wear lycra!’

ViaVercors is a network of designated cycling routes that cuts through the valley floors connecting all the main towns in Vercors. The mostly flat routes took us from farmland to villages, along running streams and quiet back roads.

Vercors: Active by Nature

A bike tour is a great way to explore the many villages of Vercors and visit the local craftspeople and farmers. Other than forest and nature, Vercors is also well known for its agriculture. We stopped at the Ferme du Pic Saint Michel, where Marion and Yannick Rochas have 60 chamois alpine breed goats.

After much petting and cooing the goats who seemed more than happy at the attention, we sampled goats cheese of different stages of maturity direct from the farmer’s hands.

‘Many people say they don’t like goats cheese,’ Olivier said as he stuffed a cube of the one week old cheese into his mouth. ‘That’s because they’ve never really tried it directly from the farm. You cannot get this from the supermarkets.’

Of course, a day on the bike also means guilt-free sampling of great regional cuisine from many of the cafés and restaurants conveniently en route. They’re all listed in the ViaVercors map which you can get from the tourist office, or you can book a guided tour. The best part? I was pedalling an e-bike, which are readily available for hire at local bike shops. It meant the ride was relaxing and I could take it easy and enjoy the views.

Trying out the sport of biathlon

Biathlon is a sport that requires the agility of a cross country skier and the sharp aim of a sniper. It was never on my radar as a holiday activity. Yet, when you find yourself among champions as I did unexpectedly it seemed a shame not to give it a go.

‘Actually, many of the French Nordic sport champions comes from Vercors’ said Loïs Habert. He and his wife Marie Dorin, both ex-national biathletes, and cross-country skier Robin Duvillard manage ZeCamp Hotel in Corrençon-en-Vercors, which offers a selection of sports and wellness holiday activity options. It is the perfect place to try biathlon.

‘Shooting a rifle is all about the breathing,’ Loïs said just before he pulled the trigger and downed one of the targets. I tried to replicate, concentrating with all my energy and managing to hit three out of five targets.

For the ski part of the biathlon, it being summer we ‘ski’d’ on roller skis. It’s not that easy, and not like roller skating, and though I’d seen school groups make it look easy as they rolled up and down the streets of Villard-de-Lans, the town where I was based, I retreated to the hotel for a session of yoga.

On top of the world in Vercors

All around Vercors, the sight of silvery mountain peaks like limestone fingers reaching to the sky is never far away. If you want to get closer to them then a spot of rock climbing is a popular pastime here. I couldn’t resist and joined mountain guide Jehan-Roland Guillot. As he strapped ropes and hooks onto each of us in our intrepid group of climbers he assured us we would be on top of the world soon. I pulled on a  helmet and looked up.  The sun was streaking through the vertical silhouette of the so-called Three Maidens –  Les Trois Pucelles, a set of limestone formation above the valley of Grenoble 1456 meters above sea level. It looked daunting. It looked impossible.

‘Don’t worry, winked Jean-Roland ‘I’m good with beginners!’

Sheer joie de vivre

Two hours later, we had hiked past the 90-metre springboard used during the 1968 Winter Olympic Games at Grenoble, picked our way through patches of coniferous trees, abseiled down a rock wall like James Bond, climbed the jagged edges of the cliffs to the top, and finally reached the gap between the rocks. A rope, stretched tight between the peaks of the rocks, was our way across. Tentatively I hooked my clips onto the rope, inched towards the edge. It was a steep drop to the ground, I gulped.

‘Trust the rope, trust yourself, there is nothing to be afraid of. Just let go’ encouraged Jehan.

In my line of sight, the city of Grenoble spread before like walnut butter, covering the basin and towards the edges of the mountains. It was a beautifully clear day and the peak of Mont Blanc was just visible in the distance. Adrenaline kicked in. It felt like I was at the top of the world.

I breathed it all in and let go.

For nature, beauty, adventure and sheer joie de vivre – Vercors is hard to beat.

For more information:

www.inspiration-vercors.com; www.isere-tourisme.com

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The spa town of Evian-les-Bains on the shores of Lake Geneva, Haute-Savoie, has played host to a glittering list of guests spanning royalty, celebrities and notables over the course of two centuries. In fact, it was so popular that even Frankenstein holidayed here…

The history of Evian

The curative virtues of the water in Evian were first discovered in the late eighteenth century by a French aristocrat. The Marquis de Lessert, whilst out walking in the town in 1789, took a drink from a natural spring. He was much taken with it pronouncing it to be ‘easy to drink’.  It started a trend and an enterprising local started to sell bottles of it. People were wowed by the water’s qualities. If it was good enough to drink, it was certainly good enough to bathe in. The first “Hydropathetic Establishment” (thermal spa) opened in 1826. Hotels, restaurants, and a casino followed, keen to cash in on the visitors who flocked to the town.

What to see in Evian

From the hotel it’s a downhill stroll and twenty minute uphill cardio-vascularly challenging hike back to the town of Evian-les Bains. It’s a surprisingly culturally rich town with a medieval hospital and a thirteenth century church. The Belle Epoque stye is obvious with a lake front 1878-built casino and a theatre with a neo-classical façade which was built in 1885, the 1900-built Palais Lumiere, and the 1826-built Cachat Pump Room (which is being restored). The funicular railway was completed in 1907.  At the Cachat Source, Sainte Catherine’s Fountain, built in 1903, the locals fill up their bottles with free, magnesium-rich, sand-bank filtered water. A French count fleeing from the French Revolution, suffering from gallstones was said to be cured by drinking the water from this source daily. It flows year round at a constant temperature of 11.6°C.

Tranquil. Sans gaz.

Lac Leman

Lac Leman (Lake Geneva in English) is the largest lake in western Europe. It gets its name from either the Greek for ‘lake’s port’ or the Celtic word ‘limos’, referring to the local fertile mud. It’s just a 30-minute ferry crossing from Evian to Lausanne from where you can easily visit the Swiss Riviera and the steep-sided UNESCO-listed Lavaux vineyards on the shores of the lake. If you do, stop for a tasting of the local Chasselas wines. The Domaine Bovard in Cully is one of the best, their Buxus Sauvignon Blanc is superb. In the 12^th century, Cistercian monks created miles of walls and terraces using French stones across the lake to support the terraces. So, there are, arguably, two French sides of Lake Geneva. The monks also planted the original vine rootstock.

Lunch at Tout un Monde Restaurant in Lavaux and you’ll enjoy a view down most of the 104 mile perimeter, croissant-shaped, 25-mile long by 11-mile wide lake which is fed by forty-two rivers. From the terrace you see Evian, the  Bernese Alps, Mont Pelerin, the Savoie and Valais mountains, Montreux and Vevey. While digesting your char, féra, perch fillets and lake shrimps you can watch the yachts and swanky boats as you relish the fabulous view.

Frankenstein connection

Everyone sleeps well at the Hotel Royal. All except Mrs Frankenstein. She and her husband honeymooned there, before she was strangled. In Mary Shelley’s dark tale, Victor Frankenstein, the creator of the monster, agrees to create a mate for him. Destroying it before completion, the monster vows ‘I will be with you on your wedding night.’ On the day Victor married Elisabeth, the monster breaks into the bridal suite at the Hotel Royal and strangles the new bride.

The 467-acre 150 room hotel opened in 1909 in honour of King Edward VII who died before he could schmooze there and blag some luxury. The hotel was allowed to keep its royal status. The Jean-Albert Hebrard-designed “white steam ship anchored in the hills” sits above Lac Leman. One of the first spa palace hotels, the hotel has always been a magnet for the rich and famous. The spa’s relaxation lounge is the Aga Khan III’s old apartment. They still have the original chandelier in storage. The Royal was the holiday choice for sultans, maharajahs, shahs, and other royalty as well as celebrities and statesmen. Just 45 minutes from Les Portes du Soleil, Europe’s largest ski area, it hosted the 2003 G8 summit.

Frankenstein’s monster would never have made a spa therapist. But he could have been mistaken for a customer. Or health tourist. He had the gait of one. Frankenstein walked like he had a metabolic disorder or a urinary ailment. Or maybe he was just getting used to the very scanty, hardly-there and rather tight briefs the spa staff make you wear.

By Kevin Pllley and Janine Marsh

Website: Evian Tourist Office: tourism.evian-tourisme.com

More on Haute-Savoie

Annecy – Guide to what to see and do

Manigod – mountain gem

Summer in the Lake Annecy Mountains

Cycling round Lake Annecy – what to see and the best stops

The post What to see and do in Evian Haute-Savoie appeared first on The Good Life France.

Aiguèze is in the Gard department, Rhône-Alpes region, in an area known as Provence-Occitanie. It’s a small, medieval village, surrounded by vineyards, and officially one of the prettiest in France. Its history goes back many centuries, long before it was fortified in the 11th century. Aiguèze is set around a castle – the ruins of which dominate the skyline of the village above its riverside location, just below the Gorges de l’Ardèche. The centre is pedestrianised with narrow cobbled streets, making it a lovely town to wander.

What to see in Aiguèze

You can’t miss the picturesque square in the centre of the village, Place de l’Eglise, in front of the church of Aiguèze, shaded by place trees. Place Jeu des Paumes is also lovely, lined with cafés, great for a break if you visit the Thursday morning market. On summer evenings there are concerts in the square, accompanied by the sound of the tinkling fountain of Saint Roche. The cobbled streets are paved with Ardèche pebbles and lined with ancient buildings and places of interest. Discover an old wash house, ancient tower, 15th century hospital, and city gates to the walled town, and more.

The Church of Saint-Pierre, open daily, dates in part to the 11^th century. It was later expanded and its’ facades and portal are 16th century French Renaissance. The inside is decorated with brightly coloured frescoes and the bell tower was restored in the Gothic style.

Stroll the ancient vaulted passageway “Combe aux Oiseaux”.  It is unique for its facade, decorated with animal sculptures and home to the famous “sculptor’s house.” Made from beautiful light stone, it’s typical of the architecture of this area. Discover numerous ancient houses, which appear unchanged for what seems like hundreds of years.

Views and vineyards

From the ruins of the castle, high on a rocky ledge there are fabulous views. You can look out for miles across the valley and over the vineyards.

Below Aiguèze  on the Ardèche river there is a popular small river beach. Called Plage de Sauze, it’s great for swimming and kayaking.

Cross the Pont de Saint Martin d’Ardèche suspension bridge. It is an attraction in its own right and takes you from Aiguèze to the town of Saint-Martin d’Ardèche, the southern gateway to the Gorges de l’Ardèche.

Pop to the town’s tourist office in a former 17th century olive mill in Rue du Moulin to find out what’s on.

How to visit Aiguèze

There is no train station here, the nearest station is in Montélimar (27 miles), so it’s best reached by car.

What to see nearby

Avignon, capital of Provence, is around a one hour drive from Aiguèze: Top 10 things to do in Avignon

The famous Roman Aqueduct of Pont du Gard is around an hour away: Pont du Gard

The town of Orange with its astonishing Roman theatre and remains is a little over 30 minutes away: Visit to the Roman theatre of Orange

The lovely village of Vaison-la-Romaine is about a one hour drive

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